|
![]() |
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 66
![]() |
big system = things breaking?
is it true that if you have a 1200+ watt sound system that it can hurt parts of the engine and other components around the bay? I just now got alot of new parts and was curious if my system can do any damage?
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Hammer Time!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PROTECTING
Vehicle: THIS HOUSE!!
Posts: 17,501
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you plan on turning the system on, you may end up shaking out your headlights. Especially if they were bought on e-bay. Also, your tie-rods may end up bending due to SPL, and then you'll need to replace the u-joint fluid.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) | ||
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pikesville/Baltimore, MD
Vehicle: 08 IS350
Posts: 2,545
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) | |
|
n00b hater
|
Quote:
That was funny.
__________________
October 2008 COTM Customized TYC's - From SC-Customs! Website: Sport Compact Customs |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
"S" Car...Gooooooo
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Calgary
Vehicle: 03 GT-T
Posts: 1,176
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've been running my 4800W system in my 3g for about a year now, and there doesn't seem to be any abnormal wear and tear on the vehicle itself other than a couple new rattles in the interior panels; which is fixed with sound mat and new clips. Definitely upgrade the battery and main power though.
![]() GL |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) | |
|
Shocker Lite
|
I have been running ~3600w rms (give or take 200w depending on what setup I had in there) in my 3g for over 2 years, nothing broken. Proper sound deadening should take care of any rattles you may have.
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) | |
|
Hammer Time!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PROTECTING
Vehicle: THIS HOUSE!!
Posts: 17,501
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 (permalink) | |
|
BMSMA
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Naples, FL
Vehicle: IS250
Posts: 14,542
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Moving to audio.
__________________
DJUniverse: "Fear the Vermis" Quote:
|)__) -"-"- O RLY? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 (permalink) | |
|
"S" Car...Gooooooo
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Calgary
Vehicle: 03 GT-T
Posts: 1,176
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#19 (permalink) |
|
Hammer Time!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PROTECTING
Vehicle: THIS HOUSE!!
Posts: 17,501
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry for the threadjack, but it appears OP isn't interested in the responses.
Ken and Mitsuclipse: Got pics of your installs? Interested in seeing how you've got thing set up. Ken, you mentioned that you were going to email them to me, but I do realise you're hella busy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#20 (permalink) | |
|
Sehnsucht
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clarksville, TN
Vehicle: 2004 350Z
Posts: 8,334
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
obviously the OP know nothing at all about cars
__________________
from another website Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#21 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 2,946
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I cracked my dash with 2-1500w rms digital alpine amps powering two pioneer premier SPL 3000w subs. Also cracked my tail light and a couple bulbs, mirror fell off, killed three batterys then called it quites and sold the system.
Last edited by 2000RS-Turbo; 11/10/2009 at 01:04 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#23 (permalink) |
|
def jukie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: sacramento, california
Vehicle: '00 eclipse gs
Posts: 186
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
lite shaking of the rear view really?? at 400rms on my idq my mirror goes f'n nuts listening to dubstep or drum n bass. i really need to upgrade tho cause 400 just isn't enough for 200rms to each door lol
|
|
|
|
|
|
#24 (permalink) | |
|
"S" Car...Gooooooo
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Calgary
Vehicle: 03 GT-T
Posts: 1,176
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#25 (permalink) |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Yukon Canada
Vehicle: 2000 GT semi auto
Posts: 14
![]() |
just wondering who has upgraded their alternators and maybe what they've gone with, using a quick power formula, our 85A alternator can only push 1226watts max (85A*14.4V) and well, that doesn't take into account what the engine requires, vehicles electronics head unit, etc..
point being, any of these 1000w + systems... where did you find your uber alternators? |
|
|
|
|
|
#27 (permalink) | ||
|
"S" Car...Gooooooo
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Calgary
Vehicle: 03 GT-T
Posts: 1,176
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
http://www.club3g.com/forum/members-...ses-03-gt.html Quote:
Your math above is quite sound (sorry). One must however consider the efficiency of the specific amp being used (class a/b, class D) and its "average current drawn". Defined by Pioneer as: • The average current drawn is nearly the maximum current drawn by this unit when an audio signal is input. Use this value when working out total current drawn by multiple power amplifiers, instead of the maximum calculated amps using ohms law. As an example, using ohm's law, each of my amps would require 83.3A for a total of 333A , but using their "average" found in the manuals of only 28A each, there is a effective draw of only 112A.Plus a HUGE A$$ capacitor always helps! |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#29 (permalink) |
|
Shocker Lite
|
Suggested Reading -> All about capacitorsLong story short, capacitors = waste of cash. Take the money that you would have spent on a capacitor and put it toward a second battery, preferribly something geared toward car audio like Kinetik, Powermaster, or Batcap batteries. |
|
|
|
|
|
#30 (permalink) | |
|
Shocker Lite
|
Quote:
Mine is from Mechman, which IMO is the best out there. Two other companies off the top of my head are Excessive Amperage and Iraggi. 2 years ago I bought an EA, it burnt out in 3 months, EA replaced it for free, then the replacement burnt out in under a month, EA replaced it again and then I sold it. I'm not saying that they're a bad brand or anything like that, I'm just stating my experience with them. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#31 (permalink) |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Yukon Canada
Vehicle: 2000 GT semi auto
Posts: 14
![]() |
ken, how many amps are you running now, out of curiousity... i was thinking upgrading maybe to ~250A... i've got a touchscreen nav and a kicker zx1500.1 pushing two re audio sx12 (under rated at 1000rms each) and well.. i wanna leave room for expansion (better components, maybe a bigger amp) and i recon the HIDs pull more amperage than the factory headlights etc...
|
|
|
|
|
|
#32 (permalink) | |
|
Shocker Lite
|
Quote:
I'm running two Sundown saz-1500d's and a Sundown saz-100.4 which comes out to roughly 3600w rms. I recommend following this upgrade path: 1.) Upgrade big 3 & underhood battery 2.) Big Rear Battery (Kinetik HC2400 or equivalent) 3.) Alternator Upgrade Keep an eye on your voltage once you have a rear battery installed. If it doesn't drop below ~13.7 on a long hard hit then you're fine. If it does, add additional batteries & an upgraded alternator.. |
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |