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Old 03/26/2010, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3.0 Timing Belt Change YouTube Videos: Is this good to go by?

Ok so I have this in the "maintenance section" in the garage but as hopeful as I am that I will get a reply...Iam not. Think its just cause not very many people realize you can even post in there. It just looks like one big long "how to" section. So in effort to maybe get a few people to read this and reply I have posted it here. It isn't a "problem" and it is directly related to the GT/GTS model V6 cars, and because of the nature is performance related, so I figure it is ok to post in this section. If I offend someone/moderator/administrator for having it in the wrong section...my apologies and kindly remove it. Just was trying to get some exposure/replies.......

Ok so I will be performing a timing belt change on my 3.0 V6 motor in my 2003 GT. After reviewing over about 10 times the "how to" for this procedure along with the pictures located here: How To: Change the Timing Belt on the V6 *WITH PICTURES*, Iam still a bit nervous and went looking for some videos. I couldn't find anything on the 3.0 V6 in a 3G car but did find this video of a quad cam 91 3000GT. Being it would appear the same principals and overall general procedure can be used, is it safe to assume if I pretty much follow these videos and only apply it for 2 cams that I will be ok doing this job? (as I believe from looking at the how to we have 2 cams in the 3G car)(sorry a nooby when it comes to this particular motor)

Thanks and if anybody knows of a video specific for a 3G, 3.0 V6 let me know or pass along any tips. I feel a little better after watching the videos.

Videos:
YouTube - Mitsubishi Timing belt Part 1

YouTube - Mitsubishi Timing belt Part 2

Any ideas, suggestions, thoughts at all kindly appreciated. Oh and if you're in the Murfreesboro, TN area and want to make a little cash, hit me up as I'll pay someone with some knowledge to help me out.

Thanks
Jeff
xtremevette@hotmail.com
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Old 03/26/2010, 04:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you're nervous I wouldn't recommend it... It takes a lot of special tools to do a timing belt change while in the car. Most people on here won't brave it.
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Old 03/26/2010, 05:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you're nervous I wouldn't recommend it... It takes a lot of special tools to do a timing belt change while in the car. Most people on here won't brave it.
Really? The how to didn't mention not one special tool needed? Now Iam wondering how great a "how to" this really is....man I need this done, have all the parts but no help...this sucks!
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Old 03/26/2010, 07:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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this one is the best one i followed it

How To: Change the Timing Belt on the V6 *WITH PICTURES*

also there is a specialty tool to take the crank pulley off and a specialty tool to tighten the timing belt auto tensioner the part number for the auto tensioner tool is MD 998767 you will also need a inch pounds needle torque wrench. if you have any further questions pm me.

this is my specialty tool for the crank pulley (the one on the top not the bent wrench)

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Old 03/26/2010, 07:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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here ya go butter cup

How To: Change the Timing Belt on the V6 *WITH PICTURES*

also there is a specialty tool to take the crank pulley off and a specialty tool to tighten the timing belt auto tensioner the part number for the auto tensioner tool is MD 998767 you will also need a inch pounds needle torque wrench. if you have any further questions pm me.
Thanks...I saw that link already. Looked it over about 10 times...had that mentioned above. I just got done printing out the service manual for this and I must say Iam going by the service manual. There are many things in that "How to" that are incorrect or missing. Biggest one is like you mentioned. YOU NEED 4 SPECIALITY TOOLS to perform this job correctly, plus as you mentioned you will need both an inch pound torque wrench and a foot pounds one.

This plus the manual mentions things that the "How To" is missing. Such as all the torques needed. I am going to rent the tools from Advance Auto and I have a new tensioner adjuster ordered. I didn't want to take the chance as I only want to do this job once. I'll be sure to take pictures along the way.

My only concern is that the manual says:
"after removing the setting pin turn the crankshaft clockwise twice to align the timing marks"

what does it mean by twice? 2 full times completely around? Like a combination lock? Turn it past the timing mark 2 full times then stop when it lines up?

Then says: Wait for at least 5 mins then check that the auto tensioner pushrod extends within the standard value range.

This is all on page 11C-41 of the manual. (it is available in PDF form on here)
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Old 03/26/2010, 07:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i did mine and it was a real easy job but i wrench everyday, if you have never gone further than changing plugs and wires you should be nervous! do it wrong and you will be out more than $200. IF you are gonna do it get everything new,especially don't forget to get a new hydraulic tensioner. after you tension belt make sure to let it sit 15 minutes and recheck the belt tension! my belt was loose and i had to do it again.
good luck! takes about 2 hours if you take your time.
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Old 03/26/2010, 07:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah, you beat me to it, i had no special tools! just went by pharm/rc-maniacs advice.
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Old 03/26/2010, 07:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah, you beat me to it, i had no special tools! just went by pharm/rc-maniacs advice.
Yeh I'll be sure to update and take pictures to perhaps give a good how to utilizing the correct speciality tools.
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Old 03/26/2010, 07:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i did mine and it was a real easy job but i wrench everyday, if you have never gone further than changing plugs and wires you should be nervous! do it wrong and you will be out more than $200. IF you are gonna do it get everything new,especially don't forget to get a new hydraulic tensioner. after you tension belt make sure to let it sit 15 minutes and recheck the belt tension! my belt was loose and i had to do it again.
good luck! takes about 2 hours if you take your time.
Well I don't wrench for a living but I do all of my own work. I have never done a timing belt and this is my first foreign car. This is why Iam so nervous doing it. I read over the manual and it does seem pretty straightforward as far as what to do. Looks like pretty much just be sure to only turn the crankshaft clockwise and make sure all the timing marks are aligned to the camshaft marks and etc.

I do have a question. Why does the motor spec out as a SOHC when there are 2 cam sprockets? I would of thought this was a DOHC motor? Left bank and a right bank.
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Old 03/27/2010, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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dohc means you have (2) cams in EACH head in our v6 motors we have a SINGLE cam in EACH head and have someone help you when you are tensioning the timing belt tensioner its a two man job. and before you take the belt off align your timing marks that is the very first thing you NEED to do before you loosen anything on the timing belt. after you get the timing belt back on be sure to HAND crank the motor (take a breaker bar and put it on the crank pulley nut) to make sure you wont bend a valve on start up. remember TWO full rotations on the crank equals ONE rotation on the cams (this means do two full 360 degree rotations) if you feel any resistance you have to rotate the opposite way 2-3 teeth then realign the timing marks and start the process over.
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Old 03/29/2010, 10:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomsoutdoor View Post
i did mine and it was a real easy job but i wrench everyday, if you have never gone further than changing plugs and wires you should be nervous! do it wrong and you will be out more than $200. IF you are gonna do it get everything new,especially don't forget to get a new hydraulic tensioner. after you tension belt make sure to let it sit 15 minutes and recheck the belt tension! my belt was loose and i had to do it again.
good luck! takes about 2 hours if you take your time.


I didn't mention any special tools in the "How to" because i didn't use any. You can use the wrench trick or the breaker bar under the suspension for the crank pulley. You can do this job WITHOUT expensive speciality tools. I didn't use the little tool for the tensioner pulley either. I just used a small pry bar placed between the pulley and its tension bracket and applied the necessary pressure against the belt when i tightened the tention pulley bolt.

The reasoning behind turning the crank a couple times and checking the tensioner is to double check you alignement and to let the tensioner adjust itself and settle in. I performed my TB change just as it appears in the wright-up. I've now got 20K miles on that belt since then and everything is perfectly fine.
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Old 03/29/2010, 10:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't mention any special tools in the "How to" because i didn't use any. You can use the wrench trick or the breaker bar under the suspension for the crank pulley. You can do this job WITHOUT expensive speciality tools. I didn't use the little tool for the tensioner pulley either. I just used a small pry bar placed between the pulley and its tension bracket and applied the necessary pressure against the belt when i tightened the tention pulley bolt.

The reasoning behind turning the crank a couple times and checking the tensioner is to double check you alignement and to let the tensioner adjust itself and settle in. I performed my TB change just as it appears in the wright-up. I've now got 20K miles on that belt since then and everything is perfectly fine.
Man I do wish ya lived closer....Could make a quick and easy $100 just to sit, watch and make sure I do things right. I have some feelers out right now for mechanics willing to help me out. Iam not looking for someone to do the job for me, I want to learn, but at the same time I have a 600 mile trip coming up over the weekend and don't want to end up stranded. I have to balance money to as I will be needing that too. So Iam in quite a bind, I want to find someone to help me out this week to get the job done correctly but can't afford to pay someone $300 to do this job for me....nor would I want to. I want to learn how to do this and don't mind turning the wrench myself.
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Old 03/29/2010, 10:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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yea, tennesee is a bit far from me. Just follow the how too and take your time. Make sure your marks are aligned and the tension on the belt is correct and you should be fine.
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Old 03/29/2010, 11:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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hum all i used was the tensioner tool and the needle torque wrench i had.

and your how-to rc-maniac was very helpful thanks man. that stupid engine mount bracket was a bitch.
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Old 03/29/2010, 11:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I just did my timing belt last weekend. I looked at the how to and i didnt use any special toos either. I took a different route to take off the crank pulley. With the car on the ground in fifth gear with someone holding the brakes, i used a breaker bar and some extensions with a swivel socket to take the pulley off. I also used a small prybar on the tensioner pulley.
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Old 03/29/2010, 12:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Wow, after watching those videos, I'm glad those two guys are not working on my car. They did not set the tension on the belt correctly. they just placed the pulley back in the approximate postion as the last one. You could see them fighting with the belt and the tensioner when trying to do it that way. I think it is way easier to leave the pulley loose and pry it into postion after everyting is bolted back up.

The zip ties or wire ties, what ever you want to call them, are also more difficult to use. they take two hands to put on. I use paper clamps.


one other thing I noticed in the video, it is not always possible to slide the pin back into an old tensioner before disassembly. As the belt ages and wears, the tensioner will move outwards to take up the slack. Don't bother with it.
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Old 03/15/2012, 10:41 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I asked some questions from SilverTune last week about timing belt installation, I'm exactly same way, kind of confused on how to align the timing marks once the belt comes off and they spring out of position, bellow is his reply and wanted to share his knowledge with you guys. Thanks Silver



"Yeah one or both of the cams may or may not migrate off the timing mark once the belt is off simply because the lobes are still under pressure from the valve springs. As long as you have it at top dead center with all marks aligned before pulling the belt the cams won't turn enough to damage the valves.

Reinstallation takes some finesse buts its not bad in the end. Let the cams do what they need, don't worry about them until you get to them. Replace your hydraulic adjuster (keep the pin in at all times, until the very very end) and the pulleys that came with the kit. Make sure the center rotating bracket (that the hydraulic adjuster pushes on) is well lubed and turns freely. There is a pulley on that bracket, the one where the bolt is off center, so the pulley can rotate around its own axis. For vocab sake I call this the center tensioner pulley.

I always put the crank pulley bolt back into the end of the crank and tighten it down enough to keep the timing sprocket tight against the crank position sensor, and make sure that's at the timing mark aka top dead center. Unless you go nuts you won't be putting enough force on the belt to move the crank so you don't have to worry about holding that tight.

First, change out your pulleys and the hydraulic adjuster. HOWEVER, leave off the center tensioner pulley. Keep it close at hand though. With the crank aligned (and cams where they fall) lay the belt over its appropriate routing. Leaving off the center tensioner pulley gives you more play in the belt which will greatly aide you in this process. Grab a breaker bar with a socket that fits on the cam gear bolt (ratchet works too but a breaker bar is better because it is locked in both directions). Work counter clockwise starting at the crank sprocket. Simply using your fingers push the teeth of the belt up into the crank sprocket, with your other hand pull the timing belt tight up to the right/front bank cam gear. As long as you hold it tight, it shouldn't skip any teeth so you can take your hand off the crank sprocket. Grab the breaker bar and put it on the cam bolt, this is where you'll correct any movement the cams has. Turn the cam back to its timing mark, then turn it 1 or 2 teeth clockwise and lay the belt on it. Once the belt is well meshed, turn the cam gear back to its timing mark (hold it there with the breaker bar because it will spring back otherwise). What this does is put tension in the timing belt between the crank and right cam gear.

Now carry on, while holding the cam gear in position use your other hand and pull the slack out of the belt and around the water pulley and the left/rear cam gear and hold it there. While holing it there, take the breaker bar and put it on the left cam bolt and do what you did for the first; turn it back, lay the belt, and bring it back to its timing mark. If you do this right, all 3 timing marks will be lined up and all the slack in the belt will be left between the left/rear cam gear and the crank sprocket. Now you will have enough slack to put the center tensioner pulley back on the rotating bracket; thread the bolt it so that its tight but not so tight you can't rotate the pulley around its off center axis. Also make sure the turning bracket is against the hydraulic adjuster. Now take a large screw driver or small pry bar and pry that rotating pulley into the belt. Put some good muscle into it, the better you tension it now the less work the hydraulic will have to do and the more reliable your job will be. Once you've got it pried into the belt good, tighten down the bolt so that it can't rotate anymore, make it real good and tight (without breaking it of course).

In the end you have a perfectly tensioned timing belt and you have not even pulled the pin on the hydraulic adjuster yet. Since its tensioned, you can turn the engine a couple times with a ratchet and recheck your timing marks to make sure they're good. If they are, pull the pin on your tensioner and finish reassembly. The pin should pretty much fall right out."
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