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3rd Generation Eclipse FAQLast Modified: 08/22/2008 Version: 2.0 Table of contents:
Legal disclaimer
|
| 5spd GT | Auto GT | 5spd RS/GS | Auto RS/GS | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1st gear | 3.333 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 2nd gear | 2.105 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 3rd gear | 1.407 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 4th gear | 1.031 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 5th gear | 0.761 | --- | n/a | --- |
| Final | 3.74 | 3.74 | 3.72 | 4.04 |
| Reverse | 3.416 | n/a | n/a | n/a |
Wheelbase: 101"
Overall length: 175.4"
Overall width: 68.9"
Overall height: 51.8"
Cargo volume: 16.9 cubic feet
Passenger area volume: 78.0 cubic feet
Passenger area dimensions:
| Front | Back | |
|---|---|---|
| Legroom | 42.3" | 30.0" |
| Headroom | 37.9" | 34.9" |
| Hip room | 51.9" | 44.3" |
| Shoulder room | 52.2" | 52.0" |
The turning radius for the GT is 40'. Turning radius for the RS/GS is 35.4'.
For the GT:
' is degrees
Front Back Toe 0mm +/- 3mm 3mm +/- 3mm Caster 3'00" +/- 30" 0'00" +/- 9" Camber 0'00" +/- 30" -1'20" +/- 30"
The color code of your particular car can be found on some sort of sticker attached to the firewall. It's located near the edge of the intake plenum, on the passenger side. It has a mitsubishi logo on it at the top followed by several lines of text. On it, there is a line labeled "color trim". The 3 digits that follow are the color code for the paint on your car.
The following table contains a summary of paint colors available on the Eclipse, along with their respective paint code and the years that particular color was available on a vehicle.
| Color | Code | Years |
|---|---|---|
| Chrome Blue (Spyder only) | 2002+ | |
| Dover White Pearl | W69
| 2001+ |
| Flash Blue Pearl | B12
| 2002+ |
| Huntington Blue Pearl | T67
| 2000-2001 |
| Kalapana Black | X13
| 2000+ |
| Modern Metallic Blue | T67B
| 2000 |
| Monarch Green Pearl | G56
| 2000 |
| Northstar White | W12
| 2000 |
| Patriot Red Pearl or Primal Red Pearl | R70
| 2000+ |
| Saronno Red or Radiant Fire Red | R87
| 2000+ |
Sherwood Green Pearl | G41
| 2001+ |
| Steel Blue Pearl | T19
| 2003+ |
Sterling Silver Metallic or | A68
| 2000+ |
| Tampa Blue Pearl | T45
| 2000 |
| Titanium Pearl | H32
| 2002+ |
| Ultra Red Pearl | P06
| 2003+ |
The following table lists the theoretical speed of an Eclipse in each gear at 6200rpm, using the stock tires:
| Gear | Manual GT | Auto GT | Manual GS | Auto GS | Manual RS | Auto RS |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1st | 37.71 | 44.34 | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 2nd | 59.52 | 83.95 | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 3rd | 89.07 | 125.92 | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 4th | 121.93 | 172.50 | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| 5th | 165.25 | --- | n/a | --- | n/a | --- |
For the GT/GTS:
The stock tires on the GT are 215/50R17 Goodyear RSAs.For the GS:
The stock rims are 17x6.5 with an offset of +46mm and a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
The GS uses 16" wheels with a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.For the RS:
Other information not currently available.
The RS uses 15" wheels with a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
Other information not currently available.
The stock exhaust piping on the Eclipse GT is 2.25" in diameter.
No. The 3rd generation Eclipse is only available as a front wheel drive vehicle. For some reason, some dealerships list the vehicle as "Four Wheel Drive"; it is generally assumed that the person entering the information misinterpreted "FWD" as "Four Wheel Drive" as opposed to "Front Wheel Drive".
Replacing the stock intake with an aftermarket one is probably the easiest and most cost effective performance modification that can be currently done on the Eclipse. It's also the topic of many newbie conversations. The next series of questions in the FAQ should cover most newbie questions.
All of the intakes currently available offer the same power gains. There isn't one that is "better" with regards to power gains.
What is really boils down to is how much do you want to spend for what "quality" of intake? Generally the AEM is considered to be the highest quality intake available -- it's also by far the most expensive. The other intakes available are of similar quality with similar prices.
The work required to install each intake is very similar.
The CAI generally keeps the temperature of the air drawn into the engine about 20-25 degrees lower than the short ram. The temperature of the air taken into the engine also increases less than the WAI does at a stop.
What does this mean, in terms of performance? Generally, for each 10 degrees you drop in temperature, you gain an additional 1% in horsepower. This would mean the CAI would be putting roughly 3 more hp to the wheels than the short ram. Is it worth the extra cost? Well, that's up to you to decide.
This heavily depends on what region of the country you live in, and how paranoid you are. In order for a vehicle to hydrolock its engine, it must suck up a considerable amount of water, at least a liter. A drop or two of water isn't going to turn your engine into a very expensive paperweight, so in most cases, the need for it is a bit exaggerated. However, for those who wants to play it safe or live in regions where it rains often or have poor sewage system, it would be a worthwhile investment. For those who lives in dry states like Arizona or New Mexico, it's unnecessary.
Just about all of the intakes install the same way. There are a few minor differences between each version, but nothing significant. RRE has put together a few articles describing how to install the AEM and Injen intakes.
Some people have difficulty getting the rubber boot to fit over the throttle body. If you have trouble getting it to fit, try heating up the boot to expand it. This may make it easier to slide into place.
When installing the Injen intake, wrap a rubber hose around the battery tie down if you see the intake rubbing against it.
The beaded part of the MAS adapter needs to be cut off. This removes about a half inch of material from the adapter. If you purchased your bypass valve while ordering the AEM intake from RRE, this has already been done to your MAS adapter (they cut it for you).
The adapter itself can cover up to half of the bypass valve without effecting it's function. If more of it is covered up, it is not guaranteed to work when needed.
The spare tire will no longer fit on the front tires. It should still fit on the rear tires.
For the 2000 model year, Stant model 11501 can be used.
For the 2001 model year, things get to be more complicated. Not only did Mitsubishi change the cap between 2000 & 2001, they changed it from a threaded cap to a "quick on" cap at some point during the 2001 production year as well. Stant model 55104 or 11504 can be used to replace the threaded cap. As of this writing, Stant does not have a replacement for the "quick on" cap. You can also go into a Dodge dealership and ask for a locking gas cap which fits the 2001 Dodge Stratus R/T coupe -- Dodge should have both threaded and quick-on caps.
It is important to use the appropriate cap, as the thread pattern has changed on a number of occasions. If you use the wrong cap, the Check Engine light will activate.
No. The resonators present on the GT do not restrict exhaust flow. They just reduce the volume of the exhaust. They can be replaced with a straight pipe without any adverse effects to increase the exhaust volume if desired.
Installing a replacement rear swaybar is a rather simple procedure. The use of a jack to prop up the back is recommended, but not required. Installation is fairly straight forward, but there are a few things that may give the average person some trouble.
The biggest difficulty installing a replacement rear swaybar is removing the old one. The endlink bolts may be extremely difficult to remove due to rust. If removing them proves to be a problem, you can try spraying them with WD-40. Locking vice clamps and wrenches may prove to be useful. Do not attempt to heat the bolt -- the endlinks have a flexible joint with material that may melt when heated. If all else fails, you may have to cut the bolts off and replace them.
You may have clearance problems with the ST swaybar and HKS exhaust.
The ST swaybar is adjustable. The "soft" setting is comparable to the stock swaybar. The "firm" and "stiff" settings tighten the back more than the stock settings.
Removing the vehicle badging is pretty simple. They're held on with a strong adhesive, but they come off easily if you use a piece of dental floss to "saw" the badge off. Warming up the badge with a hair dryer may also help. The adhesive remaining on the paint can be taken off with something like Goo Gone.
The ECU in the Eclipse doesn't have a replaceable chip. This means that a chip replacement isn't possible in the traditional sense. It is possible to reprogram the ECU with a "Tactrix Cable" and downloading the rom with an application called "ECUFlash". There are no companies which will modify the stock ECU. However, this is a relatively new breakthrough for the 3G Eclipse and not much information is available. It should also be noted that this method of flashing the ECU only works for 2001+ Cali-Spec ECUs, which means 2000 Fed-Spec owners will have to swap their ECUs for a 2001+. In addition to that, there is a difference between the 2000-2002 and 2003+ ECU. According to TheFranchiseGT's findings:
- The 2003 GT(S) ECU contain extra circuits for variable intake (GTS only ECU) and Fuel Temperature Circuit.
- The 2000-2002 ECU contain an extra circuit for spark.
The connectors are the same, but the pin layouts are different due to the aforementioned differences. There have been claims that not all 2001+ ECUs are flashable; more information will be provided as new discoveries are made.
Pull the ABS fuse. This also (obviously) disables ABS as well.
The S-AFC is an Air/Fuel Computer made by Apexi. It allows you to alter the air/fuel mix by changing values that the car's computer reads or outputs.
There are two ways that the S-AFC can be installed, depending on which RPM fix you want to use. Installation for each method is identical, aside from the actual solution to clean up the RPM signal and which wire should be tapped for the RPM signal.
To install the S-AFC you need to be comfortable with splicing, soldering, and shrink wrapping wires. You're playing with signals sent to and from the car's ECU; "I think this is the right wire" isn't something you want to be saying to yourself while doing the install.
That being said, if you're patient and don't have problems working with a soldering iron, it's a pretty straightforward install.
RRE has put together some excellent tips on how to tune with the S-AFC. It isn't geared exclusively for the 3g, but it should have enough information to get you safely started.
If you turn the screw in, the engine will run richer. If you back the screw out, the engine will run leaner. No noticeable difference in performance will be noticed in a stock Eclipse by adjusting the MAF.
Adjusting the MAF screw changes how much air the computer in the car detects entering the engine, which in effect changes the air/fuel mixture entering the engine.
Every car is different. There isn't a fixed amount that you ought to turn it. If you really want to play with it, you should find some way to obtain O2 sensor readings. You want to lean out the mix until the O2 sensor is reading in the neighborhood of 0.9 volts. O2 sensors also tend to vary a bit, but on any sensor 0.9v should still be safe. You probably won't be able to turn the screw far enough to get readings that low. You'll need a device like an S-AFC to accomplish that.
Yes, stock rims 16" sold with the GS will be usable after installing the AEM big brake kit.
This is probably the most common newbie question. Of all of the mods currently available, there are three very good beginner mods available. If you are looking to increase engine performance, an aftermarket air intake is the best way to go (it doesn't really matter which one; all yield near identical performance gains). If you want to improve handing, the ST swaybar or RRE strut tower brace are very good modifications to make. All of these modifications are relatively inexpensive, can be installed in a weekend afternoon by a novice, and yield noticeable changes in performance.
Refer to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. SEMA has a good writeup covering the subject as well.
Essentially, what the law says is that the manufacturer must proof that an aftermarket part caused a particular problem in the vehicle to refuse warranty service.
That's what the law says. However, some dealerships are slippery eel like entities and try to slip out/shift blame/flat out refuse to uphold their end of the warranty if you changed anything on the car.
I'd suggest you ask one of the techs at your dealership their perspective on it, to determine if you'll have any headaches by performing modifications to your car. Then you can decide if 1) you think you'll have a problem with your car during the warranty period and 2) if it'd be worth fighting your dealership tooth and nail over if they're the slimy type.
Simply put, forced induction is a way forcing air/fuel into the combustion chamber by a means other than vacuum pressure. Normally, an engine sucks air into the engine. With forced induction, you push it into the engine -- this normally involves cramming in much more air than the engine could suck in on it's own.
NOS is Nitrous Oxide -- N2O. It is a gas which breaks down into it's
component elements at high temperatures -- Nitrogen and Oxygen. NOS isn't
technically a form of forced induction, but many of the principles are the same;
as such, it is included in this section of the FAQ.
There are three things NOS does:
NOS is made up of two nitrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. By weight, NOS is 36% oxygen. Ambient air has a lower percentage of oxygen. The nitrogen molecules break away from the oxygen molecules at ~572 degrees, which is achieved in the combustion chamber as the air/fuel mix is compressed. More oxygen by itself doesn't really give you anything aside from a cleaner burn. It does allow you to burn more fuel; by injecting more fuel with the NOS you'll see some serious power gains.
When NOS is injected, it is in a pressurized liquid form. As it is released it "boils", which dramatically reduces it's temperature (to about -130 degrees). This reduced temperature also effects surrounding air, possibly by as much as 70 degrees. The colder the air, the more power you make (about 1% more hp for each 10 degree temperature drop). This is also a decent power increase.
The nitrogen doesn't really increase power, however it does help prevent control the combustion process and helps prevent knock from developing.
By definition, a turbocharger, or in common slang, "Turbo", is an air compressor used for forced-induction of an internal combustion engine. Like a supercharger, the purpose of a turbocharger is to increase the mass of air entering the engine to create more power. However, a turbocharger differs in that the compressor is powered by a turbine driven by the engine's own exhaust gases. It has a snail shell-like appearance, and in most vehicles, sits directly below the exhaust manifold.
See also:
How Stuff Works has a pretty good article on the subject.
In most aftermarket turbo kits, the factory exhaust manifold(s) and downpipe is completely replaced. However, in the 3G Eclipse's case, there were some turbo kits made for the V6 models that still uses the factory exhaust manifold, but replaces the downpipe. One such kit was the Xtech kit, which is now currently no longer in production, and the only kit that is supposedly still in production is the Doug's Dyno Power kit.
A supercharger is an air compressor used for forced induction of an internal combustion engine. The greater mass flow-rate provides more oxygen to support combustion than would be available in a naturally-aspirated engine, which allows more fuel to be provided and more work to be done per cycle, increasing the power output of the engine.
The main difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger is that turbochargers are powered by the engine's exhaust gas, while the superchargers are powered mechanically by a belt, gear, shaft, or chain connected to the engine's crankshaft.
See also:
Theoretically yes, the factory exhaust manifold and downpipe will work with a supercharger, especially a roots-type setup. However, it is highly recommended to upgrade the factory exhaust components as they will greatly restrict the exhaust flow.
The main difference between a supercharger and a turbocharger is the way they make power. A turbocharger uses exhaust gas to turn its turbine, while a supercharger uses power from the engine (Through a pulley). While at first it seems like the turbocharger is more efficient at making power since it uses spent resources, they both have their advantages and disadvantages. Although the turbo is more efficient and does not "take power to make power", the pressure it generates is harder to monitor since it relies on the constantly changing exhaust gas velocity, meaning that it always produces varying pressure. A supercharger, on the other hand, uses power from the engine to create even more power. While this seems inefficient due to its parasitic nature, the pressure it generates is more consistent and does not sacrifice driveability. Neither is better than one or the other, but rather are choices available for certain end-user needs or criteria.
No. "Superchargers" based off of electric motors powered by the car's battery/alternator do nothing other than make a lot of noise. It has been well documented that these sorts of devices are a waste of money.
There is no "simple" engine swap available on the 3G Eclipse. The most commonly asked variation of this question is if the turbo engine from a 1g or 2g Eclipse could be swapped in. The engine in the 3g Eclipse is mounted "backwards" compared to other past models made by Mitsubishi, which makes it difficult if not impossible to swap older Mitsubishi engines into our car (This also applies to those that questioned if the 6G72 from a Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth will fit). The only engines that some members of Club3G have successfully swapped in with "minimal" work are the 6G74 (3.5L V6 from a '97-'05 Mitsubishi Diamante) and the 4G63 from the '03+ Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution.
The "complicated" answer to this question is "Yes", with the understanding that just about anything is possible with enough time and money. From a cost/performance standpoint, it probably wouldn't be worth it.
No. While the AC compressor is a belt operated device, when it is off it is not robbing the engine of any power. The AC compressor is controlled via a clutch like device; when the clutch is not engaged, the pulley spins freely -- while it does take energy to spin it, the amount is immeasurable. The clutch is engaged when the AC turns on, and only then does it rob power from the engine.
If you need to ask this question, leave the MAS honeycombs alone! They're designed to straighten out the airflow so the MAS can obtain accurate airflow readings.
Taking them out will reduce the air flowing over the MAS, which makes the readings inaccurate. A person with enough knowledge to be dangerous may reply "but all you're doing is reducing the airflow count, leaning out the engine a bit" -- which is correct to a certain extent. However, the inaccuracy introduced by doing this is not linear with flow. The errors aren't even constant with the same airflow. This is especially bad at low rpms; your car may not even be able to idle without stalling if you do this.
If you really know what you're doing, you can probably get away with removing the honeycombs and compensate for the errors by using a datalogger and tuning things with a S-AFC; but if you know enough to do that, you wouldn't need to ask this question in the first place.
Unfortunately, not much. There are only two options available: replace them with the OEM part (not a good option if you drive a lowered car) or you can modify the stock strut housing to hold a Koni front insert.
RRE has taken some pictures of the process. The DSM V-FAQ also has a good set of instructions on how to install the Koni inserts as well. It's not as scary as it sounds, but I highly recommend you have at least one person helping with this modification -- parts of the procedure are much easier if you've got another set of hands.
ForesterGT came up with a pretty simple set of instructions:
- Take your old knob off, it just unscrews.
- Find the rubber cap that fits on top of the exposed stick tightly.
- Unscrew the ring under the knob and slide it (the ring) on to the stick.
- Put the longer allen screws into the Momo knob.
- Slide the knob onto the stick and push down until it seats firmly.
- Tighten the screws evenly around the stick.
- Screw the ring on to the bottom of the knob and VOILA!! You are done!!
If you have a gap under the knob your choices are either to live with it, get a new boot or take off the old boot and snug it up to the knob with some grommets or something similar.
The gas cap threads changed. Gas caps that will fit a 2000 Eclipse will not
fit a 2001 Eclipse and vice versa. Additionally, the gas cap was changed a 2nd
time during the 2001 production year. Installing a gas cap which does not fit
properly will cause the Check Engine light to activate.
There is no longer a "flap" covering the fill nozzle of the gas tank.
When installing a new gas cap or fuel lid, be sure to stuff a rag into the opening to prevent debris (such as screws) from falling into the gas tank.
Nearly all 2001 Eclipses produced have California emissions equipment, regardless of the state the vehicle was to be sold in.
A few 2001 Eclipses were manufactured with Federal emissions equipment. So far, all known Fed spec 2001 Eclipses were manufactured near the changeover from 2000-2001 models.
The front calipers on 2001 GT's changed from a dual piston design to a single piston design. The replacement piston is a large piston, and the size of the pad is similar to the one used in 2000 models. However, the pad is not the same as what was used on the 2000 models. As a result, pads that fit a 2000 Eclipse will not fit the 2001 GT.
This change reduces performance under racing conditions.
Rear calipers remained the same.
An additional resonator was added to the exhaust for the 2001 models in order to quiet the exhaust.
The precat flanges on Cali emissions vehicles were changed. In 2000, the precats were bolted on to the exhaust piping. In 2001, the precats were welded onto the exhaust piping.
Foglights are no longer available on the GS trim.
The text on the valve cover changed from:
MITSUBISHIto:
V6 24 VALVE
3.0L V6
24 VALVE
2001 models now have a temperature and compass display available on GT coups with the premium package. It is not available on the RS, GS, or any Spyder.
This feature was originally supposed to be available on 2000 model cars but was dropped due to the unavailability of some parts required.
The diamond Mitsubishi emblems on the 2002 Eclipse are now chrome. The emblems on the 2000-2001 Eclipse are red with a chrome outline..
A light was added to the vanity mirrors for the 2002 Eclipse.
There are two different emissions standards that the Eclipse was built to meet in 2000. The first was the standards set in California (California emissions). The second was the rest of the country (Federal Emissions).
Federal emissions vehicles simply have a single catalytic converter underneath the car. Fed spec cars are rated at 205hp.
California has some of the strictest emissions regulations in the country. In order to meet this requirements, the Cali emissions cars have, in addition to the cat found on fed spec cars, two precats. These precats are near each bank of cylinders on the GT. The precats heat up quickly due to close proximity to the engine, and are designed to reduce emissions of the vehicle until the main cat warms up. However, they are really restrictive and cut peak horsepower down to 200hp.
There are two ways to do this.
On the GT, the easiest is to slide under the front of the car, near the passenger tire. Look up. If you see a big bulky rectangular thing with some pipes coming out of it, you've got Cali emissions. If don't, you've got fed emissions.
The second way involves looking at some numbers and appears to be valid for 2000 model year Eclipses only. Pop the hood of the car. There is a sticker on the firewall behind the engine. It's behind the intake plenum, on the plenum's passenger side. On that sticker is a series of numbers and letters. If the 2nd to last number is a 9, you've got Cali emissions. If it's a 4, you've got a Fed spec car.
There may be a third way, though there hasn't been enough discussion to determine the accuracy of this method. Pop the hood and look along the fuel injector rail. If you see a wire bundle, you've got Cali emissions. If you don't, it's a Federal emissions vehicle.
One of the biggest additions to the 2003 Eclipse was the addition of the GTS trim. For the rest of the 3G Eclipse's production life span, this trim is the "highest" model available. The Eclipse GTS is based off the same features and options as the GT, with the exception of its V6 receiving slightly higher compression ratio (10.0:1 opposed to the GT's 9.0:1), a new intake manifold that uses MVIM technology (Mitsubishi Variable Induction Management), which consists of butterfly valves in the manifold that directs air into the engine at varying condition to improve fuel efficiency and power. These changes to the engine allows it to be rated at 210 flywheel horsepower and have an improved powerband (Torque rating is still 205 ft.-lb. like the GT). In terms of performance figures, the GTS is expected to be one or two-tenths of a second faster than the GT in quarter mile and 0-60 performance, assuming both have the same transmission.
Another significant difference between the GT and GTS is the interior. In contrast to the standard black or tan interior offered throughout the 3G Eclipse's life span, the GTS was also offered with two additional interior themes, Midnight and Sand Blast. The Midnight theme consists of the regular black interior with dark blue accents on the instrument panels, seats, door panel inserts and center console. The Sand Blast theme follows the same layout as Midnight, with the exception of tan accents instead of dark blue.
For the last production year of the 3G Eclipse (2005), Mitsubishi introduced a new trim dubbed the "Remix" Edition. This trim is basically the GS trim with exclusive platinum exterior color along with fog lights, chrome wheels, power sunroof, color-keyed exterior mirrors, leather front seating surfaces, leather wrapped steering wheel, leather wrapped shift knob, and a 210-watt Infinity audio system with a six-disc in-dash CD changer from the Premium Package models. There were no changes to the powertrain.
Mitsubishi dropped the RS trim from the 2005 Eclipse line-up. As of now, the 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS is the last of the legendary 'RS' Eclipse trim.
The 3G Eclipse underwent a front fascia redesign for the 2003 model. The new bumper featured a "Catfish mouth-like" opening, with round foglights and slightly redesigned side fake vent covers and turn signal lights. In addition, the black headlight housing from the 2000-2002 models have been changed to chrome, and the taillight housing is now gray. Although the headlights are directly interchangeable among all year models, the 2003+ taillights have an additional mounting tab that can be broken/cut off in order to fit on an older model 3G Eclipse.
Although the 3G Eclipse received very little update to its interior over its 5 year production run, it should be noted that two additional interior themes, Midnight and Sand Blast, have been added for the 2003+ models along with the GTS trim. The only other noticeable difference is the gauge cluster. On the 2003+ Eclipse, the gauge cluster has black gauge faces, opposed to the 2000-2002's silver face. There is not enough information to confirm whether the 2003+ gauge cluster will work in the older 3G Eclipses, or vice versa.
The 2000-2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse was available in five trims: (Ordered from least expensive to most expensive):
-RS (2000-2004 models): This is the lowest trim available for the 2000-2004 Eclipse. Compared to other trims, it was very sparse in standard equipment, such as a basic 4 speed automatic transmission, no rear spoiler, rear drum brakes, 15" wheels and a low-end audio system. However, due to the aforementioned, it was considered the cheapest, and lightest, 3G Eclipse available until it was dropped in 2005.
-GS (All years): This trim is a step-up from the RS trim. While it featured the same 2.4L SOHC 4G64 engine, it came with more features such as a real spoiler, leather seats, sunroof, ground effects kit, a sportronic "automanual" transmission, rear disc brakes, 16" wheels, and the Infinity milt-disc audio system. It became the lowest trim for the 3G Eclipse in 2005 when the RS trim was dropped. The GS is a good choice for those who wants the fuel economy of the RS, but want more luxuries such as leather and a premium sound system.
-GS Remix Edition (2005 models only): This trim was only available in 2005 models. It's basically the GS with minor exterior and interior changes. Considered to be the rarest of all trims due to the one year availability and ailing sales of the Eclipse.
-GT (All years): This trim was considered the best available trim for the Eclipse for the 2000-2002 models. The main attraction of this trim is the 200/205 horsepower 3.0L SOHC V6 6G72 engine, which gives the car respectable performance figures when mated to the 5 speed manual transmission. Along with many of the optional features included in the GS trim, it gets 17" wheels standard, and a fairly efficient catback exhaust system. The GTS trim dethrones the GT as the highest trim in 2003.
-GTS (2003-2005 models): The GTS trim took what the GT trim already had, and added a little more. This model offered a slightly revised powertrain that gives it a 5-10 horsepower advantage over the GT trim (This does not apply to the 2003+ GT and GTS Spyders, as they both have the GTS engine), new interior color themes, and the same 17" wheels as the 2003+ GT except with chrome finish. ABS is standard on this trim, whereas it was optional for all other trims.
Note: A 5 speed manual transmission is available in all trims.
There are three primary packages offered for the 3G Eclipse, which is the [Sport & Sound], [Sun & Sound] and the [Premium Package].
The Sport and Sound package is only available for the GS trim. As the name implies, it offers very similar equipment to the Sun and Sound package, except it comes with a 140 watt CD audio system instead of the 210 watt Infinity audio system.
The Sun and Sound package included a sunroof and the single-disc 210 watt Infinity sound system (GS). The GT trim is offered with the same package, but also includes leather seats.
The Premium Package comes with the 210 watt Infinity sound system with 4-disc CD changer, leather front seats, power driver's seat, anti-lock brakes, front side impact air bags, rear wiper, power glass sunroof and rear spoiler (GT & GTS only).
The main difference for the 3G Eclipse coupe and convertible (Called the Spyder) other than one having a fixed roof and the other doesn't, is curb weight. The coupe models are ~100 pounds lighter than their equivalent convertible counterparts. Aerodynamic drag of the convertible is most likely higher due to the soft-top, but rigidity on both should be virtually the same due to the convertible receiving additional support in the trunk area to offset the loss of a fixed roof. A special note, however, should be taken for the 2003+ Eclipse Spyder GT and GTS having the same 210 horsepower GTS engine, even though this is not the case for the coupes. Mitsubishi did this to likely make up for the weight gain on the V6 Spyders, albeit it makes the Spyder GTS less appealing to buy unless the buyer is looking for the absolute best.
The Spyders also do not have same "trunk release" problem (The coupe hatch will not "pop up" properly due to a weak spring) that plagues the coupes (Club3G member ShineStreet3G has direct replacement springs that solves this issue for $10-12).
By definition, a "Sister Car" is a vehicle sold and labeled by another manufacturer as a different model, but in fact shares the same chassis, powertrain and interior components. The 3G Eclipse have two sister cars, the 2001-2005 Dodge Stratus SXT/RT coupe, and the 2001-2005 Chrysler Sebring Coupe/Convertible. Take note that the sedan version of those cars are not related to the 3G Eclipse. Although it is not a sister car, the U.S. Market 1999-2003 Mitsubishi Galant sedan uses the same chassis and powertrain as the 3G Eclipse, but has a different interior and exterior. Due to the similarities, the vast majority of engine and transmission parts are directly interchangeable amongst them.
The 2000-2002 GT came with 3 different types of wheels. Originally the GT was shipped with a 6-spoke aluminum alloy design. Sometime during the first year of production, Mitsubishi ran out of these wheels. They substituted the two piece wheels found on the 2G Eclipse GSX. These wheels were known as GSX wheels.
The problem with the GSX rims is that they are, apparently, very easy to damage. They are easily dented and the clearcoat would often be found peeling a short time after purchase. Mitsubishi has since replaced the 2 piece GSX rims with a one piece rim, similar in style. So far the new version of the rim appears to be very sturdy. For the 2003+ Eclipse, Mitsubishi re-designed the wheels; both V6 and 4 cylinders received their own 5 spoke wheels. Although the 2003+ GT and GTS trim received the same wheel design, the GTS trim's wheels have a chrome finish. So far these wheels have held up extremely well.
Only GT's with the Premium Package have ABS. If you don't know what package you have, there are two other ways of determining the presence of ABS.
The easiest is by far to look at the lights on the dash when starting the vehicle. There will be a light labeled "ABS" or "Anti/Lock" which will illuminate when the vehicle is started. If no such light starts, ABS is not present.
For the second, you need to pop the hood. On the left side of the engine bay, on the firewall, there will be a rectangular box with several tubes/hoses coming out of/going into it. It's in a direct line with the belts on the engine.
The glove box lock will often rattle soon after purchasing the car.
This is a common problem, and your dealership should have no problem correcting it.
If the noise is too annoying for you to deal with before taking it to the dealership, locking the glove box will silence the rattle.
If you don't want to take it to the dealership at all, you can take the lock out, wrap it a few times with electrical tape, and put it back in.
It is not uncommon for the SRS light to activate. It usually turns on after the passenger seat has been moved back or forwards. Sometimes it will activate after moving the driver's side seat around.
The problem is covered by warranty. I have been told by my dealership that there is no chance of accidental activation of the airbags while the light is on. The solution usually involves replacing the seatback of the seat in question.
If the vibration occurs only when using the brakes, the likely culprit is a warped rotor. This type of vibration is most apparent while lightly braking at highway speeds.
If warped rotors aren't the the cause of the problem, then the vibration is most likely consistent, or worsens with speed.
If you have done nothing to your wheels lately, it's possible you've put a dent into one of the rims. If a dent is not present, check to see if any of the balancing weights have come off of the rims. If a balancing weight is missing, that wheel will need to be rebalanced.
If you have rotated your tires recently (or got new tires and/or rims), make sure you torqued the bolts to the proper spec (~73ft/lbs) and tightened them in a star pattern. If you did not (or did not perform the tire rotation yourself), take the wheels off and retorque the lugs properly. Make sure to do so with the tire in the air. If this doesn't solve the problem, odds are a wheel needs to be rebalanced.
There are several other possible things which may cause the steering wheel to
vibrate, but these are by far the most common.
This section of the FAQ is meant to address persistent problems with the sunroof, not random glitches.
There are many different patterns to the problem. They include a sunroof which will never close without reopening itself. Others have sunroofs which won't open without closing itself. Some have a sunroof which will "wobble" to the left and the right while opening.
These problems are all related to the rails the sunroof travels in. Something in the rails is making it difficult for the sunroof to open or close. This sometimes triggers the "person with head sticking out window" safety feature, which causes the window motor to reverse itself.
This problem is covered by warranty. There does not yet appear to be a global solution to this problem yet. Most dealerships end up regreasing the rails or replacing the rails that the window travels on. Regreasing the rails never seems to permanently fix the problem. Replacing the rails has worked for some people, failed for others.
The 2 piece GSX style rims are extremely easy to bend on the GT. The two piece style rims are no longer being manufactured, have been replaced by mitsubishi with a one piece rim, with a similar design. Bent rims are not supposed to be covered by warranty. Some people have experienced luck in getting their dealership to replace dented GSX rims with new ones.
The problem is that the metal that makes the GSX rims appears to be very soft in nature. This alone wouldn't be a big deal, but starts to be compounded by the fact that the cars come with relatively low profile tires. On top of that, the tire pressure the fronts are supposed to run at is also relatively low.
It is definitely easier to dent the rims on lower profile tires. They don't have the large "cushion" that 14 & 15" rims have. As a result it is much easier to dent the rims by going over a pothole. The risk can be reduced somewhat by running with a higher tire pressure.
Sometimes a headlight isn't sealed properly, which allows moisture to enter into the headlight assembly. Usually after washing your car you'll see some sort of condensation under the headlight lens.
The dealership usually replaces the entire headlamp assembly. This repair is covered by warranty.
If your car does not track in a straight line on flat level pavement, make sure the tire pressure in the front left tire matches the pressure in the front right tire. Additionally make sure the pressure in the back left tire matches the back right tire. If one tire has a much higher pressure than the other, the car will not track in a straight line.
If the tire pressures are correct, then an alignment is probably in order.
It is normal for the car to favor a direction on bumpy or unlevel pavement.
The bar which the rear decklid is attached to (and swivels on) sometimes "detaches." The reason is that the bar somehow binds up -- it gets stuck. When you close your trunk lid, it forces the deck lid down, breaking it from the bar.
The repair for this problem consists of replacing the rear decklid and bar is covered under warranty.
Also known as the TOB, this problem seems to be effecting many of the manual transmission GT's. The RS and GS are unaffected by this problem.
The problem with the TOB is described as a rattling from the left side of the engine compartment while the clutch is not engaged. The noise gets worse over time. Some people also experience a stuttering that goes away after the vehicle warms up.
A solution to this problem has not been found yet. Some dealerships have replaced entire transmissions in an attempt to solve the problem. After a repair attempt, the noise is gone temporarily but always comes back (sometimes only a few hours after leaving the dealership).
The first time windows are rolled down after a heavy rain or a carwash, a musty or moldy odor is often observed.
The fix should involve replacing the weatherstripping that lines the top of the door with an anti-fungal version of the weather stripping.
This problem is reported most frequently in areas subjected to winter conditions (snow & salt).
Most people have had no problem returning the corroding cap to the dealership for a replacement. The problem is that the new cap will start to corrode over time as well.
A solution which seems to work well is to wax the lid, in order to protect it from the environment.
After installing the UR crank pulley, during hard driving the SES light may activate. The cause of the light is currently unknown. The SES light activates because the ECU thinks it detected a misfire in the engine.
There is currently no solution to this problem aside from reinstalling the OEM crank pulley.
If a window switch position is in the up position when the vehicle is started, that particular window will not function.
This may happen if the switch is defective. To test for a defective switch, pull up on it as if you were going to close your window, then let go. If it stays "up", the switch is defective.
Your dealership should be able to replace the switch under warranty.
If your door doesn't close properly after rolling up the windows, the window stops in side of the door need adjusting.
This is a simple repair that should be performed under warranty.
This usually happens after someone disconnects the battery. The radio for the Eclipse has an anti-theft feature which requires a code to be entered after being powered up before it will function.
You should have received a red card with the vehicle with a 4 digit number. Enter the number by pressing the numbered preset keys on the radio. You can attempt to enter the number 3 times before the radio disables itself. If the radio does happen to disable itself, unplug the battery again, let it sit for a few hours, plug it back in and give it another go.
If you can't find your card with the code on it, you'll have to talk to your dealership to get the information required.
It is not uncommon for a car shipped via rail to have what appears to be rust spots all over the paint. These are actually little specks of metal from the rail road tracks which have embedded themselves into the paint.
Purchase a clay bar from your local auto parts store to remove the rail dust. You may also be able to convince your dealership to correct the problem.
There are hundreds of possible reasons why the SES light may come on. The very first thing you should do is make sure that the gas cap is on properly and was clicked shut at least 3 times. This is most likely the cause if the SES light activated shortly after filling up the gas tank.
If the light still doesn't go out after a day or two, or if the car is running abnormally, it'd be best to schedule an appointment with your dealer to determine the cause of the problem.
This is normal -- cars have this problem. It is usually the worse the day
after washing the car, or the day after a rain storm. The rust will be worn off
after the first few stops. During those stops it may feel like the brakes are
grabbing. You may also hear the brakes squeal. This is due to the rust. These
symptoms should go away after the first stop or two as well.
A common misconception is that horsepower numbers add together. If you've got
an air intake that adds 9hp, and a pulley which adds 4hp, then you should have
gained 13hp.
It seems like a reasonable statement to make. Unfortunately, it's
wrong.
If you add an air intake that has been dyno proven to increase horsepower by
9hp to the wheels, you do get an increase of 9hp. The problem is that you aren't
getting 9 peak horsepower. That 9 horsepower increase is not at the point
where the car was making it's most power. That 9hp gain may be a 4000rpm,
instead of 5500rpm. At 5500 rpm, you may actually be making 174whp instead of
179whp. You may even change the point where the car is making it's peak
horsepower.
Now, when you add that pulley, it adds it's power to a different range in the
powerband than the intake does.
Hopefully I've sufficiently demonstrated why the numbers can't just be added
together.
(the numbers used in this example are hypothetical, and
any resemblance to real life numbers was the result of a lucky guess)
Horsepower is really just a function of torque and rpm.
So what does this all mean? Well, the most interesting observation is that
the torque produced at 5252rpm is the exact same as the hp produced at 5252 rpm.
Secondly, it tells us that torque is what is really responsible for pushing
you into the back of your seat when you floor it. The larger the area under the
torque curve the better.
So what good is horsepower then? It seems like a meaningless number doesn't
it? Well, that's not quite true either. Horsepower is a measure of the ability
to do work over time. Let's say you've got an engine that produces 200ft/lbs of
torque at 4000rpm. Your engine is exerting 200ft/lbs of work 4000 times per
minute. If you were making 200ft/lbs of torque at 2000rpm you'd only be exerting
200ft/lbs of torque 2000 times per minute; ie: you're doing half the work --
you're still exerting the same force, but you aren't doing as much with it. What
if you were making 190ft/lbs of torque at 5500rpm? It isn't as much force as
200ft/lbs, but you're doing a lot more work.
So to summarize: torque is the push you feel in the back of the seat, while
horsepower gives you an idea of how you'll do on the 1/4mi.
The 2002 Lancer showing up in car dealerships across the county are meant to
replace the Mirage. They're cheap, lower powered, econoboxes. A plain jane
Lancer is not an Evo. It's not a detuned version of the Evo,
rather the Evo is a souped up version of the Lancer.
The Evo is a high performance vehicle that shares a few thing with the normal
Lancer, like the basic body style and the fact that it holds 4 people. However,
the engine, suspension, brakes ... nearly everything on the car relating to
performance ... is better. MUCH better. From a tubo'd 4 producing more than
300hp, to an AWD drivetrain, to Brembo brakes...everything is better.
Do not confuse the two vehicles. The Lancer Evolution was first available to the U.S. market as a 2003 model, and currently is being sold as the 'Evolution X'.
The gross vehicle weight of the Eclipse is 3991lbs. This is not what the
vehicle weighs, sitting in your garage. Rather, this weight represents how much
the car would weigh with a full tank of gas and the amount of cargo the vehicle
is rated to carry (including the passengers). In other words, the GVW is the
most the vehicle will ever weight.
What you are getting the GVW confused with is the curb weight of the vehicle.
The curb weight is the weight of the car with NOTHING in it.
While this FAQ covers a lot of information specific to the 3G, there is a lot
more generalized information that applies to cars everywhere. Below you will find
links to good sources of information about cars in general. I highly recommend
you spend some time reading these things.
This is a feature intended to make it easier to post a link to the FAQ on a
forum. You have a choice of two different formats: a raw HTML link, or a UBB
style link. Clicking on "Copy HTML" or "Copy UBB" will automatically
copy the actual link to your clipboard. All you have to do is paste it into the
message you are composing.
Primarily to make maintaining the FAQ easier. The table of contents of the
FAQ is constantly being shuffled around in order to make it easy to find
information at a glance. This shuffling of the contents takes a significant
amount of time. It would take forever to organize the contents of the FAQ to
match. The FAQ isn't meant to be read from front to back; it's meant to be a
place to quickly find answers to commonly asked questions.
Most people recommend using a caliper paint made by G2 or Folia Tech. It's a
paint that must be brushed on by hand, and requires prepping of the surface as
well as a lengthy drying time. However, it appears to hold up quite well over
time and gives a nice finish.
You can also purchase spray-on caliper paint for much cheaper. You need to
make sure you mask off with newspaper the entire wheel well, rotor, and the
section of the car you are working on in order avoid painting parts other than
your rotors. Additionally, it would be advisable to do this when it is not windy
outside.
Engine paint should not be used. The temperature of a brake caliper can far
exceed the operating temperature of your engine. If this happens the paint will
peel off.
Regardless of the type of paint you decide on, it would be best to leave the
caliper in place to do the painting. Be sure to mask off anything that shouldn't
be painted but is at risk of exposure. If you decide to take the caliper off of
the rotor before painting, do NOT let it dangle by the brake line. When you are
done, follow the directions on the paint and wait long enough for it to dry
before putting the tires back on your car and driving it.
Be prepared to spend a weekend on this project to do it right.
The Venom 400 is a device which claims to improve non WOT performance by 20
to 30 percent. Sounds great right? All from a simple device you plug into the
ODBII connection on your computer.
Read what it does again carefully. When you don't have the car floored,
acceleration is increased by 20 to 30 percent. When the car is floored,
performance is identical.
So what is it doing? Say you have the gas pedal at 50%. The Venom 400 tells
the computer that you've really got the gas pedal at 70%. It "feels"
like the car has more oomph, but it doesn't; the device is just fooling you into
thinking your car is accelerating faster. You can get the same effect for free
by pushing down on the gas pedal further, which is really all the Venom 400 is
doing for you.
The purpose of a swaybar (sometimes referred to as an anti-swaybar, rollbar,
anti-rollbar, or stabilizer bar) is to keep the body of the car parallel with
the wheels during a turn; this helps to reduce body roll.
Body roll is undesirable; the more the body rolls, the more weight is shifted
to the outside wheels. When the weight is distributed more evenly, the inside
tires can do some of the work that the outside tires were doing before, allowing
for more "grip" while turning.
This also has the effect of altering the load carried by an end of the car.
Stiffening the rear swaybar increases the load carried by the back end of the
car while cornering. Stiffening the front swaybar increases the load of the
front of the car while cornering. The more load an end of the car carries, the
harder it is for that end of the car to turn. Using a stiffer swaybar in the
back of the car causes the back to carry more load which in turn allows the
front of the car to turn better -- reducing understeer (or increasing
oversteer). You're basically manipulating the car's center of gravity while
turning.
The suspension in your car is designed to work with a static geometry; in
other words, strut towers aren't supposed to move. When the strut towers bend
inwards or outwards, the geometry has changed; when this happens the camber of
your wheels is altered, which alters how much of your tires are in contact with
the ground -- generally reducing traction. A strut tower bar is essentially a
metal bar that runs from the top of one strut tower to the other. The idea is to
keep the suspension geometry constant by tying the strut towers together.
How does tying them together help? There are two ways the strut towers can
deflect: towards each other, or away from each other.
When hitting a bump, the strut towers want to bend inward. A strut tower
brace forces each tower push against each other. This means most of the force of
the deflection is cancelled out, preventing the geometry from being altered
significantly.
When a car is cornering, the explanation gets a bit complicated. The strut
towers are actually being pulled by the car towards the outside of the corner.
Most of this force is centered on the outside strut tower, so it is deflecting
the most. The inside tower isn't deflecting very much, as the forces aren't as
great. The strut tower bar makes the outside strut tower pull on the inside
strut tower. This pull helps keep the outside strut tower from bending outward,
while bending pulling the inside strut tower inwards. This "steals"
some traction from the inside corner of the car while giving more traction to
the outside corner of the car. Remember that the inside corner of the car isn't
working very hard in the first place; the net result is more available traction
through a turn.
There is a single screw holding the OEM turn signal in place. Use a
screwdriver to remove the screw and pull the stock part out. Turn the light bulb
socket a quarter turn to remove the light from the turn signal assembly. Remove
the felt and plastic cap from the stock turn signal and place it on the clear
corner (this should prevent water from entering the clear corner). Change the
turn signal light bulb (if desired) and install the bulb assembly in the new
signal.
To put the clear corner on the car, line it up correctly and screw it back
in.
Be sure to use the correct turn signal -- the left and right turn signals
aren't the same; they can be installed upside down, but won't look quite right.
The headlight bulb can be easily removed by opening the hood, reaching to the back of the headlight housing, and pull off the rubber cover. Once that is taken off, turn the light bulb mount towards the driver side of the car, and pull it out. Do not touch the halogen bulb; the oil from your skin can damage and shorten its life span.
The headlight beams can be re-adjusted by turning the two small knobs found on the back of each headlight. It should be directly above the rubber cover.
The most popular product appears to be Meguiars Endurance. Other products
people have recommended are Eagle One Tire Wet and Black Magic.
No. One set of bolts does the same thing as the other.
No! PVC pipe is not heat tolerant. If your engine bay gets hot enough, the
piping will melt releasing toxic fumes. To make things worse, those fumes are
also corrosive to the aluminum found in your engine.
A hissing or whistling noise from the intake at around 2,000rpm is normal.
The stock intake had resonators to eliminate noises. Aftermarket intakes are,
for all intensive purposes, a pipe with a filter on the end; no resonators.
The ABS system in the Eclipse is a 4 channel system. This means that the ABS
system can pulse the brakes on all 4 tires individually.
I have gotten a number of people asking me about SAFC installations so far.
I've been kind of out of this club right now as I'm in the middle of research
for my masters thesis. I'm sorry if I've neglected you. I don't mean to. Just
didn't have the time.
If you have a Fed, I'm sorry, but I don't have the time right now to verify
the connections. I know what is below WILL work for the Cali M/T GT, as this is
what I used.
Keep in mind that this is not for those that do NOT have patience. Playing
with your ECM requires a lot of anal retentiveness and patience. You're playing
around with your computer's brain. Don't try this unless you're comfortable with
splicing, soldering and shrink wrapping wires. If you are, then the whole
process is quite easy, and just takes time.
*UNPLUG YOUR BATTERY BEFORE STARTING.
Anyway, there is at least one other fix for the RPM problem out there (kudos
to Kaeyo121), but being the stubborn guy I am, I came up with my own (with help
from my dad).
I had to hand draw some pictures because I forgot to get them, and I'm not going
tear apart my dash again.
The APEXi US update manual says to use pin 45 from the ECU. I decided to use
pin 11, and here's why:
Here's the signal from pin 45. Hand drawn This is a 440v peak, with lots of
bleed off signals: Figure
1
Ugly...
Here's the much nicer signal from pin 11: Figure
2
There are problems with the pin 11 signal, but they are easier to deal with.
The first problem is that it is only 2.2 volts. The SAFC takes 3 volts to
trigger. Our first attempt was to build a transistor based gate that bumped the
signal to the battery voltage (14v). However, the SAFC had a problem with jumpy
RPMs until 4K RPM, at which point it got rock stable. We took a much much closer
look at pin 11's signal, and found this: Figure
3
This glitch is typical of a MOS FET circuit, so that must be what they used
to drive the ignition coil.
The dip was causing the SAFC to double trigger, at which point it gave up. As
close as these triggers were, it would have been if for every 1 spark plug fire,
you actually had the car at 400k RPM, then 700 RPM, then 400k for the next
spark, etc. I can't imagine how bad the double triggering would have been using
pin 45 (looking at my poorly drawn picture).
Our new solution, and one that works really really well (and should work on
99% of GTs) is a Schmidt trigger. This circuit is basically just a slow
responding circuit, so it makes the dip go away and weeds out noise. Also, as
with the transistor one we made, it recreates the signal... straight 14v current
as the signal when it's open, nothing when it's closed.
Here's the schematic and parts list, for those who know how to read them: Figure
4
A pin out of the chip: Figure
5
A crude TOP DOWN diagram (tap the power and ground, cut the RPM signal wire):
Figure 6
The circuit: Figure
7
A bottom view (I packed all the resistors underneath.. BOTTOM UP view): Figure
8
The obligatory size comparison: Figure
9
I cut off the unused pins and put heat shrink on everything I could to reduce
the chance of a short: Figure
10
Then I put heat shrink on the whole unit to protect it: Figure
11
I spliced the circuit in on the SAFC side of the cable that splices into the
ECU: Figure
12
And the final touch, electrical tape: Figure
13
Here is a (hand drawn) picture of the final signal compared to the original pin
11 signal (purple = circuit, blue = pin 11): Figure
14
Yes, it's an inverted signal. The circuit opens when there is no signal, and
closes when there is. Nothing to worry about, as it sends the same amount of
times per minute.
The result is a rock steady RPM on the SAFC, no worry about temperature, and
can tame most pin 11 signals, in case you have a different glitch than mine.
Original problem: The signal from rpm line are 500V pulses. Problem? there
are also 50V noise pulses, that were triggering and ultimately fooling the
SAFC, causing jumpy readings.
Solution: I attached a potentiometer on the SAFC side. A 1Mega-ohm (1
million ohms) potentimeter(aka variable resistor) has 3 pins (universal), and
acts as a variable voltage divider. One of the outer pins connects to ground,
the other connects to the incoming 500V signal from the ignition coil. The
middle pin of the potentiometer connects the green SAFC line.
By shifting the noise level BELOW the TTL Logic voltage of the SAFC, it no
longer sees the noise peaks. It only sees the pulses.
This resistor is only drawing 500microamps from the ECM, which is much
smaller than that a computer CPU uses, so it should be safe by far.
I connected the resistor and just started twisting in the direction that gave
me a signal. You can't hurt anything by turning it the wrong way. I turned it
until I got a good signal from my oscilloscope, and saw that I was getting a
signal from the SAFC as well. Rev your engine to 6k, to make sure you get
correct readings all throughout the band.
The only thing you must keep in mind is that resistance values depend on
temperature. I had to adjust my resistance a little bit because when I started
the car in the morning, it was a little colder, and thus was not getting a RPM
reading.
On the road trip, the rpm rarely fluctuated more than +/- 5rpm. The karmen
signal was stable as well..to within 3 Hz or so. At WOT and 6k rpms, max karmen
signal was around 1.2k Hz.
The S-AFC is unable to read what RPM the engine is turning at without
modification of the RPM signal. There are two ways the signal can be modified.
Each method has it's strengths and weaknesses. Each method also taps different
wires for the RPM signal, so be aware of this while installing the S-AFC.
Kaeyo's method is simple to make, but it needs to be adjusted based on
temperature.
Satchmo's method is more complicated to assemble, but should work properly
independently of temperature. However, some people report that it takes a few
minutes before the S-AFC picks up the RPM signal after the car is started.
There is no speed governor on the Eclipse. The car's top speed is limited by
drag only.
When warm, the V6 should idle at roughly 600rpm (give or take 100rpm or so).
In cold weather, the engine will start idling between 1,000 to 1,500rpm and drop
to 600rpm once the engine has warmed up. The idle speed may vary if the air
conditioner is on.
Information on the 4 cylinder has not been provided.
On the V6, the rev limiter kicks in after 6,200rpm. It generally seems to be
between 6,300 and 6,500rpm on most cars, and appears to vary a bit from car to
car.
Information on the 4 cylinder has not been provided.
All of the catback exhausts available yield the same power gains ... roughly
3-4hp at best. The stock catback is pretty well designed.
There isn't consistent information available about which exhaust gives more power in
combination with a downpipe or set of headers.
What sounds "good" is very subjective. It will vary from one person
to another. Some people like an exhaust that outright roars, some just like a
deep tone, some like their car to sound like a bumblebee. The line between
sounding good and bad can be very fine between some people. For example, what's
the difference between loud and too loud?
This means a recommendation can't really be made.
No. The front strut tower brace that comes with the GT is actually very well
designed; it bolts to the firewall in two places, which makes it very stiff. An
aftermarket brace will have a lot of trouble improving on the stock design,
which means that it would be more of a show upgrade than a performance upgrade.
The AC bracket used in the 2001 Eclipse is different than the bracket used in
the 2000 model.
2002 model year Eclipses how have a lighted glove box.
The 2002 model year Eclipses no longer have a metal titanium accent
"Eclipse" plate on the running boards. They can be purchased from the
dealership if you want them.
Instructions based primarily off of a set daveg posted:
Here's what to do:
The lug bolts used on the Eclipse are 12mm x 1.5.
The Eclipse has two coats of clear on it.
Some people suggest using a bug and tar remover. The only specific brand I've
seen mentioned is Meguiars.
Others have suggested using a clay bar, some sort of car polish, or washing
the area with dish soap. If you follow any of these suggestions, rewax the area
when done; the wax will be stripped off.
If you've got a very pesky bug problem and nothing else seems to do the
trick, you can go out and buy a "bug sponge"; using this will scratch
the clearcoat of your paint, but it will take the bugs off.
The front bumper of the Eclipse is 4 inches off of the ground, stock.
Either silicon or white lithium grease will do the job.
Yes and no. The GS doesn't have the mounting points on the firewall that the
GT has. The strut tower brace from the front of the GT can still be installed,
but it won't be as effective. To add the mounting points, they must be welded to
the firewall; this will scorch the paint and would probably lead to rust in the
future. Adding the mounting points is not recommended for this reason.
The passenger side of the 2002 Eclipse no longer has a keyhole.
The information contained in this document is based largely off of posts
residing on the Club3G Forums. This
document wouldn't exist if it were not due to information provided on the 3G
forums. Listed below are many of the people who wrote information crucial to
sections of this FAQ. They are (in no particular order):
This FAQ was merged with a FAQ RyanS (the Club3G Forums maintainer) was working on, shortly after this FAQ's creation.
Most of the inspiration for the original design and layout of this FAQ was
obtained from the CDRecordable FAQ. It has
since "evolved".
Why 1+1 doesn't
necessarily equal 2, when adding horsepower gains
(07/29/2001)
Definitions
(08/22/2001)
Horsepower vs torque
(11/15/2001)
hp = torque * rpm / 5252
I won't get into the math explaining where the magic number 5252 comes from.
It's the result of converting the definition of 1hp over one revolution of the
engine.
What's the difference
between the Lancer and the Lancer EVO?
(08/11/2001)
What is a car's Gross
Vehicle Weight (GVW); is my car really that heavy?
(08/30/2001)
Recommended reading
(09/27/2001)
What is this "Quick
Link" stuff?
(11/10/2001)
Why aren't the answers to
questions printed in the same order as the index?
(11/10/2001)
What should I use to
paint my brake calipers?
(11/12/2001)
Venom 400
(11/15/2001)
What does a swaybar do?
(11/20/2001)
What does a strut tower
brace do?
(11/27/2001)
How should clear corners
be installed?
(11/20/2001)
How do I change my Headlight Bulbs?
(8/20/2008)
How do I adjust my Headlight Beams?
(8/20/2008)
What should I use to
shine the tires?
(11/20/2001)
Does it matter which bolt
is used when installing a rear strut tower brace?
(11/21/2001)
Can I make my own intake
out of PVC pipe?
(11/21/2001)
Whistling noise from
aftermarket intake
(11/21/2001)
How many channels does
the ABS have?
(11/21/2001)
Kaeyo's S-AFC install
instructions
(11/21/2001)
Satchmo's S-AFC RPM Fix
(11/21/2001)
Kaeyo's S-AFC RPM Fix
(11/21/2001)
How do I clean up the RPM
signal?
(11/21/2001)
What speed does the
governor kick in at?
(11/25/2001)
What RPM should the
engine idle at?
(11/25/2001)
What RPM does the rev
limiter kick in at?
(11/25/2001)
Which catback exhaust
gives more power?
(12/02/2001)
Which exhaust/muffler
sounds better?
(11/25/2001)
Should I get an
aftermarket front strut tower brace for my GT?
(11/25/2001)
AC bracket
(11/25/2001
Lighted glove box
(11/25/2001)
Titanium accent Eclipse
plate on running boards
(11/25/2001)
How do I change my oil?
(11/25/2001)
Tools needed:
What is the stock lug
size?
(11/25/2001)
How many coats of clear
does the Eclipse have on it?
(11/25/2001)
How do I get bug guts off
of the front of my car?
(11/25/2001)
How much ground clearance
does the car have?
(11/25/2001)
What kind of grease
should I use to lube the swaybar bushings?
(11/25/2001)
Can I use a GT front
strut tower brace on a GS?
(11/29/2001)
Passenger side keyhole
(12/02/2001)
Credits
(08/19/2008)
lordvadr, mayurb, opusx, wavmixer, TheViciousOne, dpatino, DesertFox,
RochesterRed, kyp275, Mike W, eslai, The Artist, MattS, GenoS, VT3G, Taz2w,
Strider, wibble, lunatic68, sagi, TheFranchiseGT, RyanS, baldwine,
TOTLECLIPSE, Phinhead54, DjRoked, hozed, tracer bullet,
markrey78, JamesW, GregGT, ffixer, Kaeyo121, kklobb, Unowned, Khein, element0,
daveg, SilverBullet, TsPlayer56, Joonera, SpyHawk, wallacem002, Shub
Niggurath, scruffynerf, ctopher, Krondor, Hw50cal, Tmc225usc, Merc4life,
besheer, Ganema, 007GT, r-gordon-7, r_casino, grfxguy, Satchmo, jca001,
mitsumerlin, Deldrin, ECLPSGT, dvs3g, x79red, Eclipse510, RADmitsu, Black3gGT,
ForesterGT, KrisL, thelife, Bri01Spyder, tool, Green Beast, DBL-E, daveg,
mlnovns, GTXX '00, rmoon, SolarEclipse, animal, mitsu2, Viper, QiGGer
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