![]() |
![]() Support Our Troops! |
Support Club3G! |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Credit Guru
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Vegas Bitches
Posts: 5,831
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Drum to disc and dual front calipers
I figured I would add this before the other site goes under. The link to the old site is http://www.eclipseforums.org/forum/s...0&pagenumber=1
So for the Rear Conversion you need: Rear GT calipers e-brake assembly Brake lines (should upgrade to SS lines) e-brake Cables Rear Backing plates Rear rotors Rear brake pads You can get most of those items off of www.DSMtrader.com from a 2G GS/RS not GSX. For the Front Dual Caliper you will need the calipers off of a 2000 GT and the GT rotors as well. When you order brake pads make sure you specify 2000 GT or you will get the wrong ones. You can also get these off a 2G GSX. They bolt right up to your existing backing plate. I also advise to upgrade to SS lines here too. I will be doing both conversions this summer and will take lots of pics and post them up. Feel free to add if I forgot anything. And please make this a sticky.
Last edited by Alan; 05/15/2004 at 09:14 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Credit Guru
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Vegas Bitches
Posts: 5,831
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Other members have said that the dual piston does in fact mount up with no modification. If I wasn't banned from the old site I could give you a link to a member who actually did the swap and said he only needed the calipers.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: 37642
Vehicle: 00 3g rs-t
Posts: 974
![]() ![]() ![]() |
i have a 2000 eclipse rs and did the swap about last spring and the mounting brackets that were on my car were to small and i had to order the brackets for the gt also. I have both of my old brackets and will check later to see if they are the same.
I also did the rear drum conversion and it went pretty smooth. Getting the emergency brake right was about the hardest thing and it was not even that hard. It cost 50$ for the emergency brake cables(from mitsu) and about 100$ for both calipers and e-brake assembly. I went ahead and put on ss brake lines all around and powerslot rotors all around. It was one of the best mods i have done. I suugest you buy ceramic brake pads also they are great and you dont have to clean your rims that often either. They produce alot less brake dust. Last edited by balla4880; 05/21/2004 at 11:43 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) |
|
i hate iraq!
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 119
![]() |
what is up
hey guys, i got deployed to iraq so internet use is limited. when i get a chance ill try and hook up my laptop and post some pics of the install i did a few months ago on the brakes. i would post them on this pc but i cant seem to find a flash drive anywhere. ill keep you posted.......peace!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Vehicle: 2001 Eclipse GS
Posts: 1,440
![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#22 (permalink) |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
and just to clarify, these are the parts i'm getting:
Backing plate Caliper mounting bracket and mounting bolts (2 bolts per side) Calipers with mounting pins (2 pins per side) Both discs (rotors) parking brake parts all for 225.00 that's all i need besides the pads and Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit (upgrade), right? |
|
|
|
|
|
#25 (permalink) |
|
OMFG
![]() |
Yup thats everything.
I recommended in my HOW-TO that you get the hub bearing and mounting bolts which you didnt get. Its not necessary I just recommend getting them in case you brake a bolt while installing or removing the hubs. Hopefully you dont break any. I broke 2 when I did mine. Get those rotors to a machine shop. They will make them look sexy. |
|
|
|
|
|
#26 (permalink) | |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
i'm cleaning them right now. hopfully i can make them pretty too
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#29 (permalink) | |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#31 (permalink) | ||
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
#35 (permalink) |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
oh yeah, should i upgrade to the stainless steel brake lines? I'm going to order some rear pads and can get the brake lines too. although i should be saving money from here on out. what do you guys think?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#38 (permalink) | |
|
WannaB Sexual Banana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milton, FL
Vehicle: 08 Tundra
Posts: 2,782
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#40 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 442
![]() ![]() |
Just finished my swap. It was easy. It took me 3 hours with a 30 minute break
. The hardest part was actually fitting a torque wrench under the car to torque those 4 bolts that go through the knuckle. Also make sure you get a flare end wrench or whatever it's called. It's impossible to get the brake lines off without one. The hole in the back of the plate that the e-brake cables go through is too small. So you either trim the cap on the brake cables or the hole in the plate. I just took a dremel tool and enlarged the hole on the backing plate. You only need to take off very little. Took about 3 minutes per side. Getting the e-brake cable attached was very easy. I just used a flat head screwdriver to push it in there. I remember reading before that it was hard. I had no problems with that. Took me about 2 minutes ![]() That's pretty much it. I got stoptech brake lines and powerslot big brake rear rotors to go with my baer kit. The rotors are black. I also painted the calipers black. The rim center caps are off in the picture. Camera phone pic. If you can use a screwdriver and a wrench do this yourself and save lots of cash
|
|
|
|
|
|
#47 (permalink) | |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#48 (permalink) | |
|
Thats my boy!
![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#50 (permalink) | |
|
Mein Teil
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: NC
Vehicle: 3G :idea:
Posts: 5,607
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#51 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Killeen/Harker Heights, TX
Vehicle: 02 sherwood green GS
Posts: 2,084
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So just for clarification...the rotors, calipers, and mounting brackets from a 2g (Eclipse/Talon) are a direct swap for our rear drums? And the emergency brake cables will not work?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#52 (permalink) |
|
Mr. Roboto
|
I want to have the same rear suspension as a GT/GTS as well including the rear sway bar. Something has been bothering me. Does the RS and GT/GTS have the same upper and lower control arms? I want to know this because It would be /very/ convenient if all I need for the rear sway bar is the rear crossmenber and the rear disc brake and e-brake stuff mentioned above.
__________________
2000 RS Auto (Non Sporty) |
|
|
|
|
|
#54 (permalink) |
|
Mr. Roboto
|
I'd love to find a wrecked GT at the junkyard. If not I'll obtain everything I need at a dealership. I mostly want the rear disc brakes so I can use Aftermarket GT/GTS stainless steel lines and the Brembo brake kit too. But that sway bar would be really nice as well.
__________________
2000 RS Auto (Non Sporty) |
|
|
|
|
|
#55 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Killeen/Harker Heights, TX
Vehicle: 02 sherwood green GS
Posts: 2,084
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I finally did the drum-to-disc swap!!!
Here's the story. I pulled the entire rear disc set up off of a wrecked '95 GS; hubs, backing plates, rotors, calipers, pads, lines, parking cables. I paid $216 total. (I pulled the parts) I ordered powerslots and Hawks for all four corners from PPS: $385 shipped w/ins. Also got SS lines from RRE: $85 Shipped. TOTAL: Just under $700 (with misc. parts like fluid, new hardware, ect.) I did this entire swap in the street in front of my house. It was very simple. NAPALM's "How-To" is extreemly helpful. If you have experience with brakes you can easily do this yourself, but if you dont, PLEASE DONT RISK YOUR SAFETY BY DOING THIS YOURSELF. (There are too many things you can mess up or forget) Anyway, I found that our drum hubs are the same as disc hubs. The only problem I had when the install was done was that my passenger side rear rotor was grinding. I first thought it was the parking brake dragging. After taking everything back appart I found that a part of the mounting bracket was bent and rubbing on the inside of the rotor. I beat it back into place and now everything works fine. I can imagine that this might be a common problem with doing this swap. Most of the parts for the swap are likely to be pulled off of a salvage car that has been sitting on the ground with no wheels on it. I know my dust shields were bent all to crap. Parts from the donor car after being cleaned and painted. ![]() Here is the inside shoe assembly with the drum removed. The Parking cable is loose. Dealing with the parking cable is the most frustrating and time consuiming part of the swap. ![]() BTW I used my stock GS parking cables; you do have to loosen the cables quite a bit at the parking brake handle inside the car to get it all to go together. ![]() Here it is all put together. ![]() ![]() ![]() Front Powerslots ![]() Alot of people have said that they get horrible squealing from their powershots/hawks, but I used alot of "Brake Parts Grease" from Autozone on the backside of the pads, and they have not squealed once in 200 miles. I HIGHLY recommend this swap for ALL GS/RS owners. Last edited by GSKNIGHT; 12/10/2005 at 06:06 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#59 (permalink) |
|
One Sic Mic
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: F-150 Supercrew 4x4
Posts: 3,435
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Definitely! If I have time today I'm gonna' hit the rear conversion. I'm just worried about hitting some snag that won't allow me to have the car rolling tomorrow. I've got a Dyno-tuning session scheduled in the morning.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#60 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Vehicle: 2001 Eclipse GS
Posts: 1,440
![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
The only thing you'll have to worry about on the rears is the dust shield (you'll have to remove it) and the stock Evo mounting bolts I received with mine were too long and contacted the rotor from the back, so I used the Eclipse bolts. You have to use the Evo mounting bolts on the fronts though. |
|
|
|
|