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Old 09/18/2010, 03:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My 6G72 Rebuild Thread (Lots of pics)

I noticed I've seen a bunch of 6G74 or other motor swap threads on here, but havnt found many 6G72 rebuild threads. Seeing as my engine has been needing rebuilt for a while, and the fact that my timing belt went yesterday,, I took it as a sign that it was time to rebuild it and post a chroniclized thread. I am also going to have a few questions, so I was hoping to get a few tips along the way, seeing as this is my first complete engine teardown and rebuild on a car.

FYI: 2000 GT, 134,xxx miles, CAI, HKS cat-back, Megan Headers w/ HFC

Starting from the beginning:



Engine Bay before starting to rip it out, immediately after getting it towed home, lol.



The first thing I checked, and sure enough, the timing belt tensioner pulley must of gave in. Thus starts the rebuild.






























The tranny was CAKED with grease and dirt...like bad. Like realllll bad, and it was buggin me, so I cleaned it up a bit here and there with a wire brush and some polish.






The parts pile is getting a little large. It will all get either cleaned up, wire brushed, sandblasted, or painted. Whatever it takes to get my engine bay to look brand new.









The working station:




This is as far as Ive gotten so far. Took about 5 hours to get the tranny and engine out, then spent a few hours cleanin up the engine bay, brushing/polishing the tranny, and a few other parts. Im getting ready to start cleaning up the motor and taking it apart now, any tips for as I go about doing this?

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Old 09/18/2010, 07:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take your time!!! Make sure you know exactly how it all goes back together. If your T-belt went doesn't that mean you have bent valves?
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Old 09/18/2010, 08:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Take your time!!! Make sure you know exactly how it all goes back together. If your T-belt went doesn't that mean you have bent valves?
I am, trust me hah. But Im hoping I didnt bend the valves, considering I was driving and goin about 40 when it died on me and I drifted into a parking lot. I havnt gotten them out yet to see if they are, but theres a good chance they are. Im thinking about buyin a bigger camshaft and just replacin the valves/springs along with the rebuild kit.

Heres some updated pics:



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Old 09/18/2010, 09:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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As for tips, I would buy an engine stand. It's easier to take it apart then you can turn it over with a simple turn of a crank.
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Old 09/18/2010, 11:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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As for tips, I would buy an engine stand. It's easier to take it apart then you can turn it over with a simple turn of a crank.
I actually have one, I was planning on puttin it on it once I got some more off the engine and got more cleaned up. Thanks for the tip though, I almost forgot I had it.
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Old 09/18/2010, 09:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I can see you already made one mistake. Don't put the engine down on the oil pan, it will dent... Not that oil pans are much. Pull those heads. Lets see what the damage is. I love tearing down an engine.
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Old 09/18/2010, 09:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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don't worry. i have a brand new oil pan with nut. $35 shipped and it is yours. i have some 6g72 parts i am dying to get rid of. if you don't take them they are going to the dump since i need room not parts and no one messes with 6g72's any more. pm me for a list of parts.
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Old 09/18/2010, 10:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 09/19/2010, 07:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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free block amd crank right here. all you have to do is pay for shipping..... i will include the oil pan for 10 bucks.
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Old 09/21/2010, 10:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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This looks oddly familiar to what I finished yesterday! Good luck with it, I see you're better equipped than I am. lol
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Old 09/22/2010, 12:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ive been real busy the past few days, Got the whole motor apart. Just took the block today to the machine shop to get hot tanked and get the cylinders bored and crank journals checked. Pretty much going to be cleaning up everything while I wait for the block to get back.
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Old 09/22/2010, 07:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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No offense but I don't understand why you are spending the money to rebuild a 72 when it has been proven over and over that there are 2 other choices that are superior performance wise and would have been cheaper in the long run.

It's your car, do as you wish.
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Old 09/22/2010, 01:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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No offense but I don't understand why you are spending the money to rebuild a 72 when it has been proven over and over that there are 2 other choices that are superior performance wise and would have been cheaper in the long run.

It's your car, do as you wish.
Easier and faster to do as well.
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Old 09/23/2010, 12:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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No offense but I don't understand why you are spending the money to rebuild a 72 when it has been proven over and over that there are 2 other choices that are superior performance wise and would have been cheaper in the long run.

It's your car, do as you wish.
Id honestly love to, but I wanted to rebuild it and get a little more expierienced with motors first. Also, I am literally broke right now, and can get a rebuild kit for half the cost because Im a mechanic at a shop and my boss is letting me order parts at company prices.
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Old 09/23/2010, 06:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Id honestly love to, but I wanted to rebuild it and get a little more expierienced with motors first. Also, I am literally broke right now, and can get a rebuild kit for half the cost because Im a mechanic at a shop and my boss is letting me order parts at company prices.
you do realize you can pick up a 74 motor for anywhere from $200-$500...
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Old 09/23/2010, 08:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The swap could literally be done for $300 if you do all the labor yourself.
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Old 09/23/2010, 08:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Looking good! I didn't see those Megan headers you mentioned though.

And like Greg said.... 3.5 or 3.8 all the way. I am also curious why you would bother wasting your time with the 3.0L

I commend your effort but the $$$ doesn't add up in my opinion.
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Old 09/23/2010, 09:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Maybe he doesn't want to mess with tuning?
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Old 09/23/2010, 11:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Maybe he doesn't want to mess with tuning?
i'm pretty sure you can drive with out a tune on the 3.5, i wouldn't but i think others have
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Old 09/23/2010, 11:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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read the threads, it knocks like hell
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Old 09/23/2010, 12:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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read the threads, it knocks like hell
not if you run the 72 injectors
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Old 09/24/2010, 01:39 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The swap could literally be done for $300 if you do all the labor yourself.
I looked for a 6G74/5 but the only ones I found were $800ish. I needed to get the car done and running ASAP, and rather than waiting for a good deal on a motor, I was able to get a Topline full rebuild kit (includes everything except new cam shafts) for 500, when they were normally 800-900.

And the Megan Headers just got here yesterday, and are going in with the HFC during the reinstall. Heres some pics (you can see the box with them in one or two of them).






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Old 09/24/2010, 06:17 AM   #23 (permalink)
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not if you run the 72 injectors
Then the engine will run lean??? Not sure if the ECU will compensate that much for the increased air the 3.5 sucks with the smaller injectors. You're saying the car will RUN. It will, not well though. Only pussy footing it around.

Awesome rebuild though! I considered doing this. I want a 6g75 now. Waiting on winter. Hopefully some people will get a little too confident in the snow with their galants.

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Old 09/24/2010, 06:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Then the engine will run lean??? Not sure if the ECU will compensate that much for the increased air the 3.5 sucks with the smaller injectors. You're saying the car will RUN. It will, not well though. Only pussy footing it around.

Awesome rebuild though! I considered doing this. I want a 6g75 though. Waiting on winter. Hopefully some people will get a little confident in the snow with their galants.
search around, you can safely run the 74 swap with the 72 injectors
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Old 09/24/2010, 06:38 AM   #25 (permalink)
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search around, you can safely run the 74 swap with the 72 injectors
I have read. Everything says tune as soon as possible. I agree with you, it will run and you can drive it, but would you want a car you only CAN drive? I personally like when things are running the way they should. There's no point in swapping a different engine if it's not going to be used the way it should be. Of course this all matters if he didn't want to tune and that doesn't seem to be the case so I guess we don't really have to worry about this.
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Old 09/24/2010, 07:00 AM   #26 (permalink)
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How much is the machining running you? You are easily going to spend over a grand when all is said and done.
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Old 09/24/2010, 07:05 PM   #27 (permalink)
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If you jumped timing your guaranteed to need head work.
Too many 74s in your area for under $700 to be doing work to a 72.
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Old 09/26/2010, 06:34 AM   #28 (permalink)
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How much is the machining running you? You are easily going to spend over a grand when all is said and done.
Normally, yes, it would. But like I said, I have friends who work at Napa, as well as machine shops. The only reason I am rebuilding it instead of swapping to a 74 is because of the money, and until the Marine Corps gets my pay straightened out (freakin admin screwed me over by over 3 grand) I am broke. The total cost for this rebuild is going to be ~400 tops.
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Old 09/26/2010, 09:20 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The total cost for this rebuild is going to be ~400 tops.
Absolute BS.
A topline re-ring kit won't be had for less than $300 alone. That's gaskets, bearings and rings only.

Your figures are quite off.

Your are in PA. You are within driving distance of multiple pull it yourself places where the 74 will cost you $212 out the door.

You have erred. It's ok. Not everyone is me.
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Old 09/26/2010, 12:51 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The total cost for this rebuild is going to be ~400 tops.
For $100 less you can have a low mileage 74 dropped right in.
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Old 09/26/2010, 02:29 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Off subject but also on subject.

I ran the 6g73 2.5L injectors for a couple years on the 3.0L with zero complication, and the car didn't run lean at all.
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Old 09/26/2010, 05:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Off subject but also on subject.

I ran the 6g73 2.5L injectors for a couple years on the 3.0L with zero complication, and the car didn't run lean at all.
Ok, then I may be wrong. I believe ya.
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Old 09/26/2010, 08:06 PM   #33 (permalink)
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2g strat you arent ever necessarily guarenteed head work on an interference engine?

were in the hell did you get that from?
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Old 09/26/2010, 10:34 PM   #34 (permalink)
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If you jumped timing your guaranteed to need head work.
Too many 74s in your area for under $700 to be doing work to a 72.
I figured I would of at the very least bent the valves as well, but turns out the whole head is dead on spec. Suprised me honestly.

I wish I could of known where to find a 74 for 300 or even 400. I searched, but I needed to either find one within a day or start rebuilding it, and I couldnt find one. Also, the total cost for everything (block work, and topline rebuild kit) came to $519. The kit comes in tomorrow.
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Old 09/26/2010, 10:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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2g strat you arent ever necessarily guarenteed head work on an interference engine?

were in the hell did you get that from?
Um, what? You don't make sense. INTERFERENCE implies that the valves and pistons can hit each other if the timing is off. Jumping the timing implies that the timing is OFF. Logically, and not from hell, one would come to the conclusion that headwork is almost a garentee if you lose a timing belt on an interference engine.
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Old 09/26/2010, 11:16 PM   #36 (permalink)
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no silvertune their right. When timing my 74 something went wrong and it was off after the first rotation by 5 teeth and there was no problem. interference means at TDC a valve WILL hit if you rotate the cam 360. Non interference means you can spin em all day long they will never hit (i've done it). I'd agree that if you skipped timing something could very well be broken or bent, but not guaranteed.
The map on the 74 will be running lean on the 3.5L end of story. Regardless of the injectors, the maf scaling will be scaled to a lower flow rate. Look in pharm's post about how it knocked like hell thus why he is selling a base map. Most likely most of the map will need to have fuel added. at the same manifold vacuum level, there is more airflow. Since without re-scaling the map for the flow rates, the target A/F values are just targets and not necessarily correct, they will be leaner. When tuning the 3.8L on our ECU (forget who said) it just kept wanting more and more fuel. The only difference is .3 liters
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Old 09/26/2010, 11:19 PM   #37 (permalink)
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BTW I will be waiting to hear the catastrophic failure story beacause 500 bucks for a full rebuild on an import doesn't sound too promising to me. Balance and and blueprint could come close to that depending on what needs to be done to the crank and block
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Old 09/26/2010, 11:32 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
Um, what? You don't make sense. INTERFERENCE implies that the valves and pistons can hit each other if the timing is off. Jumping the timing implies that the timing is OFF. Logically, and not from hell, one would come to the conclusion that headwork is almost a garentee if you lose a timing belt on an interference engine.
Was I the only one to sense sarcasm in eclipgtse's post? If he wasn't being sarcastic then his post is fucking confusing.

Also, this "rebuild" doesn't make much sense to me, and that's saying something.
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Old 09/26/2010, 11:50 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I never said it was guaranteed, I said almost.

Ryan I thought you paid over 2k for your machinework?
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Old 09/26/2010, 11:54 PM   #40 (permalink)
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yessir i sadly did. Shop is a little overpriced though keep that in mind
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Old 09/27/2010, 06:31 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by espguitarist3 View Post
no silvertune their right. When timing my 74 something went wrong and it was off after the first rotation by 5 teeth and there was no problem. interference means at TDC a valve WILL hit if you rotate the cam 360. Non interference means you can spin em all day long they will never hit (i've done it). I'd agree that if you skipped timing something could very well be broken or bent, but not guaranteed.
The map on the 74 will be running lean on the 3.5L end of story. Regardless of the injectors, the maf scaling will be scaled to a lower flow rate. Look in pharm's post about how it knocked like hell thus why he is selling a base map. Most likely most of the map will need to have fuel added. at the same manifold vacuum level, there is more airflow. Since without re-scaling the map for the flow rates, the target A/F values are just targets and not necessarily correct, they will be leaner. When tuning the 3.8L on our ECU (forget who said) it just kept wanting more and more fuel. The only difference is .3 liters
I'm not saying you're wrong at all, I'm just asking a question because I just don't know for sure.

So from what you are saying, the ECU determines air flow from the MAP and the MAF sensors. Obviously there would be more air at a certain manifold vacuum, but wouldn't the MAF sensor detect this?
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Old 09/27/2010, 10:23 AM   #42 (permalink)
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yes but it takes throttle into account as well. Otherwise the 3.8L at WOT would end up at like 120 load. The scaling takes into account the displacement of the engine. Flow vs voltage vs pressure. I'm trying to find the article I read to quote for better explanation. Basically the calculations for a 3.0L lead to knock in the 3.5. It has to be tuned. log knock and just start adding fuel or retarding timing that way you have at least a safe setup.
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Old 09/27/2010, 12:22 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Airflow from the MAF only. MAP sensor = MDP sensor which is used exclusively for an EGR check.
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Old 09/27/2010, 08:18 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I figured I would of at the very least bent the valves as well, but turns out the whole head is dead on spec. Suprised me honestly.
I suspect you didnt jump timing. Your valves would be bent. I changed the t-belt/tentioner/pump on a 97 diamante a couple months ago with just as much slack as that. Purred like a kitten before and after the new belt.

You have another problem that caused you to check your belt...
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