A Few Alarm Questions - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums

El Guapo · 06/28/2011, 07:08 PM

I am going to be installing my Remote Start/Alarm System. (Autopage 915)

I am wondering if I need to do anything to bypass the factory alarm?
Also wondering what is a good place to put the Valet Switch on the Eclipse?

And are these wire colors for an 2005 correct?
2000-2006 Eclipse wiring diagrams

SvenHoek · 06/28/2011, 07:57 PM

Those wire diagrams seem to be fine as far as I can remember. If your car has teh factory security, I would recommend using ONLY the "arm" and "disarm" wires on the vehicle hooked up to your lock/unlock on the DEI this way the doors will lock/unlock as well as arm/disarm the factory system all without having to worry about the pulse timings. Or else hook up the arm to arm, disarm to disarm, lock to lock, and unlock to unlock. This will however sometimes do strange things with the priority unlock timing. No matter what, though, remember to get a transponder bypass for the chip key (unless it's been disable in the ECU). GL.

El Guapo · 06/28/2011, 08:03 PM

Thanks for the fast reply.
I don't have the Key Fob to the factory remote cause the dealership didn't have one when I bought the car. So I can unlock and lock the car fine because it's disarmed. I already have the Transponder bypass module. Will it still do "weird things" (can you please go into depth about that?) Even though the factory alarm is disabled?

fliegendaffe · 06/28/2011, 11:12 PM

mark sure to hook up the factory disarm and factory arm wires and you will be fine`

SvenHoek · 06/28/2011, 11:24 PM

^^^^this.

Those are the most important to ensure that the factory alarm will arm when you lock with the remote, and disarm when you unlock with the remote (DEI).

Even without the factory fob, if you lock the doors using the inside door switch, you are arming the factory system. When you unlock it with the key in the door cylinder (as long as the "sensor" inside isn't broken) you are disarming it. Under normal circumstances, this all happens seamlessly and without much to-do.

If you use only the "arm" and "disarm" wires on the cars' ETACS (according to the diagrams) with the DEI's "lock" and "unlock" outputs, not only does this functionality remain entirely intact and transparent to you as a user, but the lock and unlock functions on the vehicle will operate as if you were using a factory fob!

Note: you MAY need to program double pulse unlock - depends on the specific DEI unit and whether or not your car had priority unlock enabled to begin with.

Good luck with the install.

El Guapo · 06/29/2011, 01:58 AM

@Fliegendaffe - so just hook to the factory arm/lock and disarm/unlock?

@Svenhoek - I don't mind it arming when I press the lock switch from the inside, I hardly/Never ever do it. I have the DEI 556UW transponder bypass module.
What you mean by Double Pulse Unlock?

And thanks for all your help fellas. eRep! (If I don't have to spread around)

EDIT: what is the DBI slot for? It shows it on the wiring diagram next to the LED Indicator ( far right )

fliegendaffe · 06/29/2011, 07:17 AM

Hook up every wire, arm to arm, disarm to disarm, unlock to unlock, lock to lock, etc.

Double pulse means it sends 2 unlock signals in short succession. Toyotas always needs this but some other vehicles need it as well. The reason you might need this is if when you hit the unlock button on your key fob it only unlocks the driver door, hence priority unlock (a "security" feature from the factory).

Make sure you have a second key for the 556u, you will have to place it in there.

The dbi slot is a data port. It is more than likely a slot for the brain to talk to a bypass via data instead of wire to wire. You don't have to worry about that slot.

El Guapo · 06/29/2011, 01:19 PM

Ahh okay gotcha.
Alright I don't think I'd want the double pulse anyways. So if I click unlock twice it'll unlock both doors?

And yes, I have a Key with the chip to stick it in there. The problem is I only have one key. What I was thinking of doing was making a spare(with no chip) and just keep my key with a chip into the transponder and use the spare just to open doors(if my remote dies) and use it to turn the ignition when I use the remote start.

Speaking of my remote battery dying, if it dies, I have to use the valet switch to disarm it, so what is a good place to put the Valet switch in an eclipse? Cause I don't want someone to break into my car then just press the valet switch.

fliegendaffe · 06/29/2011, 01:32 PM

1) both keys will needthe chip
2) place the button in the fuse box or by the hood release.

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El Guapo · 06/29/2011, 01:38 PM

Ohhh reallly? ...damn.
The fuse box is probably the spot.

EDIT: Also what is a good constant 12V power source? That is under the driver side steering column

SvenHoek · 06/29/2011, 04:38 PM

Unless you wire up the 556U with your one chip key in it, to activate anytime that the ignition is turned on (thus circumventing the key security) you MUST have at last two chipped keys. One for the bypass (556U) and one to start the car. The door lock is irrelevant at this particular point in time.

IDEALLY, you run battery power straight from the battery, but usually if you get a VERY SOLID connection on the 12V wire at the ignition harness under the steering column you should be fine; it's just not quite as secure or tamper-proof.

El Guapo · 06/29/2011, 04:50 PM

and how would i go about that?

and i heard that it isn't good to run the alarm straight to the battery cause it just screams "alarm!". Are you saying i should ire it in with all the other wire or what?

SvenHoek · 06/29/2011, 08:04 PM

Well yes, and know. Truth be known, if someone wants into your ride, no alarm is going to keep it from happening. Most of the deterrent is actually from it being noticeably alarmed with LED's etc anyway. The less than professional thief will usually just keep looking for a car without a system, unless of course there's some reason they want yours specifically. If you'd rather just tap your power feed from the ignition harness under the steering column, that's fine. In fact it's where most installers do go anyway because it's faster and cheaper than running 10ga up to the front.

The reason for running power straight from up front is two-fold.

1) Less chance of voltage variations supplied to the alarm module (if the proper gauge wire is used, fused of course). This helps to eliminate a the potential of the alarm not "seeing" what's going on properly, which based entirely on varying voltage signals.

2) When routing the power wire up to the front, it is usually much easier to conceal where it is going to/coming from. This helps with slowing down the would be thief if they decide to just cut power to the alarm system only (also where sirens with back-up batteries come in handy).

If you want to completely circumvent the transponder chip key without flashing the ROM to disable it by using the 556U, then here's the best way to go about it:

On the 556U there is the three wire harness with the ring; install as per regular instructions. There is also the six pin harness. On this one, connect both the black and the blue wire to ground on the car. Then instead of connecting the red to 12V constant, connect the red wire on the 556U to the ignition wire on the car.

What this does is turns on the bypass box coils every time it sees the ignition switch in the car turned on. So basically, if the key cylinder turns, then the cars sees the transponder key that's installed in the box.
NOTE: If you do this, DO NOT, EVER, use a chipped key in the ignition to start the vehicle again. The ECU will likely see a transponder conflict (two keys at the same time) and not run for you. Use only the generic or non-coded keys from that point on.

El Guapo · 06/29/2011, 09:25 PM

Once again, Thanks a bunch!
On the 3 pin harness I just wrap it around ignition? And that's it?

So I just found a Relay in the box and connects to a 5 pin harness with 4 wires ( yellow,white,red and violet) I don't see anywhere in the manual about these wires. It looks like for the headlights but just wanna be sure. Can take pics if needed.

On the wires that I don't use (I.e. Second starter output, diesel wait to start input,ignition 3 control output, trunk output, etc.) Just leave them alone?

SvenHoek · 06/29/2011, 11:46 PM

You should be able to leave those alone. Correct.

The extral relay is very often used as a starter kill device.

El Guapo · 07/01/2011, 10:18 PM

I have a few more questions:
1)what is the (brown wire) ACC/Heater (+) output for? do i need it?
2) do i ground all the wires that say ground?
i.e. Ground Output while running, Ground Output while armed, Ground output when disarmed
3)I CANNOT FIND THESE WIRES IN THE MANUAL! i never seen them before. i just found them.

here are pics: wire colors are white,red,Violet, and Yellow and theres a resistor(?) that goes from Red to White wire. anyone tell what it is for?

Relay plugs into connector.

What relay says on it:

Thanks in advance

quick92rs · 07/02/2011, 07:02 AM

Just look at the post I made in the wiring diagrams thread. It has everything labeled for you. It's DEI's directwire printout for the eclipse. Match wires up. The only thing that goes to chassis ground is the black system main ground. Ground while running etc. you don't need to hook to anything. Unless you have a ground while start that needs to go to the 556u. Not sure if you have a status wire on that or not. Usually a blue wire on DEI systems.

soundman98 · 07/02/2011, 10:17 AM

i used to have a rs-1000. just flip to the middle of the manual that describes what each wire does-- on the 1000, those grounds needed to be connected to activate that specific feature.

as for the relay-- that little black peice is a diode. it will only allow power to flow one way across it.

i was hoping someone else would chime in about how to connect it-- it has been a long time since my last alarm install... i believe i used that on remote start portion, and had to buy 2 more for the door locks, but it has been at least 3 years and 2 alarm systems since installing the relays...

fliegendaffe · 07/02/2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Guapo

I have a few more questions:
1)what is the (brown wire) ACC/Heater (+) output for? do i need it?
2) do i ground all the wires that say ground?
i.e. Ground Output while running, Ground Output while armed, Ground output when disarmed
3)I CANNOT FIND THESE WIRES IN THE MANUAL! i never seen them before. i just found them.

here are pics: wire colors are white,red,Violet, and Yellow and theres a resistor(?) that goes from Red to White wire. anyone tell what it is for?

Relay plugs into connector.

What relay says on it:

Thanks in advance

The grounds say OUTPUT. Thus mean it would be sending a ground from the brain. Don't worry about those.

Sent from my DROIDX

El Guapo · 07/02/2011, 12:56 PM

-So what is the brown ACC/Heater wire for?
- and I don't connect the output ground to anything?
- I looked throught the whole manual, nothing about these wires.

fliegendaffe · 07/02/2011, 01:13 PM

Your defroster

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El Guapo · 07/02/2011, 01:16 PM

Thanks I prolly won't even hook it up cause here in arizona ibecause all I have to worry about is 120 degrees. Lol

SvenHoek · 07/02/2011, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliegendaffe

Your defroster

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Quote:

Originally Posted by El Guapo

Thanks I prolly won't even hook it up cause here in arizona ibecause all I have to worry about is 120 degrees. Lol

Sorry, that is not correct. The "Acc Out" wire on the module is just that an accessory output. The purpose of this wire is to supply power to the accessory circuit in the car when under remote start. You MUST connect this wire to the accessory wire in the main ignition harness under the steering column. If you don't, then your heater/air conditioning controls will not come on at the appropriate time.

As I stated before, the additional relay is for "starter kill". It is ntended to be installed in- line withthe cars starter wire( in ignition harness). This is used to disable the starter circuit if the alarm is triggered, as well as while the vehicle s remote started so that I you turn the key too far for take over, you will not re- engage the starter and grind it.

SvenHoek · 07/02/2011, 06:12 PM

If you want to wire in the relay as for the above purpose, here's how it's done.

Trace the wires to the pins on the relay( because I can't see exactly which ones go where by your picture).

Cut starter wire in ignition harness, then :
Pin 30 (vertical wire by itself)- starter wire (switch side)
Pin 87a (middle wire) - starter wire (car side)
Pin 85 - ground when armed (gwa)
Pin 86 - ignition

SvenHoek · 07/02/2011, 06:18 PM

Oh yeah I forgot. The diode o. The relay is called a spike suppression diode. It keeps a voyage spike from wrecking things in your car when the relay turns OFF. If hooked up properly, the + side of the circuit is connected the the relay pin which has the little "bar" end of the diode on it, while the - (ground) side of the circuit should be hooked to the relay pin without the "bar".

SO. In the above case, you would hook up ignition to the RED to ignition, WHITE to ground when armed, BLUE to Starter (car side), and YELLOW to Starter (switch side).

Keep in mind though, that if you do put this in, which IS a good idea, be sure to hook the "starter output" of the module after this relay. ie switch-relay wires-car side. The easiest way to do this is to splice the "30" pin wire (blue) and the starter output wire together, then connect the resulting single wire to the car.

The ground while running is usually used to activate the bypass system being used like your 556U. However as you thought that you might just wire that using the alternate instructions, you don't need it.

fliegendaffe · 07/02/2011, 06:19 PM

It actually all depends what harness that wire is in. If the acc/heat wire is in the primary harness with the ign and 12v wires then yes it goes to the acc wire in the ign harness from the key cylinder

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El Guapo · 07/03/2011, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SvenHoek

Sorry, that is not correct. The "Acc Out" wire on the module is just that an accessory output. The purpose of this wire is to supply power to the accessory circuit in the car when under remote start. You MUST connect this wire to the accessory wire in the main ignition harness under the steering column. If you don't, then your heater/air conditioning controls will not come on at the appropriate time.

As I stated before, the additional relay is for "starter kill". It is ntended to be installed in- line withthe cars starter wire( in ignition harness). This is used to disable the starter circuit if the alarm is triggered, as well as while the vehicle s remote started so that I you turn the key too far for take over, you will not re- engage the starter and grind it.

you saved my ass on ACC out wire. thanks.
sweet, thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by SvenHoek

If you want to wire in the relay as for the above purpose, here's how it's done.

Trace the wires to the pins on the relay( because I can't see exactly which ones go where by your picture).

Cut starter wire in ignition harness, then :
Pin 30 (vertical wire by itself)- starter wire (switch side)
Pin 87a (middle wire) - starter wire (car side)
Pin 85 - ground when armed (gwa)
Pin 86 - ignition

those are the colors of which goto which Pin #

Quote:

Originally Posted by SvenHoek

Oh yeah I forgot. The diode o. The relay is called a spike suppression diode. It keeps a voyage spike from wrecking things in your car when the relay turns OFF. If hooked up properly, the + side of the circuit is connected the the relay pin which has the little "bar" end of the diode on it, while the - (ground) side of the circuit should be hooked to the relay pin without the "bar".

SO. In the above case, you would hook up ignition to the RED to ignition, WHITE to ground when armed, BLUE(YOU MEAN VIOLET?) to Starter (car side), and YELLOW to Starter (switch side).

Keep in mind though, that if you do put this in, which IS a good idea, be sure to hook the "starter output" of the module after this relay. ie switch-relay wires-car side. The easiest way to do this is to splice the "30" pin wire (blue) and the starter output wire together, then connect the resulting single wire to the car.

The ground while running is usually used to activate the bypass system being used like your 556U. However as you thought that you might just wire that using the alternate instructions, you don't need it.

What you mean when you say car side???
so hook up and solder the 30 pin (Violet) and starter output wire together then connect/Solder them to????(what you mean by car?)

so leave the 'Ground while running' alone since i am going to bypass the "key security".

El Guapo · 07/04/2011, 03:55 PM

Where can I mount the brain?

fliegendaffe · 07/04/2011, 03:58 PM

Best recommendation is high up inside the dash secured to a thick harness or something else very solid in the dash.

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El Guapo · 07/04/2011, 04:00 PM

I cannot seem to find a spot anywhere. The factory loom is everywhere

fliegendaffe · 07/04/2011, 04:03 PM

Find a thick loom fairly high up and attach it to that. If it feels solid and doesn't move too much, you'll be fine.

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El Guapo · 07/04/2011, 04:04 PM

Okay thanks. Just ZipTie it to it?

fliegendaffe · 07/04/2011, 05:12 PM

Yea

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SvenHoek · 07/05/2011, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Guapo

you saved my ass on ACC out wire. thanks.
sweet, thanks

those are the colors of which goto which Pin #

What you mean when you say car side???
so hook up and solder the 30 pin (Violet) and starter output wire together then connect/Solder them to????(what you mean by car?)

so leave the 'Ground while running' alone since i am going to bypass the "key security".

Ok. When you go to hook up the starter wire to the car, cut it. One end of the now cut wire will go to the the ignition switch (switch side), the other cut end will go further into the harness towards the starter relay (car side).

Correct, for YOUR application, ignore the ground when running wire.

El Guapo · 07/05/2011, 01:56 AM

What yu mean by switch side and car side?

Is it safe to bypass and attach wires that aren't meant to be attactched (I.e.transponder bypass)
Like nothing will be affected?

fliegendaffe · 07/05/2011, 11:42 AM

Car side is the wire going to the starter. Switch or key side is the wire coming from the key cylinder.

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El Guapo · 07/05/2011, 04:09 PM

ok thanks and Is it safe to bypass and attach wires that aren't meant to be attactched (I.e.transponder bypass so i only need 1 chipped key)
Like nothing will be affected? and has anyone done this before

fliegendaffe · 07/05/2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Guapo

ok thanks and Is it safe to bypass and attach wires that aren't meant to be attactched (I.e.transponder bypass so i only need 1 chipped key)
Like nothing will be affected? and has anyone done this before

In the case of the 556u you could but not recommend. All you would do is attach the blue wire from the 556u to the red of the 556u. It will then be on 24/7. Or wire it normally and add a toggle switch linking the blue and red wires. That way it is only on when you remote start your vehicle or when you physically start it.

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El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliegendaffe

In the case of the 556u you could but not recommend. All you would do is attach the blue wire from the 556u to the red of the 556u. It will then be on 24/7. Or wire it normally and add a toggle switch linking the blue and red wires. That way it is only on when you remote start your vehicle or when you physically start it.

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if it would be on 24/7 then it would drain my battery correct?

what kind of toggle switch would i need?
like one of these?: Toggle Switch with On/Off Label Plate - RadioShack.com

fliegendaffe · 07/06/2011, 01:00 AM

It would be a small drain.

But that toggle would be perfect.

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El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 01:06 AM

So if the toggle is On then it would be on 24/7 and Off would mean with Remote start/manual start right?

fliegendaffe · 07/06/2011, 01:15 AM

You would have to turn it on to start it manually.

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El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 01:19 AM

And off is for 24/7 or remotestart?

fliegendaffe · 07/06/2011, 10:49 AM

off = remote start
on = 24/7 and manual start

El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 01:12 PM

Red will be connected to the on side correct?

fliegendaffe · 07/06/2011, 01:16 PM

What red? On the 556u? The red will need to be connected to a 12v.

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El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 01:24 PM

To link the blue and red wires. Yu said that in post #38

fliegendaffe · 07/06/2011, 01:49 PM

on the 556uw, there should be a red, black, blue, green, pink, and I believe a purple wire. You do not use the pink, green, purple. Only the red, black, blue. If you are going to use the switch do the following:

Red to 12v source (thick red wire on the alarm brain)
Blue to the pink wire (programable output) on the brain (make sure to program it to sensor by-pass output)
Black to ground

If you are going to use the switch, attach one half of the switch to the red, the other to the blue.

If you are not going to use a switch, then put the blue directly on the red and do not attach it to the pink on the brain.

El Guapo · 07/06/2011, 01:53 PM

Oh okay. Sorry I misunderstood you. But alright that's easy.

But how do I program it to besensoe bypass output?

JermTheElf · 08/09/2011, 11:07 AM

Why don't need to use the pink ignition wire from the 556u??

I'm installing this in the next few days

fliegendaffe · 08/09/2011, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JermTheElf

Why don't need to use the pink ignition wire from the 556u??

I'm installing this in the next few days

If you read the instructions, the pink, purple, green wires are not used in the installation. Only the Red, black, blue have connections that need to be made.

El Guapo · 07/31/2012, 03:14 PM

bump...
will this work with the Autopage RS915 Remote start alarm i have?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Up-Module.html

fliegendaffe · 07/31/2012, 03:36 PM

556u or 556uw are universal

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

El Guapo · 07/31/2012, 04:15 PM

so it'll work?

sorry it doesn't say 556u or 556uw anywhere?
edit:
are you thinking that is the Transponder interface module for the remote start? cause that is the Window Roll up Module for when i lock my car, it rolls up the windows

fliegendaffe · 07/31/2012, 05:48 PM

Yes it should

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06/28/2011, 07:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	A Few Alarm Questions I am going to be installing my Remote Start/Alarm System. (Autopage 915) I am wondering if I need to do anything to bypass the factory alarm? Also wondering what is a good place to put the Valet Switch on the Eclipse? And are these wire colors for an 2005 correct? 2000-2006 Eclipse wiring diagrams

06/28/2011, 11:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	mark sure to hook up the factory disarm and factory arm wires and you will be fine` __________________

06/29/2011, 01:58 AM	#6 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	@Fliegendaffe - so just hook to the factory arm/lock and disarm/unlock? @Svenhoek - I don't mind it arming when I press the lock switch from the inside, I hardly/Never ever do it. I have the DEI 556UW transponder bypass module. What you mean by Double Pulse Unlock? And thanks for all your help fellas. eRep! (If I don't have to spread around) EDIT: what is the DBI slot for? It shows it on the wiring diagram next to the LED Indicator ( far right ) Last edited by El Guapo; 06/29/2011 at 02:13 AM.

06/29/2011, 07:17 AM	#7 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Hook up every wire, arm to arm, disarm to disarm, unlock to unlock, lock to lock, etc. Double pulse means it sends 2 unlock signals in short succession. Toyotas always needs this but some other vehicles need it as well. The reason you might need this is if when you hit the unlock button on your key fob it only unlocks the driver door, hence priority unlock (a "security" feature from the factory). Make sure you have a second key for the 556u, you will have to place it in there. The dbi slot is a data port. It is more than likely a slot for the brain to talk to a bypass via data instead of wire to wire. You don't have to worry about that slot. __________________

06/29/2011, 01:32 PM	#9 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	1) both keys will needthe chip 2) place the button in the fuse box or by the hood release. Sent from my DROIDX __________________

06/28/2011, 07:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	Those wire diagrams seem to be fine as far as I can remember. If your car has teh factory security, I would recommend using ONLY the "arm" and "disarm" wires on the vehicle hooked up to your lock/unlock on the DEI this way the doors will lock/unlock as well as arm/disarm the factory system all without having to worry about the pulse timings. Or else hook up the arm to arm, disarm to disarm, lock to lock, and unlock to unlock. This will however sometimes do strange things with the priority unlock timing. No matter what, though, remember to get a transponder bypass for the chip key (unless it's been disable in the ECU). GL.

06/28/2011, 08:03 PM	#3 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Thanks for the fast reply. I don't have the Key Fob to the factory remote cause the dealership didn't have one when I bought the car. So I can unlock and lock the car fine because it's disarmed. I already have the Transponder bypass module. Will it still do "weird things" (can you please go into depth about that?) Even though the factory alarm is disabled?

06/28/2011, 11:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	^^^^this. Those are the most important to ensure that the factory alarm will arm when you lock with the remote, and disarm when you unlock with the remote (DEI). Even without the factory fob, if you lock the doors using the inside door switch, you are arming the factory system. When you unlock it with the key in the door cylinder (as long as the "sensor" inside isn't broken) you are disarming it. Under normal circumstances, this all happens seamlessly and without much to-do. If you use only the "arm" and "disarm" wires on the cars' ETACS (according to the diagrams) with the DEI's "lock" and "unlock" outputs, not only does this functionality remain entirely intact and transparent to you as a user, but the lock and unlock functions on the vehicle will operate as if you were using a factory fob! Note: you MAY need to program double pulse unlock - depends on the specific DEI unit and whether or not your car had priority unlock enabled to begin with. Good luck with the install.

06/29/2011, 01:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Ahh okay gotcha. Alright I don't think I'd want the double pulse anyways. So if I click unlock twice it'll unlock both doors? And yes, I have a Key with the chip to stick it in there. The problem is I only have one key. What I was thinking of doing was making a spare(with no chip) and just keep my key with a chip into the transponder and use the spare just to open doors(if my remote dies) and use it to turn the ignition when I use the remote start. Speaking of my remote battery dying, if it dies, I have to use the valet switch to disarm it, so what is a good place to put the Valet switch in an eclipse? Cause I don't want someone to break into my car then just press the valet switch.

06/29/2011, 01:38 PM	#10 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Ohhh reallly? ...damn. The fuse box is probably the spot. EDIT: Also what is a good constant 12V power source? That is under the driver side steering column Last edited by El Guapo; 06/29/2011 at 02:41 PM.

06/29/2011, 04:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	Unless you wire up the 556U with your one chip key in it, to activate anytime that the ignition is turned on (thus circumventing the key security) you MUST have at last two chipped keys. One for the bypass (556U) and one to start the car. The door lock is irrelevant at this particular point in time. IDEALLY, you run battery power straight from the battery, but usually if you get a VERY SOLID connection on the 12V wire at the ignition harness under the steering column you should be fine; it's just not quite as secure or tamper-proof.

06/29/2011, 04:50 PM	#12 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	and how would i go about that? and i heard that it isn't good to run the alarm straight to the battery cause it just screams "alarm!". Are you saying i should ire it in with all the other wire or what?

06/29/2011, 08:04 PM	#13 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	Well yes, and know. Truth be known, if someone wants into your ride, no alarm is going to keep it from happening. Most of the deterrent is actually from it being noticeably alarmed with LED's etc anyway. The less than professional thief will usually just keep looking for a car without a system, unless of course there's some reason they want yours specifically. If you'd rather just tap your power feed from the ignition harness under the steering column, that's fine. In fact it's where most installers do go anyway because it's faster and cheaper than running 10ga up to the front. The reason for running power straight from up front is two-fold. 1) Less chance of voltage variations supplied to the alarm module (if the proper gauge wire is used, fused of course). This helps to eliminate a the potential of the alarm not "seeing" what's going on properly, which based entirely on varying voltage signals. 2) When routing the power wire up to the front, it is usually much easier to conceal where it is going to/coming from. This helps with slowing down the would be thief if they decide to just cut power to the alarm system only (also where sirens with back-up batteries come in handy). If you want to completely circumvent the transponder chip key without flashing the ROM to disable it by using the 556U, then here's the best way to go about it: On the 556U there is the three wire harness with the ring; install as per regular instructions. There is also the six pin harness. On this one, connect both the black and the blue wire to ground on the car. Then instead of connecting the red to 12V constant, connect the red wire on the 556U to the ignition wire on the car. What this does is turns on the bypass box coils every time it sees the ignition switch in the car turned on. So basically, if the key cylinder turns, then the cars sees the transponder key that's installed in the box. NOTE: If you do this, DO NOT, EVER, use a chipped key in the ignition to start the vehicle again. The ECU will likely see a transponder conflict (two keys at the same time) and not run for you. Use only the generic or non-coded keys from that point on.

06/29/2011, 09:25 PM	#14 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Once again, Thanks a bunch! On the 3 pin harness I just wrap it around ignition? And that's it? So I just found a Relay in the box and connects to a 5 pin harness with 4 wires ( yellow,white,red and violet) I don't see anywhere in the manual about these wires. It looks like for the headlights but just wanna be sure. Can take pics if needed. On the wires that I don't use (I.e. Second starter output, diesel wait to start input,ignition 3 control output, trunk output, etc.) Just leave them alone?

06/29/2011, 11:46 PM	#15 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	You should be able to leave those alone. Correct. The extral relay is very often used as a starter kill device.

07/01/2011, 10:18 PM	#16 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	I have a few more questions: 1)what is the (brown wire) ACC/Heater (+) output for? do i need it? 2) do i ground all the wires that say ground? i.e. Ground Output while running, Ground Output while armed, Ground output when disarmed 3)I CANNOT FIND THESE WIRES IN THE MANUAL! i never seen them before. i just found them. here are pics: wire colors are white,red,Violet, and Yellow and theres a resistor(?) that goes from Red to White wire. anyone tell what it is for? Relay plugs into connector. What relay says on it: Thanks in advance

07/02/2011, 07:02 AM	#17 (permalink)
quick92rs Moved On Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Akron, OH Vehicle: Better Than a 3g Posts: 1,859	Just look at the post I made in the wiring diagrams thread. It has everything labeled for you. It's DEI's directwire printout for the eclipse. Match wires up. The only thing that goes to chassis ground is the black system main ground. Ground while running etc. you don't need to hook to anything. Unless you have a ground while start that needs to go to the 556u. Not sure if you have a status wire on that or not. Usually a blue wire on DEI systems.

07/02/2011, 10:17 AM	#18 (permalink)
soundman98 ... Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Northern IL/IN Vehicle: '01 Spyder GT Posts: 2,440	i used to have a rs-1000. just flip to the middle of the manual that describes what each wire does-- on the 1000, those grounds needed to be connected to activate that specific feature. as for the relay-- that little black peice is a diode. it will only allow power to flow one way across it. i was hoping someone else would chime in about how to connect it-- it has been a long time since my last alarm install... i believe i used that on remote start portion, and had to buy 2 more for the door locks, but it has been at least 3 years and 2 alarm systems since installing the relays... __________________ The never-ending project, my '01 Spyder GT more projects then time! when 'bright' reverse lights don't cut it exterior led upgrades--75% (led tails, turns, third brake, plate light, reverse light) interior led upgrades--10% (gauges and hvac next, dome light completed) whats next? ford raptor(for the lightbar!!)..

07/02/2011, 12:56 PM	#20 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	-So what is the brown ACC/Heater wire for? - and I don't connect the output ground to anything? - I looked throught the whole manual, nothing about these wires.

07/02/2011, 01:13 PM	#21 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Your defroster Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/02/2011, 01:16 PM	#22 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Thanks I prolly won't even hook it up cause here in arizona ibecause all I have to worry about is 120 degrees. Lol

07/02/2011, 06:12 PM	#24 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	If you want to wire in the relay as for the above purpose, here's how it's done. Trace the wires to the pins on the relay( because I can't see exactly which ones go where by your picture). Cut starter wire in ignition harness, then : Pin 30 (vertical wire by itself)- starter wire (switch side) Pin 87a (middle wire) - starter wire (car side) Pin 85 - ground when armed (gwa) Pin 86 - ignition

07/02/2011, 06:18 PM	#25 (permalink)
SvenHoek "S" Car...Gooooooo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Calgary Vehicle: 03 GT-T Posts: 1,173	Oh yeah I forgot. The diode o. The relay is called a spike suppression diode. It keeps a voyage spike from wrecking things in your car when the relay turns OFF. If hooked up properly, the + side of the circuit is connected the the relay pin which has the little "bar" end of the diode on it, while the - (ground) side of the circuit should be hooked to the relay pin without the "bar". SO. In the above case, you would hook up ignition to the RED to ignition, WHITE to ground when armed, BLUE to Starter (car side), and YELLOW to Starter (switch side). Keep in mind though, that if you do put this in, which IS a good idea, be sure to hook the "starter output" of the module after this relay. ie switch-relay wires-car side. The easiest way to do this is to splice the "30" pin wire (blue) and the starter output wire together, then connect the resulting single wire to the car. The ground while running is usually used to activate the bypass system being used like your 556U. However as you thought that you might just wire that using the alternate instructions, you don't need it.

07/02/2011, 06:19 PM	#26 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	It actually all depends what harness that wire is in. If the acc/heat wire is in the primary harness with the ign and 12v wires then yes it goes to the acc wire in the ign harness from the key cylinder Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/04/2011, 03:55 PM	#28 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Where can I mount the brain?

07/04/2011, 03:58 PM	#29 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Best recommendation is high up inside the dash secured to a thick harness or something else very solid in the dash. Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/04/2011, 04:00 PM	#30 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	I cannot seem to find a spot anywhere. The factory loom is everywhere

07/04/2011, 04:03 PM	#31 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Find a thick loom fairly high up and attach it to that. If it feels solid and doesn't move too much, you'll be fine. Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/04/2011, 04:04 PM	#32 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	Okay thanks. Just ZipTie it to it?

07/04/2011, 05:12 PM	#33 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Yea Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/05/2011, 01:56 AM	#35 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	What yu mean by switch side and car side? Is it safe to bypass and attach wires that aren't meant to be attactched (I.e.transponder bypass) Like nothing will be affected?

07/05/2011, 11:42 AM	#36 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	Car side is the wire going to the starter. Switch or key side is the wire coming from the key cylinder. Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/05/2011, 04:09 PM	#37 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	ok thanks and Is it safe to bypass and attach wires that aren't meant to be attactched (I.e.transponder bypass so i only need 1 chipped key) Like nothing will be affected? and has anyone done this before

07/06/2011, 01:00 AM	#40 (permalink)
fliegendaffe Smart Ass Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Camp Pendleton, CA Vehicle: 2013 Lancer ES 5sp Posts: 2,457	It would be a small drain. But that toggle would be perfect. Sent from my DROIDX __________________

07/06/2011, 01:06 AM	#41 (permalink)
El Guapo Suspended Seller Cocknozzle Join Date: May 2011 Location: Arizona Vehicle: 2000 Eclipse Posts: 911	So if the toggle is On then it would be on 24/7 and Off would mean with Remote start/manual start right?