Sub Setup Help? Eclipse Spyder Noob Here

[AbstraKt]

So I just got my 2001 Eclipse Spyder a few weeks ago and am looking to put a sub or two in it. I've been browsing around this site and google and have noticed a few people mentioning extra space in the trunk where the top goes down, as well as space under the back seats?

I have no clue what would be best for a subwoofer setup. Here's what I'm thinking of getting at the moment:

Sub: VIBE Audio Space V12-V1 - 12" Sub in a ported enclosure, dual 4 ohm
Amp: Hifonics HFi1500D - To output 1000W RMS at the Sub's 2 Ohm Final Impendance

Any advice or tips? I'd just like to get the loudest setup while keeping things hidden or locked so nothing gets jacked (I had an expensive setup stolen from my last car )

[soundman98]

there's not that much space there.. you might be lucky to fit 2-10's in a custom box below the top in the trunk, but that would be sealed only--.

a single ported 12 is going to need about 2cu ft of airspace, which is pretty much all of the trunk.


and the "best" audio setup is completely preference--every audio device has different characteristics. just ask everyone you know "what is the best vehicle?"-- i'd be surprised if 2 of them had the same answer--i know nobody in my family agrees on any single model..

[Corey16]

Your best bet would be to make corner boxes. If you want 2 subwoofers then make 2 corner boxes, sealed will save much more room and if you get a good subwoofer then it wont matter if it's sealed. I would either get 2 8 inch subwoofers or 2 10 inch subwoofers. Since you seem like a price worry person I will give you a few subwoofers you should get. More bang for your buck with these.

8 inch subwoofers:

Infinity reference 8 inch – Great xmax, good frequency response, but needs a lot of wattage. 250rms – 1000max


JBL GTO804 8 inch – Good xmax, good frequency response, but needs a decent amount of wattage. 200rms-800max


Kicker C8 8 inch – Good frequency response, low wattage. 100rms-200max.




10 inch subwoofers:

JL 10w0v3 10 inch - Great xmax, great frequency response, low wattage. 100-300max. (I have 2 in my car and highly recommend them, I custom built a box myself specifically for them. Amazing subwoofers for the price.)


RE Audio SRX D4 10 inch - Awesome xmax, decent frequency response. decent wattage. 300rms-600max


Memphis Audio PR10S4 V2 10 inch - Average xmax, decent frequency response, decent wattage. 250rms-500max


All these should be around the price range of $100 each through Ebay. You are getting more bang for your buck with all of these but I highly recommend the JL 10w0v3 subwoofers. This is what they look like in my car with the custom box I built for the subwoofers specifications. Of course I don't drive a spyder but you get the picture.

[AbstraKt]

Thanks for the replies!! I'll definitely change to a couple 10" subs instead.

One more question though, would I face them toward the back of the car or toward the back seats?

Thanks!

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[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Corey16

JL 10w0v3 10 inch - Great xmax, great frequency response, low wattage. 100-300max. (I have 2 in my car and highly recommend them, I custom built a box myself specifically for them. Amazing subwoofers for the price.)


RE Audio SRX D4 10 inch - Awesome xmax, decent frequency response. decent wattage. 300rms-600max

i won't argue with those 2. the rest are crummy in many regards. (yes, i currently have kicker cvr's-- they stink too, i just haven't gotten around to doing anything about it..)



how you face the subs depends on where they are placed. if you put 2 separate boxes in the corners, then it's kinda hard to face them towards the back of the car..

the idea should be to get the bass to blend with the front stage-- you should be able to hear the bass, but not hear anything that identifies that the bass is coming from the trunk-- it should sound like your door speakers are making all the racket.

[Corey16]

Originally Posted by soundman98

i won't argue with those 2. the rest are crummy in many regards. (yes, i currently have kicker cvr's-- they stink too, i just haven't gotten around to doing anything about it..)

Between two audio nut heads I personally like those 2 out of all as well. Can't argue with RE Audio or JL Audio. Fantastic brands and the more serious subwoofers they make are just heavenly. Oh and can't forget about Sundown Audio.

This list was just for him because I don't see him spending another $100 on each subwoofer to get the better bunch of subwoofers. I just tried to give a list of 3 subwoofers for each size to broaden his options and personal preference bass wise.

[AbstraKt]

Trunk space isn't an issue for me, so I'll likely stick to a dual box for the both of them (mainly for ease of setup and cost). Once I get it set up I'll just try facing them both ways and see which sounds better.

If i'm going for mainly volume and shaking my car, which would be better, the JLs or REs?


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[Corey16]

Hmmmm, I would say the RE Audio's because of it's tremendous xmax compared to the JL's I listed but if I were you I would get the JL's for the crisp sound it produces over the RE Audio subwoofers I listed. The frequency response of the JL's are also better and that makes a difference in a subwoofer. Instead of meaningless bass, you have crisp clear bass that responds and reacts much better when playing. You will enjoy your music more if you get the JL's, The higher end RE Audio subwoofers are much better and WELL worth the money compared to the one I listed. But the same goes for JL as well. The JL's are about $80 and the RE Audios are around $115, for what you get with the JL's overall I say get the JL's but it's your choice.

[icemanrld19]

i just started making my sub box. not that hard to do.

[Mr.Sub]

That box looks awesome! What a perfect fit!

[neil12011]

Iceman, 8's or 10's? How does it sound at highway speeds with the top down?

[Blue0588]

If you're not worried about trunk space...
It's two s10 L7's in 2.35 cu ft tuned to 35hz, she was a tight fit but I got it in!

[Ken]

Damn son! Thats the biggest box I have seen in a spyder trunk.

[SubsgtSpyder]

Nice box sweet how it fits in the cubby hole!!

[AbstraKt]

Originally Posted by Corey16

Hmmmm, I would say the RE Audio's because of it's tremendous xmax compared to the JL's I listed but if I were you I would get the JL's for the crisp sound it produces over the RE Audio subwoofers I listed. The frequency response of the JL's are also better and that makes a difference in a subwoofer. Instead of meaningless bass, you have crisp clear bass that responds and reacts much better when playing. You will enjoy your music more if you get the JL's, The higher end RE Audio subwoofers are much better and WELL worth the money compared to the one I listed. But the same goes for JL as well. The JL's are about $80 and the RE Audios are around $115, for what you get with the JL's overall I say get the JL's but it's your choice.

So would those two 10" JL's produce as much bass & volume as the single 1000w 12" I posted before? I'm not exactly sure how much wattage has to do with volume in subwoofers

[Blue0588]

Originally Posted by AbstraKt

So would those two 10" JL's produce as much bass & volume as the single 1000w 12" I posted before? I'm not exactly sure how much wattage has to do with volume in subwoofers

A lot of it has to do with your box. From what I know it goes...
1) box
2) power
3) sub
You can make a "shitty" sub sound amazing if you build a good box and have the power pushing it. My two 10's out thumps quite a few two 12" set ups because I have a good box and a decent amp pushing them. And that's in a ragtop

[AbstraKt]

Oh ok, I gotcha. So those JL's say the optimal size for a sealed enclosure is 0.65 cubic feet. I would wanna get a dual box that's around 1.5 cubic feet then, right?

And if there's a wall between the two subs, should I cut about half of it out?


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[Ken]

Originally Posted by AbstraKt

Oh ok, I gotcha. So those JL's say the optimal size for a sealed enclosure is 0.65 cubic feet. I would wanna get a dual box that's around 1.5 cubic feet then, right?

And if there's a wall between the two subs, should I cut about half of it out?


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About 1.5 cubes should put you right where you need to be after speaker displacement.

You shouldn't cut any walls out.

[Corey16]

Yes you are correct, make a sealed box at 1.5 cubic feet. There is no need to cut the wall. These JL's will perform and more than likely sound louder than the 12's you listed. Last time I checked how loud my subwoofers were, I compared it to my friends 2 Kicker 12 inch competition subwoofers and the bass output was much louder since he had a digital reader with him. The reason behind this was my custom built box was ported and built for the specifications of both subwoofers. Mine had 4 more decibal output over his. They pack quite a punch for low end JL audio subwoofers, but that is expected of JL. The only thing JL failed was with the WX series subwoofers, they are utter and complete garbage.

[icemanrld19]

mine were 8's. The sound was amazing. About as equal to my buddies 10s rockfords at the time. i just wanted a great sounding bass and still have my trunk space.

[soundman98]

new rf 10's or old rf 10's? because i've got some 6.5" mids that can do better then their new stuff...

[icemanrld19]

old. REmember i had this car back in 2006.

[soundman98]

no.. why would i keep track of your car history? i can't remember what i did yesterday

[AbstraKt]

Alright well here's an update, I got a sub from my buddy for cheap, but it wont fit in the trunk so i'm sticking it in the back seat.

I don't want anything getting jacked, so what's the best way to secure it down? I want it nearly impossible to remove for someone besides me.


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[Corey16]

Do not put it in the back seat. Get a smaller box for it or custom make a small one yourself that will fit in the trunk and put it in the trunk where it pretty much belongs in your case.

[AbstraKt]

But it's in a perfect bandpass box lol


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[Ken]

Originally Posted by AbstraKt

Alright well here's an update, I got a sub from my buddy for cheap, but it wont fit in the trunk so i'm sticking it in the back seat.

I don't want anything getting jacked, so what's the best way to secure it down? I want it nearly impossible to remove for someone besides me.


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First, cover it so people won't see it. Out of sight = out of mind.

Second, If it's bolted down really well the common theif won't be able to remove it, so they will just destroy it with whatever is handy.

Lets see this "awesome bandpass box" hahaha

[AbstraKt]

Alright well it's a good thing I got full coverage insurance then. I should be able to bolt it down to the seat belt bolt, right?

Haha it's nothing special to the eyes, but it hits harder than my two 12's I had before 0_0

[logomano]

you could try spare tire delete and throw it in there

[neil12011]

Don't put it in the back seat, it's not "clean" and you're begging to get your car broken into. Take the extra time and do it right. You'll be glad that you did.

[AbstraKt]

It doesn't fit in the trunk :/ and I bolted it to some plywood, and the plywood is bolted down to the car's frame.
The whole thing isn't even removable unless the convertible top is down, it won't fit through the door.

I also have a camera monitoring my car at night, with a sticker on my windows saying "You're being watched".

No different than someone with a hatchback like my last car. Back wide open just like a back seat anyway.

Hoping nobody breaks in. But even if it was in the trunk, someone would still break that window and try getting it. Either way I'm covered by insurance, and I'll have the idiots on camera for the po-po

[jaloosk]

Don't "bump" it when you're close to home, or close to where you park on a regular basis. (rule #1 whenever you have a system capable of being heard outside the vehicle)

Make sure the box is covered in black carpet, and that your windows are tinted.

[AbstraKt]

Thanks jaloosk. Yeah I've been maximum paranoid since my last system got jacked. I don't bump near home and I take the long way home just to make sure I'm not being followed.
My interior is tan so i'm gonna go pick up some tan fabric from the store. Still gotta tint the windows a bit more though, not sure what the law is in WI for that

[jaloosk]

If your interior is tan I would definitely NOT keep the box in the back seat. You can get away with it if it's black, but tan is just too light.

[AbstraKt]

Well it's not even close to fitting in the trunk, so do I just say 'screw it' and sell it or what?

[Ken]

Yes.

Or keep it as is and look like a ricer.

Your choice

[jaloosk]

Originally Posted by Ken

Yes.

Or keep it as is and look like a ricer.

Your choice

+1

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by AbstraKt

It doesn't fit in the trunk :/ and I bolted it to some plywood, and the plywood is bolted down to the car's frame.
The whole thing isn't even removable unless the convertible top is down, it won't fit through the door.

I also have a camera monitoring my car at night, with a sticker on my windows saying "You're being watched".

No different than someone with a hatchback like my last car. Back wide open just like a back seat anyway.

Hoping nobody breaks in. But even if it was in the trunk, someone would still break that window and try getting it. Either way I'm covered by insurance, and I'll have the idiots on camera for the po-po

you forget how easy it is to remove the top-- all that is needed is a knife...


you really don't have much experience with cctv systems do you? nobody cares about those stickers either..

best case: assuming the camera is focused soley on your car, in a daylight-bright-lit lot--which they aren't normally, you can expect to get a poor description of the clothes the suspect was wearing, maybe a rough idea of the make/model of the car.

but in all the times i had to dig through footage of breakin's while i worked at the support desk at a camera company, the BEST we got was dark figures breaking in somewhere, and a concept of what vehicle they had(truck, 2dr car, 4dr car).. color on most camera's suck, as well as definition that is needed for actually identifying the critical info like the car make/model.

and lastly-- to get a licence plate shot, you need dedicated camera focused soly on a small lot entry point. anything else doesn't work very well--- the 2 times that i had that available for a case, both suspect cars had worn-out, useless temp plates...


so instead of looking at the footage as useful, look at it as a the equivalent of a person giving you a tape of when they butt-raped you..

[AbstraKt]

Originally Posted by soundman98

you forget how easy it is to remove the top-- all that is needed is a knife...


you really don't have much experience with cctv systems do you? nobody cares about those stickers either..

best case: assuming the camera is focused soley on your car, in a daylight-bright-lit lot--which they aren't normally, you can expect to get a poor description of the clothes the suspect was wearing, maybe a rough idea of the make/model of the car.

but in all the times i had to dig through footage of breakin's while i worked at the support desk at a camera company, the BEST we got was dark figures breaking in somewhere, and a concept of what vehicle they had(truck, 2dr car, 4dr car).. color on most camera's suck, as well as definition that is needed for actually identifying the critical info like the car make/model.

and lastly-- to get a licence plate shot, you need dedicated camera focused soly on a small lot entry point. anything else doesn't work very well--- the 2 times that i had that available for a case, both suspect cars had worn-out, useless temp plates...


so instead of looking at the footage as useful, look at it as a the equivalent of a person giving you a tape of when they butt-raped you..

Yes the top is easily removed, but so is a window. And I have a camera focused in on my car that alerts me when it detects movement. Honestly I think i'm just at risk as someone with a hatchback.

And I did a rear seat removal, so now everything is right on the floor.
Not trying to argue with anyone, just saying that I worked with what I had and i'm happy with it. I'll make it work :P

[jaloosk]

Some people just need to learn the hard, HARD way, by getting their shit jacked twice.

[AbstraKt]

Lol I'll post pictures once I'm done with everything. It should be 100% camouflaged to anyone peeking in from the outside.
It's only a 10" so it can't be heard very far away at all, so at least I won't be advertising 24/7.

Pictures to come! You'll be impressed I promise :-P lol

I'm in super ricer mode 0_0

[Micborth]

Originally Posted by icemanrld19

i just started making my sub box. not that hard to do.

Can I have the dimensions for your box? I want something like this but I've never work on anything like this.


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[neil12011]

There's a for sale thread very similar where he listed dimensions, be sure to rep him if you check it out.

[Ken]

Is it so hard to get off your ass and measure / figure it out yourself?

[Micborth]

Originally Posted by Ken

Is it so hard to get off your ass and measure / figure it out yourself?

Didn't know it was so bad to ask for help to make a job easier.


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[neil12011]

He's got a point, hell, just cut some cardboard, it's not advanced physics, if you don't/won't do the measurements, then actually making the box is a stretch.

[Micborth]

Hope off my ass guys I just don't want to mess the thing up. Damn sorry for asking.


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[Ken]

It's not bad to ask for help, just use some common sense. This is the internet after all. What if you're spoon fed the wrong information and you waste $25 and a few hours of your life making a box that doesn't fit? How frustrated are you going to feel then?

10 minutes is all it would take to measure it, figure out your max dimensions, and then tailor the box's internal volume to the sub's requirements. Other than that you're just slapping a beauty panel on the front.

[Micborth]

I was just going to use it as a reference beings I have the same car.


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