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Old 01/16/2011, 09:26 AM   #61 (permalink)
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It'd be better with the mani but if that's all you got then that works. Its one of the things I forgot to shoot when I had it pulled out 2 weeks ago.
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Old 01/21/2011, 10:15 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Been awhile. Too long really, been extremely busy. However finally got the chance to get on with this project.

Mock up.


The Process


Tb fitted.

If you look in there you can see the edges of the bore (which I've only just started drilling) meeting almost flawlessly with the bore of the TB. Drilling and tapping is the easy part, it is getting a 68mm hole through 1.25" of solid aluminum that takes forever using just hand tools and a drill press. No class on Monday so I'll finish it up then and make my EGR block off plate and shorten the vac elbows.
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Old 01/21/2011, 11:36 PM   #63 (permalink)
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a hole saw will work wonders on that aluminum, it's totally worth the 25 bucks, just get the size as close as possible then drum sand it out to where you want it
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Old 01/22/2011, 05:33 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Looks good so far man... I'm interested in seeing how you pull this off!
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Old 01/22/2011, 09:19 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Are there any cheaper boring bar assemblies out there? That would be the correct way to do it. Probably the easiest too.
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Old 01/22/2011, 06:57 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I have an Ace Bi-metal hole saw. The things are bullet proof, 30 seconds to go through half inch aluminum and they stay sharp. Still on my original set. The problem is that since its such a big diameter the teeth spread the pressure out and they don't bite a whole lot unless you press way down in which case it kicks like a son of a bitch. My torn shoulder's giving me some grief but I'll finish it Monday regardless. Worked 11.5 hours today so I didn't have a chance.

The only other issues with the manifold will be the EGR blockoff and the vac ports. I'm going to block off only the valve port and pull the studs out of the pipe-port mount just so I have nothing snagging back there. There is one mounting point on the top that sticks up above the runners where the main ground on the manifold bolts in and I'm going to shave that down to save every bit of height I can. I need to shorten AND split the vac ports for my future boost stuff (bov, wastegate, boost gauges etc). Once those are done I've got a 3g manifold I can transfer the sensors from run my new silicone vac lines. The list seems so much longer when I write it out!
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Old 01/24/2011, 06:48 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Old 01/24/2011, 09:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Alright folks, made good my word. Not 100% finished, but very very close!

Finally got through the bitch with the hole saw.

There is a certain heat and speed that the thing starts cutting REAL fast. I was using the shoddy drill press at work so it kept letting go of the saw but it finally held and I hit that sweet spot and it went right through.

I said before these things were studs but I didn't expect it to still be razor sharp and it was.


Then I teamed up with some new friends. Craftsman belt sander, brand new as an xmas gift. Standard dremel crap though I actually only used the bag as a carrier. Its a bit useless now that I've got the Makita 906H die grinder. All steal case, retailed for 450$ and I picked it up for 40$ 3 days ago in perfect condition. All of a sudden my porting bit work 3000x better. The weird looking piece you see in front is a home made rheostat I made to control the die grinder. Made from a dual gang junction box w/ cover, and outlet and a standard dial dimmer switch. Works slick, I can use anywhere from 500-30k rpms.


A little light polishwork to get rid of the cutting lines.


Then the important part...

Port matched bitches. What was a 3/8" shelf in the middle of my airtrack became an almost seemless transition.

And here's the almost finished product. Gotta run it on the belt at the shop later so it seals good. Everything fits like a glove. Note the carved indent on the top edge to fit the vac lines on the top of the TB.


I did not forget the intake manifold. Had to drill out the holes on the tb flange to fit the studs which are required to use the adaptor because there isn't clearence for a bolt. I pulled the studs off the EGR, sanded the ground flush with the runners and pulled the vac elbows. Later this week I'll tap the holes for brass fittings and split the ports off for my gauges and boost stuff. Then its time for a wash, and even better: assembly!! I'm so pumped.
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Old 01/25/2011, 09:24 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Whoa looks really good man. That's great work.
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Old 01/27/2011, 07:39 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Random pic:


Egr block off plate, home made from some scrap aluminum I had laying around.


Fitted the GT sensor group to it. Just had to notch the bracket. Looks decent, beats making my own brackets. Will be running vac lines later...


And finally, the last bitch of this project..

I spent easily 4 hours making these. I pulled the stock elbows, trimmed the ports all the way down then tapped them both. The smaller is 1/8 NPT and the bigger is 1/4 NPT (For anyone who wants to tap cast aluminum, BEWARE, go slow and use cutting oil because this stuff flakes like bad tuna). Then I had to find the shortest brass fittings I could, luckily I sell them at work because I went through a few of them, tapping and dying them after trimming them down to sit low. The end result; success. Of course, now that all my work is done its time to put it all together.


Or it would be... now I need to get this stupid thing washed AGAIN. I rinced it out but a probe pulled some weird brown crap out of the runners so I'm going to take it in for a 1000psi bath. Once that's done I'll bolt it all up and run the lines and then post some pictures (If imageshack doesn't give me another spontaneous virus! ). Red silicone vac lines look GOOD on this thing.
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Old 01/28/2011, 05:48 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Old 01/28/2011, 06:03 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 01/28/2011, 06:19 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Old 01/29/2011, 07:49 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Old 01/29/2011, 09:48 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Old 01/29/2011, 06:43 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I have only 1 hangup now. No one has a throttle body gasket.
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Old 02/17/2011, 03:28 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I have only 1 hangup now. No one has a throttle body gasket.
How's that coming along? also do you have the 2 top manifold bolts from the 75? because I noticed that they are longer then the 72/74s
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Old 02/17/2011, 04:01 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Sorry I haven't updated. The manifold was finished 2 weeks ago, there are pics in my updated build thread in the FI section. I put it on the 74 lower manifold.
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Old 04/09/2011, 02:24 AM   #79 (permalink)
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uhm... I don't wanna make you mad, but look what project WhiteKnight and i are working on.

Around 6pm today.


Around 1am today


Long story short... I wanted the Manifold. and WhiteKnight had it. So we jumped on it today. looking to finish it up tomorrow.

Here is a comparative picture...


Who can tell the difference? :P
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Old 04/10/2011, 03:21 AM   #80 (permalink)
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So.... Update...

Long story short. as of 9pm on April 9th, 2011. The first Successful 75 intake manifold on a 72 is complete.

The only two things left to do is to adjust the throttle, we left it a little loose cause we didn't want to over stretch it. and put a vacuum line on for Cruise Control.

The install literally probably only took, 10 hours...? but it took from 7pm on friday to 9pm on saturday cause there's this pesky little thing called sleep, plus there was no how to, or parts list, so we had to custom fab a lot of it.

Okay, when i say we, from no on, i usually mean White Knight, that guy is a really good welder/metal worker.

Anyway... major issues we had.

The fucking intake... holy shit i have half a short ram now! (temporary because we were exhausted.

Relocating the battery... that's a must here. I have mine in my trunk now, and i need to get a compasitor, or a smaller battery for up in the engine bay. mostly because instead of starting on the first crank, or the second, it sometimes takes 3 to 4 cranks to get enough draw off the battery (we only had 4 gauge cable to use.)

Not knowing the parts list.... that was our biggest set back. i bet we went to about 4 or 5 different stores, (most of them two or three times) to get stuff like vacum lines and new bolts for the bigger manifold

After it was all said and done, i love it. It just sounds.... mean. straight mean. I know it's not a v8, and it doesn't sound like one and it never will. but it resembles one. or at the very least it sounds like a much bigger v6. It literally makes me want to do an exhaust system next just to make everything sound even. the stock exhaust doesn't do this justice!



I have the other intake choices we were trying out, but this is the finished product... kind of. :P
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Old 06/26/2011, 03:06 PM   #81 (permalink)
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So.... Update...

Long story short. as of 9pm on April 9th, 2011. The first Successful 75 intake manifold on a 72 is complete.

The only two things left to do is to adjust the throttle, we left it a little loose cause we didn't want to over stretch it. and put a vacuum line on for Cruise Control.

The install literally probably only took, 10 hours...? but it took from 7pm on friday to 9pm on saturday cause there's this pesky little thing called sleep, plus there was no how to, or parts list, so we had to custom fab a lot of it.

Okay, when i say we, from no on, i usually mean White Knight, that guy is a really good welder/metal worker.

Anyway... major issues we had.

The fucking intake... holy shit i have half a short ram now! (temporary because we were exhausted.

Relocating the battery... that's a must here. I have mine in my trunk now, and i need to get a compasitor, or a smaller battery for up in the engine bay. mostly because instead of starting on the first crank, or the second, it sometimes takes 3 to 4 cranks to get enough draw off the battery (we only had 4 gauge cable to use.)

Not knowing the parts list.... that was our biggest set back. i bet we went to about 4 or 5 different stores, (most of them two or three times) to get stuff like vacum lines and new bolts for the bigger manifold

After it was all said and done, i love it. It just sounds.... mean. straight mean. I know it's not a v8, and it doesn't sound like one and it never will. but it resembles one. or at the very least it sounds like a much bigger v6. It literally makes me want to do an exhaust system next just to make everything sound even. the stock exhaust doesn't do this justice!


I have the other intake choices we were trying out, but this is the finished product... kind of. :P
Congrats on the swap! you just gained some nice power lol get it tuned and see more..

I'm running my stock battery with another small one in the trunk, also I'm running a cheap ebay CAI
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Old 06/26/2011, 08:45 PM   #82 (permalink)
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For anyone reference, pics are in my members rides thread, the 6g75 manifold fits on the 6g74/75 without cutting a hole through the Eclipse hood. Just have to shave a little bit of the support off and it fits right and fine. I have the stock battery in there too even with the 1" spacer.
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Old 01/24/2012, 10:46 PM   #83 (permalink)
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I waslooking forward to doing this in the last week, but them I realized the battery issue


Anyways, I will transfer over some good information from the past year that we have been compiling and have posted on the Galant forums, I am sure sme of you will find this information quite informative and useful.

Upper Intake Manifold
This is a very common upgrade for many of you out there. The "standard" option for upgrading these parts has been the Diamante, Eclipse GTS, or XG350 manifold. The reason for this switch is due to the design of the OEM V6 Galant and Eclipse GT intake manifold having "squished" intake runners. This design can affect how efficient the air flows into the combustion chamber, as well as how much air is taken in. Also the different between the "squished manifold" and one of these upgrade manifold options is that they can increase better mid-range to upper mid-range performance.


3.5L 6g74 Diamante Upper Manifold
Below shows pictures of the stock Galant/Eclipse GT upper intake manifold side by side with the Diamante manifold. You will see the obvious difference is the intake runners between the two. Also the other clear difference is the size of the air inlet section of the manifold before it goes into the runners. The throttle body mounting plate is also a different size (bore is larger on Diamante than the stock unit).

The differences with swapping from the stock manifold are fairly limited and "minor." When you look at a stock manifold side by side with the Diamante manifold you will clearly see how the stock intake runners are "squished" and the size of the manifold where the throttle body bolts to is smaller. The stock MDP Sensor will fit onto the Diamante manifold, but you will have to fabricate a longer EGR tube to run from the rear exhaust manifold to the upper intake manifold. This is something that can be "blocked" if the build requires that route, but for the majority of people who need to pass emissions it is in your best interest to have a piece fabricated.


The manifold is also going to set your throttle body off more to the driver's side of the engine bay due to the straightened intake runners. For some, depending on the specific build you may need to relocate the battery from the stock location.


The Diamante Upper Intake manifold has an inlet size of about 69mm, with the potential to safely increase the bore 3-4mm. The stock manfiold has an inlet size of only 60mm.



XG350 Upper Intake Manifold
This is another manifold option for those who want to make the swap. The throttle body inlet size is the same as the Diamante unit (roughly 69mm). With the 3 piece type design of this manifold it is a better option for those seeking to build even more performance of the 6G72/6G74 platforms. If you are building a heavily modified N/A engine, or a boosted engine, the manifold can be seperated and a custom intake plenum assembly fabricated to fit the runners section. Doing this type of fabrication is generally needed for those running a larger throttle body such as one from the Infinity Q45 which is a stock 90mm unit (largest production TB made).

Below pictures the XG350 manifold side by side with the Diamante manifold. You will notice a sizeable difference between the two in the plenum areas. Also note that the MDP sensor locations are on opposite sides of the manifold as well. The EGR mounting location is about the same, but the EGR valve from the Diamante (or stock manifold too), cannot be used on the XG350 as you will see in the photo they are different. The XG350 actually uses a EGR valve that has the exhaust gas pipe running directly into the EGR valve (which makes it easy to fabricate a piece for those with emissions).



The Diamante manifold has a plenum diameter of roughly 91mm (3 9/16"), whereas the XG350 manifold has a diameter of roughly 125mm (4 7/8").


There is additional volume in the XG350 plenum as you can see in the photos of the Middle section of the manifold. Note, I have removed the valves within this section. The XG350 uses a sensor/motor control on the valves to regulate the amount of air that flows through the manifold assembly and into the combustion chamber. The primary section (Red colored area in cutaway photo) utilizes the longer runner path internally to help increase the low end-mid range torque. With the higher RPMs the sensor/motor will open the secondary valves (unpainted area in the cutaway photo) to allow an increased amount of air flow that aids with the mid range-high end.
[img width=800 height=531]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee207/HD-SPDFRK/Engine%20Builds/XGcutaway.jpg[/img]



This photo shows you the material that can be removed to combine the primary and secondary runner ports into one large runner section out of the plenum



Looking into the center section, with the rear part of the plenum attached you can see the plastic dividers inside that feed the primary runners when the valves are closed up. When the valves are opened the majority of the incoming air flow will enter through the larger ports of this section.



Here the rear part of the plenum is removed and shows you the plastic runner inserts mounted, and then with them removed where they are not needed;



Intake runner length also has an affect on performance as well. Below shows the runner length (within 1/4") difference between the Diamante manifold, and the XG350 manifold. The Diamanter manifold (first photo below) has a length of roughly 12" to from the lower manifold mounting surface to the edge of the plenum. The XG350 manifold has a length of approximately 10" from the same locations (in this case to where the middle section bolts to the runner section). Keep in mind the XG Manifold has a longer internal runner length which yields a total runner length of roughly 22".





6g75 3.8 Non-MIVEC Upper Intake Manifold
This manifold currently has shown excellent power increases over the other manifolds. The runner length of the 6g75 Non-MIVEC manifold is about the same as the Diamante (12"), though with a slightly larger plenum volume and design (not rounded like Diamante or XG350 Manifolds).



Photo below shows the inlet diameter of the 6g75 Non-MIVEC manifold (I have not yet measured this but will as soon as I find my digital calipers). The manifold has a Q45 TB adapater bolted to the TB flange which reduces the 89-90mm opening down to the 6g75 TB flange size;
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Old 01/24/2012, 11:46 PM   #84 (permalink)
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great info!
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Old 04/20/2012, 10:05 PM   #85 (permalink)
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very interesting info!

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