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Old 12/11/2005, 10:48 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Thanks for the heads up Did you have any problem w/ the front dust shiled/backing plate?
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Old 12/11/2005, 10:57 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punker9474
Thanks for the heads up Did you have any problem w/ the front dust shiled/backing plate?

Yeah, you'll have to remove the front dust shield as well, but it's just bolted on, the rear is tack welded on, so it's a bit of a pain, but no biggie.
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Old 02/03/2006, 02:50 PM   #63 (permalink)
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what parts would i need to get in order to use this (the front and rear upgrade) because i dont really want to use the smaller stock rotors

http://www.machv.com/aembrakup.html
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Old 05/27/2006, 03:15 PM   #64 (permalink)
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looks great...i'll do the convertion too..when?..i dont know..hehe
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Old 06/05/2006, 12:24 PM   #65 (permalink)
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I just did the dual front conversion and having a slight problem. I bled the brakes, and the Right Front remains closed and whe wheel doesnt spin. =/
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Old 08/16/2006, 09:22 PM   #66 (permalink)
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ok...I've been looking into doing the rear disc conversion quite throughly and I have that list of all the parts that I need, but I just have 2 questions..

1.-I noticed that in the parts list SS brake lines were suggested, but is it nessicary to replace all the brake lines (lines from which the fluid travels to the calipers) from front to back? is that what the procedures are saying to do?

2.-I'm noticing no one mentioned anything about redoing the porportioning valve..will the stock GS one work or would I have to go get an adjustable one?
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Old 03/28/2007, 03:08 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Alright, posting this in the sticky thread.

Quote:
Here are my pics in HOW-TO format.

Well, I got my drum-to-disc conversion done on my 3G eclipse. And oh my! It stops a shit-ton faster!

This is my how-to guide for people of the Eclipse/DSM/Mitsubishi/2G stratus people who wish to conver their drum brakes to Disc-Rotors.

You will need to get some rotors DUHH the whole assembly. Mine are from 2G by the looks of it, so a GST or GSX, doesnt matter really.



First my rotors were looking like this, so I had to get them turned.
Checked out the local Sears, they told me it would be $33 a rotor to get them turned. BS; I told them they were off the vehicle and the guy was still firm on $33 a rotor.

Than I went to a Bridgestone/Firestone dealer, and asked the guy there. He told me it would be $40 a rotor... wtf..

Well I found a better deal @ Goodyear

They kept it real and told me it would be $12 a rotor. So i went with that.


Job done!!

Alright, to the project.


First we have to take this ugly ass rusted drum rotor off. It will be stuck so I can either put a bolt into the drum assembley and screw that in, and plop it out.

Or I can be a real man and use a better option!

Alright, looks like that did the trick.Now to disassemble the entire drum assembly so I can get to the e-brake cable which we will be using later .


Alright, now we are at the E-brake cable, which can be tricky to get off it seems like.


There is a clip on the Drum plate which will be rusty. Simply just get that clip off and pull the ebrake cable through the drum back plate.


Now you need to unbolt the brake lines. This nut will more than likley be stuck! I used a arc joint wrench and just used brunt force and turned it. Worked pretty well.


Now need yo get the rear hub of, there are four bolts in the back that are set to 60lbs/ft each so make sure when you put them back on, to those or similar specs, dont want any disasters later on. :biggthump

Once you take the hub off, we can get the rear drum plate off, and put on the caliper knuckle and emergency brake setup.


This seemed to be the biggest PITA for me, on the back plate for the new brake assembly there is a hole for the emergency brake line to slide through, but its too small. Many people just dremel it larger which is a similar route I took.

Now slide the ebrake into its place and your done with that. And you can put the hub back on. :biggthump


Now put the rotor on and slide the caliper mounting bracket on, and if you did not purchase or recieve any bolts for it; make sure to get 10MM X 1.25 X 20 bolts, and make sure those are Grade-8 bolts!


Looking better now, get the caliper on, make sure the two bolts are greased; if not grease them.

Connect the brake lines to the caliper, and the little bracket and bleed them!

Now complete!



As for re-doing the proportioning valve, the answer should be NO. As for the master cylinder and brake booster as well. The RS-GS uses the same components as the GT-GTS according to the Mitsubishi FULL manual.

Currently though, I am having an issuewith the brakes being very soft. And needing to pump them to get full power.

I am assuming its them needing to be re-bled and I mean seriously re-bled. We bled them and noticed no bubbles but there is no way they should be acting the way they are.
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Old 04/07/2007, 08:38 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I just did my rear drum to rotor conversion and I got to say. OMG !!!!! I just feel bad I was waiting for it so long. Great braking force coming from rear. I know I had mine old one in a bad shape, but still its a big difference. I love it.

OK. Here we go... SOME VERY USEFUL FOR THOSE WHO LOOKING FOR DRUM TO ROTOR CONVERSION.

Cars with the same setup for rear that fits our RS/GS.
1. Mitsubishi GT 00-05
2. Mitsubishi GSX GST 95-99
3. Dodge Avenger V6 95-00
4. Chrysler Sebring V6 95-00


I`m in a process on checking on some Dodge Intrepids if those are the same... they kind look the same. Anyway...

The setup I used on mine is the one that came off 95 Dodge Avenger. Parts I used:
a) 95 Dodge Avenger V6 backing plate - used from junkyard - $60 both.
b) 00 Mitsubishi GT new rear calipers (the same part number for all other cars) that came with caliper holder and pads - $120 a side
c) 00 Mitsubishi GT new rear rotors - ~$55 both

60+240+55= $355 - but you got to remeber that is with BRAND NEW CALIPERS, ROTORS, PADS.

Pic 1 - this all what I used for parts.



Pic 2. - "New" rotor type backing plate - I had mine with e-brake pads



Pic 3. - Brand new caliper that came with caliper holder and Premium Thermo pads - ~$120



Pic 4-5. - I took it apart because I had tools to complete clean up. I washed them and paint them black with high temp paint.




Pic 6. - Brake line adapter that can be used from your stock rubber line to your new caliper. I didnt use it because I had wrong size :evil:



Pic 7. - Good thing I had tools to flare brake lines so I did small line adapter. It works more then great.



Pic 8. - Your empty spindle - half way thru. This is good picture where you can see how I clamp my rubber hose with vise grip and sockets. Sockets makes safer grip and wont damage that hose (as long you wont clip it to hard)



Pic 9-10. - My old stuff with hub-bearing assembly.




Pic 11-13. - Great looking results. That blue color is from my first brake work. I always felt like silver and blue is good combination :P 8)



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Old 04/21/2007, 06:24 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Smile Feels like im on my one!

Hello everyone....

Its my first post,im not from usa.But im proud of driving the Eclipse RS 2.4 2001 came the whole way down from usa (new jersey) to greece

I need to swap my rear drum to discs,but i find it a bit risky to do it here.Haven't found the mechanic yet to make it work

Can you guys give me a list of what parts i need to have the whole rear drum kit changed with discs(including ss lines and pads....etc.)?

Or any shop you may think is a great seller on ebay,coz i got an account there.

Thank you / Dimitris
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Old 04/21/2007, 10:23 AM   #70 (permalink)
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http://club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86564


Also, using the orange SEARCH button is going to answer about any question you might have.
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Old 04/22/2007, 12:20 PM   #71 (permalink)
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the first post on this thread said that the parts come off of the rs/gs and towards the end of the thread said GS-T/GSX

I need to double check before i start buying parts
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Old 04/25/2007, 02:24 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
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the first post on this thread said that the parts come off of the rs/gs and towards the end of the thread said GS-T/GSX

I need to double check before i start buying parts
GS-T And GSX use the same rear brake assembly and will work.

Same part numbers.
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Old 04/27/2007, 04:28 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Dzien dobry allias...my polish is realy bad jestem to salonica!!liber-jestem to poznan!! masakra..
my nickname is this spidfm....
do widzenia..
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Old 04/27/2007, 05:27 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Dzien dobry allias...my polish is realy bad jestem to salonica!!liber-jestem to poznan!! masakra..
my nickname is this spidfm....
do widzenia..
wtf?
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Old 04/28/2007, 04:38 PM   #75 (permalink)
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chill babe...........
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Old 04/28/2007, 05:01 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Dzien dobry allias...my polish is realy bad jestem to salonica!!liber-jestem to poznan!! masakra..
my nickname is this spidfm....
do widzenia..
I lost my "secret decoder"
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Old 04/29/2007, 12:53 AM   #77 (permalink)
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I lost my "secret decoder"
by secret decoder, do you mean 1/2 liter of absolut, because everyone can speaks perfect polish when there is booze around
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Old 06/17/2007, 06:58 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Reviving this thread.

Well the time has come its been about 2 years since i upgraded to my Dual Piston calipers, and mine are just shot! And warped.

Anyways, I dont want to order rotors from Tirerack saying i own a 2000-2005 Eclipse "GT" Because im sure I will get the single popper sized rotors. Which are smaller and wont fit.

So what car can I saw i "own" when i order these brakes. Do I say a 3000GT SL???
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Old 07/05/2007, 01:18 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Exclamation

I got all my parts off of a 95 Talon. Don't know if it was Awd or N/A but everything fits great. $150 for everything and they had someone pull the parts off the Talon for me. Sweet.
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Old 09/01/2007, 08:46 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Umm reviving this thread for some small info. I read that some people were having squeaks from the rear swap after PS rotors were slotted on. Well, I got good news, it's not going to affect your cars braking performance. If you have Autozone/Pep-boys' metallic/ceramic brake pads, after about 1k in miles of braking in the PS rotor, that is normal. From what I understand, it's metal rubbing against metal, it's gonna squeak. So the best thing to buy for brake pads is Carbon-ceramic, keep in mind Metallic/ceramic can survive in rain a lot more that most brake pads, that's why they last so long for about 2 years.

If this has been mentioned before, well in in the sticky for reference.
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Old 09/12/2007, 09:23 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Re

Wow, great thread. I would love to swap out the drums on my car for rotors, but I would need some help. I don't have the money to do it yet nor have I looked into getting the parts. I wanted to see if there was anyone in the Bloomington area that would mind giving me a hand if I did get everything in the next month or so? I can compensate you for your time with some booze or money, lol. Let me know if anyone has done this before in my area and if you could possible lend a hand when I do finally get this going.
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Old 11/27/2007, 11:37 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Well i pulled this from a diamante and so far it looks like it's going to fit. the good thing about it less parts and it weighs less then the 2nd gen set up and the stock gt/gts set up.










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Old 12/07/2007, 11:39 PM   #83 (permalink)
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The calipers are aluminum as well and the piston is bigger.


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Old 12/08/2007, 08:27 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Figured id chime in about this as well. I paid $109 after tax for the entire rear end of a 97 eclipse.

Rear End
Before Cleaning
After Sandblasting
Final Product

I had to buy nothing. The rotors cleaned up well, and the pads looked brand new. Made a major difference performance and appearance wise.

On car
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Old 12/12/2007, 05:58 AM   #85 (permalink)
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quick question for those of you who have done this. What size are the hub bolts? (Example: M12x1.25x15) Or at the very least the mitsu part number? I'm going to be diving into this in the next week and wanted to replace those bolts with new hardware.
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Old 12/12/2007, 04:13 PM   #86 (permalink)
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quick question for those of you who have done this. What size are the hub bolts? (Example: M12x1.25x15) Or at the very least the mitsu part number? I'm going to be diving into this in the next week and wanted to replace those bolts with new hardware.
I have old ones at work.. I can measure them tomorrow if you can wait that long.
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Old 12/12/2007, 06:31 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I have old ones at work.. I can measure them tomorrow if you can wait that long.
That's fine. It'll be a week before my final parts come in anyway. Thanks a lot!
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Old 02/07/2008, 06:11 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Could someone email me NAPALM's How To? My computers not showing the pictures for some reason? This would be a major help! If you could do this for me I'll give you my email address. Is it showing them for you guys? I could get the link for you as well.
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Old 02/07/2008, 06:28 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Could someone email me NAPALM's How To? My computers not showing the pictures for some reason? This would be a major help! If you could do this for me I'll give you my email address. Is it showing them for you guys? I could get the link for you as well.
Heres one I re-did for 2gstratus, using NAPALM's, but editing a few things. My pictures still work; hopefully they help you.

Rear Drums to Discs Conversion - 2GStratus
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Old 02/26/2008, 06:53 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balla4880 View Post
The dual piston caliper requires the bracket that mounts it to the backing plate also. It won't fit on single piston caliper bracket.
Did we ever get a conformation on this?
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Old 02/26/2008, 07:00 PM   #91 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=allias;2043514]I just did my rear drum to rotor conversion and I got to say. OMG !!!!! I just feel bad I was waiting for it so long. Great braking force coming from rear. I know I had mine old one in a bad shape, but still its a big difference. I love it.


Pic 6. - Brake line adapter that can be used from your stock rubber line to your new caliper. I didnt use it because I had wrong size :evil:


Do you need any adapters for the rear if you are using aftermarket SS brake lines for a GT? I'm planning on doing the swap on my 2000 GS.
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Old 02/26/2008, 07:11 PM   #92 (permalink)
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you shouldn't. I did my swap with SS lines for a GT, and they bolted right up.
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Old 02/26/2008, 07:19 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Thanks alot. Just gathering the little stuff. One last question. In an earlier post above...someone mentioned you had to take the backing plates off to run evo brembos? Is this for both front and rear?
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Old 02/26/2008, 07:42 PM   #94 (permalink)
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don't quote me, but from my understanding you do. the front dust shields bolt on and can be easily removed. The rears are tack-welded to the backing plate and require some modification to clear the rear rotors the brembos use.
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Old 05/18/2008, 08:31 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Changing the tone of the thread a bit...

Would the dual pot calipers of the 00' GT be the same as the 99-5/00 Galant V6? It seems easier to track down the pads and rotors for the Galant than it is for the Eclipse with those front brakes. I figured since the rear disc setup seems to be universal among most Mitsu models of the past decade, (I did a rear disc swap using Galant V6 rear brakes) wouldn't the same hold true for the fronts?
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Old 09/23/2008, 08:05 PM   #96 (permalink)
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i was also offered a 1g turbo from a talon and i tried calling r.r.e. and they said it wouldn't work. its like a mix and match kinda thing. and he did not recommend it.
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