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Old 11/09/2009, 01:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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big system = things breaking?

is it true that if you have a 1200+ watt sound system that it can hurt parts of the engine and other components around the bay? I just now got alot of new parts and was curious if my system can do any damage?
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Old 11/09/2009, 01:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you plan on turning the system on, you may end up shaking out your headlights. Especially if they were bought on e-bay. Also, your tie-rods may end up bending due to SPL, and then you'll need to replace the u-joint fluid.
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Old 11/09/2009, 01:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you plan on turning the system on, you may end up shaking out your headlights. Especially if they were bought on e-bay. Also, your tie-rods may end up bending due to SPL, and then you'll need to replace the u-joint fluid.
Haha. +1

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You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to jaloosk again.
To the OP. On a serious note, maybe an alternator, but that's all I can imagine going. But definitely upgrade the big 3.
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Old 11/09/2009, 01:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Haha. +1



To the OP. On a serious note, maybe an alternator, but that's all I can imagine going. But definitely upgrade the big 3.
and the battery.
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Old 11/09/2009, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jaloosk View Post
If you plan on turning the system on, you may end up shaking out your headlights. Especially if they were bought on e-bay. Also, your tie-rods may end up bending due to SPL, and then you'll need to replace the u-joint fluid.
That was funny.
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Old 11/09/2009, 01:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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it can probably do some damage to your ears too
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Old 11/09/2009, 02:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've been running my 4800W system in my 3g for about a year now, and there doesn't seem to be any abnormal wear and tear on the vehicle itself other than a couple new rattles in the interior panels; which is fixed with sound mat and new clips. Definitely upgrade the battery and main power though.

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Old 11/09/2009, 02:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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it can probably do some damage to your ears too
all he needs are those...


BTW, he is doing it wrong
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Old 11/09/2009, 02:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have been running ~3600w rms (give or take 200w depending on what setup I had in there) in my 3g for over 2 years, nothing broken. Proper sound deadening should take care of any rattles you may have.



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I've been running my 4800W system in my 3g for about a year now, and there doesn't seem to be any abnormal wear and tear on the vehicle itself other than a couple new rattles in the interior panels; which is fixed with sound mat and new clips. Definitely upgrade the battery and main power though.

GL
Off topic but I would like to see your setup. What equipment are you running? Ever go to any USACi events?
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Old 11/09/2009, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 11/09/2009, 02:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have been running ~3600w rms (give or take 200w depending on what setup I had in there) in my 3g for over 2 years, nothing broken. Proper sound deadening should take care of any rattles you may have.





Off topic but I would like to see your setup. What equipment are you running? Ever go to any USACi events?
Hey Ken, you still owe me some pics
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Old 11/09/2009, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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all he needs are those...


BTW, he is doing it wrong
no, that is a chin protector.
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Old 11/09/2009, 04:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey Ken, you still owe me some pics

Pics of what? Must have slipped my mind, sorry!

I have been working like crazy trying to get this house ready to sell. I already have a buyer lined up, so I'm hurrying to get it done asap and lots of little stuff has been getting pushed to the side.
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Old 11/09/2009, 06:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Your rear view mirror will become limp and disorientated.
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Old 11/09/2009, 06:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 11/09/2009, 06:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Moving to audio.
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Old 11/09/2009, 07:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Your rear view mirror will become limp and disorientated.
that just tickled my funny bone.
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Old 11/10/2009, 08:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken View Post
I have been running ~3600w rms (give or take 200w depending on what setup I had in there) in my 3g for over 2 years, nothing broken. Proper sound deadening should take care of any rattles you may have.





Off topic but I would like to see your setup. What equipment are you running? Ever go to any USACi events?
Definitely not hijacking the thread or anything, but in response to this query; two 10" pioneer premier championship pro subs, premier 6x9 in the rear, 6 3/4 components in the front, 4 premier class d amps (2 sub, 1 front 1 rear), an Audio Control epicenter, and and Audio Control DQXS with DDC. It's still a work in progress though. Sounds good, but the presentation isn't quite where I want it yet. Haven't been to any events yet. There aren't many up my way, and I'm too busy working to travel far right now.
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Old 11/10/2009, 09:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Sorry for the threadjack, but it appears OP isn't interested in the responses.

Ken and Mitsuclipse: Got pics of your installs? Interested in seeing how you've got thing set up. Ken, you mentioned that you were going to email them to me, but I do realise you're hella busy.
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Old 11/10/2009, 12:39 PM   #20 (permalink)
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obviously the OP know nothing at all about cars
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Hey what's up guys...quick question. I know its 2 quarts of oil for the rear diff when replacing fluid but thats conventional oil. Since I'm putting synthetic, it may require more. I couldnt find any info on this so I would like to know what the amount of quarts with synthetic would be for the rear diff. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11/10/2009, 12:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I cracked my dash with 2-1500w rms digital alpine amps powering two pioneer premier SPL 3000w subs. Also cracked my tail light and a couple bulbs, mirror fell off, killed three batterys then called it quites and sold the system.

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Old 11/10/2009, 01:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i used to run about 1500 watts rms and the only thing i had was minor rattling if any at all and light shaking of my rear view mirror
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Old 11/11/2009, 03:27 PM   #23 (permalink)
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i used to run about 1500 watts rms and the only thing i had was minor rattling if any at all and light shaking of my rear view mirror
lite shaking of the rear view really?? at 400rms on my idq my mirror goes f'n nuts listening to dubstep or drum n bass. i really need to upgrade tho cause 400 just isn't enough for 200rms to each door lol
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Old 11/12/2009, 09:05 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Sorry for the threadjack, but it appears OP isn't interested in the responses.

Ken and Mitsuclipse: Got pics of your installs? Interested in seeing how you've got thing set up. Ken, you mentioned that you were going to email them to me, but I do realise you're hella busy.
Sure, I'll try to post some in the next couple days. Keep in mind it's nowhere near finished yet though
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Old 11/15/2009, 05:40 PM   #25 (permalink)
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just wondering who has upgraded their alternators and maybe what they've gone with, using a quick power formula, our 85A alternator can only push 1226watts max (85A*14.4V) and well, that doesn't take into account what the engine requires, vehicles electronics head unit, etc..
point being, any of these 1000w + systems... where did you find your uber alternators?
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Old 11/15/2009, 05:45 PM   #26 (permalink)
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the chryslers have i think a 95A alt
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Old 11/16/2009, 10:31 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jaloosk View Post
Sorry for the threadjack, but it appears OP isn't interested in the responses.

Ken and Mitsuclipse: Got pics of your installs? Interested in seeing how you've got thing set up. Ken, you mentioned that you were going to email them to me, but I do realise you're hella busy.
Check them out here

http://www.club3g.com/forum/members-...ses-03-gt.html

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just wondering who has upgraded their alternators and maybe what they've gone with, using a quick power formula, our 85A alternator can only push 1226watts max (85A*14.4V) and well, that doesn't take into account what the engine requires, vehicles electronics head unit, etc..
point being, any of these 1000w + systems... where did you find your uber alternators?
I have tested the alternator in my car to 120A, so maybe mine was already upgraded. That being said though, if you don't want to try to find a different alternator to stuff into your car, you can get most "re-wound" at a place that overhauls alternators. I got my puny 55A one in my truck done to 125A, for only $150CAD.

Your math above is quite sound (sorry). One must however consider the efficiency of the specific amp being used (class a/b, class D) and its "average current drawn". Defined by Pioneer as:

• The average current drawn is nearly the maximum current drawn by this unit when an audio signal is input. Use this value when working out total current drawn by multiple power amplifiers,

instead of the maximum calculated amps using ohms law. As an example, using ohm's law, each of my amps would require 83.3A for a total of 333A , but using their "average" found in the manuals of only 28A each, there is a effective draw of only 112A.

Plus a HUGE A$$ capacitor always helps!
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Old 11/16/2009, 11:43 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Plus a HUGE A$$ capacitor always helps!
...until you run out of charge in the cap. Then you're right back where you started from. Caps give you a false sense of security, and are not worth the trouble.
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Old 11/16/2009, 07:30 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MitsuClipse View Post
Plus a HUGE A$$ capacitor always helps!

Suggested Reading -> All about capacitors


Long story short, capacitors = waste of cash. Take the money that you would have spent on a capacitor and put it toward a second battery, preferribly something geared toward car audio like Kinetik, Powermaster, or Batcap batteries.
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Old 11/16/2009, 07:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Geordo View Post
just wondering who has upgraded their alternators and maybe what they've gone with, using a quick power formula, our 85A alternator can only push 1226watts max (85A*14.4V) and well, that doesn't take into account what the engine requires, vehicles electronics head unit, etc..
point being, any of these 1000w + systems... where did you find your uber alternators?


Mine is from Mechman, which IMO is the best out there. Two other companies off the top of my head are Excessive Amperage and Iraggi.

2 years ago I bought an EA, it burnt out in 3 months, EA replaced it for free, then the replacement burnt out in under a month, EA replaced it again and then I sold it. I'm not saying that they're a bad brand or anything like that, I'm just stating my experience with them.
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Old 11/16/2009, 08:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ken, how many amps are you running now, out of curiousity... i was thinking upgrading maybe to ~250A... i've got a touchscreen nav and a kicker zx1500.1 pushing two re audio sx12 (under rated at 1000rms each) and well.. i wanna leave room for expansion (better components, maybe a bigger amp) and i recon the HIDs pull more amperage than the factory headlights etc...
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Old 11/16/2009, 11:31 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Geordo View Post
ken, how many amps are you running now, out of curiousity... i was thinking upgrading maybe to ~250A... i've got a touchscreen nav and a kicker zx1500.1 pushing two re audio sx12 (under rated at 1000rms each) and well.. i wanna leave room for expansion (better components, maybe a bigger amp) and i recon the HIDs pull more amperage than the factory headlights etc...



I'm running two Sundown saz-1500d's and a Sundown saz-100.4 which comes out to roughly 3600w rms.

I recommend following this upgrade path:

1.) Upgrade big 3 & underhood battery
2.) Big Rear Battery (Kinetik HC2400 or equivalent)
3.) Alternator Upgrade

Keep an eye on your voltage once you have a rear battery installed. If it doesn't drop below ~13.7 on a long hard hit then you're fine. If it does, add additional batteries & an upgraded alternator..
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