My 6g74 swap thread, now with 100% more 6G75 inside!

[dalastcwood]

THIS IS NOW A 6G75 SWAP THREAD!! Relevant 6g75 info starts a couple posts down this page. I left the original post in for the sake of viewing progression and search info for others

----------------------------------------------------Original Post---------------------------------------------

I am fairly certain that i'm posting this in the right section, as I've seen a similar thread in this section, but I sincerely apologize if it's not. For the sake of ease, I'll repost the bulk of a pm I just sent to Silvertune, so that others can chime in with any helpful advice:

So, I've done lots of searching/researching on the swap and the workings of engines in general and here's the grocery list I've come up with:

I've found a 1997 diamante engine at a salvage yard with around 86k miles on it for $295. I took some pictures of it (which I could show if it would be helpful) for reference, but from my relative newb perspective, it seems fine. Then again, I wouldn't know the giant red flags to look for. I saw in another thread that you said upper alternator and upper power steering brackets were necessary to get as well. I plan to buy an Engine Kit Gasket Set for a 97 diamante from rockauto (part #FGS1033), as well as a Timing Belt Component Kit, (Dayco part # WP287K1a). Various fluids, (transmission, engine oil, and coolant) are a given. I'm not sure if new motor mounts are needed. Is there anything here, besides the Tactrix cable I'll be getting for Codeman's tune, that I'm blatantly missing? It seems to be a pretty straight forward job that someone who's decently mechanically inclined can pull off.

I plan to use the throttle body from my 6g72 (my research leads me to believe that's the best option, since I wanna keep my cruise control). I'm not sure of the benefits of keeping the 74 TB, nor do I know the condition of the one I'll be buying. Would this parts list I've compiled be a sufficient list of replacement items needed to make the junkyard 6g74 adequately "rejuvenated"?
(btw, I drive an 03 gt auto)

Sorry if anything I've said here is stupid, but I think I've done sufficient research to avoid the "use the search button" flame

*Edit* Pics added

This is the engine


Shot inside (no oil)




Hole in valve cover due to bent metal piece




fuel rail and injectors








Sorry if it's too many pics. I didn't know what was most critical and didn't want to leave anything needed out.

[chavezeclipse]

take the oil cap off and look at the oil. if oyu can remove valve cover and look for sludge. also put a socket on the end of the crankshaft and turn until it stops. if it's easy and keeps spinning that engine is shot so you would have to do new piston rings (might as well do pistons). make sure the engine gasket kit comes with camshaft seals it's a common leak. also swap your 6g72 cams in while oyu are at it for some more power. if you have the time, remove upper and lower intake manifolds and clean out all the carbon buildup from the egr that helps. the 6g74 TB gives more mid range power and makes a noticeable difference but isn't a requirement. use the diamante intake manifold for more midrange power as well. also, change the oil right away and look for shavings (bearing material). next, i always use one quart of marvel mystery oil fro my first 3 oil changes to thoroughly clean out the engine and i personally use gunk engine flush before the first oil change. change plugs while you are at it and maybe wires (often get old brittle wires that break) and do a new distributor cap and rotor. also, if memory serves you need to use the diamante cv axle mount but i can't remember for sure. yes you can use stock mounts, i would recommend swapping solid poly inserts though and sleeving the bolt to make it fit snug. these engine create more low end torque and will destroy mounts. notice the stock engine mounts are very beefy so that should give oyu an idea. also, get a bigger radiator. csf dual row is cheap and bolts in or if you want go with the mistmoto. where the headers/manifolds bolt up oyu have to extend them (at least i did anyways) to make them clear. you need at least a stage 1 clutch disc, stage 2 is recommended. stock pressure plate can handle the engine if you want to be cheap, if not throw in a spec stage 2 and enjoy. also should get an lsd but it's not required

[dalastcwood]

Thanks for the info! Ok, so I took another look at the engine today. Took off the oil cap and....no oil. Apparently they drained it a few years ago when they took the engine off the car. I did manage to find some oil on the end of the dipstick though. A little debris in it, but I don't think it was metal shavings. No burned smell either. Turned the crankshaft over until it stopped like you said. They wouldn't let me take the valve cover, which had a hole in it from where the little metal peg on the right top corner of it had been bent back too far, off until I bought it. They tell me they'll replace the valve cover before they sell it though.

I have a question though, that I wasn't able to find a definitive answer for by searching. I noticed you suggesting clutch and transmission upgrades; is that just as beneficial for me and my auto? I thought that kind of thing mattered most for people driving manuals.

[Silvertune]

Holy sweet jesus mercy that is a dirty engine.

As requested... my PM reply:
You will need a full sized die grinder to do it, no dremel in creation can touch cast iron. It's not exactly a super precise cut that you need to make but you can definitely botch it beyond repair if you're careless.

The 74 TB is a very handy upgrade on the 72 even with .5 less liters, it is a saving grace of using the bigger motor. The 74 comes INCREDIBLY watered down, it is cammed to spin a very heavy automatic transmission in a mid sized family sedan. That said the 74 tb is one of the only things that keeps it breathing above 4k. If you're installing the 74 with factory manifolds/cats and a 72 throttle body you're going to notice plenty more torque in daily driving range but when you lay it out a 72 will ultimately pull on the 74 up high which is a joke because they use the same heads and the 72 really doesn't pull up top anyway. The 74 swap in and of itself is dated. I believe it's plenty worth it but not if you're going to choke it, you might as well find another 72 and call it a day.

Yeah it's standard procedure to drain all engines before shelving them. Since half the POS's they deal with leak it keeps shops much cleaner as well as being an mass storage protocol. Of course, draining the oil pan still leaves the internals covered and whatever is in the heads will stay there. That said an engine can last a long time in storage, but that one clearly wasn't stored really beyond just throwing it somewhere to sit.

I would personally pay maybe 150$ for that motor seeing the condition and hearing what they would warranty and even then I'd only buy it for a complete rebuild. If the junk yard recommends you do a bunch of maintenance then the motor has been sitting for a LONG time. It wouldn't surprise me if the crank didn't even turn, they didn't block off the throttle body or a number of other hoses by the look of it. Chances are the water jackets are as rusted out as the flex plate which means fun for the water system and the harmonic balancer will need replacing as the rubber is most likely dry rotted to the point of separation. It seriously looks like they pulled the motor out of a swamp not a car, there is a pile of shmuck UNDER the intake manifold and that means the car probably went into a swamp and thus the junk yard.

I know pricing varies across the country but I got my 3.5 for 300$ plus taxes thrown in the back of my minivan and it was clean with 79k on it. It came with a 3 month warrenty as well. I am hard pressed to believe this is your best option.

[chavezeclipse]

i am uncertain fro the auto's if any upgrade is needed or not. but silvertune hit the nail on the head that is a dirty freaking engine. oil looks ok but it looks like this engine was in a field that got mowed lol. it's really up to you, but i see better engine than that in my local junkyard and 6g74's aren't that hard to find.

[dalastcwood]

Hmmm, it's quickly beginning to look like this particular engine is a bad idea lol. I've done some more reading and it seems the non-mivec 6g75 is about as easy to put in (with mixed parts form the 72 and 74). Think it makes more sense for me to look into going that route, since it'll be more powerful anyway and likely a newer/better quality engine I find?

[chavezeclipse]

yup but they are more expensive and often harder to find. that's why most go with the 6g74 then latter on buy a 6g75 lol

[dalastcwood]

Finding a few options on car-part.com. Considering what all I'd need to replace, what's the highest you think I oughta go on mileage? Also, I believe I'm correct in searching for 3.8's from 04-present galants. Is the 74 upper ps and alternator bracket still used in this swap?

[dalastcwood]

Ok, I've basically decided to go ahead and pursue the 6g75 option. Upon looking at over 25 engines online, I came across three seemingly good options:

1. Comes out of an 04 galant and has 83k miles on it. It's apparently missing the valve cover though (pretty sure I can use my 72 cover though). I'm not sure if that presents an issue to the condition of the engine though. Anyway, this option is the cheapest of the 3 by about $300.

Options 2 and 3 both cost about $1075.

2. Comes out of an 04 galant and has only 26k miles on it . Apparently, they've only had it for 34 days now.

3. Comes out of an '09 galant and has 44k miles on it. The only reason I think this may possibly be a better option than #2 is the fact that the engine was made 5 years later, and thus less likely to have deteriorated from sitting somewhere. (by my logic anyway)


There are 2 others with 106k and 109k respectively, for about $800 each. One's been there for 153 days and the other for 353 days. For you guys who are more savvy on junkyard engines (that you're having shipped and thus can't inspect yourself), which of these seems like the most reliable option? Take into consideration that my grocery list of parts to use comes for the one Mitsubishiown compiled over in the main 3.8 swap thread (quoted below):

Parts List: To make it a direct swap from what I read and drunkofjuice helped me also : ) Any comments or things to add please if I am missing something!

1) 75 Heads
2) 72 Alternator
3) 72 PS Pump/belt
4) 74 lower timing cover w/harmonic balancer
5) 74 Upper Rear Cover
6) 72 Dizzy
7) 72 Crank Sensor
8) 72 Wheel
9) 74 upper/lower intake manifold and throttle body
10) 75 cams
11) 74 alt bracket
12) 74 upper p/s bracket
13) 74 coolant housing
14) 74 fuel rail $75
15) 74 throttle cable bracket
16) 72 flexplate
17) 72 lower bracket belt tensioner
18) 72 bottom mount/tensioner
19) 72 Cam Trigger wheel-
20) 72 bracket that the timing belt idler pulley bolts to
21) 72 motor mount bracket
22) 74 A/C Bracket
23) 75 belt

Assuming all these parts are used for the engine I get, which of these prospects seems the best? Thanks for the responses I've gotten thus far, btw. It's all been really helpful.

[Mattt]

You need a title change now

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by newdie

You need a title change now

True but I'm unsure how to do it

[Mattt]

PM Bitter or jaloosk

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by newdie

PM Bitter or jaloosk

Done. Thanks for the tip!

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by dalastcwood

Ok, I've basically decided to go ahead and pursue the 6g75 option. Upon looking at over 25 engines online, I came across three seemingly good options:

1. Comes out of an 04 galant and has 83k miles on it. It's apparently missing the valve cover though (pretty sure I can use my 72 cover though). I'm not sure if that presents an issue to the condition of the engine though. Anyway, this option is the cheapest of the 3 by about $300.

Options 2 and 3 both cost about $1075.

2. Comes out of an 04 galant and has only 26k miles on it . Apparently, they've only had it for 34 days now.

3. Comes out of an '09 galant and has 44k miles on it. The only reason I think this may possibly be a better option than #2 is the fact that the engine was made 5 years later, and thus less likely to have deteriorated from sitting somewhere. (by my logic anyway)


There are 2 others with 106k and 109k respectively, for about $800 each. One's been there for 153 days and the other for 353 days. For you guys who are more savvy on junkyard engines (that you're having shipped and thus can't inspect yourself), which of these seems like the most reliable option? Take into consideration that my grocery list of parts to use comes for the one Mitsubishiown compiled over in the main 3.8 swap thread (quoted below):

Parts List: To make it a direct swap from what I read and drunkofjuice helped me also : ) Any comments or things to add please if I am missing something!

1) 75 Heads
2) 72 Alternator
3) 72 PS Pump/belt
4) 74 lower timing cover w/harmonic balancer
5) 74 Upper Rear Cover
6) 72 Dizzy
7) 72 Crank Sensor
8) 72 Wheel
9) 74 upper/lower intake manifold and throttle body
10) 75 cams
11) 74 alt bracket
12) 74 upper p/s bracket
13) 74 coolant housing
14) 74 fuel rail $75
15) 74 throttle cable bracket
16) 72 flexplate
17) 72 lower bracket belt tensioner
18) 72 bottom mount/tensioner
19) 72 Cam Trigger wheel-
20) 72 bracket that the timing belt idler pulley bolts to
21) 72 motor mount bracket
22) 74 A/C Bracket
23) 75 belt

Assuming all these parts are used for the engine I get, which of these prospects seems the best? Thanks for the responses I've gotten thus far, btw. It's all been really helpful.

Any advice? I'd like to move on one of these quickly, but I need a solid, valid second opinion.

[drunkoffjuic]

Per your request. Here is my advice.

Option 1 (missing valve cover)
- how long has this engine been sitting without a valve cover?
- Has the head been covered up the whole time?
- Why is it missing the valve cover?
- Warranty?

$300 sounds WAY to low and leads me to beleive there is something else wrong with it.

Option 2 & 3

WAY to much for these engines. If you wait it out a bit, you can find good deals on these engines. Just for reference, I bought mine with ~50K miles at $650 (I think) shipped. That is half the price of these engines.

Personally, I would not spend over $700 shipped for an engine with no more than 55K miles.

I would say keep looking. It does not look/sound like you are the best at finding used engines.

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by drunkoffjuic

Per your request. Here is my advice.

Option 1 (missing valve cover)
- how long has this engine been sitting without a valve cover?
- Has the head been covered up the whole time?
- Why is it missing the valve cover?
- Warranty?

$300 sounds WAY to low and leads me to beleive there is something else wrong with it.

Option 2 & 3

WAY to much for these engines. If you wait it out a bit, you can find good deals on these engines. Just for reference, I bought mine with ~50K miles at $650 (I think) shipped. That is half the price of these engines.

Personally, I would not spend over $700 shipped for an engine with no more than 55K miles.

I would say keep looking. It does not look/sound like you are the best at finding used engines.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I was a bit unclear in the way I explained option #1. I didn't mean that it only costs $300, but rather that it costs $300 less than the other two options. The price of the engine is $565 before shipping. Talked to the guy again today and he says that they acquired the engine in '09 and that it's been sitting there wrapped in plastic (with the heads covered) ever since. He says he's not sure if the valve cover is missing from something related to the wreck or if he sold it or what. As far as a warranty, they give a 90 day parts replacement warranty for it, meaning that if there was a problem with the heads for example, they'd replace that part. What do you guys think of that?

Awesome deal you found on your engine btw! All the prices I've been seeing are through the roof

And yeah, I'm not very good at finding used engines as this is my first time trying lol. But hey, gotta learn somehow right? All help is greatly appreciated

[Mattt]

Sitting for 3 years would scare me away.


Keep us updated on every move you make though. I'm really interested in a 75 swap.

[drunkoffjuic]

I would pass on them, but thats just me.

If you are not already using it, check out this site. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

[Silvertune]

The only reason to ever get an engine that hasn't sold in a long time or has pulled shitty compression numbers is if you're going to rebuild it and that is it. If you are going for drop in then skimping will only nip you in the butt, there are a couple guys here who put in motors that had unknown mileage and looked really old and they pulled even crappier then normal numbers for a bolted up drop in. Shopping for an engine is like shopping for a car, if you know it's been beat to shit chances are you don't want it.

That said the 75 is really the only motor worth dropping in if you're going to stay NA and are looking for power.

[Silvertune]

As for your parts list you need:

6g75 long block
6g72 CPS and wheel
6g72 ignition setup
6g74 coolant housing
6g74 LM with fuel rails (easiest way)
Upper PS and alt brackets
6g72 AC bracket
6g74 throttle body with IAC pigtail
Your choice of upper manifold with necessary parts
6g72 SLP with clutch/flywheel or flex plate

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. The truth is unless you go to a pull it yourself yard you'll spend as much on the 74 parts as buying a whole 74. Gotta be smart about that.

[dalastcwood]

Alright....still searching Man, I don't know how you guys are finding these steals though. I've only been using car-part.com to search btw, and everything I've found has turned up too expensive or just plain crap. I found one that I thought may be promising and the guy tells me the compression is 150-160 Back to the drawing board I go; If anyone hears of/finds a good deal, then let me know! Till then, I'm still on the prowl

[Fenix22]

Best website I know for finding a 6g75 non-mivec is going to be car-parts.com..
and honestly, anything less than $800 seems like a gamble unless you have just found yourself one hell of a deal. I paid roughly $960 shipped with 62k miles on it. When I got it, it was rusted up like hell on the outisde, but the inside was spectacular. definitely got a well taken care of engine. Around here, $800 is the cost of a junk yard motor, and with these being as scarce are they are around this area, you gotta pay to get what you want :\

I wanted to mention that you can actually keep cruise control with the 74 throttle body, but you have to beat in the firewall so that it'll clear.

[Silvertune]

If you make use of the 75 UM you can maintain cruise just fine and have the best NA manifold there is for our cars.

[Fenix22]

True, but you have to figure out how to route the throttle cable for it. I think custom brackets were made for the people that have used the 75 uim with the 74 throttle body

[Silvertune]

The bracket is easily implemented, I ran it on my 3.6 last fall. You just need an L bracket attached with your EGR valve and you can bolt the throttle cable bracket then the cable to that. I used a little loctite and it never migrated on me despite shaking a few very tight bolts loose over the course of the fall.

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by Fenix22

Best website I know for finding a 6g75 non-mivec is going to be car-parts.com..
and honestly, anything less than $800 seems like a gamble unless you have just found yourself one hell of a deal. I paid roughly $960 shipped with 62k miles on it. When I got it, it was rusted up like hell on the outisde, but the inside was spectacular. definitely got a well taken care of engine. Around here, $800 is the cost of a junk yard motor, and with these being as scarce are they are around this area, you gotta pay to get what you want :\

I wanted to mention that you can actually keep cruise control with the 74 throttle body, but you have to beat in the firewall so that it'll clear.

Yeah, that's been my experience as far as pricing too. At this point, I'm leaning toward going with the engine with 26k on it if nothing better pops up; I'd like to get this underway asap. Would you say the '04 engine, which has 26k miles, trumps the '09 engine, which has 44k miles but was made 5 years more recently? Both are the same price.

Originally Posted by Silvertune

If you make use of the 75 UM you can maintain cruise just fine and have the best NA manifold there is for our cars.

Originally Posted by Fenix22

True, but you have to figure out how to route the throttle cable for it. I think custom brackets were made for the people that have used the 75 uim with the 74 throttle body

Besides the routing of the throttle cable (which sounds like it's just an issue of having the right bracket), aren't there hood clearance issues with the 75 manifold? I remember reading in one of the 75 threads that it sat too high in the engine bay, thus the 74 manifold being used. Sebrings didn't have this issue from what I remember, but I'm in a 3g so is that something I should be worried about? Literally two clicks away from buying a 74 manifold btw, so I need to know if I should be looking for a 75 instead.

[KJF5nutral]

There is a 8hp difference between the 75 and 74 upper manifold, 75 being the best...i found my 75 with all accessories so i dont need the brakets from a 74, i only took the 74's coolant housing, lower mani,and fuel rail

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by KJF5nutral

There is a 8hp difference between the 75 and 74 upper manifold, 75 being the best...i found my 75 with all accessories so i dont need the brakets from a 74, i only took the 74's coolant housing, lower mani,and fuel rail

So your hood cleared the plenum just fine using the 75 upper mani?

[dalastcwood]

Originally Posted by dalastcwood

So your hood cleared the plenum just fine using the 75 upper mani?

Originally Posted by Silvertune

For anyone reference, pics are in my members rides thread, the 6g75 manifold fits on the 6g74/75 without cutting a hole through the Eclipse hood. Just have to shave a little bit of the support off and it fits right and fine. I have the stock battery in there too even with the 1" spacer.

So, this was Silvertune's take on the 6g75 upper manifold clearance issue, taken from the 75 galant upper mani swap thread... Is this what you did KJF5nutral?

Also, still searching for a viable engine.

[Silvertune]

On the big block you will have to clear away a small portion of the hood bracing above the farthest forward passenger corner of the manifold but you don't actually have to cut all the way through the hood.

[r/tvo3.8t]

build it already im so excited for you good luck take your time man do your homework and remember opinions are like hemroids every buthole's got one its your car make it so....

[r/tvo3.8t]

I'm only sorry for the R/T guys like myself we have the burdon of being the outcasts of the 3g world all your wonderfull mitsu parts wraped in shear sexyness .....i mean sheatmetal...

[Centurin]

Definitely saving this thread. Just the parts list alone is worth hours of searching.