Tuning and ECU Flash

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Doc8224

That is not bad. take into account that the faster you get in the quarter the harder it will be to get faster (if that makes sense...) What I mean is 25whp got you three tenths in the quarter in the 16sec range, 25whp for me in the 13 sec range will shave less time off. you are working with the right people for tuning that thing but If you get serious about more power, focus on the airflow into the motor, i.e head work, manifold porting or swapping. That is where I have seen the biggest gains. keep working on it, am glad to see a lot of people on here are not afraid to go to the dyno's AND beat it up a little on the strip.

Your 100% right, the way to increase HP/TQ is to increase the VE in the engine. That means head work, CAMs, CAI with good high flow filter, bigger manifold & Throttle body(diamante), etc.. When it comes to tuning, we are just making sure there is enough fuel for the air coming into the engine. Also to organize the way the burn is done and how its done, thats pretty much it.

[Doc8224]

We are slowly working our way there. I am running about 13.2 AFR I am trying to get it down aroun 12.8 to 12.5 just seeing where my car likes to be at. I may have to bite the bullet and pay you for a good N/A tune since you guys are way ahead of me.

[LogicGate]

Sent you pm. Also share your findings working the AFR. That is the hardest part to tune and workout with ECUFlash.

[Doc8224]

the base N/A fuel tuning I have I arrived at by using EVOScan, I drive the car decent for a little bit 15-20 min. usual until my idle in drive is where I set it. Then I make 2k-6500rpm pulls IN SECOND GEAR! as there is no need to be making 100+mph pulls on the highway just to tune. The i pull up the log graphs in evoscan and look at knock sum, 02 voltage, throttle position, ecu load, engine speed and timing advance. The problem I am running into with my tune is as soon as I floor it the timing drops off a little too much and gives me 1 knock, like wise it takes about 250-500 rpm for the afr to right itself to where I want it. I beileve this can be panned out using the accel enrichment but logic will have to explain that because i don't know how to use that part yet, I watch for knock, ecu load and timing advance to be hit their marks and stay there, (yes I am still using a narrow band 02 for the moment and I know its not the best but it gets me close. the wideband is on the way. before anyone jumps on me for that.) the goal with the 02 voltage is for it to hit the afr you want as fast as possible and stay there under 93%ecu load and up. my current tune has me running a .917 voltage on the 02 witch translates to about 13.1-13.3 AFR. I have zero knock from 2600-6800rpm My ecu makes a smooth sloop from 97%@2000rpm all the way up to 103%@5500rpm and settles back down to 96%all the way to 6800. timing advance is currently at what I feel is a conservative 22-28 during my pulls. I have been tuning on this for only 2 weeks so it is definatly going to become a serious venture for me to get a Nasty N/A tune. With the defintion right (thanks logic) you can make 4 pulls open up the log graphs is evoscand and pull up your high octane ignition and high octane fuel maps an look where adjustments need to be made. U have to be able to use common sense and some serious calculating and understand that the ecu is picky little Bit*$ sometimes but study the graphs and make small adjustments at first and only to one map at a time so you know what does what. anyway ask questions lots of questions we are all here to help.

[FlashBlueRS]

I'm glad more of you are getting into tuning with Ecuflash. I find tuning the AFR is the easy part. Finding the right balance between AFR and timing is what's tricky. I tend to add more fuel to gain a few degrees of timing. 12.5-12.8 is about what I tune for. I had to pull too much timing to run 13.2.

I always wondered what the auto v6 put down stock. Thanks for posting those numbers. I was able to put down 150hp/150tq on a mustang dyno a few months ago. I had a bad 5-10 knock count through the whole pull because i tuned my car to the very edge on a much cooler day a week prior.

[Doc8224]

I should have done a before and after pull on the dyno but ooo well. I going to the dyno soon and I will put my stock tune in and run it then put the reflash in and see what numbers i get. Then I will drop a little timing and put the spray to it and see what I get there.

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by Doc8224

I should have done a before and after pull on the dyno but ooo well. I going to the dyno soon and I will put my stock tune in and run it then put the reflash in and see what numbers i get. Then I will drop a little timing and put the spray to it and see what I get there.

That's not the best way to get accurate before and after numbers. You have to give the ecu time to adjust it's trims before you do another pull. That takes a few miles of closed loop driving.

[Doc8224]

yea we always drive it on the dyno for a couple cylcles before we make each one.

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by Doc8224

yea we always drive it on the dyno for a couple cylcles before we make each one.

You don't get the proper airflow to keep the car cool doing that. You are just going to heat it up putting miles on the car on the dyno. It will skew the results.

[steadly2004]

Aren't they supposed to put that huge fan to help with that?

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by steadly2004

Aren't they supposed to put that huge fan to help with that?

it's no where near the air flowing through your radiator going down the road

[Doc8224]

not but I am not super rich and we rent the dyno by the hour so you have to do the best you can, and thats the best I can do. I do all the tuning on the street and then fine tune on the dyno. the temp never gets that much higher for me anyway.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Doc8224

the base N/A fuel tuning I have I arrived at by using EVOScan, I drive the car decent for a little bit 15-20 min. usual until my idle in drive is where I set it. Then I make 2k-6500rpm pulls IN SECOND GEAR! as there is no need to be making 100+mph pulls on the highway just to tune. The i pull up the log graphs in evoscan and look at knock sum, 02 voltage, throttle position, ecu load, engine speed and timing advance. The problem I am running into with my tune is as soon as I floor it the timing drops off a little too much and gives me 1 knock, like wise it takes about 250-500 rpm for the afr to right itself to where I want it. I beileve this can be panned out using the accel enrichment but logic will have to explain that because i don't know how to use that part yet, I watch for knock, ecu load and timing advance to be hit their marks and stay there, (yes I am still using a narrow band 02 for the moment and I know its not the best but it gets me close. the wideband is on the way. before anyone jumps on me for that.) the goal with the 02 voltage is for it to hit the afr you want as fast as possible and stay there under 93%ecu load and up. my current tune has me running a .917 voltage on the 02 witch translates to about 13.1-13.3 AFR. I have zero knock from 2600-6800rpm My ecu makes a smooth sloop from 97%@2000rpm all the way up to 103%@5500rpm and settles back down to 96%all the way to 6800. timing advance is currently at what I feel is a conservative 22-28 during my pulls. I have been tuning on this for only 2 weeks so it is definatly going to become a serious venture for me to get a Nasty N/A tune. With the defintion right (thanks logic) you can make 4 pulls open up the log graphs is evoscand and pull up your high octane ignition and high octane fuel maps an look where adjustments need to be made. U have to be able to use common sense and some serious calculating and understand that the ecu is picky little Bit*$ sometimes but study the graphs and make small adjustments at first and only to one map at a time so you know what does what. anyway ask questions lots of questions we are all here to help.

There is plenty of timing work to be done if your in the 22-28 deg. About the Accel Enrich. Check the How-To: Tuning post in the Eclipse Garage and check Flash's tutorial about EcuFlash. He sums everything up very well. Also there is some additional information about Accel Enrich I think, if not let me know so I can post something up for everyone about it.

When I install the 6g74 and go into using NOS I will have 2 different tunes, one for N/A and one for NOS. So that might be an approach you might consider.

[Doc8224]

yea i definatly want to go with 2 seperate tunes. i realy only wanted to tune for nitrous since I use all the time but you guys got me going on this N/A setup and now I am aching to see what we can get out of this thing. plus it will be good info for guys who are looking into head work and cams.

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

There is plenty of timing work to be done if your in the 22-28 deg. About the Accel Enrich. Check the How-To: Tuning post in the Eclipse Garage and check Flash's tutorial about EcuFlash. He sums everything up very well. Also there is some additional information about Accel Enrich I think, if not let me know so I can post something up for everyone about it.

When I install the 6g74 and go into using NOS I will have 2 different tunes, one for N/A and one for NOS. So that might be an approach you might consider.

I hit 38* advance. That's running 93 octane, meth injection, and 10:1 compression.

[Doc8224]

thats with the 4 cyl though isn't it? how much difference is the timing limits on the 4 than in the 6? Also logic I read up about that enrichment and I see what you guys are saying but I am just curious if you are talking 1% in whole numbers or decimals.

[Special_K]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

We really need an aftermarket trans cooler. My trans oil is getting to hot, specially in this heat wave and humidity here in Florida.

I am way ahead of you sir. Linky provided: HOW TO: Install a Tranny Cooler with Tranny Filter

I put mine in back in February and it has helped so much.

Ya, once it gets cooler and I get another tune loaded on my car, Ill pull out the rear seats, sub, random stuff, rear floor and spare tire. Then I will run again and not on a full tank of gas!

Someone made a comment about a high stall. Wish I could, but the main racing I do is Autocross and I really dont want to get bumped into a different class due to something like a high stall that doesnt help you in an event. There is only one or two small mods I can still do to stay in my class. No engine stuff.

[Devin01RT]

Ah gotcha, the High stall is really only for your launch anyways ..

I wouldn't see why they would even put you in a different class because of that, you can't even tell the difference between a regular torque converter and a high stall

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by FlashBlueRS

I hit 38* advance. That's running 93 octane, meth injection, and 10:1 compression.

Wow. With the knock problem with the GS/RS thats awesome. I have been working with one of the 3G club members with an RS/GS and he found alot of awesome information (his really determined to fix the problem, his awesome). The phantom knock seams to be a flaw in the filtering code in the Evo8 and RS/GS, and not mechanical issue.

I'm going to look to see if there is a practical solution to that problem, because the are certain harmonic frequencies that are normal in the engine operation that are being filtered as knock. He confirmed the knock as phantom knock after he took it to a tuner shop to have it checked. So this is an update for this issue.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Doc8224

thats with the 4 cyl though isn't it? how much difference is the timing limits on the 4 than in the 6? Also logic I read up about that enrichment and I see what you guys are saying but I am just curious if you are talking 1% in whole numbers or decimals.

Decimals, the software gives you the ability to increase 1% at a time. The only area you can't do that is in the timing maps.

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Wow. With the knock problem with the GS/RS thats awesome. I have been working with one of the 3G club members with an RS/GS and he found alot of awesome information (his really determined to fix the problem, his awesome). The phantom knock seams to be a flaw in the filtering code in the Evo8 and RS/GS, and not mechanical issue.

I'm going to look to see if there is a practical solution to that problem, because the are certain harmonic frequencies that are normal in the engine operation that are being filtered as knock. He confirmed the knock as phantom knock after he took it to a tuner shop to have it checked. So this is an update for this issue.

It has to be in the head because i have never experienced the phantom knock issues that i am seeing on these stock rs/gs's

[LogicGate]

If thats the case then what do you think we can do?? I was wondering if there is anyway to use some gaskets or some material where the sensor is screwed. I really don't know how it goes on the RS/GS, but if its similar to the GT/GTS I'm sure we can come up with a way to minimize it.

[FlashBlueRS]

I would just ignore it and tune the low octane maps a little more aggressive. You aren't going to hurt an NA car anyway.

[2kgteclass]

I would examine the routing of the knock sensor wiring, make sure its not near any interference sources and try to keep it from moving around but make sure it doesnt touch anything that gets hot. If it is left with slack it could move through another wires electric field causing false knock readings. Definitely keep it more than a couple inches away from the spark wires.

[cyberbrain]

I read something on evoM.net that some evo 8 guys get a diff knock sensor cause of false readings.

[benpgreen]

I am having a similar problem. I get a 36 knock sum whenever the turbo starts spooling under 2500 rpm, I have tried everything (diff gas, tune, looked for anything loose, I even listened to det cans while driving but cant find anything wrong. I have logs if it will help.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by benpgreen

I am having a similar problem. I get a 36 knock sum whenever the turbo starts spooling under 2500 rpm, I have tried everything (diff gas, tune, looked for anything loose, I even listened to det cans while driving but cant find anything wrong. I have logs if it will help.

what do you drive?

[benpgreen]

I have an 00 eclispe gs with evo turbo setup running the evo rom.

[Kobalt82]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Kobalt just to let you know, It won't take 30min like it is for the 01+ cars. It will probably take weeks.

The code is not the same, I will be watching the progress on the backward engineering of the code.

Having any luck with this?

[LogicGate]

where having some problems with the scaling, which is "super" important. I can find the data, just can't scale it correctly. There is plenty of people working on this, not just us.

[Kobalt82]

Thanks for your help erep4u

[2kgteclass]

I got it finally!!

here is kobalts rom and def.

[LogicGate]

Again as I posted on the other thread. We are also currently looking into the GSX and VR4 roms to see if they can be used here, will find out soon enough.

[black02rt]

ok so i have ecu flash installed and running but when i bring it up it says "error loading FTD2XX.DLL" how do i fix this i tried installing it on my vista and xp media center computers with no avail

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by black02rt

ok so i have ecu flash installed and running but when i bring it up it says "error loading FTD2XX.DLL" how do i fix this i tried installing it on my vista and xp media center computers with no avail

Seams like the drivers that come with the software where not installed. Remove the software and reinstall with the cable connected to the PC. Hopefully that will solve your problem.

[black02rt]

o btw it is functional when editing roms but i read the tutorial and it said to make sure no error messages were present before you try to hook it up to your car and/or flash

[black02rt]

ok thanks a lot man i have one more prob i will list in a min just to make sure i know what i am doing before i edit the actual rom from my car

[Kobalt82]

Originally Posted by 2kgteclass

I got it finally!!

here is kobalts rom and def.

SWEET!!! Thanks
eRep4u

[black02rt]

ok so here is my last newbie question hopefully.....i have it up and running and when i bring up the values some come up as partial with dots like [95847..] and i was wondering why and how i can figure out what value it actuually is...here is a screen shot showing what i'm talkin about if you look in the top box values some are like that

[Kobalt82]

I think that is the issue people are having with the new version. Isn't there a fix posted in this thread already?

[black02rt]

Originally Posted by Kobalt82

I think that is the issue people are having with the new version. Isn't there a fix posted in this thread already?

i have no idea if so direct me to the page cause i thought i read this whole thread

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

It might not have taken care of it.....

This one was done by another member in the OpenECU.org site

Attachment 4255 I think he got all the settings done. I might have missed a few. Check it out and let me know to otherwise fix it.

here in page 2 of this thread.

[LogicGate]

Also to all of you that received free tuning services, please take a moment of your time and post your experience with the services. Feedback is always welcomed.

[Kobalt82]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Also to all of you that received free tuning services, please take a moment of your time and post your experience with the services. Feedback is always welcomed.

What free tuning service? I'll gladly post feedback somewhere for you if you tune my car

[black02rt]

yea i'm still having problems with the values and i updated my evo7meta data....i still have the dots on the data on the sides of the table anyone else have this problem/know how to fix it cause if i could tune my own ride i would be psyched

[black02rt]

took a lot of banging my head on the wall but finally started over with the install and meta data files and it worked thanks everyone for the help and hopefully i will be flashing soon.......

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by black02rt

took a lot of banging my head on the wall but finally started over with the install and meta data files and it worked thanks everyone for the help and hopefully i will be flashing soon.......

Great! Your on your way! If you need any other help post up.

[black02rt]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Great! Your on your way! If you need any other help post up.

hopefully i will be posting upabout how my tune is coming soon.....also anyone working on the other locked maps and/or the evo map unlocking on our ecus?

[LogicGate]

A quick bump to remind everyone if you need help with your tuning to post up and ask questions.

[Ithinkyou]

ok for starters is there a order to prioritize each factor when making adjustments. So far ive look in the order of
AirFlow/Rev
AFR
Timing
Load
RPM



I know for certain that approach has netted me about 6 hp and nearly double that on TQ. i got my GS dynod at 147hp 162 TQ. I made another flash in the ranges
AFR
3k - 5.5k
5 points down
Timing
3k - 5.5k
+2*

I can seriously feel the difference and suspect i broke 150hp. I was wondering what determines when the car uses the low and/or hi octane map. I ask only because modding the hi oct map bumped me from 144 to 147 and then 145. Which in turn doubled my knock. So i flashed back to the 147 flash. Modding the low octane map has made a big difference in feel and halfed my knock. But reading logicgate's how to mentioned to try and keep the low map rich.
My Laptop is too new and only has USB ports so i still havent figured out how to get evoscan to read my AFRs from my zietronix. I even got a Serial to USB adapter but no luck. =( On the 3rd gear pull nettin the 147. I noticed the load peaked when the AFR leaned out the most at 13.6. The timing moves opposite of the AFR arcs. It also looked to me that the Airflow was closely related to the RPMs and the the load. So i added an leaned fuel accordingly. In the second rom so am i reading the data correctly and what am i missing or overlooking??

Im also looking for an opinion of a trained eye or 2. Oh an the roms are titled as such because i wanted to have my N/A setups named compared to my turbo ones.

This is the 147 pull

This is afterwards im pretty confident i mades some gains and lowering the knock was reassuring also. But my GTech is acting up so i cant even get a general idea yet. >(

[LogicGate]

When there is knock the ECU looks into the Low Maps for reference data. So keep an eye on the Knock Sum values. The maps look actually pretty stock, based on what we have gathered some RS/GS suffer from phantom knock which is not real knock but affects your performance and the way the ECU reacts to tunes. So you need to determine if you have phantom knock and if so you need to be more aggressive with your Low Maps (timing and fuel).

Try to remove the knock (if its not phantom knock), then work in advancing your Timing since that will increase your HP and TQ. In Fuel aim for 12.8-12.5 AFR. Also work with the Accel Enrich, to increase engine response and shift response.

[Ithinkyou]

ok so i got another question. When trying to get the ecu to hit a certain AFR a long time ago i envisioned a super high rez map. So the spaces between would get referenced. I still see that problem and wanted some more opinions.

Also notice the first 9 load columns. They did the same on the last 9 rpm ranges. I know how to hexedit the data in i was just wondering if anybody else has thought of doing this. I was told i was probably overwriteing or shifting data which i thought to. But i didnt have a WB at the time so i didnt get around to it. But is it true that theres a 100% capped subroutine in the 3g maps compared to the evo flash?

Anyway, I feel like a map like this would or Should in theory allow the ECU to find its "happy place" better depending on where the factors are at that moment of course. Ive read the ECU interpolates are jumps back an fourth when its trying to hit a value between to cells. Thats what got me thinkin. Especially once i saw my AFR still being quite bumpy.

[brick]

Two questions:

1) Does anyone know the formula for load calc in evoscan?

2) Has anyone tried to get the 2 byte Load in evoscan to work?
Been reading on evolutionm.net about it. They say it is more accurate then load calc. Here is couple of the links. link, link, and link. It explains some of it. But i need help with getting the MUT Table to patch my rom. For it to work.

I posted it in this thread because this is key for tuning.

Thanks for any help.

[FlashBlueRS]

Originally Posted by brick

Two questions:

1) Does anyone know the formula for load calc in evoscan?

2) Has anyone tried to get the 2 byte Load in evoscan to work?
Been reading on evolutionm.net about it. They say it is more accurate then load calc. Here is couple of the links. link, link, and link. It explains some of it. But i need help with getting the MUT Table to patch my rom. For it to work.

I posted it in this thread because this is key for tuning.

Thanks for any help.

You only need 2-byte load if you are exceeding 160% load, which you are not. Also, load calc is usless until you exceed 160% load as well. It is very inaccurate until then. You should be able to see the formula in evoscan when you are looking at the parameters. The only load you should be logging is ecu load.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Ithinkyou

ok so i got another question. When trying to get the ecu to hit a certain AFR a long time ago i envisioned a super high rez map. So the spaces between would get referenced. I still see that problem and wanted some more opinions.

Also notice the first 9 load columns. They did the same on the last 9 rpm ranges. I know how to hexedit the data in i was just wondering if anybody else has thought of doing this. I was told i was probably overwriteing or shifting data which i thought to. But i didnt have a WB at the time so i didnt get around to it. But is it true that theres a 100% capped subroutine in the 3g maps compared to the evo flash?

Anyway, I feel like a map like this would or Should in theory allow the ECU to find its "happy place" better depending on where the factors are at that moment of course. Ive read the ECU interpolates are jumps back an fourth when its trying to hit a value between to cells. Thats what got me thinkin. Especially once i saw my AFR still being quite bumpy.

I got your pm but your inbox is full so. To answer you and also something that most people might not no by now is that the AFR done by the ECU is always a little jumpy because of the interpolation between low and high. If you datalog the AFR vs knock you will see that whenever there is knock there is a shift in the AFR. FlashBlueRS has explained that if the knock is "phantom knock" you can be more aggressive on the low maps to keep the AFR from becoming to rich. Also the timing is affected so you would need to also be more aggressive on the low timing maps. The new EvoScan comes with a MapTracer that works pretty well, which allows to see where the ECU was in reference on the maps when the datalog was made. Advancing the timing is good for making power, but most importantly is the AFR and knock. These two will dominate how and where the power is made. Since the ECU its not like an aftermarket EMS you need to play with the Fuel Maps to get it where they should be and the knock to keep it working "the way YOU want it to be". Also I recommend searching Dyno sheets for the GS stock and analyze the VE (volumetric efficiency with always equals max TQ) to improve the performance. Feel free to add guys anything I might over looked or any other better approach.

[LogicGate]

I wanted to post a little update to what people have been doing with their tunning. I have seen some tunes from some individuals that have inceased the timing as far as almost 50deg! Let me state again and make sure people understand advancing timing will increase HP/TQ but can also decrease HP/TQ. YOUR GOAL IS TO REACH MAX PEAK COMBUSTION PRESSURE AT 15deg AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER!!! NOT INCREASE YOUR TIMING TO SOME CRAZY NUMBERS!

Without no doubt increasing the timing to extreme levels can cause engine surge and also damage your engine for no good reason. You MUST remember that to gain the most of each piston stroke you must tune the timing not to a large number but to the point where it will provide the best pressure in the cylinder. Also I have noticed people increasing their timing from 70% up in load while there is nothing wrong with that, you must concentrate also in the REST of the table! There is no point on having a jump in TQ/HP for only 500rpms when you can achieve it best throughout the entire load and rpm range. You have to also pay attention to the low load and rpm where you can also increase the timing.

In low rpm/load there is little VE (volumetric efficiency) which means you will also need a good amount advance timing. The optimal amount of timing advance varies inversely with volumetric efficiency because denser mixtures burn faster and require less lead time to achieve the 15 deg peak.


Imagen(which means DONT TRY IT) you inflate a balloon with gasoline gas and set it on fire. It will create a flame which will consume the entire gas in a give amount of time. The flame will flow from bottom to top consuming the gas. This is the same principle but in a contained environment between the head and the piston. You have to make sure the flame is compressed and reaches the maximum amount of pressure after TDC (top dead center) at 15 deg ATDC (after top dead center). When working with the timing always ALWAYS keep that in mind, and people STOP advancing your timing like if the more timing you have will equal more HP/TQ because THAT is not true.

Hope your all enjoying your Holidays and working on your cars!

[Ithinkyou]

the excessive timing part ive gathered readin around on the net. Ive been wanting to address the lower load rpm ranges. How do you determine how good am i doing on producing peak cylinder pressure. EGT readings Ive been guessing dont really wanna drill my stock mani of the stock evo mani. Even though im thinking its inevitable.

PM sent Logic

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Ithinkyou

the excessive timing part ive gathered readin around on the net. Ive been wanting to address the lower load rpm ranges. How do you determine how good am i doing on producing peak cylinder pressure. EGT readings Ive been guessing dont really wanna drill my stock mani of the stock evo mani. Even though im thinking its inevitable.

PM sent Logic

Pm'd you back. Good luck with your new phase of your project. The low rpms 500rpm to 2,000rpm usually go from 20 to 28deg for a good 15deg peak pressure. You have to consider the size of the cylinder and how long it takes to burn since its different between engines (V6, V8, etc). Take your car to a dyno and do some runs to determine the happy degree and AFR for that area. Its very tricky and takes a few attempts as everything else. You can also take advantage and work on the AFR before you go to the dyno and then at the dyno work on the timing. Butt dyno is not very accurate

I also wanted to let everybody with a RS/GS know that if you suffer from phantom knock or excessive knock to use a good amount of "TEFLON" tape on the threads of the knock sensor. It will not affect the real knock readings at all but will isolate valve train frequencies from filtering as knock and help isolate the real knock frequencies. It is not 100% percent proof but will help tremendously. I reached the conclusion that the phantom knock is due to the valve train frequencies that filter into the sensor. People with DOHC heads don't suffer from phantom knock anywhere as close to the problem with GS/RS heads because of the difference in the valve train. I hope this helps clear that up for many with this problem.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Pm'd you back. Good luck with your new phase of your project. The low rpms 1000rpm to 3,000rpm usually go from 20 to 28deg for a good 15deg peak pressure. You have to consider the size of the cylinder and how long it takes to burn since its different between engines (V6, V8, etc). Take your car to a dyno and do some runs to determine the happy degree and AFR for that area. Its very tricky and takes a few attempts as everything else. You can also take advantage and work on the AFR before you go to the dyno and then at the dyno work on the timing. Butt dyno is not very accurate

I also wanted to let everybody with a RS/GS know that if you suffer from phantom knock or excessive knock to use a good amount of "TEFLON" tape on the threads of the knock sensor. It will not affect the real knock readings at all but will isolate valve train frequencies from filtering as knock and help isolate the real knock frequencies. It is not 100% percent proof but will help tremendously. I reached the conclusion that the phantom knock is due to the valve train frequencies that filter into the sensor. People with DOHC heads don't suffer from phantom knock anywhere as close to the problem with GS/RS heads because of the difference in the valve train. I hope this helps clear that up for many with this problem.

Edited:
Note Another benefit also from working on the low timing map area (load/rpm) is that you will benefit of better MPG on your vehicle.

[Ithinkyou]

So does the ECU try to stay in the high map or the low map. Or is it dependent on various factors. ie: i remember you mentioned it switches to low when theres knock detected which makes me conclude it tries to stay on the high map.... yeah