Tuning and ECU Flash

[LogicGate]

Post Edited and moved to:
How to: Tune using ECU Flash and other tuning informatoin

Updated Post with Quick Overall information:

Here is a post I did on the 2gstratus with all the files and things all put together somewhat like a how-to but without the tuning stuff.

************************************************** *********
Tuning and ECU Flash

Important Information

Disclaimer:

In tuning there are no guarantees. Tuning can be dangerous and cause your engine to fail or damage, harm to your self and others, including death. There is always a cost, but when things are done safely and realistically you can achieve great results too. This will also technically void your warranty if you visit the Dealership and they check your ECU for codes. Before you go to a dealership always flash the original rom into the ECU.

Things you will need:

* OpenPort 1.3M Cable sold at tactrix
* ECU Flash Program (free) found at Main Page - OpenECU
-Direct Downloads:
-EcuFlash 1.28 = http://www.mediafire.com/?zzmmzndximy
-EcuFlash 1.29a = http://www.mediafire.com/?g3mzzijvznw
-EcuFlash 1.30 = http://www.mediafire.com/?mtczyymntym
-EcuFlash 1.31 = http://www.mediafire.com/?onmrje22zei
* Datalogger Software = Allows us to log and monitor all sensor information from your vehicle.
- Mitsulogger (Free) Download link: Mitsulogger 1.6 Alpha
- EvoScan ($$$) sold at EvoScan OBDII Mitsubishi MUTII DataLogger Scantool

* Read/Remove Codes, log basic sensors and much more
- ScanTech OBDII Gen Software (Free) for Tactrix Cable Download Link: ScanTechOBDII for the Tactrix


Required Files before you attempt anything

How to Use ECU Flash Tutorial (You MUST download, read and also view the video)
* ECU Flash Tutorial (Made by FlashBlueRS) = http://www.mediafire.com/?mmzykwji2ym
* ECU Flash Video = YouTube - How-to flash your Evo ecu using ecuflash
* Definition Files = Download Definition Zipped File
- Download and unzip. Go to "C:\Program Files\OpenECU\ECUFlash\"
- Rename "rommetadata" folder inside the ECUFlash folder to "backup"
- Copy and Paste the "rommetadata" folder from the zip file
- Restart the software to allow the new definitions to take effect. You done!
* Mitsubishi and Other Roms = Various ROMs

Compatible ECUs

Currently with the latest version of ECU Flash 1.34 we are only able to flash:

*68MC Motorola based ECUs
*SH7 Hitachi Based ECUs

We are currently able to download but not flash back:

*H8 Hitachi Based ECUs

**If I'm missing any Processor Family post them up so I can update it

I don't know exactly which Stratus Years that are actually flashable but:

* If your car is a Cali Spec:
- Has 2 pre-cats and 2 O2 sensors(Front and Back of the engine) before them on the exhaust manifold.
- Your odds are that you have a currently supported Processor that we can Flash.

* If your car is Fed Spec:
- Has no pre-cats and no O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold.
- Might have a Processor which currently supports only downloading the ROM. But still not flashable

If your one of the happy lucky people your in for a treat and some fun.

How does it work?
The ECU uses a memory called EEPROM which stands for electrically erasable programmable read-only memory. It was implemented in some early model cars in 1994 and eventually was standardized in 1996 on the OBDII which is the current standard on all our vehicles. This is a system requirement for the sole purpose of emission control and updates. Not to make us more happy.

The ECU Flash program communicates with the Processor of the ECU to request a dump of the content of the EEPROM through the OBDII communication port. The software receives the data which is the ROM and allows us to modify it and change it as we see fit. Then once we are done doing changes, the software allows us to contact the Processor and activates the ECU to allow is to Flash into the EEPROM the rom we just modified. Once your done flashing the ROM into the EEPROM it will stay in the memory for the life and existence of your ECU no matter how many times you remove your battery from your car.

Its called "Flashing" because the way the memory chip works is like the film of a camera. When light hits it, there is a chemical reaction that cause it to capture the image, then it goes through a process to retain that image. The same thing happens with this chip but in electronic form. Once its developed like the film it never changes unless you damage it physically, in this case with this chip electronically (short circuit or damaging the chip physically, but they can also be replaced )

How does the ECU Flash knows where the data is and modifies it?

The ECU Flash uses a file called a definition file. This file is created by a developer that knows where the data we need to modify is located in the ROM. Once the software knows where the data is and what it is, it allows us to view the data in a format we can understand (%, Air/Fuel Ratios, etc). The software uses this information and then through a mathematical process which it calculates everytime you open and modify the data. It translates it back and forth between modifications back into binary code which you can flash back into your ECU's EEPROM.

Engine Tuning Theory
"To tune an engine effectively, you will need to understand the theory of Volumetric efficiency, burn rate, spark advance, air/fuel ratios, temperature, air-pressure, detonation, and fuels" (Jeff Hartman, 2003)


Here is a video from Innovate Motorsports which talks about their LM-1, Tuning Theory and others. ( Innovate Videos :: Engine Tuning Resources )

Volumetric Efficiency:
Is the ability of an engine to introduce air into the combustion chamber. The more air we can introduce into the chamber the more fuel we can inject and generate more power. Peak torque occurs at the engine speed and loading at which an engine is most efficient at ingesting air into the cylinders. Therefore, peak torque is also peak volumetric efficiency or VE.

Fuel Burn Rate:
Is the rate at which the Fuel Burns inside the chamber. It has been studied and found that the fuel burns the fastest at 11.1:1 (AFR).

Spark Advance:
Is which is optimally timed to achieve best torque by producing peak cylinder pressure at about +/-15 degrees ATDC (after top dead center piston position), increase octane requirements by a half to three-quarters of an octane number per degree of advance. Spark advance also increases cylinder pressure and allows more time for detonation to occur.

Air/Fuel Ratios (AFR):
Ideally, air/fuel ratio should vary not only according to loading but also according to the amount of air present in a particular cylinder at a particular time (cylinder VE). Richer AFR combat knock by the intercooling effect of the cooling heat of vaporization of liquid fuels and a set of related factors. The volatility of fuels affect not only octane number requirements but drivability in general. The chemically ideal AFR mixture, at which all air and gasoline are consumed in combustion occurs with 14.68 parts air and 1 part fuel, which is rounded to 14.7. This ratio is referred to as "stoichiometric" or "stoich".

At high loading and wide-open throttle. richer mixtures give better power by making sure that all air molecules in the combustion chamber have fuel present to burn. At wide-open throttle, where the objective is maximum pwer, all four-cycle gasoline engines require mixtures that fall between lean and rich best torque, in the 11.5 to 13.3 gasoline range. Since this best torque mixture spread narrows at higher speeds, a good goal for naturally aspirated engines is 12.0 to 12.5, perhaps richer if fuel is being used for combustion cooling in a turbo/supercharger engine.

Typical mixtures giving best drivability are in the range of 13.0 to 14.5 gasoline-air mixtures, depending on speed and loading.

Temperature:
Inlet air temperature increases octane requirements by 0.5 octane number per 10 degree increase. Temperature affects fuel performance in several ways. Colder air is denser than hotter air, raising cylinder pressure. Colder air inhibits fuel vaporization. But hotter air directly raises combustion temperatures, which increases the possibility of knock.

Air-Pressure:
Increasing altitude reduces octane number requirements by about 1.5 octane numbers per 1,000 feet above see level.

Detonation:

When an engine knocks or detonates, combustion begins normally with the flame front burning smoothly through the air/fuel mixture. But under some circumstances, as pressure and temperatures rise as combustion proceeds, at a certain point, remaining end gases explode violently all at once rather than burning evenly. This is detonation, also referred to by mechanics and tuners as knock or spark knock.

Preignition: It is another form of abnormal combustion in which the air/fuel mixture is ignited by something other than the spark plug, including glowing combustion chamber deposits, sharp edges or burrs on the head or block, or even overheated spark-plugs electrode. Heavy, prolonged knock can generate hot spots that cause surface ignition, which is the most damaging side-effect of knock. Surface ignition that occurs prior to the plug firing is called preignition, and surface ignition occuring after the plug fires is called post ignition. The preignition opposes the pressure generated by the piston resulting in power loss, engine roughness, and severe heating of the piston crown.
* Understanding Detonation is extremely important. To learn and gain more information please click on the following link Detonation vs. Pre-Ignition



Some Sources
*How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) by Jeff Hartman
*Car Hacks and Mods for Dummies by David Vespremi
*Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish

[LogicGate]

Moved to original post.

[steadly2004]

Hey, I am going to be jumping headfirst into tuning my car, and need to hook up my AEM wideband to the laptop. I just tonite, purchased a laptop, installed ECU FLASH, and purchased EVOSCAN. Also, purchased a Tactrix cable, which should arrive by Friday, hopefully.

I have looked on EVOM, and all I can see to hook-up the wideband is a vague description on wiring the wideband into a serial cable. Have you hooked it up before? What would you suggest doing to get the wideband readings in evoscan?

[LogicGate]

AEM UEGO has good instructions on how to wire the RS232 connection. It should be only 2 wires. Let me try to get them for you... Still post what kind of AEM Wideband you have.

[steadly2004]

Its the AEM UEGO... but I dont' know if there is any more specific model.

[jakea333]

Originally Posted by steadly2004

I have looked on EVOM, and all I can see to hook-up the wideband is a vague description on wiring the wideband into a serial cable. Have you hooked it up before? What would you suggest doing to get the wideband readings in evoscan?

This thread had a bit of information regarding hooking up the wideband. It seems pretty simple, only two wires as Logic said.

[steadly2004]

I found the install PDF for the wideband, and it does seem pretty simple.


http://eclipse.erichmoraga.com/AEM/i...es_30-4XXX.pdf

[QUOTE]When connecting to a third party EFI system, the AEM UEGO gauge’s WHITE Analog
Output wire shall be connected to the third party analog sennsor input of that system. Consult
the documentation provided with the system for detailed instructions.

Serial Output
The serial output can be used for data logging when an EFI system is not accessible.
To run the data stream, a RS-232 (DB-9) Female receptacle shall be purchased.

Two wires need to be connected to a RS-232 serial port. The BLUE wire from the AEM UEGO Gauge shall be connected to Pin #2 (RX) on the serial port for receiving data.in # 5 (GND) on the serial port shall be grounded. If a standard 9-pin serial cable is to
be cut instead, the (RX) wire is typically RED and the (GND) wire is typically GREEN.
owever, this should be confirmed with a continuity tester before attempting.[quote]

[LogicGate]

Updated original post with more information. Thats great!! Thanks for posting the link too!!

[quiksilver]

Is one cable better than the other? Evoscan vs Openport?

[LogicGate]

EvoScan is a datalogger and Tactrix cable (OpenPort) is the cable we use to download and flash the rom. We also use the the cable to datalog along with the EvoScan. The software we use to Flash the rom is ECUFlash and its free.

[LogicGate]

Added Tuning Video Link to Original post in the Tuning Theory Area

[LogicGate]

Updated Working Fuel Map and Timing. Also Updated valuable information at the beginning of the Tuning process. Review Tuning Practices!! Thanks

[LogicGate]

Is anyone finding this usefull?? Is this helping at all? Let me know! plz! thnx

[cszink]

quicksilver and I will let you know after this weekend.

[LogicGate]

I'll try to finish it as soon as possible then Also I can give you guys a baseline contact me through IM or PM me.

[00TampaBlueGS]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Is anyone finding this usefull?? Is this helping at all? Let me know! plz! thnx

YES! +Rep'd

I saw this thread at the beginning of the week, but only now opened to find "the goods". I guess I'd blown it off as just another ECU Flash thread, but I like how you're breaking down the mechanics behind tuning.

Will follow, and possibly contribute (in some small manner).

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by 00TampaBlueGS

YES! +Rep'd

I saw this thread at the beginning of the week, but only now opened to find "the goods". I guess I'd blown it off as just another ECU Flash thread, but I like how you're breaking down the mechanics behind tuning.

Will follow, and possibly contribute (in some small manner).

Thanks dude that really motivates me to finish! Thanx!!!

[Jambolito]

yeah, ive been reading, just not talking, since i still dont have the cable or anything its kinda hard to relate, but Im very interested, and anxiously await updates

[NC[Spyder]GT]

I must spread rep before giving it to Logic again....

Very useful stuff Logic! I'm sure I will dive back into the tuning/logging once/if I get my car out of the shop. I still have to find the source of my wideband AFRs not being logged under EvoScan first though This info is gold! Keep it coming!

[steadly2004]

Loved the video link! love the information!

Does this seem correct to you? *edit: WON"T WORK*

I still don't quite understand how to wire it straight up to the USB cord. I know that you wire the serial cable BLUE (0-5V) to pin 2, and ground out pin 5.

With a USB, there are 4 connections,

1 (red wire) = VCC... power
2 (white) = D-
3 (green) = D+
4 (black) = ground

So, I guess that instead of grounding out pin #5, I will ground out the black wire on the USB cord. But for the signal, I am thinking it should be on the green, since its a posative signal? I hope thats right. I am not going to hook up the power wire.

[OrlandoGT]

Thanks for all the tuning help. When this is finish I'm going to retune my car from scratch for better results.

[2kgteclass]

You may wish to add something about the fuel trims. Such as how they can give an indication of the overall health of your fuel/air metering system as a whole. And if they go above or below a certain value that a code will be triggered. And that they do change from day to day making it virtually impossible to have a perfectly tuned car all the time. And how the injector and maf scaling can be used to adjust them.

Just a suggestion.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by steadly2004

Loved the video link! love the information!

Does this seem correct to you?

I still don't quite understand how to wire it straight up to the USB cord. I know that you wire the serial cable BLUE (0-5V) to pin 2, and ground out pin 5.

With a USB, there are 4 connections,

1 (red wire) = VCC... power
2 (white) = D-
3 (green) = D+
4 (black) = ground

So, I guess that instead of grounding out pin #5, I will ground out the black wire on the USB cord. But for the signal, I am thinking it should be on the green, since its a posative signal? I hope thats right. I am not going to hook up the power wire.

There is no way to wire it directly to a USB without converting it. The easiest way is to wire it to a RS232 connector that you can buy at RadioShack. Then buy a COM Port to USB port connector and install the driver to make it work like a com port.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by 2kgteclass

You may wish to add something about the fuel trims. Such as how they can give an indication of the overall health of your fuel/air metering system as a whole. And if they go above or below a certain value that a code will be triggered. And that they do change from day to day making it virtually impossible to have a perfectly tuned car all the time. And how the injector and maf scaling can be used to adjust them.

Just a suggestion.

Very true. What has me worried is the EGT temps information I haven't posted, which is super important. Let me gather some information before I post. Remember guys check the sources I posted for even more detail information.

[LogicGate]

Added Detonation and, Pre and Post ignition information. Also the new EvoScan v1.0 is now able to read the EGT information during Datalogging. I haven't checked the Mitsulogger to see if it has the feature. You need to monitor EGT temperature during AFR tuning. Will update process with the EGT information and data.


Guys feel free to ask for certain information to be posted. Pictures or examples. Give your opinions too! Feed back is always welcomed!

[00TampaBlueGS]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Added Detonation and, Pre and Post ignition information.

Well, dang it! That's the sort of info I was going to attempt to contribute. You may want to link the following thread.
Detonation vs. Pre-Ignition
I found it a good read on the topic.

[gts03eclipse]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

Is anyone finding this usefull?? Is this helping at all? Let me know! plz! thnx

Dude, this is great information!! Now I do not even begin to know the first about tunning a car, but you break it down so well that even I could learn a lot from this thread! erep
You did the same for the greddy ti-c when you wrote your review for it, it was extremely helpful and you alone sold me on the exhaust!! Btw, its being shipped from Tearstone as we speak!!
Great job Logic!!

[steadly2004]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

There is no way to wire it directly to a USB without converting it. The easiest way is to wire it to a RS232 connector that you can buy at RadioShack. Then buy a COM Port to USB port connector and install the driver to make it work like a com port.

You're right, I purchased the cable from radioshack, and it actually is a device itself with drivers which emulate an extra COM port. Unfortunately the RadioShack cable isn't Vista compatible, so I ordered one online. I have to take the radioshack one back.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by steadly2004

You're right, I purchased the cable from radioshack, and it actually is a device itself with drivers which emulate an extra COM port. Unfortunately the RadioShack cable isn't Vista compatible, so I ordered one online. I have to take the radioshack one back.

Its great you got the parts and sucks they are not compatible with Vista. I have the most expensive Vista and I dont use it at all. I'm so happy with XP Pro and Ubuntu. Everything works Good luck with the little project. Its a pretty cool one.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by 00TampaBlueGS

Well, dang it! That's the sort of info I was going to attempt to contribute. You may want to link the following thread.
Detonation vs. Pre-Ignition
I found it a good read on the topic.

Wow that information makes mine look like a joke Great information. Is so important to understand detonation when tuning. Thanks!!! I will post this link now.

Edited:
Added link! Thnx again!

[LogicGate]

Added Analyzing the Data Section

[LogicGate]

Running out of ideas, post some information requests!

[Dragon34x]

Hey, i read over your posted info, one thing that I gotta point out to ya is:

Timing is the most important thing overall, you DO NOT want to lean out the air/fuel ratio's before advancing timing. . . .I guarantee you that you will not get any where near as much power if you lean out first.

Also the more timing you run, the lower the EGT's will be.

[steadly2004]

How do you figure MoreTiming=lower EGT?

I am just wondering, because I thought that the temperature the fuel burned was directly related to the air/fuel ratio, it is a chemical property of the fuel. I am not trying to contradict you DRAGON, I just strive to understand.

[MattS00]

I'm no expert, but this is the way I understand it. If I am wrong please let me know. More advanced timing allows for more of the fuel being burnt before the exhaust valve opens. This is for 3 reasons: the fuel mixture burns faster under higher pressures, all the molecules are closer together so they burn more clompletely, and there is more time for everything to be burnt.

Now if you retard the timing, the flame front will still be advancing as the exhaust valve opens. This means you will have a burning flame front passing over the EGT sensor, which will give higher readings.

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by Dragon34x

Hey, i read over your posted info, one thing that I gotta point out to ya is:

Timing is the most important thing overall, you DO NOT want to lean out the air/fuel ratio's before advancing timing. . . .I guarantee you that you will not get any where near as much power if you lean out first.

Also the more timing you run, the lower the EGT's will be.

I understand your point of view. Because stock fuel maps are so rich and we loose power because of rich levels we usually lean, I'll explain. When I mean lean I'm talking leaning to between 11.8 to 13.1 which is guaranteed to increase power always. Then once the fuel is right we attempt to gain more power by optimizing the timing to have the peak pressure at 15 deg ATDC. It might take only a few or more deg. but you play between Fuel and timing to reach the sweet spot. You always need to go back and forth between Fuel Maps and timing, always. We start leaning first because we are closer to having the peak cylinder pressure at that 15 deg ATDC. In N/A this has been proven to be the best approach, but when we talk about FI then approach changes all together.

If you lean first vs. adv. timing it really doesn't matter because you need to go back to each table again and again until you get the max. The point is to reach a good AFR burn pressure at 15 deg. ATDC with a safe tune which normally is not the max. You can always get more and more, but at what cost.

About the EGT and timing, write some more information on why and how to add it with the EGT info I'll post thnx

[Dragon34x]

Tech Page

Exhaust Gas Temperature

those explain the "EGT to air/fuel" relation. . .

[Dragon34x]

BTW. . . check out the map i posted up on the other thread. . . .You'll see a relation between what you have read in those links posted up above and my tune. . .

[stilwrks]

Great info!

[malachi]

bump for good read later on.

[LogicGate]

More updates coming on Monday!

[2002_LXI]

awesome write-ups

[LogicGate]

I wanted to remind everyone that I'm doing the remote tuning to anyone that wants it at no charge for limited time. You will feel and see gains whether you have mods or not.

[LogicGate]

I'm working on analyzing the program Map Tracer to see if it works correctly for our cars. With this tool you can paste your Fuel and Timing maps, and have it brake down a datalog file into the maps and timing tables. This allows you to know where the AFR was in reference to load vs rpm in the maps. This will allow you to analyze the results quickly and visually, then do the modification in the areas that showed to have more activity.

EvoScan and Mitsulogger are working on having this software integrated, so this is a major improvement in aiding tuner's in gathering and analyzing the data. The Evo8 guys have been having fun with it for a while now so, lets see what we can do ever here.

[steadly2004]

I have a question about Detonation VS. Pre-Ignition. It says on the articles posted above that Detonation is after the spark, and Pre-Ignition is before. And Pre-Ignition is most likely at 180 degrees. My question is: Since our cars use the "wasted spark" which would it be considered if you have a detonation/preignition at 180 degree, since technically there would be a spark from the sparkplug?

Should the fact that our cars are "wasted spark" type of ignition, should that play a role in tuning? I assume not, but if you go way way to rich, there could potentionally be fuel left to ignite at the wrong time.

[LogicGate]

Do you mean waste spark as the spark that occurs 360° from the normal spark that fires the AFR? To be honest I didn't know we had it, I know some aftermarket EMS has the function.

[steadly2004]

OH, I am sorry, I forgot that you're a V-6, and I'm a 4cyl. We have 2 coil packs, and each time the coil fires, it sends spark to two spark plugs. 1-3 and 2-4 I believe. When cylinder 1 is at TDC, I think that 3 is either in the exhaust stroke, or at completely 360 (not sure if this is the correct offset) degrees. It continues throughout the 4 cylinders until it starts all over. So, everytime combustion occurs anywhere, a "wasted spark" is send to one without fuel.

[MattS00]

Originally Posted by steadly2004

OH, I am sorry, I forgot that you're a V-6, and I'm a 4cyl. We have 2 coil packs, and each time the coil fires, it sends spark to two spark plugs. 1-3 and 2-4 I believe. When cylinder 1 is at TDC, I think that 3 is either in the exhaust stroke, or at completely 360 (not sure if this is the correct offset) degrees. It continues throughout the 4 cylinders until it starts all over. So, everytime combustion occurs anywhere, a "wasted spark" is send to one without fuel.

The wasted spark will not cause pre-ignition, because the exhaust valve will be open when the spark plug fires and there will very little unburnt air/fuel left in the chamber. Pre-ignition usually happens early in the compression stroke when all valves are closed and the cylinder pressures are lower. The more the air/fuel charge is compressed the harder it is to light off by a hot spot in the chamber.

[LogicGate]

The guy knows his stuff

[steadly2004]

Thanks for clearing that up!

[LogicGate]

Updated Warning disclaimer. Please review before using this information for anything on your car.

[LogicGate]

For those interested in the baseline tune. This is what I will need from the Datalogger of your choice:
I will need these logged only:

* Airflow/Rev
* Engine RPM
* Timing Advance
* Load Calculated
* Injector Pulse Width
* AFR Map
* Knock Sum
* Wideband A/F Ratio - If you have one installed
* EGR

- Do a warm up.
- Rev to 2k for 2 sec. then WOT
- Datalog 2nd or 3rd pulls
- Provide me the list of mods you have
- Email me your Rom and Datalogs to alfredfontanez@hotmail.com

[LogicGate]

If you guys are interested or find this information useful ask the mods to turn it into a How-to for N/A Tuning with ECUFlash. Otherwise it will fade into history with the rest of the threads.

[brick]

Great info logic. Sent the request to one of the mods. I also sent you some info on the injector scaling and latency. But didn't see anything on here. If you do not want to post how to info in here, maybe just the link i sent would work.

[LogicGate]

I'm sorry I think I never got it. Send it again! That would be great information for those doing the 6G74 swap

[LogicGate]

Originally Posted by LogicGate

For those interested in the baseline tune. This is what I will need from the Datalogger of your choice:
I will need these logged only:

* Airflow/Rev
* Engine RPM
* Timing Advance
* Load Calculated
* Injector Pulse Width
* AFR Map
* Knock Sum
* Wideband A/F Ratio - If you have one installed
* EGR

- Do a warm up.
- Rev to 2k for 2 sec. then WOT
- Datalog 2nd or 3rd pulls
- Provide me the list of mods you have
- Email me your Rom and Datalogs to alfredfontanez@hotmail.com

Guys remember this is only for a short period of time. Also remember to provide me "all" the information posted with the items posted logged. I can not tune your car remotely if your missing one of those items (Wideband A/F Ratio is ok not to be included but if possible include it).

Thanks! Also read the original post and check out FlashBlueRS Tutorial for the ECUFlash. I will ask the mods to see if I can finish the post and copy it to the How-to section. This is an N/A tutorial, though it has information for both N/A and FI.

[cmartini101]

Man, this HAS to either be a how to or a stickie. This is some great info and I will definetly be using it when I try to tune my car. Keep up the good work!

[ace79603]

PM's logic

[LogicGate]

This upcoming week might be the last week I give free tuning so take advantage. You can still ask me questions and I will try my best to help out everyone. Also I will finish this information and move it to How-to for basic tuning N/A cars with ECUFlash. I have received information from everyone, I just haven't had time to put then in. I will do so this up coming week.

[LogicGate]

This week might be the last week I do free tuning so take advantage!

Also this week I will finish this post and all the information that was sent to me will be integrated into the post. I will move the information to a How-To with the title referenced to the content found here. I'm still welcoming inputs and data to be added so feel free to pm me. Hope everyone finds this informative and usefull for your future tuning.

**Moved to Original Post