My Full Build

[Juan Martinez]

Originally Posted by kng nothg

Very nice.... good to see a few people are also doing this.

My rear end has been done about 1 1.5 -2 yrs ago...still trying to get time/money to finish my conversion. Time as in, i live in VA now and my car is in FL.
Working so damn much, time flies..

Btw lots of good info/pics/etc

How are you going to address the front crossmember issue?!? Your right everything is pretty much bolt on as far as the rear end (minus a few holes )

Interested in your input on this. (hoping to have the front crossmember done dec/jan time)

-Rob

I know the guy (blue eclipse), modified and cut his in the front to make it awd. I've been doing some research into the 97-02 VR-4 Galant subframe. I have a thread started on it and I"m trying to see how hard it is to swap from an I4 subframe with a V6 subframe. From what I've seen, the V6 subframe can be swapped out for the VR-4 subframe. This would make it a complete bolt on swap, except for the driveshaft mounts.

[kng nothg]

Originally Posted by Juan Martinez

I know the guy (blue eclipse), modified and cut his in the front to make it awd. I've been doing some research into the 97-02 VR-4 Galant subframe. I have a thread started on it and I"m trying to see how hard it is to swap from an I4 subframe with a V6 subframe. From what I've seen, the V6 subframe can be swapped out for the VR-4 subframe. This would make it a complete bolt on swap, except for the driveshaft mounts.

Nice, keep us posted. That would be hella better as far as price and time is concerned. Your right about the driveshaft, either it has to be custom made shaft and/or brackets made.

Im hoping and planning on taking atleast 1 additional K Frame to modify, that way we atleast have a working template to make others from.

[Juan Martinez]

Originally Posted by kng nothg

Nice, keep us posted. That would be hella better as far as price and time is concerned. Your right about the driveshaft, either it has to be custom made shaft and/or brackets made.

Im hoping and planning on taking atleast 1 additional K Frame to modify, that way we atleast have a working template to make others from.

You can use the driveshaft brackets from the 2g gsx eclipse. Just have to weld them in place. As for the driveshaft, it may not take much to get it to work. It may need a new spline and the part may need to be extended or shortened. As for the k frame, here is the thread I started to get some info, Question 3g I4 to V6 Swap The only info that is really needed is can you bolt a V6 subframe in place of a I4 subframe, or does it require welding. I have some pics of the VR-4 galant subframe posted. The galants, as we all know, use the same subframes as 3g eclipses, and some 2g eclipses/avengers. They have swapped out their v6 subframes for vr-4. If it all works out, you should get a subframe from a left hand drive vr-4. It will take some modding to get the steering to work otherwise. You can find left hand drive subframes in Argentina and possibly brazil. South America got those world spec galants and evos.

[j hutch]

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Basically Evo everything in the front. I'm going to install everything stock just to make sure I can get it to work for a few months then I'm going to pull everything back out and build the motor/trans/xfer case. I got a local deal on a Precision SC61 turbo that I'll be putting on the stock motor but I'll eventually get a HTAGT35R.

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by kng nothg

Very nice.... good to see a few people are also doing this.

My rear end has been done about 1 1.5 -2 yrs ago...still trying to get time/money to finish my conversion. Time as in, i live in VA now and my car is in FL.
Working so damn much, time flies..

Btw lots of good info/pics/etc

How are you going to address the front crossmember issue?!? Your right everything is pretty much bolt on as far as the rear end (minus a few holes )

Interested in your input on this. (hoping to have the front crossmember done dec/jan time)

-Rob

I measured the front crossmember off the Evo dropout I got and the mounting locations are NOT the same. I figured they wouldn't be but I had already planned on fabricating the 3g subframe. The only reason the crossmember needs to be modified is because of the transfer case right? Just cut a U shape in the subframe then all you have to do is space the power steering rack and front sway bar down and extend the steering column shaft coming out of the power steering rack to get it back to it's original position.

What are you having trouble with? Is there something else I am unaware of?

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by Juan Martinez

You can use the driveshaft brackets from the 2g gsx eclipse. Just have to weld them in place. As for the driveshaft, it may not take much to get it to work. It may need a new spline and the part may need to be extended or shortened. As for the k frame, here is the thread I started to get some info, Question 3g I4 to V6 Swap The only info that is really needed is can you bolt a V6 subframe in place of a I4 subframe, or does it require welding. I have some pics of the VR-4 galant subframe posted. The galants, as we all know, use the same subframes as 3g eclipses, and some 2g eclipses/avengers. They have swapped out their v6 subframes for vr-4. If it all works out, you should get a subframe from a left hand drive vr-4. It will take some modding to get the steering to work otherwise. You can find left hand drive subframes in Argentina and possibly brazil. South America got those world spec galants and evos.

You can't use the 2g driveshaft hangers. You have to use the Evo hangers. The Evo driveshaft hanger studs are staggered while the 2g studs are even.

Evo Driveshaft:




2g Driveshaft:

[quick92rs]

If the galant vr-4 subframe works that would be beautiful. One less thing to worry about.

[Juan Martinez]

Originally Posted by quick92rs

If the galant vr-4 subframe works that would be beautiful. One less thing to worry about.

It would be. Its also good to know about the evo drive shaft hangers and that we have to use it. What all modifcations need to be made to get the driveshaft to fit?

[bostonhatcher]

Got the coil cover on and replaced all the valve cover bolts with stainless steel.



I also measured the stroke tonight and it's 100mm so I guess I'll be running the 2.3.

Still awaiting a few small parts and then I'll start to tear the car down.

[klrdroptop3g]

Still awaiting a few small parts and then I'll start to tear the car down

Your build is really coming along. How long has it taken to get this far? I was wondering what your thougths were on the ecu. Are you going to swap the evo comp. in and tune that or leave ur 3g ecm and add a stand alone system and do a full custom tune to the specs you need. Also what were ur biggest problems or snags that you ran into so far and what would you recommend someone else doing to make it easier or avoid those problem in general?

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by klrdroptop3g

Still awaiting a few small parts and then I'll start to tear the car down

Your build is really coming along. How long has it taken to get this far? I was wondering what your thougths were on the ecu. Are you going to swap the evo comp. in and tune that or leave ur 3g ecm and add a stand alone system and do a full custom tune to the specs you need. Also what were ur biggest problems or snags that you ran into so far and what would you recommend someone else doing to make it easier or avoid those problem in general?

I could have done this whole swap in 2 weeks if all the parts were sitting in the shop. Shipping is what delays me.

I will swap the Evo computer in and then try to run the Eclipse wiring harness. If there are even a couple of snags that don't work then I'll just use the Evo wiring harness.

I have worked on more than 20 DSM's and Evo's and done 800+ hp builds on some of them. I would HIGHLY recommend no one take on this project unless you can do ANYTHING to a car. Welding, rewiring a harness, turning wrenches, rebuilding trannies, rear ends, and motors. You have to be able to do everything to do a swap such as this. If not, then the project just won't be able to be completed or you'll be breaking shit or it just won't run and you'll have to learn how to do whatever you fucked up which could take a long time and you'll be spending lots of money fixing your fuckups.

[kng nothg]

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

I measured the front crossmember off the Evo dropout I got and the mounting locations are NOT the same. I figured they wouldn't be but I had already planned on fabricating the 3g subframe. The only reason the crossmember needs to be modified is because of the transfer case right? Just cut a U shape in the subframe then all you have to do is space the power steering rack and front sway bar down and extend the steering column shaft coming out of the power steering rack to get it back to it's original position.

What are you having trouble with? Is there something else I am unaware of?

Not at all. my main (and only issue) is that i moved from florida to virginia. Unfortunately i did not to move my stuff and car. I plan on going down there in Dec/Jan for vacation, then it will be done. (cross member-wise) Also gonna make a spare.

Your on the right path! Exactly what im going to do. This might also help... Im planning on getting some really long bolts to replace the ones on the K-Frame. With the motor and transmission mounted (of course steering rack, linkage, swap bar disconnected) i will raise up the K Frame and notch out (better to measure twice and cut once) -But im sure you already had this all figured out.

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

I could have done this whole swap in 2 weeks if all the parts were sitting in the shop. Shipping is what delays me.

I will swap the Evo computer in and then try to run the Eclipse wiring harness. If there are even a couple of snags that don't work then I'll just use the Evo wiring harness.

I have worked on more than 20 DSM's and Evo's and done 800+ hp builds on some of them. I would HIGHLY recommend no one take on this project unless you can do ANYTHING to a car. Welding, rewiring a harness, turning wrenches, rebuilding trannies, rear ends, and motors. You have to be able to do everything to do a swap such as this. If not, then the project just won't be able to be completed or you'll be breaking shit or it just won't run and you'll have to learn how to do whatever you fucked up which could take a long time and you'll be spending lots of money fixing your fuckups.

Amen.

Also, nice video you have on youtube....the 25psi run... (thats my car, )

[klrdroptop3g]

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

I have worked on more than 20 DSM's and Evo's and done 800+ hp builds on some of them. I would HIGHLY recommend no one take on this project unless you can do ANYTHING to a car. Welding, rewiring a harness, turning wrenches, rebuilding trannies, rear ends, and motors. You have to be able to do everything to do a swap such as this. If not, then the project just won't be able to be completed or you'll be breaking shit or it just won't run and you'll have to learn how to do whatever you fucked up which could take a long time and you'll be spending lots of money fixing your fuckups.

Thanks for the advise. i have done engine swaps, tranny rebuilds, just about everything except i dont have any real experience with welding but i also work at a dealership where i have a full service and collision center so the welding part my buddy and help me with. i also can use a lift and leave the car on it for a little bit of time. as of right now my eclipse is my daily driver and i still have payments so i wont do anything too crazy until i at least get a beater car to drive around in. i learned years ago ur only car shouldnt be the major project car.

[bostonhatcher]

Here she is waiting for a sex change

[Special_K]

Hey do you need anymore radiator fans on the back wall

Car is looking good, Im glad you have been keeping up with the pics for this swap.

[GSKNIGHT]

Thanks for doing such complete documentation on this.

Can't wait to see it all together.

[bostonhatcher]

Modified the firewall to fit the Evo throttle cable.




Installed the Evo Ecu and decided to take a look at the cabin filter.



EV1 injector clips installed



Modified subframe

[bluebomber]

You have a good start but you got a ways to go on the subframe. Good Luck with the project.

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by bluebomber

You have a good start but you got a ways to go on the subframe. Good Luck with the project.

Not really. I already have the subframe notched for the steering pinion that comes out of the steering rack once it's lowered. I bolted up the steering rack and it clears just fine but the fitting that goes on top of the rack needs to be relocated to the bottom like you did or otherwise I'll have to space the whole rack out another 1/2" to clear the transfer case. I was planning on cutting the oval shaped brackets that house the rack and spacing them roughly 1.75" inches down, then rewelding them with the proper support behind it. What did you use for spacing? Have you had any problems with your setup yet?

[Special_K]

YOu arent going to box in that cut out in your subframe? The cabin filter looks nasty, looks like some mouse decided to take a poo in there for ya.

[bluebomber]

That's what I was about to say, you need to reinforce what you notched out, that subframe has to handle a lot of stress and the way it sits it will simply fold and mess everything up. The biggest problem I have is not enough clearance in the tunnel with the transfer case. If you take off fast and let off the top of the t-case will knock.

[21Strat]

This is pure sex. Are you gonna end up doing a how to for the evo head swap and/or the AWD swap?

Just curious....

[bostonhatcher]

I am going to do enough bracing on my modified subframe that it should be stronger than stock.

[bostonhatcher]

I have a couple of questions that maybe some of you could answer:

Where are you guys installing your injector resistor packs? I know to follow the red wires from the injectors but I'm trying to get as far away from the engine as possible. Heat kills electrical components which is why the turbo dsm's and evo's have such problems.

Has anyone deleted a/c on the 4-cylinder? I need a part number for an a/c delete belt.

[quick92rs]

Look through the F/I threads. I'm sure some of the people that did turbo builds deleted the A/C for clearance issues. By the way has anyone figured out any more info on the galant vr4 subframe bolting in so we won't have to cut ours?

[4G64TT]

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

I have a couple of questions that maybe some of you could answer:

Where are you guys installing your injector resistor packs? I know to follow the red wires from the injectors but I'm trying to get as far away from the engine as possible. Heat kills electrical components which is why the turbo dsm's and evo's have such problems.

Has anyone deleted a/c on the 4-cylinder? I need a part number for an a/c delete belt.

I had been looking for that and asked a few people but no one ever responded.

and good luck on the project...
and to whoever posted above about an evo swap how-to, the head swap has been documented a while back by flash.
but the awd thing i think this guy is goin to do

[DAve3GEclipse]

i posted up the belt before, you need a 43.5inch belt with 5 groves
, i think the part number was 435k5 for a duralast belt,

i've installed my old resistor pack here, if that helps

[EvoAte4Me]

Its the same belt that is used for a toyota Solora(sp)

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by DAve3GEclipse

i posted up the belt before, you need a 43.5inch belt with 5 groves
, i think the part number was 435k5 for a duralast belt,

i've installed my old resistor pack here, if that helps

Ok cool. I know the resistor can be mounted anywhere on the injector wires but I did some research tonight on my wiring harness and found that the power supply comes from the engine fuse box, splits into two, goes down the driver's side frame rail, and then meets the injector wires where each power supply wire has two injector wires coming off. Then turns around and goes back up the driver's side frame rail and goes to the injectors. I'll probably tap into the harness where the supply meets the injector wire and then mount the resistor underneath the brake booster.

Awesome news about the belt. Saves time and gets the project moving along faster. Thanks for the help!

[Flamegs23]

You are incredible.

[bostonhatcher]

I got my subframe back from the local fabrication shop. He did a pretty good job. I also had him relocated the intercooler top mounting bracket. This car is going together soooo slowly. It better be worth it.

[PharmEcis]

Why are you keeping the 5mph reinforcement if you cut it in half? Just unbolt the 2 pieces you have left as they aren't doing anything anymore.

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Why are you keeping the 5mph reinforcement if you cut it in half? Just unbolt the 2 pieces you have left as they aren't doing anything anymore.

It doesn't unbolt from the radiator support. It's welded on. I just figured it wouldn't hurt to leave some of it there.

[00TampaBlueGT]

+1 for the work and keeping us posted man. This project is following through awsome.

[PharmEcis]

What was the support welded in place? heh

[ortiz_02]

check the link out... another member modified the ic an crush bar for better clearance of the ic n reinforced it Winter 2007-2008 progress ... 56k warning

[bostonhatcher]

The intercooler is my new crush bar. I could add reinforcement but I'm too lazy.

Update: Car is now rolling. Had to get it on the ground so that the shop could repair the roof before the snow got here. All I have left is complete fuel system, driveshaft, install bushings on front lca's, a bunch of rewiring, intercooler piping, exhaust,and a bunch of small stuff such as fluids.

Right now the subframe sits flush against the bottom of the car but has slight pressure against the transfer case. The rear motor mount still has the bolt through it. It didn't do this when I had the motor on the cherry picker, with the subframe and crossmember attached to the front and rear motor mounts. The motor mount is flexing upwards right now and when I get time later on in the spring I'll revise it by replacing the subframe studs with longer ones and using thick spacers. I can't take away any more subframe to clear the transfer case or else there won't be anything left.

[PharmEcis]

Be careful in your shimming because you will be affecting your suspension geometry in the front.

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Be careful in your shimming because you will be affecting your suspension geometry in the front.

It's not going to have to go far. I'm just spacing it down far enough to take pressure of the transfer case and the rear motor mount (bolt is already through).

The only geometry that will change is the lca will have it's range of motion pointed up higher and the sway bar will probably have to be relocated a second time a few inches forward.

[mko]

I know you're dealing with the engine, but just want to tell you that the rear upper control arms of the GSX are the same as 3g Eclipse, but weaker because they are made of stamped steel. I'd swap your stock ones back, they are a lot stroger /tubular/.

Nice build by the way, i need a GSX rear end myself

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by mko

I know you're dealing with the engine, but just want to tell you that the rear upper control arms of the GSX are the same as 3g Eclipse, but weaker because they are made of stamped steel. I'd swap your stock ones back, they are a lot stroger /tubular/.

Nice build by the way, i need a GSX rear end myself

Didn't notice a difference myself.

Where's your proof?

[mko]

2g /left/ and 3g rear upper control arms. 2g are made of stamped steel, 3g are made of tubing/stronger/


3g arms installed on my 2g

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by mko

2g /left/ and 3g rear upper control arms. 2g are made of stamped steel, 3g are made of tubing/stronger/

I just went back and looked at my factory control arms on page 1. They are different. I'll have to make the switch back sometime. Are the bushings the same?

Too bad I already sold my stock rear upper control arms.

[mko]

yeap, bushings are the same.

[Osirisfool]

this is a really great thread, good job and cant wait to see the final finishing touches, if only the subframe wasnt such a pain in the ass I'm sure more of us would be willing to tackle this.

[Rocky2]

Is your GS a fed spec? interested in selling the stock exhaust? Full?

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by Rocky2

Is your GS a fed spec? interested in selling the stock exhaust? Full?

Yes it is...pmed ya

[4G64TT]

aaaaannnd a bump...
any new news?

[kng nothg]

Good Job bostonhatcher

Keep us updated!!!

[bostonhatcher]

No updates.

I haven't worked on it since Nov. 22nd of last year. I was gone on Thanksgiving break, then had finals, then Christmas break. Plus the shop it's at is having the roof repaired and no cars can be in there. I dunno when I'll get to work on it again. The good news is that it is currently rolling so not too much is left

[Cudude11]

I might have missed it but did you ever choose on a tranny to use? evo 5-6speed or vr4 galant??

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by Cudude11

I might have missed it but did you ever choose on a tranny to use? evo 5-6speed or vr4 galant??

Good question. Evo VIII 5-speed.

[Cudude11]

I think this thread deserves a bump and a UPDATE! lol Whats happening with it bro?

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by Cudude11

I think this thread deserves a bump and a UPDATE! lol Whats happening with it bro?

I pmed ya back but to everyone else I've been trying to find a damn place to work on it. I got kicked out of the last shop because they are repairing the roof and STILL are. This sucks ass and I'm about two clicks away from going into mental depression. I should have just waited and done it at my house in my hometown instead of at college where I don't have a garage.

This week me and a buddy are renting a 40' x 20' storage garage LOL. We're gonna bring all our tools there and finish the job. Pics are coming shortly...

[WEASELFURY]

YAY!!

[nik]

sweet build, look forward to seeing the final pics

[bostonhatcher]

Finally got her home tonight. Gonna do wiring tomorrow.











Me showing some love for the intercooler









Gauge city

[slava]

Nice man car looks good!! Now snap some closeups of your front subframe and driveshaft!!
Wiring is really easy just have to extend starter wires, TPS and couple of others, depends how u route them.

[bostonhatcher]

Originally Posted by slava

Nice man car looks good!! Now snap some closeups of your front subframe and driveshaft!!
Wiring is really easy just have to extend starter wires, TPS and couple of others, depends how u route them.

Injector driver box, injector pigtails, tps, pass. coil pack harness, starter wires, fuel pump harness, ifs removal, and gauges. Damn!

Those subframe pics I already posted didn't help?

[slava]

It helps allot!! but could u snap different angles of subframe, than subftrame installed and clearance of TC. Also interested how u will mount your drive shaft.
GL finishing it up!!