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Old 05/12/2004, 07:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
Sam
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Vehicle: Yes
Posts: 23,845
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My not so stock, bland car. (First post in members rides :fawk:)

Now that we have a member rides forum, I will post in here.

Well, the first pics are gone, but hell, this thread is four years old . Anyway, I got a new bumper, wheels, suspension and a lot of electronic crap now.

Current:



Here are some pictures of CINCity's work with my headlights, they were painted satin black, had the STi lens swap, and the side of the headlights were sanded out so you can see the light pierce through the projectors. All in all, great work on his part.



















This is the STi lens swap that CINcity did for me. The bulb temp is OEM 4300k, nothing higher is needed, the cutoff with the new lens is ridiculous, very clean and crisp. That color blue/purple you see is the flicker that you see on BMWs and Porsches, etc.









The below pictures of the gutted interior are from three years ago, anyway, I also have 200 square feet of Fat Mat inside the car.











Sound deadening like whoa.

Some type of adhesive backed aluminum faced sound deadener, eDead, Dynamat, B-quiet, Raamat, etc. I've got almost 200 square feet of the stuff.





The above is the base layer of sound deadening for reducing road noise.

Felt tape, you can buy rolls of it at Woodworker supply. I've got about 40' of the stuff (1/4" wide) lining interior panels, friction spots, this is what is going to end panel rattles and squeaks.

A liquid barrier, something like eDead V3, it is a paint on sound deadener that is best when applied over body parts/panels that have already been treated with something like Dynmat. I used one gallon on my car.





Jute, it is that cloth material that you will see attached from the factory, usually it is gray. I used 11 yards to do my interior. This stuff is the end all of eliminating noise, it goes on the floors, can be adhered to interior panels, basically everywhere you have covered with the other materials I have mentioned. It is the final layer of sound proofing your car before the panels go back on.







If you follow all of this correctly, convertible or not, your car will be quiet, with no rattles, no buzzing, and if you had heat coming into the cabin from your exhaust/headers that will be gone too.

OK, a couple of pictures of the stuff I added/changed on the inside.

I went with the Garmin GVN53 for a navigation system, a Farenheit T7000MHR LCD a Alpine DIN size center channel speaker for the navigation voice, a Kicker ZX350.4, running a Bazooka 6 1/2 in the trunk and my MB Quart QSF 216 in the doors and Alpine SPR components in the rear. And yes, the Bazooka is plenty of bass for me, my component speakers are practically woofers as is, so I don't have need for bulky drivers in the trunk, with the Bazooka, all I have to do to when I go to the track is unstrap it, and it's out.




And this was from a while ago, but I figured I would keep all of this in one thread.

I got a Bel Pro RX65 and a member on one of the Z forums makes a really cool radar detector mount that attaches under your rear view mirror. Here are pictures of the mount and the detector.



Outside, my dirty ass window.



Inside.



From the side.



I added on a rear view camera and a Farenheit AVIR3 input switcher to run to the monitor since I have multiple video signals going into the monitor.



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