My Full Build - Page 3

Voodoo · 02/15/2009, 10:26 PM

Looking good man

VTEC KILLER · 02/18/2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slava

It helps allot!! but could u snap different angles of subframe, than subftrame installed and clearance of TC. Also interested how u will mount your drive shaft.
GL finishing it up!!

+1

So far its awesome man

slava · 02/27/2009, 11:05 AM

Any updates bud??

Cudude11 · 02/27/2009, 12:28 PM

Yes, we need updates on such a build!

bostonhatcher · 03/01/2009, 01:40 AM

All the wiring is almost done and it looks sexy. O2 sensor is all that's left but I won't be able to get to it till Monday. I have to wait on the Full Blown 2G Dual Pump setup which won't be here until Wednesday anyway. All my time has been going into my buddies Talon, which got a ported head w/ Crower 272's, JMFabrications IM, FP3065 w/ DNP mani, 950cc's, and a full -6 fuel system. We got it running today so I'll finish my car up shortly.

YouTube - 92 talon tsi, FP3065, Crower 272s, initial startup.

YouTube - 92 Talon TSi FP3065 Crower 272's Idle Vid

bostonhatcher · 03/01/2009, 03:30 PM

LICP pipe is fabbed up and beadrolled and ready for tig welding:

bostonhatcher · 03/02/2009, 05:21 PM

slava · 03/02/2009, 05:31 PM

Looks good man!! Just make sure bumper fits... I had to reweld shit out of my UIP when i tried to put bumper on LOL (was a big fuckup on my part)
GL man looking forward to see driveshaft and subframe pics!!!

EclipseEvo8 · 03/03/2009, 04:10 AM

[b]This build looks great and as everyone else has said if the subframe wasn't such a pain in the butt then more people would be doing it. But good thing it is because that means the people with the AWD 3G's know what the hell they are doing and deserve the special car.

I can't wait for the complete How-To if you decide to write one up because I'm really thinking about doing this to my car (the AWD) but it's more work than I am capable of. I need it for the friggen snow so that my rear end doesn't cut loose or wobble back and forth while I am driving from the incredible crosswinds we see in my state. (Only Wobbles in the Snow, would suck if it did it all the time.)

Awesome job so far, can't wait to see some video's of this bad boy. (You did say Sex Change)

raz_76 · 03/05/2009, 10:39 AM

Nice build dude.

Clean3g · 03/07/2009, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slava

Looks good man!! Just make sure bumper fits... I had to reweld shit out of my UIP when i tried to put bumper on LOL (was a big fuckup on my part)
GL man looking forward to see driveshaft and subframe pics!!!

Hopefully im wrong, but im almost certain you will have clearance issues with your intercooler piping.

Again, hopefully im wrong. Awesome work by the way!

MitsEclipseGS · 03/07/2009, 12:51 PM

Great build man keep up the great work and good luck!

bostonhatcher · 03/08/2009, 10:43 PM

bluebomber · 03/08/2009, 11:41 PM

Do you have her up and running yet?

bostonhatcher · 03/09/2009, 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebomber

Do you have her up and running yet?

Very close. I just started working on it like 2 weeks ago and that was the first time since 11/22/08.

Motor will be started early this week once the Full Blown Dual Fuel Pump setup gets here. Everything else that's needed to start the motor is good to go.

I still need to space the subframe down an inch or so and I've decided to go with the Evo steering rack. The steering rack is getting too low and the pinion on the evo steering rack is quite a bit longer and has a much better steering response.

I'm thinking about converting the subframe studs to just bolts by welding nuts into the unibody. This way I am able to remove the subframe without taking the whole motor and tranny out. I'll either do this or take another look at the part of the subframe that hangs over the transfer case.

Then once that's figured out it's driveshaft and front sway bar install, then it's time for some HARD awd launches

And how's yours holding up?

bluebomber · 03/10/2009, 08:48 AM

Sadly between my two jobs I have not really had the chance to fully enjoy the fruits of my labor, hoping to only need one job come summer and be able to drive her more, but nothing has broken yet.

One thing I will need to add is a stiffy dampener, when you do a hard launch and let of quickly the t-case sometimes smacks the tunnel, also still have to get an alignment done.

bostonhatcher · 03/13/2009, 03:01 AM

Dual Walbro 255 setup is together and ready to drop in.

quick92rs · 03/13/2009, 03:24 AM

Get that shit in there and get it finished so you can track it. I've been watching this thread since you started it. Ya need to get it finished, I can't take it anymore lol.

bostonhatcher · 03/13/2009, 03:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebomber

Sadly between my two jobs I have not really had the chance to fully enjoy the fruits of my labor, hoping to only need one job come summer and be able to drive her more, but nothing has broken yet.

One thing I will need to add is a stiffy dampener, when you do a hard launch and let of quickly the t-case sometimes smacks the tunnel, also still have to get an alignment done.

A stiffy dampener will help but won't fix the problem. If you haven't done it already, then polyurethane motor mounts (full inserts) should take care of it. If not, you need to make for a little more clearance on the tunnel. I can see where the transfer case is hitting (red circle in pic below) by the way the paint is chipped on the tunnel. What I did was cut along the green lines and create a box shape and rivet in some steel with body sealer to create 2-3 inches of overhead clearance. I'll try and get pics up when everything is back out.

Another place it might possibly hit is the subframe, where it hangs over the transfer case by the motor mount. This will probably have to be ANOTHER revision to this evil subframe. When it's all said and done, if I can bench press and hang off my transfer case without it hitting anything then that should be plenty of clearance

Then on to HARD testing in an open parking lot...

bostonhatcher · 03/13/2009, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quick92rs

Get that shit in there and get it finished so you can track it. I've been watching this thread since you started it. Ya need to get it finished, I can't take it anymore lol.

Yea no kiddin. It's gonna be fun smashing Zeeshan's GT35R all-time fastest 3g 4-cyl record with a little 16g

quick92rs · 03/13/2009, 03:38 AM

Thanks a ton for taking all the pictures and everything through the whole process. It'll make it a ton easier when I go to do mine. BTW was there ever a decision on the Galant VR4 subframe on whether or not it will work so we don't have to cut ours? Rep for you sir

bluebomber · 03/13/2009, 04:43 PM

It doesn't hit where you circled, its the end where the drive shaft goes in where it hits the top of the tunnel during a hard accel. Everything else clears.

PharmEcis · 03/13/2009, 08:23 PM

You need to ditch the full blown setup. You have ZERO need for it. A single walbro is good for over 450AWHP on a Mustang Dyno. You are going to cause tuning issues with two pumps running in tandem and I hope you have an aftermarket FPR so it can handle the pressure.

Honestly, the full blown setup is WAY overkill. The only time we have to use them is when cars are fully built with a huge turbo.

bluebomber · 03/13/2009, 10:09 PM

I second that.

bostonhatcher · 03/14/2009, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

You need to ditch the full blown setup. You have ZERO need for it. A single walbro is good for over 450AWHP on a Mustang Dyno. You are going to cause tuning issues with two pumps running in tandem and I hope you have an aftermarket FPR so it can handle the pressure.

Honestly, the full blown setup is WAY overkill. The only time we have to use them is when cars are fully built with a huge turbo.

Looks like I found the line where my knowledge breaches yours.

450 awhp is nothing. As soon as I know my awd conversion is good to go and I've ran the piss out of the car and nothing breaks on the 16g then I'm going straight to a htagt3586r or just a gt4294r. Did I not mention this?

I should be ATLEAST 750awhp by DSM Shootout in August. Yes two pumps are needed (or like an A1000). Yes I have a Fuel Lab FPR since -6an lines don't work with the factory regulator lol. And no, having the second fuel pump kick on with a hobbs switch will not alter fuel pressure therefore not affecting the tune.

I really don't think you understand how serious I am...

quick92rs · 03/14/2009, 10:49 AM

You're taking it to the shootout? Cool deal, looks like I'll see you there and I'll get to see it in person.

bostonhatcher · 03/16/2009, 11:50 PM

Got it started Saturday. Had a pretty serious coolant leak at the water pump and a power steering leak at the pressure hose where it bolts to the pump (threads are stripped). The idle was around 2000 rpms which is either from a vacuum leak or from having no coolant. Got a compression test in after running and it was 180 psi across the board

YouTube - 3g Eclipse First Start

Voodoo · 03/17/2009, 12:48 AM

Congrats on the start up. What was with the idle surge or whatever that noise was at the end of the video?

bostonhatcher · 03/17/2009, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voodoo

Congrats on the start up. What was with the idle surge or whatever that noise was at the end of the video?

The iac valve trying to bring down the idle.

Special_K · 03/17/2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quick92rs

You're taking it to the shootout? Cool deal, looks like I'll see you there and I'll get to see it in person.

I might actually have to go out to Summit Race Park this August.

PharmEcis · 03/18/2009, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Looks like I found the line where my knowledge breaches yours.

450 awhp is nothing. As soon as I know my awd conversion is good to go and I've ran the piss out of the car and nothing breaks on the 16g then I'm going straight to a htagt3586r or just a gt4294r. Did I not mention this?

I should be ATLEAST 750awhp by DSM Shootout in August. Yes two pumps are needed (or like an A1000). Yes I have a Fuel Lab FPR since -6an lines don't work with the factory regulator lol. And no, having the second fuel pump kick on with a hobbs switch will not alter fuel pressure therefore not affecting the tune.

I really don't think you understand how serious I am...

So you are going to make 750whp on an engine that you purchased from a junkyard with no knowledge of it's history that just happened to be a stroker and is built? I hope you have another engine to get your 750whp. I wish you the best, I really do but I don't know about those numbers on the block you got.

bostonhatcher · 03/18/2009, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

So you are going to make 750whp on an engine that you purchased from a junkyard with no knowledge of it's history that just happened to be a stroker and is built? I hope you have another engine to get your 750whp. I wish you the best, I really do but I don't know about those numbers on the block you got.

I don't know either. I'll never know unless I push it. After this one it's billet aluminum rod motor time.

VTEC KILLER · 03/20/2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

I don't know either. I'll never know unless I push it. After this one it's billet aluminum rod motor time.

bad ass...

there was someone selling a new ams aluminum rod shortblock on EVOM a few days back you might wanna take a look at.

Cudude11 · 03/20/2009, 08:26 PM

what about drive shafts? you going to have a custom one made?

VTEC KILLER · 03/22/2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cudude11

what about drive shafts? you going to have a custom one made?

I would venture to say yes.

That will probably be one of the easiest tasks of this build so far, especially since Drive Shaft Shop is amazing, they can build anything you want, fast and for a fair price.

PharmEcis · 03/22/2009, 11:47 AM

Aluminum rod motor is a waste. Seriously. It's a race only motor that can't be DD'd and after about 30 passes has to come back out for a rebuild as the rods are toast.

Not to mention the notching required in the block is expensive as fuck.

Pace187 · 03/22/2009, 12:28 PM

im so glad you actually planning on running this at a track and not just letting it sit around

bostonhatcher · 03/24/2009, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cudude11

what about drive shafts? you going to have a custom one made?

The Evo one should fit but here shortly I'll be going with a 2-piece aluminum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Aluminum rod motor is a waste. Seriously. It's a race only motor that can't be DD'd and after about 30 passes has to come back out for a rebuild as the rods are toast.

Not to mention the notching required in the block is expensive as fuck.

Tell that to Jake Montgomery who went 4 seasons on the same billet aluminum rod motor and pulled the motor apart and the rods spec'ed out perfectly at some 950 awhp.

At that point it will see almost all track anyway because at 800+ hp billet Al rods are needed.

If I really wanted to DD it then I could always go with the Crower Billet Titanium rods like the new C6 Z06's have. ($1600 a set)

Crower Cams & Equipment - Mitsubishi - Connecting Rods

4g63lover · 03/24/2009, 08:26 AM

awesome build!!

I've seen your car on chitowndsm.com

Dkeeler · 03/25/2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Looks like I found the line where my knowledge breaches yours.

450 awhp is nothing. As soon as I know my awd conversion is good to go and I've ran the piss out of the car and nothing breaks on the 16g then I'm going straight to a htagt3586r or just a gt4294r. Did I not mention this?

I should be ATLEAST 750awhp by DSM Shootout in August. Yes two pumps are needed (or like an A1000). Yes I have a Fuel Lab FPR since -6an lines don't work with the factory regulator lol. And no, having the second fuel pump kick on with a hobbs switch will not alter fuel pressure therefore not affecting the tune.

I really don't think you understand how serious I am...

i dont think i fully understand the htagt3586r or the gt4294r. what are they and what are the benifits to using it. i googled it and it said that they are only like 2000 brand new. this is why i am confused. if you have an evo motor why go to one of these?

please enlighten me

Voodoo · 03/26/2009, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dkeeler

i dont think i fully understand the htagt3586r or the gt4294r. what are they and what are the benifits to using it.

They are considerably big turbos. More airflow at a given pressure means more power, assuming the motor can handle it.

bostonhatcher · 03/26/2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dkeeler

i dont think i fully understand the htagt3586r or the gt4294r. what are they and what are the benifits to using it. i googled it and it said that they are only like 2000 brand new. this is why i am confused. if you have an evo motor why go to one of these?

please enlighten me

The htagt3586r turbo is a T3 gt35r that has been redesigned by FP and is extremely efficient. It has a 2000 grade billet aluminum wheel and spools very quickly with lots of top end. The GT4294r turbo is a T4 turbo and will flow more air but at the cost of extra lag. I'd imagine it would last longer around the 750awhp range. Both are Garrett turbos.

I can sit here all day and write a paper on turbo's. You'll just have to read up a ton on them if you're willing to learn. Grab Corky Bell's turbocharger book and read up on it. You'll learn quite a bit.

Dkeeler · 03/26/2009, 11:43 AM

where would i pick that book up at?

catch-me · 03/27/2009, 08:46 AM

I got it from the library but I wish i would have bought it. try amazon

VTEC KILLER · 03/29/2009, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

The htagt3586r turbo is a T3 gt35r that has been redesigned by FP and is extremely efficient. It has a 2000 grade billet aluminum wheel and spools very quickly with lots of top end. The GT4294r turbo is a T4 turbo and will flow more air but at the cost of extra lag. I'd imagine it would last longer around the 750awhp range. Both are Garrett turbos.

I can sit here all day and write a paper on turbo's. You'll just have to read up a ton on them if you're willing to learn. Grab Corky Bell's turbocharger book and read up on it. You'll learn quite a bit.

If your considering the 35RHTA I would also strongly consider the new PTE HP lineup of billet wheel turbos. There are already a few guys on EVOM making over 750awhp running the HP6262SP and that turbo is only $1300. Considerably less money than the HTA and capable of making the same if not more power.

Cudude11 · 03/30/2009, 02:46 PM

Did you use the Evo CV axles that came with your knock out or the eclipse's?

VTEC KILLER · 03/30/2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cudude11

Did you use the Evo CV axles that came with your knock out or the eclipse's?

The EVO front axle shafts are a larger diameter than the eclipse, so he would have needed to run EVO axles.

bostonhatcher · 03/30/2009, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTEC KILLER

The EVO front axle shafts are a larger diameter than the eclipse, so he would have needed to run EVO axles.

Evo axles.

Update: Everything is back out and I'm taking the subframe back to the fabrication shop to have it reworked one more time then hopefully it goes back in and drives no problems

Are you guys ready for this?

VTEC KILLER · 03/30/2009, 09:21 PM

You should cut the subframe straight thru and then have a cross brace on bottom that is removable for sake of removing the tcase for service, etc. Much like the piece you welded on top, but removable.

Ithinkyou · 03/31/2009, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Evo axles.

Update: Everything is back out and I'm taking the subframe back to the fabrication shop to have it reworked one more time then hopefully it goes back in and drives no problems

Are you guys ready for this?

Id love to see a 3g breakout like an 11 second evo. GAWD that WILL be badass!

Total...
Fuckin..
Package!!

Cudude11 · 03/31/2009, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Are you guys ready for this?

you have no idea!!!

WEASELFURY · 04/13/2009, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

Are you guys ready for this?

Damn man.... this thing has come along so far as of late. i was attempting the same project but hit a lot of roadblocks. im so happy to see you actually accomplishing this. im livin through you bro!

i cant wait!

JohnMyG3 · 04/13/2009, 06:49 PM

nice job man i hope you happy with the end results

Cudude11 · 04/17/2009, 12:27 PM

Any updates?

bostonhatcher · 04/23/2009, 09:10 PM

The subframe now fits with the motor/transmission/transfer case in the car. My fabricater welded two big bar stocks across the bottom front and back. I did a little more trimming around the motor mount and now it fits like a dream. I can now hang on the transfer case and bench press it and it doesn't touch anything. Polyurethane motor mounts are nice. Pic below.

I did NOT use the spacers.

I also went to stainless steel power steering lines (-6an pressure, -8an return). I found that the biss screw on the throttle body was 3/4 of the way out and was cracked so I replaced that with a new seal and also put new Works aperture tb shaft seals in. The throttle body gasket was in upside down as well. Hopefully it will idle at 800 rpms now.

The coolant leak was caused by using the 3g Eclipse water pump on an Evo block. It has two slits that have no passages to them that go from the inside of the block to the outside where coolant was carried and dumped. JB weld and silicone on the water pump gasket for extra insurance was called for. The radiator is currently full and no water has leaked in the past 6 hours. We'll see what happens when the pump creates a little pressure in the coolant system.

Everything is together and the only thing left is the driveshaft. I have a few options:

*One-piece carbon fiber PST driveshaft $1200
*2g rear shaft with custom one piece 3"-3.5" aluminum shaft that replaces both front and middle piece. (uses rear carrier bearing and bracket) $250-$350
*Stock Evo D/S

Probably end up doing the 2g with custom Aluminum shaft.

Should be running next week.

Cudude11 · 04/23/2009, 09:15 PM

looks FANTASTIC!

VTEC KILLER · 04/23/2009, 09:20 PM

Did you make the SS lines yet? I had a -6SS line going from the p/s pump to the hardline that mounts on the frame rail and it broke. The SS lines are rated for 800psi and the p/s pump at full pressure (when the wheel is locked either direction) produces over 1,000psi. I had to use hydraulic lines rated for 1500psi and AN fittings on those lines.

That crossmember looks really good, nice work.

bostonhatcher · 04/23/2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTEC KILLER

Did you make the SS lines yet? I had a -6SS line going from the p/s pump to the hardline that mounts on the frame rail and it broke. The SS lines are rated for 800psi and the p/s pump at full pressure (when the wheel is locked either direction) produces over 1,000psi. I had to use hydraulic lines rated for 1500psi and AN fittings on those lines.

That crossmember looks really good, nice work.

Are you serious? Yes the lines are already on. Where did you get your lines?

Just snapped a pic of my Home Depot custom front lip ($21

)

DAMN she's dirty!

scarr · 04/23/2009, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bostonhatcher

DAMN she's dirty!

and flying!

bostonhatcher · 04/23/2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scarr

and flying!

I installed those hover discs on the bottom like on Back To the Future 2 lol.

02/15/2009, 10:26 PM	#121 (permalink)
Voodoo Lift and Separate Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Wisconsin Vehicle: 03 Ultra Red GS-T Posts: 1,029	Looking good man __________________ -Rob

02/27/2009, 12:28 PM	#124 (permalink)
Cudude11 4g64T Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: North Carolina Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi EclipseGS Posts: 637	Yes, we need updates on such a build! __________________ Certified Zip-tie Mechanic

03/05/2009, 10:39 AM	#130 (permalink)
raz_76 Nismo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: -OKC- Vehicle: Maxima SE 6spd Manual Posts: 3,587	Nice build dude. __________________

03/07/2009, 12:51 PM	#132 (permalink)
MitsEclipseGS Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GS 5spd Posts: 308	Great build man keep up the great work and good luck! __________________ 2000 Eclipse GS 5 spd Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust AEM Short Ram Intake Megan Racing Short Shifter & ES Bushings GReddy Counterweighted Shift Knob Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge OEM GT Front Strut Bar Sonar Projectors & Xtune 6000K HIDs http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2582083

03/08/2009, 11:41 PM	#134 (permalink)
bluebomber Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Colorado Vehicle: 03 AWD DOHC Turbo GSX Posts: 197	Do you have her up and running yet? __________________

02/27/2009, 11:05 AM	#123 (permalink)
slava GT35 DOHC 500wHp Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal Vehicle: 3G turbo Posts: 532	Any updates bud??

03/01/2009, 01:40 AM	#125 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420	All the wiring is almost done and it looks sexy. O2 sensor is all that's left but I won't be able to get to it till Monday. I have to wait on the Full Blown 2G Dual Pump setup which won't be here until Wednesday anyway. All my time has been going into my buddies Talon, which got a ported head w/ Crower 272's, JMFabrications IM, FP3065 w/ DNP mani, 950cc's, and a full -6 fuel system. We got it running today so I'll finish my car up shortly. YouTube - 92 talon tsi, FP3065, Crower 272s, initial startup. YouTube - 92 Talon TSi FP3065 Crower 272's Idle Vid

03/01/2009, 03:30 PM	#126 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420	LICP pipe is fabbed up and beadrolled and ready for tig welding:

03/02/2009, 05:21 PM	#127 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420

03/02/2009, 05:31 PM	#128 (permalink)
slava GT35 DOHC 500wHp Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal Vehicle: 3G turbo Posts: 532	Looks good man!! Just make sure bumper fits... I had to reweld shit out of my UIP when i tried to put bumper on LOL (was a big fuckup on my part) GL man looking forward to see driveshaft and subframe pics!!!

03/03/2009, 04:10 AM	#129 (permalink)
EclipseEvo8 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 108	[b]This build looks great and as everyone else has said if the subframe wasn't such a pain in the butt then more people would be doing it. But good thing it is because that means the people with the AWD 3G's know what the hell they are doing and deserve the special car. I can't wait for the complete How-To if you decide to write one up because I'm really thinking about doing this to my car (the AWD) but it's more work than I am capable of. I need it for the friggen snow so that my rear end doesn't cut loose or wobble back and forth while I am driving from the incredible crosswinds we see in my state. (Only Wobbles in the Snow, would suck if it did it all the time.) Awesome job so far, can't wait to see some video's of this bad boy. (You did say Sex Change)

03/08/2009, 10:43 PM	#133 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420

03/10/2009, 08:48 AM	#136 (permalink)
bluebomber Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Colorado Vehicle: 03 AWD DOHC Turbo GSX Posts: 197	Sadly between my two jobs I have not really had the chance to fully enjoy the fruits of my labor, hoping to only need one job come summer and be able to drive her more, but nothing has broken yet. One thing I will need to add is a stiffy dampener, when you do a hard launch and let of quickly the t-case sometimes smacks the tunnel, also still have to get an alignment done. __________________

03/13/2009, 03:01 AM	#137 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420	Dual Walbro 255 setup is together and ready to drop in.

03/13/2009, 03:24 AM	#138 (permalink)
quick92rs 2 steps closer to FI Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Akron, OH Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse RS Posts: 1,213	Get that shit in there and get it finished so you can track it. I've been watching this thread since you started it. Ya need to get it finished, I can't take it anymore lol.

03/13/2009, 03:38 AM	#141 (permalink)
quick92rs 2 steps closer to FI Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Akron, OH Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse RS Posts: 1,213	Thanks a ton for taking all the pictures and everything through the whole process. It'll make it a ton easier when I go to do mine. BTW was there ever a decision on the Galant VR4 subframe on whether or not it will work so we don't have to cut ours? Rep for you sir

03/13/2009, 04:43 PM	#142 (permalink)
bluebomber Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Colorado Vehicle: 03 AWD DOHC Turbo GSX Posts: 197	It doesn't hit where you circled, its the end where the drive shaft goes in where it hits the top of the tunnel during a hard accel. Everything else clears. __________________

03/13/2009, 08:23 PM	#143 (permalink)
PharmEcis Resident Asshole Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Silver Spring, MD Vehicle: 2g stratus 2g eclipse Posts: 4,699	You need to ditch the full blown setup. You have ZERO need for it. A single walbro is good for over 450AWHP on a Mustang Dyno. You are going to cause tuning issues with two pumps running in tandem and I hope you have an aftermarket FPR so it can handle the pressure. Honestly, the full blown setup is WAY overkill. The only time we have to use them is when cars are fully built with a huge turbo. __________________ 01 Stratus R/T Turbo www.2gstratus.org www.ucsperformance.com 240.271.0280 2007 NASA TTR National Champions! 2008 Redline Time Attack Summit Point Unlimited FWD 3rd Place! FIRST PNP AEM EMS! FIRST 3.8L 6G75 MIVEC SWAP IN THE WORLD! I sell custom turbo kits for the 3G. If you are serious about a turbo kit, call the number above.

03/13/2009, 10:09 PM	#144 (permalink)
bluebomber Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Colorado Vehicle: 03 AWD DOHC Turbo GSX Posts: 197	I second that. __________________

03/14/2009, 10:49 AM	#146 (permalink)
quick92rs 2 steps closer to FI Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Akron, OH Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse RS Posts: 1,213	You're taking it to the shootout? Cool deal, looks like I'll see you there and I'll get to see it in person.

03/16/2009, 11:50 PM	#147 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420	Got it started Saturday. Had a pretty serious coolant leak at the water pump and a power steering leak at the pressure hose where it bolts to the pump (threads are stripped). The idle was around 2000 rpms which is either from a vacuum leak or from having no coolant. Got a compression test in after running and it was 180 psi across the board YouTube - 3g Eclipse First Start

03/17/2009, 12:48 AM	#148 (permalink)
Voodoo Lift and Separate Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Wisconsin Vehicle: 03 Ultra Red GS-T Posts: 1,029	Congrats on the start up. What was with the idle surge or whatever that noise was at the end of the video? __________________ -Rob

03/20/2009, 08:26 PM	#154 (permalink)
Cudude11 4g64T Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: North Carolina Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi EclipseGS Posts: 637	what about drive shafts? you going to have a custom one made? __________________ Certified Zip-tie Mechanic

03/22/2009, 11:47 AM	#156 (permalink)
PharmEcis Resident Asshole Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Silver Spring, MD Vehicle: 2g stratus 2g eclipse Posts: 4,699	Aluminum rod motor is a waste. Seriously. It's a race only motor that can't be DD'd and after about 30 passes has to come back out for a rebuild as the rods are toast. Not to mention the notching required in the block is expensive as fuck. __________________ 01 Stratus R/T Turbo www.2gstratus.org www.ucsperformance.com 240.271.0280 2007 NASA TTR National Champions! 2008 Redline Time Attack Summit Point Unlimited FWD 3rd Place! FIRST PNP AEM EMS! FIRST 3.8L 6G75 MIVEC SWAP IN THE WORLD! I sell custom turbo kits for the 3G. If you are serious about a turbo kit, call the number above.

03/22/2009, 12:28 PM	#157 (permalink)
Pace187 01 GT Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: New England Vehicle: 01 GT Posts: 2,764	im so glad you actually planning on running this at a track and not just letting it sit around __________________ Members Ride....Check it out

03/24/2009, 08:26 AM	#159 (permalink)
4g63lover Galant Tuner Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Gilberts, IL Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES Posts: 173	awesome build!! I've seen your car on chitowndsm.com __________________ 00' Mitsubishi Galant ES

03/26/2009, 11:43 AM	#163 (permalink)
Dkeeler Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 20	where would i pick that book up at?

03/27/2009, 08:46 AM	#164 (permalink)
catch-me Head Swap Baby!!! Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Zeeland, MI Posts: 349	I got it from the library but I wish i would have bought it. try amazon

03/30/2009, 02:46 PM	#166 (permalink)
Cudude11 4g64T Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: North Carolina Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi EclipseGS Posts: 637	Did you use the Evo CV axles that came with your knock out or the eclipse's? __________________ Certified Zip-tie Mechanic

03/30/2009, 09:21 PM	#169 (permalink)
VTEC KILLER EVO Powered Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 414	You should cut the subframe straight thru and then have a cross brace on bottom that is removable for sake of removing the tcase for service, etc. Much like the piece you welded on top, but removable. __________________ 99' Galant ES Built 4G64 Built EVO Head AEM EMS

04/13/2009, 06:49 PM	#173 (permalink)
JohnMyG3 Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: winchester va Vehicle: 2002 eclipse gs Posts: 23	nice job man i hope you happy with the end results __________________ ITs My G3 2002 Eclispe Gs

04/17/2009, 12:27 PM	#174 (permalink)
Cudude11 4g64T Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: North Carolina Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi EclipseGS Posts: 637	Any updates? __________________ Certified Zip-tie Mechanic

04/23/2009, 09:10 PM	#175 (permalink)
bostonhatcher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse GSX Posts: 420	The subframe now fits with the motor/transmission/transfer case in the car. My fabricater welded two big bar stocks across the bottom front and back. I did a little more trimming around the motor mount and now it fits like a dream. I can now hang on the transfer case and bench press it and it doesn't touch anything. Polyurethane motor mounts are nice. Pic below. I did NOT use the spacers. I also went to stainless steel power steering lines (-6an pressure, -8an return). I found that the biss screw on the throttle body was 3/4 of the way out and was cracked so I replaced that with a new seal and also put new Works aperture tb shaft seals in. The throttle body gasket was in upside down as well. Hopefully it will idle at 800 rpms now. The coolant leak was caused by using the 3g Eclipse water pump on an Evo block. It has two slits that have no passages to them that go from the inside of the block to the outside where coolant was carried and dumped. JB weld and silicone on the water pump gasket for extra insurance was called for. The radiator is currently full and no water has leaked in the past 6 hours. We'll see what happens when the pump creates a little pressure in the coolant system. Everything is together and the only thing left is the driveshaft. I have a few options: One-piece carbon fiber PST driveshaft $1200 2g rear shaft with custom one piece 3"-3.5" aluminum shaft that replaces both front and middle piece. (uses rear carrier bearing and bracket) $250-$350 *Stock Evo D/S Probably end up doing the 2g with custom Aluminum shaft. Should be running next week.

04/23/2009, 09:15 PM	#176 (permalink)
Cudude11 4g64T Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: North Carolina Vehicle: 2000 Mitsubishi EclipseGS Posts: 637	looks FANTASTIC! __________________ Certified Zip-tie Mechanic

04/23/2009, 09:20 PM	#177 (permalink)
VTEC KILLER EVO Powered Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 414	Did you make the SS lines yet? I had a -6SS line going from the p/s pump to the hardline that mounts on the frame rail and it broke. The SS lines are rated for 800psi and the p/s pump at full pressure (when the wheel is locked either direction) produces over 1,000psi. I had to use hydraulic lines rated for 1500psi and AN fittings on those lines. That crossmember looks really good, nice work. __________________ 99' Galant ES Built 4G64 Built EVO Head AEM EMS