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Old 06/28/2012, 03:49 PM   #1441 (permalink)
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The lower 3.5L cover or a "shaved" 3.8L cover have been used. If you want to use all 3.8 covers, cut the tab off, fill it, and create your own mark.
That seems to be the best option that I've been leaning towards.
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Old 07/13/2012, 06:21 PM   #1442 (permalink)
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Think im going to start collecting parts to do this swap on my 00 fed spec mt

So ontop of the 74 parts which cams should I use? my stock 72s? or the 75s?
Or whats the most aggressive stock cams available? (This isnt my toy I dont want to spend 1000 bux on rpw cams...)

What kind of power should I expect if I do the following?

74 tb, 74 lower im,75 upper im, stock manifolds, cold air intake, fidanza flywheel,catback?
the following plus headers? (not sure what Id go with dont like the wait time or price of the rpw's)
the following plus tune?
(It would stay resonated and catted)
Also it seems with all the tq available from the 75 that the GT would have better gearing than the GTS. Thoughts on that?
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!

Last edited by Hyde; 07/14/2012 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 07/15/2012, 02:23 AM   #1443 (permalink)
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by he grace of the car gods just read this thread from page one take your notes all is laid out for you it has all been explained ignorance is bliss the idle shall never know
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Old 07/15/2012, 02:32 AM   #1444 (permalink)
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gts tranny with lsd... follow the greats like pharm and codeman trvside ect. ect. ect. read read read i appoldgize i'm not flaming ya but just read brother its all in this thread start at page one,,,or pay someone to do it for you like i did lazyness can prevale for the right price check out finness'es ride built by pharm you will see what the all mighty dollar can do for this platform IE... recreate it and make something real... anyway good luck kid
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Old 07/15/2012, 01:09 PM   #1445 (permalink)
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by he grace of the car gods just read this thread from page one take your notes all is laid out for you it has all been explained ignorance is bliss the idle shall never know
Obviously I did read it to have that much information. I was trying to verify what I read and double checking. Before I commit to any parts purchases.

Which to me seems like a logical and smart move. Also some of the information has changed slightly since the beginning of this thread.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/15/2012, 05:38 PM   #1446 (permalink)
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You have it so easy from all of the swaps recently. All the information is out there now, unlike my swap a few years ago when there was only speculation.

If you're not getting RPW cams, just stick with the stock 75 cams.
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Old 07/15/2012, 06:19 PM   #1447 (permalink)
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You have it so easy from all of the swaps recently. All the information is out there now, unlike my swap a few years ago when there was only speculation.

If you're not getting RPW cams, just stick with the stock 75 cams.
Ok the reason I was doubting the 75 cams is I heard the top end wasnt that strong. And honestly with the price of the RPW's and this car not being a big thing to me I cant see spending 1000+ for them. I just figure since I have to rip apart the car anyway to fix some issues might as well spend a few more bucks and make the car what I think it should be. So somethings will be cheaper some will be decent. As my goals are just to make it more fun to drive and not max hp.

So unless I find an awesome deal on headers got to figure out what route I want to go that way. Whether its stock manifolds or having a local shop/buddy who owes me a favor heavily modify a set of OBX's or something (yes I know they suck..)

So looks like Im going to try to buy a trashed 74 (dont need a running one but with needing a decent amount of parts off of one can just get a blown one) and a good 75. So a good tune now that they figured out the 00 fed spec mt ecu is tunable. And while I know its somewhat frowned upon. The same 3 inch catback that silvertune has. Figure out the other issues as they arise as this is my 3rd car.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/15/2012, 07:26 PM   #1448 (permalink)
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If you get your 75 out of an endeavor then you might as well use your stock cams because the endeavor's are quite a bit more torque oriented but if you get a galant 75 then stick with those ones because they're even more aggressive then our stock ones.

If you're going to use stock manifolds and are going to have downpipes custom made to fit then I would go find some 00 Fed Spec manifolds. They flow as well as a set of cheap headers and outflow any cali spec manifold that comes on this engine. You will also benefit from that 3" catback as well. The 75 breathes and has lots of potential.
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Old 07/16/2012, 01:16 AM   #1449 (permalink)
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HYDE i'm sorry bro i was not shooting you down good sir.... seem like you are going to do it right the first time and appreciate someone whom does there homework good luck with the build i cant wait to follow your progress...
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Old 07/17/2012, 05:55 PM   #1450 (permalink)
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HYDE i'm sorry bro i was not shooting you down good sir.... seem like you are going to do it right the first time and appreciate someone whom does there homework good luck with the build i cant wait to follow your progress...
Its all good. I have plenty of homework to do and this thread is a massive help. Just a lot of info to take in.

I will probably start collecting parts soon. Sadly this car needs a good amount of work (been sitting a year pretty much and needed some work before it was parked)

So I already have poly motor mounts in it and a fidanza flywheel going back in. This is a daily driver and I want to keep it pretty streetable. So will the Spec stage 2+ or 2.5 (whatever it is) be enough clutch for the 75? Ive noticed a lot of people have gone stage 4 but Im curious how streetable that honestly is (stop and go traffic wise).

To the suggestion of running 00 fed spec manifolds. I have those on the car since thats what my car is. But how do those compare to a typical shorty header? (would likely be modifying a set of megans or something otherwise).

Not looking for huge #'s. Would probably be happy with 220-230whp to be honest. Which seems pretty possible with the route I plan on going.

75 upper im
74 lower im
74 tb
fed spec manifolds or modified megans
cheapy ebay 3" catback (probably with another resonator welded in)
Fidanza flywheel
91-93 octane tune

Think its doable?
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/17/2012, 06:08 PM   #1451 (permalink)
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You're going to want to sleeve those motor mounts, you will probably blow them with the 75 if they aren't tight.

I have a couple videos on youtube of that exhaust on my 3.6. It'll sound very similar on the 3.8 (friend with a 3.8 swapped galant has the same exhaust). No rasp on either car (this is the N1 knock off) and at least on my car it wasn't insanely loud in daily driving, I haven't taken that docile a ride in his car yet. Obviously it's still cheaper to put an aftermarket muffler on it then it is buy a full aftermarket system if you don't like it.

The fed spec manifolds will flow at least as well as the shitty megan headers and better then any ebay knock off. On top of that, they'll sound ten million times better. Seriously. I'm using them on my turbo build for both reasons.

I'd stay away from Spec clutches. The lower stage clutches pop springs all the time and unless you really like driving a nasty clutch you won't have any fun in daily driving.

If you run a good CAI with the 74 throttle body, 75 upper and the fed spec manifolds with the 3" exhaust then your numbers are a walk in the park with a decent tune.
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Old 07/17/2012, 06:19 PM   #1452 (permalink)
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You're going to want to sleeve those motor mounts, you will probably blow them with the 75 if they aren't tight.

I have a couple videos on youtube of that exhaust on my 3.6. It'll sound very similar on the 3.8 (friend with a 3.8 swapped galant has the same exhaust). No rasp on either car (this is the N1 knock off) and at least on my car it wasn't insanely loud in daily driving, I haven't taken that docile a ride in his car yet. Obviously it's still cheaper to put an aftermarket muffler on it then it is buy a full aftermarket system if you don't like it.

The fed spec manifolds will flow at least as well as the shitty megan headers and better then any ebay knock off. On top of that, they'll sound ten million times better. Seriously. I'm using them on my turbo build for both reasons.

I'd stay away from Spec clutches. The lower stage clutches pop springs all the time and unless you really like driving a nasty clutch you won't have any fun in daily driving.

If you run a good CAI with the 74 throttle body, 75 upper and the fed spec manifolds with the 3" exhaust then your numbers are a walk in the park with a decent tune.
Good to hear on the #'s. Guess when I pull the car apart I will inspect the fed spec manifolds and maybe take a die grinder to them to smooth them out a bit on the inside. On the clutch side what would you recommend? The car has had 2 ACT's in it and they didnt hold up too well. Granted I think one was just an HD. On the motor mounts I will have to check them out. Had a buddy at a performance shop do them probably 60k miles ago but they still felt nice and firm last time I drove it.

Might look into relocating the battery down low in the engine bay to help with clearance for the intake and such as well.

Also good to hear on the exhaust. I plan to still have a high flow cat in there as well.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/17/2012, 08:10 PM   #1453 (permalink)
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i have a spec clutch and i love it (technically stock pp and tb and spec stage 2 disc lol) feels like a stock clutch though
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Old 07/17/2012, 08:17 PM   #1454 (permalink)
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I love my spec clutch too, I'm just saying I've seen a lot of spec discs shit springs.

The mounts are probably firm but the problem is the pins are made for bigger diameter bolts so there is some play and when you put the big blocks in and shift hard with the extra torque the free play gives the engine a ram effect on the mounts and it breaks them.

I ported my Fed spec manifolds like crazy.
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Old 07/17/2012, 08:26 PM   #1455 (permalink)
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I love my spec clutch too, I'm just saying I've seen a lot of spec discs shit springs.

The mounts are probably firm but the problem is the pins are made for bigger diameter bolts so there is some play and when you put the big blocks in and shift hard with the extra torque the free play gives the engine a ram effect on the mounts and it breaks them.

I ported my Fed spec manifolds like crazy.
Will check out the mounts when the 72 comes out. If they need sleeved will hit you up for a sleeve kit

And maybe with a bit of porting and a better downpipe the stock manifolds wont be too bad. That is unless i come across a set of rpw's.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/17/2012, 08:35 PM   #1456 (permalink)
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RPW's are gold, but if you don't get them I'd use those manifolds. I'd love to hear a 6g75 with those manifolds... Heck if you don't want them I'd be interested in taking them.
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Old 07/19/2012, 06:50 PM   #1457 (permalink)
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RPW's are gold, but if you don't get them I'd use those manifolds. I'd love to hear a 6g75 with those manifolds... Heck if you don't want them I'd be interested in taking them.
Very cool.

So this will be a slow swap since I have a lot of repair parts I need to purchase as well...

But started the car and drove it around the block today and its got me back in the mood to fix this thing.

Clutch I guess I will do some research on. I dont care if it has a heavy clutch pedal I just want smooth operation which with the fidanza isnt always an easy thing.

Does anyone have a picture of the throttle cable bracket they fabbed for the 75 upper? Just curious what others have done.

Also hitting up a buddy whose supposed to do some exhaust work on one of my others cars and see if he would do an under axle catback cheap enough otherwise i will just do the ebay one.

Other than that just trying to find a local tuner who does mitsu's as ive never done any kind of tuning.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. Hope this helps!
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Old 07/29/2012, 10:55 PM   #1458 (permalink)
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Old 07/30/2012, 09:09 AM   #1459 (permalink)
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I cant seem to find the pictures of the bracket for the TB cable I made. I'll take some pics of what I did and post them up.
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Old 07/30/2012, 09:44 AM   #1460 (permalink)
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I just hung an L bracket off the EGR valve.
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Old 08/05/2012, 12:04 AM   #1461 (permalink)
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mani..bracket, 1

[IMG][/IMG]this is a picture of one i stole a while back, i think the black is of a 74bracket,save as many pics as you can, and also take notes, of things you need to get done, saves alot of time.[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09/24/2012, 11:33 AM   #1462 (permalink)
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3.8 non mivec swap question

Okay so im about to pick up a 3.8 Non Mivec motor in great condition with only 50k miles on it. but its an automatic and i want to keep mine manual. what else would i need to complete this swap? Can i keep my 00 GT Tranny? my question is. if i keep my manual transmission, and pick up this 3.8 v6 motor thats an auto. what else will i need to pick up to make sure i can keep it manual? i searched the threads and i could not find exactly what i was looking for. i found out that someone was not sure if the 3g tranny would bolt up, so if thats the case and it can not? what tranny should i pick up. i saw a thread that someone picked up an Endeavor transmission but that sounded off to me? maybe im just wrong? also it said it would need an ECU swap but mine is non Mivec so i just planned on picking up a 01+ GT Ecu and reflashing it. I feel like im on the right track here, but i really want to pull this off, just want to make sure i get all the right parts. as of right now i already have a stage 2 clutch *ebay* and because its from ebay i will most likely replace it anyway! i know i need new motor mounts, stage 2 clutch, im guessing a tranny now, flywheel?. and im kind of stuck there. Im also not to sure on if its AWD, RWD, FWD? i saw someone touch the subject of axels but not to much on it? much help is appreciated thanks guys!

EDIT1: Also, i dont think i can use my 00GT throttle body either? which should i pickup?
EDIT2: So found it its FWD, so thats a ++ for me.

Last edited by GreyPass; 09/24/2012 at 11:36 AM. Reason: new updated info
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Old 09/24/2012, 11:45 AM   #1463 (permalink)
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The parts required for the swap have been discussed time and time again. An engine is not auto or manual, RWD, AWD or FWD, the transmission is what makes a car auto or manual so on and so forth.
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Old 09/24/2012, 11:58 AM   #1464 (permalink)
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Read this thread and take lots of notes!! Also from the sound of your post you need to take an auto 101 class as you may not completely understand basic auto mechanics.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclip...iscussion.html
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Old 09/24/2012, 03:50 PM   #1465 (permalink)
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Old 09/24/2012, 11:15 PM   #1466 (permalink)
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Read this thread and take lots of notes!! Also from the sound of your post you need to take an auto 101 class as you may not completely understand basic auto mechanics.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclip...iscussion.html
thats the thread i got the information i do have from. Im in the process of gathering up some money so i can take the next automotive class at the local community college here. everyone learn in different manners, may it be a video, reading or notes. i have and i am researching, but in the same note, not everything is worded the way or in ways i can understand it, or understand it enough to put it down on my own list. 100% agreed i lack automechanic skills and knowledge, but im also trying to learn, so im searching to my ability to learn and take down what i understand. no harm in asking in a way that i can learn.
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Old 09/25/2012, 07:22 AM   #1467 (permalink)
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I don't think that thread could be more clear.

There is a list of all the parts you need. There are at least 3 people who posted while doing the swap that have either added info and photos to the main swap thread of their own thread. And there are a few people that are doing the swap right now or just finished. Instead of cluttering the boards with questions that should be asked in swap thread maybe you can pm a few people with questions.

This is a swap is not going to be a walk in the park for if you don't know basics. Instead of gathering parts first I would focus on taking that class. Get a better understanding of auto mechanics. Then go at this swap.
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Old 09/26/2012, 04:40 AM   #1468 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by drunkoffjuic View Post
I don't think that thread could be more clear.

There is a list of all the parts you need. There are at least 3 people who posted while doing the swap that have either added info and photos to the main swap thread of their own thread. And there are a few people that are doing the swap right now or just finished. Instead of cluttering the boards with questions that should be asked in swap thread maybe you can pm a few people with questions.

This is a swap is not going to be a walk in the park for if you don't know basics. Instead of gathering parts first I would focus on taking that class. Get a better understanding of auto mechanics. Then go at this swap.
this is cute. idk why you guys shut people down for asking questions, im not very automotive smart, but ive managed to do all the work to my 3g by myself from installing ebay headers, re drilling them and installing my clutch with a tiny ass jack and 2 shitty stands. i may not be smart but i try to learn, im not sitting on my ass waiting for someone to hand it to me. Im learning and im motivated. but what i didnt once ask for is the people who have already done the 3.8 swaps and just are tired of helping to give me these stupid remarks. if you dont want to help then dont reply thanks!

ANYWAY! after more researching and junkyard searching. ive somewhat come up with my plan, or list. but im still confused on the 6g72/4/5 mixing. i do however understand that there are some parts required to be swapped around to make this swap work. but as the swap goes itself i want to keep the 3.8L non mivec itself, not changing the heads or anything. so heres what i have pieced together as far as information on what i need to keep/or change.

6g75 swap list:
6g75 3.8L Non Mivec Motor *2004 Galant 51k miles*
6g75 wiring harness
6g75 Alternator
6g75 stoc 305cc injectors
6g75 Bearings
6g74 alternator bracket
6g74 A/C Bracket
6g74 Upper P/S Bracket
6g74 Timing Belt Cover
6g74 Throttle body
6g74 upper and lower oil pan, baffle and pickup
6g74 fuel rail
6g72 Lower P/S Bracket
6g72 motor mount brackets
6g72 Radiator
Stage 2 clutch
01+ GT ECU *tuning*

Possible upgrades:
RPW stage 2 cams *264*
q45 TB *i think its 90mm*
Forged Pistons
new Radiator
Lighter Flywheel
Rebuild the 3.8 Heads
Bore and Stroke the motor out to 4.1

ive read the entire thread from page 1 to 25 about 3 times now, as well as do my research from how a head functions to bore and stroking. Flame me for not knowing my stuff, im sure i messed something up here. dont flame me for trying. doing what i love, sorry i dont have the money to take the college class thanks to those that have helped. Honestly i just want to know if im on the right track.
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Old 09/26/2012, 07:43 AM   #1469 (permalink)
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There is also a list on post #1378 and #1380.
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Old 09/26/2012, 08:46 AM   #1470 (permalink)
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Grey, sounds like you are planning to rebuild a engine. Maybe get in contact with this guy and swap some ideas.

Officially going to start looking for an engine to rebuild!
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Old 09/26/2012, 11:29 AM   #1471 (permalink)
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There is also a list on post #1378 and #1380.
Yes, but both of those lists had someone else counter act what they had said at one point or another, so im taking my bits and pieces and a bit of common sense, still the main issue is between the belt covers and the belts if im not wrong?
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Old 09/26/2012, 11:32 AM   #1472 (permalink)
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Grey, sounds like you are planning to rebuild a engine. Maybe get in contact with this guy and swap some ideas.

Officially going to start looking for an engine to rebuild!
Thank you, but yes and No, i have not got in depth into that thread but it looks likes he wants to rebuild a 72/74 from the opening post. I dont want to completely rebuild an engine, i want to keep it as much of the 6g75 as i can, but at the same time i do understand some parts must be switched over to make this swap work. i would like to beef it up some while it sits, but the reason i want to do that is my 3g is my DD, so i have the time to beef it up, toy around with it, before throwing it in, this swap will not take place until this motor is completely built and completely ready to drop in aside from wiring and the man power to do it. all from the fact that its my daily driver. once the 75 is in, i will completely rebuild my 72 and sell it.
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Old 09/26/2012, 03:26 PM   #1473 (permalink)
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Honestly i just want to know if im on the right track.
alrighty then.


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Originally Posted by GreyPass View Post
6g75 swap list:
6g75 3.8L Non Mivec Motor *2004 Galant 51k miles* YES
6g75 wiring harness NO
6g75 Alternator NO
6g75 stoc 305cc injectors YES
6g75 Bearings WTF?? PROBABLY NOT
6g74 alternator bracket YES
6g74 A/C Bracket 6G72 if i remember correctly, someone (whos actually done the swap) correct me if i'm wrong
6g74 Upper P/S Bracket YES
6g74 Timing Belt Cover YES (think i used the 75, can't remember)
6g74 Throttle body YES good choice but not a must
6g74 upper and lower oil pan, baffle and pickup YES not entirely sure because i'm still using the 75 but that sounds right
6g74 fuel rail YES, or 3000gt
6g72 Lower P/S Bracket NO, but i could be wrong, can't remember
6g72 motor mount brackets YES
6g72 Radiator upgrade to mishimoto
Stage 2 clutch YES
01+ GT ECU *tuning* YES
6G74 COOLANT MANIFOLD WITH THERMOSTAT HOUSING ETC.
6G74 UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLDS
HEADERS THAT FIT rpw longtubes were built around the 74 which i beleive is externally identical to the 75 so with the 74 pan they should fit fine. however o2 bungs have to be welded on and a mid pipe has o be made conecting headers to catback...easy shit don't sweat it


Possible upgrades:
RPW stage 2 cams *264* UNNECESSARY
q45 TB *i think its 90mm* UNNECESSARY
Forged Pistons YES, but only if boosted or overbored and get forged rods or 74 rods and have crank balanced
new Radiator MENTIONED ABOVE
Lighter Flywheel YES, but why not do it when the motor is already out and getting a new clutch?
Rebuild the 3.8 Heads UNNECESSARY
Bore and Stroke the motor out to 4.1 YES&NO bore to 3.9 or 4.0 if you want but reward will not justify cost
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Old 09/26/2012, 03:28 PM   #1474 (permalink)
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once the 75 is in, i will completely rebuild my 72 and sell it.
why? you couldn't give a 72 awayfor free, nobody will buy it. just use what parts you need from it then sell for parts on here and scrap whats left over.
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Old 09/26/2012, 03:30 PM   #1475 (permalink)
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why? you couldn't give a 72 awayfor free, nobody will buy it. just use what parts you need from it then sell for parts on here and scrap whats left over.
Agreed.

I will working on a project with the pistons/rods and block of my 72 this winter. Heads and the rest of the parts will be scraped.
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Old 09/26/2012, 05:19 PM   #1476 (permalink)
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I've scrapped 4 6g72's precisely because you can't get rid of them otherwise.
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Old 09/26/2012, 05:49 PM   #1477 (permalink)
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I've scrapped 4 6g72's precisely because you can't get rid of them otherwise.
Nooo! You know my intentions. I may been in need of one this winter
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Old 09/26/2012, 05:53 PM   #1478 (permalink)
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Had you made up your mind FIVE days earlier I would still have mine! My first motor could've lived on in epicness.
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Old 09/26/2012, 05:59 PM   #1479 (permalink)
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I've been telling you it all depends on if I come across the funds for the internals at the right time. I would have loved to give your original 72 the love you never gave it.
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Old 09/26/2012, 06:09 PM   #1480 (permalink)
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Agreed.

I will working on a project with the pistons/rods and block of my 72 this winter. Heads and the rest of the parts will be scraped.
Well, if it's not too late, could I buy one of you 72 heads?
As I'm doing a 75 swap soon, frankly there are a few things I'd like to play around with I'm curious about, not like the head will ever be on a functioning motor in my hands
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Old 09/26/2012, 06:12 PM   #1481 (permalink)
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Well, if it's not too late, could I buy one of you 72 heads?
As I'm doing a 75 swap soon, frankly there are a few things I'd like to play around with I'm curious about, not like the head will ever be on a functioning motor in my hands
What would you like to know?
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Old 09/26/2012, 08:33 PM   #1482 (permalink)
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alrighty then.
Thanks, but why NO to the Wiring harness? and why no to the alternator? i heard the 6g75 alternator was 110, good to keep is it not? or stick with a 6g74 alternator? bearings i guess keep the 6g72?
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Old 09/26/2012, 08:49 PM   #1483 (permalink)
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Holy god dude, get out from under your rock and figure out how an engine works before you go about trying to do this. You don't just swap bearings out, to do so requires a complete engine rebuild on top of a blueprint job which is an expensive job at the shop.

And what makes you think the 3.8 bearings are the same as the 3.0? You don't actually know what bearings are do you?

Why would you need to replace the wiring harness when you use the same sensors and ECU? What sense would that make?

You don't NEED the 110 amp alternator and it doesn't typically come with the engine so don't hold your breath on it. And not the 74 alternator either, use your fricken stock one.


You have NO idea what you're doing. Not the slightest clue. You're going to drop a grand on an engine and have no idea what to do with it. Do yourself a favor and either move on to greener pastures or spend a few months on google learning about how this all goes together.
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Old 09/26/2012, 09:43 PM   #1484 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
Holy god dude, get out from under your rock and figure out how an engine works before you go about trying to do this. You don't just swap bearings out, to do so requires a complete engine rebuild on top of a blueprint job which is an expensive job at the shop.

And what makes you think the 3.8 bearings are the same as the 3.0? You don't actually know what bearings are do you?

Why would you need to replace the wiring harness when you use the same sensors and ECU? What sense would that make?

You don't NEED the 110 amp alternator and it doesn't typically come with the engine so don't hold your breath on it. And not the 74 alternator either, use your fricken stock one.


You have NO idea what you're doing. Not the slightest clue. You're going to drop a grand on an engine and have no idea what to do with it. Do yourself a favor and either move on to greener pastures or spend a few months on google learning about how this all goes together.
thank you, i really didn't give enough of a shit to type that out for him.
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Old 09/26/2012, 09:48 PM   #1485 (permalink)
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Especially when it's all been discussed before. *sigh 2012*
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Old 09/26/2012, 10:10 PM   #1486 (permalink)
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From the fucking top:

REQUIREMENTS
Custom intake (manifold dependant but a goood idea in any case, you want a 3" pipe at least)
6g74 throttle body
6g74 or 6g75 manifold (either will work, refer to statement 1)
6g74 lower intake manifold with fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator
6g74 or 6g75 injectors (the 72 injectors won't cut it, MAKE SURE THEY'RE SCALED)
6g72 distributor with wires
6g74 coolant housing (LUBE THE O RING ON THE CROSSOVER PIPE PRIOR TO INSTALL)
6g74 upper power steering bracket
6g74 alternator bracket
6g74 lower timing cover
Big exhaust (you're putting a big engine in, don't choke it like a moron)
ECUFlash (unless you want to blow up all your work!)

Options:
Custom primary exhaust setup (either downpipes or headers, whatever you use will require custom work of some sort)
6g74 oil pans with pickup and windage tray (to fit 6g74 headers)
6g74 throttle body adapter for 6g75 manifold (notice the bore offset...)
6g75 alternator (Its a 110 amp instead of the stock 90 but is otherwise identical. if it comes with the motor, use it. If not, don't bother)

Other possible upgrades:
Cams - make an insane upgrade

Next person that asks deserves to get permabanned clean off the site.

Last edited by Silvertune; 09/26/2012 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 09/27/2012, 11:56 AM   #1487 (permalink)
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Holy god dude, get out from under your rock and figure out how an engine works before you go about trying to do this. You don't just swap bearings out, to do so requires a complete engine rebuild on top of a blueprint job which is an expensive job at the shop.

And what makes you think the 3.8 bearings are the same as the 3.0? You don't actually know what bearings are do you?

Why would you need to replace the wiring harness when you use the same sensors and ECU? What sense would that make?

You don't NEED the 110 amp alternator and it doesn't typically come with the engine so don't hold your breath on it. And not the 74 alternator either, use your fricken stock one.


You have NO idea what you're doing. Not the slightest clue. You're going to drop a grand on an engine and have no idea what to do with it. Do yourself a favor and either move on to greener pastures or spend a few months on google learning about how this all goes together.
I was not holding my breath for a 75 alternator but i wanted it yes. im not planning on doing this swap tomorrow, and yes what im doing is spending my days on google learning, but that does not mean i can not make a plan while i do it and obtain my parts when i get them all for free from a junkyard? why wait for someone else to take them. and as far as the bearings go ive heard different thoughts on them throughout this entire thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
From the fucking top:

REQUIREMENTS
Custom intake (manifold dependant but a goood idea in any case, you want a 3" pipe at least)
6g74 throttle body
6g74 or 6g75 manifold (either will work, refer to statement 1)
6g74 lower intake manifold with fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator
6g74 or 6g75 injectors (the 72 injectors won't cut it, MAKE SURE THEY'RE SCALED)
6g72 distributor with wires
6g74 coolant housing (LUBE THE O RING ON THE CROSSOVER PIPE PRIOR TO INSTALL)
6g74 upper power steering bracket
6g74 alternator bracket
6g74 lower timing cover
Big exhaust (you're putting a big engine in, don't choke it like a moron)
ECUFlash (unless you want to blow up all your work!)

Options:
Custom primary exhaust setup (either downpipes or headers, whatever you use will require custom work of some sort)
6g74 oil pans with pickup and windage tray (to fit 6g74 headers)
6g74 throttle body adapter for 6g75 manifold (notice the bore offset...)
6g75 alternator (Its a 110 amp instead of the stock 90 but is otherwise identical. if it comes with the motor, use it. If not, don't bother)

Other possible upgrades:
Cams - make an insane upgrade

Next person that asks deserves to get permabanned clean off the site.
I just got in good with a machine shop yesterday this is not to far out of reach of doing, i just need to finish my knowledge on it. i did not once state that i was going to get this and ask someone to do it for me or pay my way to glory. this is my project that i wanted to do myself and i have all plans on doing it that way till the day i drop it in. again flame me for not knowing something by all means it does not hurt i deserve it because in the process of flaming i learn more *thanks for the new added help/list* but at the same time no one gives credit from where i started on this site and with my car. dont flame me for trying and learning alone. if i had the extra money laying around i would take a class and learn through that but sadly i dont so google/c3g and youtube teach me. nothing wrong with that. Thank you for your help and new advice
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:05 PM   #1488 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
Big exhaust (you're putting a big engine in, don't choke it like a moron)
ECUFlash (unless you want to blow up all your work!)

Other possible upgrades:
Cams - make an insane upgrade
Right now i have an absurdly large exhaust, the comments i get on it usually go around "loudest eclipse ive heard" but not loud in your adverage fart can way. question pertaining to that is, if anyone has made a duel exhaust work or fit into an 00 GT? if so what Brand and style? if not ignore it il keep my normal exhaust.

Pertaining to the ECU. i know the 00 GT Is not reflashable, i was going to pick up an 01+ GT to reflash and tune, already setting money aside for it, but was wondering if there would be a better ecu to obtain maybe an evo 8? or go higher in eclipse if 06+ would work? i know it would not fit in the harness and would probly have to be bolted to the passenger floor? but could it work or should i just stick with the 01 GT Ecu i had my eyes on?

As for the cams, i saw Silvertune somewhere here that you had said something about the RPW 264's? Which i am also setting money aside for right now aswell, are those the ones i should go for? or just a good suggestion?

By all means i am aware this will cost money and in no means am i trying to do this in a day, i have little envelopes with names for instance ECU/CAMS/Tuning and i put money in them every paycheck. i am good freinds with the owner of a junkyard and i get all mitsubishi items free if they come in. so again im doing it, just slowly and learning as i go. this is my project, not a shops. only shop that has anything to do with my swap is the machine shop thats going to bore and stroke my engine, and whoever tunes my ECU.
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:12 PM   #1489 (permalink)
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The 00 ecu will be flashable with the 2.0 cable. The 01s will offer a more defined definition file, which before offered the injector latencies to be edited for your larger injectors that come with the 3.8. And flaming does not teach you anything more than the ones personality.
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:18 PM   #1490 (permalink)
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The 00 ecu will be flashable with the 2.0 cable. The 01s will offer a more defined definition file, which before offered the injector latencies to be edited for your larger injectors that come with the 3.8. And flaming does not teach you anything more than the ones personality.
ive heard great things about your and your tuning and was looking to ask you to do mine. i heard around 200 will do it? but my question is, if i bore and stroke it to a 4.1 with all aftermarket parts such as a custom intake, headers and exhaust. what would be the best ECU to pick up before tuning, so that after tuning its even that much better. if im going to spend the money to tune and get an ecu, might as well go big.
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:21 PM   #1491 (permalink)
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If you want to hold hands with the noobs who refuse to read why don't you stick to PM. Redundancy is the very reason we're cleaning this forum out now.
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:26 PM   #1492 (permalink)
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If you want to hold hands with the noobs who refuse to read why don't you stick to PM. Redundancy is the very reason we're cleaning this forum out now.
Im not here to argue on a thread but i just dont understand how you think i have not read this thread? again no i am not mechanically smart, but you think the list that i did put together just came off the top of my head? ive got 6 notepads open on my computer right now full of information all pulled from this thread. ive read it about 4 times now, now first yes i got confused because i got focused on parts for the MIVEC from reading the first few pages then started to mix them with the Non MIVEC, got that cleared up, and from the editing that yourself and white knight did im clearly not to for off, there are just some things that need to be fixed. Get mad at someone for not reading or researching, but i dont fall into that category sorry i have been reading and researching. just working on my overall knowledge of mechanics and engines now.
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Old 09/27/2012, 12:59 PM   #1493 (permalink)
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JDM Stainless Headers, MC 3.5'' Catback exhaust, flowmaster cat
I got this from your video, is this correct?
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Old 09/27/2012, 01:05 PM   #1494 (permalink)
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I got this from your video, is this correct?
Yes, my first catback was from ebay, its an offroad exhaust with 3.5'' piping, i have an Invidia n1 sitting in my garage for the 3.8 swap, other option was getting rid of the invidia and picking up an Injen, not to sure yet, going to try it first with my ebay one. but its posted from an Iphone 3, not very good.
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Old 09/27/2012, 01:45 PM   #1495 (permalink)
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Old 10/15/2012, 04:37 PM   #1496 (permalink)
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Old 10/15/2012, 04:39 PM   #1497 (permalink)
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I'm more excited for this than going to the dyno this weekend.
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Old 10/22/2012, 09:12 PM   #1498 (permalink)
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Any idea how to correct this issue without dragging the entire engine down to a machine shop? 6G74 lower intake manifold on a non-mivec 6g75. Lower portion does not meet flush with the heads. I'm very worried about an intake leak.



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Old 10/22/2012, 09:16 PM   #1499 (permalink)
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This happens way more than anyone thinks, I had both my heads and lower manifold decked and I leaked there too. Use some silicone RTV (just a smear) on either side of the lower manifold gaskets when you install it. It will eliminate any leak. I've done this on my motor and others with great success.
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Old 10/22/2012, 09:40 PM   #1500 (permalink)
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RTV sealant? The gap is .013 (.33mm) Isn't machining the only answer when the gap is that big?
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