HOW TO: Add a Remote Turn-on Lead on to Your PP Stock DIN Wire

[Dead_Cow]

Before you jump down to the pictures and the how-to, PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE SECTION. I am not accountable if you hack up your stock din cable and mess it up beyond repair.

Hey y'all I had my old stock DIN wire... I decided to hack it up to help you all a little. I should also mention here that this is multiple purpose... it was to find out for me what color wire inside did what, and also, how to add a remote lead to the stock cable. Before all the "pros" jump all over me for doing the the way I did, please realize, that I know the best way to fasten all wires together is by twisting, tinning, and wrapping. Joe user isn't comforatable with that. If you are, please substitue what you see here for those steps. Otherwise, this will work... loss will be unnoticable, so, dont' worry...

First let's start off with a little explanation of what you'll see here.
Explanation:
The cable is double-jacketed, that is, inside, there's a orange wire inside, and a grey wire. Inside the grey wire, you'll find all audio connections. Let me state something here... read this.. it's important.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT THE GREY WIRE IN ORDER TO COMPLETE THIS PROJECT. WIRE THAT YOU NEED IS OUTSIDE THE GREY WIRE. DO NOT CUT THE GREY WIRE IF YOU DO NOT NEED TO ACCESS THE ACTUAL LINE-LEVEL AUDIO CONNECTIONS.

Did you read that part above? If you didn't, go back and read it. As a matter of fact, even if you did, read it again. It's that important.

If you only need a remote lead, then gently open the black cable jacket, exposing the two wires inside. and tap the orange wire for your remote lead. Remeber, the less wires you can cut, the better. Also, you'll need a Low Voltage Trigger in order to energize an aftermarket amp.

Second, let's follow up with a helpful diagram of the DIN cable end, the associated function of each pin, and the corresponding color of each sheathed wire inside the jacket.

Function:
A - White - Right rear +
B - Green - Left rear +
C - Yellow - Right front +
D - Blue - Left front +
E - Black - All negatives (common ground)
F - Orange - remote turn on lead (amp, etc)

Now that's you read the prelude, let's begin:
Step 1: This illustrates the end we'll be cutting near. Take the wire at this end and cut in 2 about 10 inches from the end.


Step 2: Strip the wire back about 1.5-2 inches, exposing the 2 leads inside.


Step 3: Strip all the wires back about 1/2 inch. The pure copper wire you see here is the floating ground between the amp chassis and the head unit chassis. It's wrapped around the wires inside the grey jacket. you need this. Be careful if you are going to strip the grey wire back.


Step 4: Fasten a crimp-connector on the end of each wire. Place to the side.


Step 5: Go to the other wire and strip it back about 2 inches, and then strip 1/2" off each wire, except the ORANGE cable, take off about 3/4". This is to make step 6 easier.


Step 6: Twist a 12" length of wire onto the ORANGE cable.


Step 7: Crimp all ends to the corresponding colors on the other part of the wire.


Step 8: Note the Copper jacket that surrounded the grey interior cable is now wrapped (in red electrical tape).


Step 9: Wrap everything up, leaving the tail you twisted into the orange in step 6 hanging out (which is now your remote lead)


Step 10: If you're attaching to an amp that requires 12volt trigger (most aftermarket devices), purchase a low volage trigger. If your aftermarket unit requires LVT, you will not need this. The power that comes off the lead you spliced in is only 6v, not sufficient to trigger an aftermarket amp. This unit converts the 6v to 12v. It can be found here for $14.


Now you're all done!