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3G Eclipse FAQ
3rd Generation Eclipse FAQ

3rd Generation Eclipse FAQ

Modified: 12/02/2001
Last Modified: 08/22/2008
Version: 2.0

Table of contents:

Legal disclaimer
Otherwise known as the "save my ass from a lawsuit" portion of the FAQ
(08/02/2001)

The contents of this FAQ are (c) 2001 by Michael Robinson, with the exception of parts not written by myself. This document may be reproduced freely but not sold for a profit.

The information in this FAQ is largely derived from personal knowledge and postings made on the Club3G Forums. Additional information required to answer questions in this FAQ were obtained from various sources on the internet. As a result, it is quite possible that information contained in this FAQ is wrong. Every effort has been taken to assure the accuracy of this FAQ, but all information should be independently verified before acting on that information.

As a result, I take no responsibility for injuries obtained or damage caused due to following the information contained in this FAQ.

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What does this FAQ cover?
(11/29/2001)

This FAQ attempts to answer questions and problems which commonly arise on the Club3G Forums. It is highly biased towards the GT, but information about the RS/GS is included where it is known.

Interesting or largely unknown information about the 3rd generation Eclipse may also be included.

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How can I tell what's new?
(11/29/2001)

You'll notice that each subject covered in the FAQ has a date listed in small type under it. This date is updated each time the information in that section of the FAQ is modified. Additionally, a last modified date is kept at the top of the FAQ, as well as a version number.

Generally new topics are appended to the end of the FAQ.

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The information in section xyz is wrong, how can I send you a correction?
(12/02/2001)

Please send a private message to an Administrator on the Club3G Forums.

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Is there a way to search the FAQ?
(08/03/2001)

Yes. The contents of this FAQ are contained entirely in one document. Use the find function in your web browser.

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My question isn't answered in the FAQ! What should I do?
(12/02/2001)

Visit the Club3G Forums and search the forums. If you can't find an answer to your question, ask it in the appropriate forum.

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Can a nose bra damage my car's paint? How should a nose bra be used?
(07/27/2001)

YES! The nose bra can damage paint if it is not used properly.

If rocks or dirt get trapped under the bra, it will rub against the paint causing scratches. If the dirt remains under the bra for extended periods, paint will eventually be rubbed off.

The area covered by the bra, over time, will also appear darker than the rest of the car (due to UV exposure).

The bra should be removed when it is raining or before washing a car. A wet bra should never be left on a car.

It is recommended that the bra be used only on long trips to protect the front of the car from bugs and rocks.

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What kind of wax should I use?
(08/30/2001)

Good results have been obtained with products manufactured by Zano Brothers, Meguiars, and Mothers.

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What size bulb is used to in the front turn signals?
(09/27/2001)

The lights in the front turn signals are dual filament bulbs, size 1157.

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What parts of the leather seats are leather?
(08/11/2001)

The following portions of the front seat are leather:

  • The front side of the headrest
  • The middle portion of the seat back
  • The middle portion of the seat bottom

All other seating surfaces in the car are vinyl. This includes the backseats and other portions of the front seats.

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How should I clean the windows?
(07/27/2001)

Get a small bucket and fill it with warm water. Pour in some vinegar. Wash the windows with a rag of some sort. Wipe them off with a towel or crumpled newspaper.

The type of vinegar used does not matter.

Window cleaners like Windex can be used, but are not as effective.

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What should I use to condition the leather?
(07/27/2001)

Good results have been obtained with products made by Meguiars, Mothers, and Lexol.

See Also:
FAQ: What parts of the leather seats are leather?
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How often should I condition the leather?
(08/20/2008)

There is no right or wrong answer to this, it's a matter of personal opinion and preference. Some people condition their leather every time they wash their car, and some do it once or twice a month. However, most will agree that doing so at least twice at set time intervals during each month keeps the leather looking new and fresh.

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What should I use to clean the dash?
(07/27/2001)

Good results have been obtained with products made by Meguiars, 303, and Lexol.

Armor All is not recommended. Over time it will damage the vinyl and plastic.

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What size bulb is used in the review mirror?
(09/27/2001)

The lights in the rearview mirror are size 194.

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What size bulb is used in the clock pod?
(09/27/2001)

The lights in the clock pod are size 74.

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What kind oil should I use?
(08/11/2001)

For the GT:

If you live in a climate where the temperatures go below freezing, you want to use 5w30.
If you live in a climate that is always warm, use 10w30.

The numbers on the oil label represent the viscosity of the oil when cold and warm. The larger the difference between the two numbers the more the oil has to "stretch" between cold and warm temperatures. The more the oil has to stretch, the quicker it breaks down. This means you want to choose an oil that changes the least while still serving the needs of the engine.

Do not use heaver or lighter weight oils. Some people think that using a lower viscosity oil is somehow better because it reduces friction. A lower viscosity oil doesn't generate as much friction and allows the engine to spin easier, but they do not offer the protection required for the engine. The lower viscosity allows metal parts to come in contact with each other more frequently, accelerating engine wear -- this is a bad thing. Others think that a heaver weight oil will give the engine more protection. A heavier oil gums things up, preventing oil from flowing where it needs to be; this means parts don't get lubricated, also causing engine damage. Your engine needs the proper oil viscosity to perform well and last a long time; don't use oil weights that the manufacturer doesn't recommend.

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Should I use normal or synthetic oil?
(08/20/2008)

Synthetic oil offers benefits such as less friction and cooler running engine temperature, at the expense of costing more than conventional motor oil. If you want the best for your engine, go synthetic, but prepare to take a harder hit on your wallet. To see the difference in cost between the two, go to Autozone/Pep Boys/NAPA's website, and get the add 4 or 6 quarts of each type of oil, and see the difference for yourself.

See Also: The Definitive Oil Bible

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What octane fuel should I use?
(11/26/2001)

Use 91 or better for the GT, 87 for the RS/GS.

Octane is essentially a measure of how well the fuel resists detonation -- the ignition of fuel without spark. If your car is not suffering from knock or detonation, putting in a higher octane fuel does not give you anything. You won't get better gas mileage, nor will performance be improved.

If you put less than 91 octane fuel in the GT, the vehicle will still run without blowing up the engine. When the computer senses the engine knocking it will retard the engine timing to prevent damage. This will result in reduce performance and fuel economy.

If you are running some form of forced induction (NOS/turbo/supercharger), the use of a higher octane fuel may be worth investigating -- but only if your engine is suffering from detonation.

See Also:
Gasoline FAQ
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How do I change my sparkplugs?
(09/27/2001)

On the GT:

The current instructions available for changing sparkplugs are somewhat ... lacking. Some people are working on making a step by step guide on how to change the sparkplugs with pictures. Until that guide is finished, I have two different versions of instructions available. Hopefully you'll find it better than nothing.

The original set of instructions:

The first bank of cylinders is easy to get to and change, so instructions are not provided for them.

The three cylinders on the back side of the engine are significantly harder to access.

To get to the rear bank, the intake plenum needs to be lifted (or removed). This isn't as easy as it sounds. The following items need to be disconnected/removed:

  • the intake needs to be disconnected from the throttle body
  • vacuum lines on top of the throttle body need to be disconnected
  • the pressure sensor at the top of the intake plenum needs to be disconnected
  • the sensor arrangement on top of the passenger and driver side of the penning need to be unbolted
  • the front wiring harness for the injectors needs to be unbolted (doesn't have to be removed, just moved out of the way of the plenum)
  • three support bolts at the rear of the plenum need to be removed
  • two bolts that hold the downpipe need to be removed (don't lose the gasket)
  • a brace bracket is bolted to the left front of the plenum that also attaches to the frame just under the lip of the coolant overflow bottle
You should now be able to lift the plenum high enough to reach the sparkplugs. You may also want to remove the bolts for the accelerator cable for easier access. A jar can be used to prop the plenum open.

When you've finished changing the sparkplugs, reattach everything you removed. The bolts for the plenum need to be torqued to 13ft/lbs.

If you are not planning on pulling the engine out of the car, you can leave the bolts which attach to the eye-hook bracket loose, or just leave them off all together.

A different set of instructions written by GenoS:
  1. If you are replacing sparks and wires, remove the CAI. This frees up the Distributor cap.
  2. Remove the screws from the sensors/injectors wire housing. There are 2 on the front top and a couple on the right side of the block. - you're not going to remove this housing, just loosen it up so you can move it a little to free up the front plenum flange.
  3. On the left, there is a large black metal brace...remove that screw and loosen the screw on the other end...it's just under the coolant overflow bottle. When loose, move the plenum-end out of the way. On the left side of the plenum (passenger side) there are 4 bolts that screw into the plenum and hold 2 sensor brackets in place. Need to remove these bolts so the brackets may be moved out of the way.
  4. On the rear of the Plenum, remove the two bolts that hold the vacuum line connector in place. I removed the Throttle body ends of the vacuum lines and could lay this large metal connector out of the way.
  5. Still on the rear, remove the two bolts that hold the throttle cable. then remove the two bolts that hold the sensor on the top of the plenum, and remove the sensor. Carefully lay these items to the left of the plenum.
  6. On the rear of the plenum, there are three brace bolts spaced from left,middle,right. Remove these. Then remove the two bolts that hold the EGR downpipe - BE CAREFUL - there is a metal gasket that will need to be reinstalled. Note the Tab position of the gasket, and reinstall the same way.
  7. On the right side ( driver ) of the plenum there is a sensor bracket about midway to the rear. Remove the bolt from that bracket. There are two "grounding" wires on the right front of the plenum that need to be removed.
  8. On the front of the plenum there are 5 bolts and two nuts that need to be removed.....I marked the bolt positions and reinstalled the bolts in the same positions.
  9. With a little shuffling around, you should be able to "lift" the plenum. I braced the plenum up high enough to work, and went from there. I also replaced the Plenum gasket, but some say it's not necessary if the original looks ok.
  10. From there you should be able to work around the wires and plugs on the rear bank.
  11. Important - The front plenum bolts and nuts are torqued to 13 ft lbs. The sparkplugs are torqued to 18 ft lbs. The EGR pipe bolts should be very tight - I couldn't get a torque wrench in there, so I had to hand tighten them as best I could. All the rest of the bracket/sensor bolts are snugged tight.
  12. When finished with the plugs/wires, reverse the uninstall.
  13. Remember, any leftover bolts, etc., simply reduce your vehicle weight - and this is a good thing

On the RS/GS:

The sparkplugs on 4 cylinder are very easy to access. To access the two sparkplugs in the middle, the coils above them need to be removed. A 10mm wrench is required. More detailed instructions have not been provided yet.

See Also:
FAQ: What kind of sparkplugs should I use?
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What kind of sparkplugs should I use?
(08/06/2001)

The stock plugs in the Eclipse GT are platinum plugs with a heat range of 6. The gap should be set to a range between 0.039 and 0.043in.

If you are running some sort of forced induction or have increased the engine compression, you should use copper plugs a heat range colder than stock. The general rule of thumb is to go a range cooler for each 75-100hp you add to the engine. If you need to go a heat range cooler than stock, you should also reduce the gap of the sparkplugs -- nothing wider than 0.032in; good results have been reported with a gap around 0.030in with low boost (<10psi) levels.

If you are not running any sort of forced induction, you can replace the stock plugs with copper or iridium plugs as well. Copper plugs give a better spark, but wear out much sooner than platinum. Iridium plugs last longer than platinum plugs, and are supposed to provide a better spark than platinum's as well -- the tradeoff is cost; iridium plugs are much more expensive than platinum plugs.

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How often should the transmission fluid be changed?
(08/20/2008)

It is recommended to change the transmission fluid every 30k-50k miles.

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What kind of transmission fluid should I use?
(08/15/2001)

Recommend fluids/fluid mixtures for a manual transmission:

  • BGT Syncroshift
  • Mobil One Tranny Oil
  • Redline MT Fluid
  • Mix 2 parts Redline MTL and 1 parts Redline MT-90
  • Royal Purple
Recommend fluids/fluid mixtures for an automatic transmission:
  • Redline C+ ATF (Chrysler MS7176/Diamond SP2/3 equivalent)
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How do I rotate my tires?
(08/11/2001)

Tire rotations should be performed roughly every 7500 miles. It's a very simple task to perform -- easier than changing your oil, but about as time consuming.

Park your car on a fairly level surface -- slight incline is ok, but do not jack the car up on a steep surface. Place the car in park and set the parking brake. Get two bricks and put them behind the tires (or in front of them, depending on the grade you are working on). If you're on level ground, put bricks in front of and behind the tires.

Take a look under the car and locate the main frame. There are two frames to the car. One to the outside near the doors, to be used by the spare tire jack provided with the car. This frame is designed to support the load of one tire. Do not jack up the entire side of the car using this frame. The second frame is located closer to the center of the car. This frame is what you'll use to lift the entire side of the car.

Get a hydraulic jack capable of lifting at least 1.5 tons and slide it under the car, about where the middle of the seats are inside of the car. Be careful when sliding the jack under the car, as there may not be enough clearance to fit it under the car. If you don't have enough clearance, use the spare tire jack to lift one of the tires enough to slide the full sized jack under the car.

Once you have the jack under the car, lift the car high enough into the air such that both front and back tires are no longer on the ground. You may want to put a set of jack stands under the car after you have jacked it up for additional safety.

Now that the tires are in the air, break all of the lug nuts of the front tire loose. Remove the lug nuts and the front tire. When you loosen and remove the lug nuts, do so in a star pattern. Now remove the front tire. Now would be a good time to clean the hard-to-access areas of the rim, and inspect them for damage. You may also want to inspect the front suspension and brakes for wear and damage. Perform the same steps on the back of the car.

Take the tire that was on the front of the car and put it on the back. Put the lug nuts back on in a star pattern. Tighten the bolts in several stages in a star like pattern. You want to torque the bolts to 73ft/lbs. It is important to tighten the lugs in stages, so that the tire is attached with an even force. It is equally important to tighten them with the proper amount of torque. Too much pressure may cause your brake rotors to warp, or may cause you to snap a stud; too little could result in a tire falling off. Perform the same steps on the front.

You have now completed one side. Remove the jackstands from underneath the car, and lower the side you were working on. Perform the same steps on the other side of the car.

After you have completed both sides, drive to your local gas station with a tire pressure gauge. Adjust the pressures in all four tires. After you have adjusted the pressures, drive back home and retorque all of the lug nuts on each tire (still following the star pattern) to 73ft/lbs.

See Also:
FAQ: What pressure should I keep my tires at?
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What pressure should I keep my tires at?
(08/15/2001)

Mitsubishi recommends running the front tires at 32psi and the rear tires at 29psi for normal driving.
For extended high speed driving they recommend 36psi at the front and 33psi at the rear.

I personally recommend running a few 33-34psi at the front and 30-31psi at the rear; at 32psi the front tires look nearly flat and don't offer the rims much protection against road hazards.

Be sure to maintain a 3psi differential between the front and rear tires. If you don't, the car will feel unstable at highway speeds and will not want to travel in a straight line. This kind of behavior is not desired and can be dangerous. The differential is needed due to the weight distribution of the car. Most of the car's weight is on the front two tires.

These recommendations are for normal driving conditions. The pressures listed here would not be optimum for 1/4mi runs or at the AutoX track.

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What is the stock fuel injector size?
(7/26/2001)

The fuel injectors on the GT flow at 210cc/min.
The fuel injectors on the RS/GS flow at 240cc/min.

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What is the coefficient of drag for the Eclipse?
(7/27/2001)

The coefficient of drag is 0.30Cd for the coupe.

The coefficient of drag for the Spyder is unknown.

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How big is the gas tank?
(8/03/2001)

The Eclipse's gas tank can hold 16.4 gallons.

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What are the gear ratios?
(8/30/2001)

 

5spd GT Auto GT 5spd RS/GS Auto RS/GS
1st gear 3.333 n/a n/a n/a
2nd gear 2.105 n/a n/a n/a
3rd gear 1.407 n/a n/a n/a
4th gear 1.031 n/a n/a n/a
5th gear 0.761 --- n/a ---
Final 3.74 3.74 3.72 4.04
Reverse 3.416 n/a n/a n/a
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What are the exterior dimensions?
(8/03/2001)

Wheelbase: 101"
Overall length: 175.4"
Overall width: 68.9"
Overall height: 51.8"

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What are the interior dimensions?
(8/03/2001)

Cargo volume: 16.9 cubic feet
Passenger area volume: 78.0 cubic feet

Passenger area dimensions:

Front Back
Legroom 42.3" 30.0"
Headroom 37.9" 34.9"
Hip room 51.9" 44.3"
Shoulder room 52.2" 52.0"
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What is the turning radius of the car?
(9/12/2001)

The turning radius for the GT is 40'. Turning radius for the RS/GS is 35.4'.

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What is the factory spec for toe, caster, and camber?
(11/15/2001)

For the GT:

Front Back
Toe 0mm +/- 3mm 3mm +/- 3mm
Caster 3'00" +/- 30" 0'00" +/- 9"
Camber 0'00" +/- 30" -1'20" +/- 30"
' is degrees
" is minutes

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How much do the stock wheels weigh?
(11/15/2001)

5 spoke GTS wheels: unknown
6 spoke GT wheels: Less than 20lbs
2 piece GSX wheels: 22.5lbs
1 piece GSX wheels: unknown
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What are the paint codes for the various car colors?
(08/17/2008)

The color code of your particular car can be found on some sort of sticker attached to the firewall. It's located near the edge of the intake plenum, on the passenger side. It has a mitsubishi logo on it at the top followed by several lines of text. On it, there is a line labeled "color trim". The 3 digits that follow are the color code for the paint on your car.

The following table contains a summary of paint colors available on the Eclipse, along with their respective paint code and the years that particular color was available on a vehicle.

 

Color Code Years
Chrome Blue (Spyder only) 2002+
Dover White Pearl W69 2001+
Flash Blue Pearl B12 2002+
Huntington Blue Pearl T67 2000-2001
Kalapana Black X13 2000+
Modern Metallic Blue T67B 2000
Monarch Green Pearl G56 2000
Northstar White W12 2000
Patriot Red Pearl or
Primal Red Pearl 		R70 2000+
Saronno Red or
Radiant Fire Red 		R87 2000+

Sherwood Green Pearl

G41 2001+
Steel Blue Pearl T19 2003+

Sterling Silver Metallic or
Ice Silver Metallic

A68 2000+
Tampa Blue Pearl T45 2000
Titanium Pearl H32 2002+
Ultra Red Pearl P06 2003+
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What is my top speed in each gear?
(09/14/2001)

The following table lists the theoretical speed of an Eclipse in each gear at 6200rpm, using the stock tires:

 

Gear Manual GT Auto GT Manual GS Auto GS Manual RS Auto RS
1st 37.71 44.34 n/a n/a n/a n/a
2nd 59.52 83.95 n/a n/a n/a n/a
3rd 89.07 125.92 n/a n/a n/a n/a
4th 121.93 172.50 n/a n/a n/a n/a
5th 165.25 --- n/a --- n/a ---

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What are the specifications for the stock rims and tires?
(08/25/2001)

For the GT/GTS:

The stock tires on the GT are 215/50R17 Goodyear RSAs.
The stock rims are 17x6.5 with an offset of +46mm and a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
For the GS:
The GS uses 16" wheels with a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
Other information not currently available.
For the RS:
The RS uses 15" wheels with a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
Other information not currently available.
See Also:
FAQ: How much do the stock wheels weigh?
FAQ: What is the stock lug size?
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What is the stock exhaust piping diameter?
(08/25/2001)

The stock exhaust piping on the Eclipse GT is 2.25" in diameter.

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Is the Eclipse available in AWD or RWD?
(09/04/2001)

No. The 3rd generation Eclipse is only available as a front wheel drive vehicle. For some reason, some dealerships list the vehicle as "Four Wheel Drive"; it is generally assumed that the person entering the information misinterpreted "FWD" as "Four Wheel Drive" as opposed to "Front Wheel Drive".

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Air Intakes
(07/31/2001)

Replacing the stock intake with an aftermarket one is probably the easiest and most cost effective performance modification that can be currently done on the Eclipse. It's also the topic of many newbie conversations. The next series of questions in the FAQ should cover most newbie questions.

See Also:
FAQ: Which air intake should I buy?
FAQ: CAI vs WAI; which is better?
FAQ: How do I install an intake?
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Which air intake should I buy?
(07/31/2001)

All of the intakes currently available offer the same power gains. There isn't one that is "better" with regards to power gains.

What is really boils down to is how much do you want to spend for what "quality" of intake? Generally the AEM is considered to be the highest quality intake available -- it's also by far the most expensive. The other intakes available are of similar quality with similar prices.

The work required to install each intake is very similar.

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CAI vs WAI; which is better?
(07/31/2001)

The CAI generally keeps the temperature of the air drawn into the engine about 20-25 degrees lower than the short ram. The temperature of the air taken into the engine also increases less than the WAI does at a stop.

What does this mean, in terms of performance? Generally, for each 10 degrees you drop in temperature, you gain an additional 1% in horsepower. This would mean the CAI would be putting roughly 3 more hp to the wheels than the short ram. Is it worth the extra cost? Well, that's up to you to decide.

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Is the AEM Bypass Valve a waste of money?
(08/21/2008)

This heavily depends on what region of the country you live in, and how paranoid you are. In order for a vehicle to hydrolock its engine, it must suck up a considerable amount of water, at least a liter. A drop or two of water isn't going to turn your engine into a very expensive paperweight, so in most cases, the need for it is a bit exaggerated. However, for those who wants to play it safe or live in regions where it rains often or have poor sewage system, it would be a worthwhile investment. For those who lives in dry states like Arizona or New Mexico, it's unnecessary.

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How do I install an intake?
(11/09/2001)

Just about all of the intakes install the same way. There are a few minor differences between each version, but nothing significant. RRE has put together a few articles describing how to install the AEM and Injen intakes.

Some people have difficulty getting the rubber boot to fit over the throttle body. If you have trouble getting it to fit, try heating up the boot to expand it. This may make it easier to slide into place.

When installing the Injen intake, wrap a rubber hose around the battery tie down if you see the intake rubbing against it.

See Also:
FAQ: What is the right way to install the AEM bypass valve?
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What is the right way to install the AEM bypass valve?
(10/02/2001)

The beaded part of the MAS adapter needs to be cut off. This removes about a half inch of material from the adapter. If you purchased your bypass valve while ordering the AEM intake from RRE, this has already been done to your MAS adapter (they cut it for you).

The adapter itself can cover up to half of the bypass valve without effecting it's function. If more of it is covered up, it is not guaranteed to work when needed.

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Will the spare tire still be usable after installing the AEM big brake kit?
(07/26/2001)

The spare tire will no longer fit on the front tires. It should still fit on the rear tires.

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Where can I find a locking gas cap?
(11/20/2001)

For the 2000 model year, Stant model 11501 can be used.

For the 2001 model year, things get to be more complicated. Not only did Mitsubishi change the cap between 2000 & 2001, they changed it from a threaded cap to a "quick on" cap at some point during the 2001 production year as well. Stant model 55104 or 11504 can be used to replace the threaded cap. As of this writing, Stant does not have a replacement for the "quick on" cap. You can also go into a Dodge dealership and ask for a locking gas cap which fits the 2001 Dodge Stratus R/T coupe -- Dodge should have both threaded and quick-on caps.

It is important to use the appropriate cap, as the thread pattern has changed on a number of occasions. If you use the wrong cap, the Check Engine light will activate.

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Will removing the resonators increase performance?
(09/27/2001)

No. The resonators present on the GT do not restrict exhaust flow. They just reduce the volume of the exhaust. They can be replaced with a straight pipe without any adverse effects to increase the exhaust volume if desired.

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How hard is it to install a rear swaybar?
(08/04/2001)

Installing a replacement rear swaybar is a rather simple procedure. The use of a jack to prop up the back is recommended, but not required. Installation is fairly straight forward, but there are a few things that may give the average person some trouble.

The biggest difficulty installing a replacement rear swaybar is removing the old one. The endlink bolts may be extremely difficult to remove due to rust. If removing them proves to be a problem, you can try spraying them with WD-40. Locking vice clamps and wrenches may prove to be useful. Do not attempt to heat the bolt -- the endlinks have a flexible joint with material that may melt when heated. If all else fails, you may have to cut the bolts off and replace them.

You may have clearance problems with the ST swaybar and HKS exhaust.

The ST swaybar is adjustable. The "soft" setting is comparable to the stock swaybar. The "firm" and "stiff" settings tighten the back more than the stock settings.

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How do I remove the vehicle badging?
(11/29/2001)

Removing the vehicle badging is pretty simple. They're held on with a strong adhesive, but they come off easily if you use a piece of dental floss to "saw" the badge off. Warming up the badge with a hair dryer may also help. The adhesive remaining on the paint can be taken off with something like Goo Gone.

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Where can I get an aftermarket "performance chip"?
(08/18/2008)

The ECU in the Eclipse doesn't have a replaceable chip. This means that a chip replacement isn't possible in the traditional sense. It is possible to reprogram the ECU with a "Tactrix Cable" and downloading the rom with an application called "ECUFlash". There are no companies which will modify the stock ECU. However, this is a relatively new breakthrough for the 3G Eclipse and not much information is available. It should also be noted that this method of flashing the ECU only works for 2001+ Cali-Spec ECUs, which means 2000 Fed-Spec owners will have to swap their ECUs for a 2001+. In addition to that, there is a difference between the 2000-2002 and 2003+ ECU. According to TheFranchiseGT's findings:


- The 2003 GT(S) ECU contain extra circuits for variable intake (GTS only ECU) and Fuel Temperature Circuit.
- The 2000-2002 ECU contain an extra circuit for spark.

The connectors are the same, but the pin layouts are different due to the aforementioned differences. There have been claims that not all 2001+ ECUs are flashable; more information will be provided as new discoveries are made.

See Also:
FAQ: Venom 400
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How can I disable traction control?
(09/10/i2001)

Pull the ABS fuse. This also (obviously) disables ABS as well.

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What is the S-AFC?
(10/15/2001)

The S-AFC is an Air/Fuel Computer made by Apexi. It allows you to alter the air/fuel mix by changing values that the car's computer reads or outputs.

 
 
 
 
 
See Also:
FAQ: How do I install the S-AFC?
FAQ: How do I tune with the S-AFC?
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How do I install the S-AFC?
(11/21/2001)

There are two ways that the S-AFC can be installed, depending on which RPM fix you want to use. Installation for each method is identical, aside from the actual solution to clean up the RPM signal and which wire should be tapped for the RPM signal.

To install the S-AFC you need to be comfortable with splicing, soldering, and shrink wrapping wires. You're playing with signals sent to and from the car's ECU; "I think this is the right wire" isn't something you want to be saying to yourself while doing the install.

That being said, if you're patient and don't have problems working with a soldering iron, it's a pretty straightforward install.

See Also:
FAQ: Kaeyo`s S-AFC install instructions
FAQ: How do I clean up the RPM signal?
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How do I tune with the S-AFC?
(09/27/2001)

RRE has put together some excellent tips on how to tune with the S-AFC. It isn't geared exclusively for the 3g, but it should have enough information to get you safely started.

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How can I adjust the MAS screw?
(09/09/2001)

If you turn the screw in, the engine will run richer. If you back the screw out, the engine will run leaner. No noticeable difference in performance will be noticed in a stock Eclipse by adjusting the MAF.

Adjusting the MAF screw changes how much air the computer in the car detects entering the engine, which in effect changes the air/fuel mixture entering the engine.

See Also:
FAQ: How far should I turn the MAS screw?
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How far should I turn the MAS screw?
(09/29/2001)

Every car is different. There isn't a fixed amount that you ought to turn it. If you really want to play with it, you should find some way to obtain O2 sensor readings. You want to lean out the mix until the O2 sensor is reading in the neighborhood of 0.9 volts. O2 sensors also tend to vary a bit, but on any sensor 0.9v should still be safe. You probably won't be able to turn the screw far enough to get readings that low. You'll need a device like an S-AFC to accomplish that.

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Will the AEM big brake kit fit with the stock 16" rims sold with the GS?
(08/12/2001)

Yes, stock rims 16" sold with the GS will be usable after installing the AEM big brake kit.

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Which mod should I do first?
(08/25/2001)

This is probably the most common newbie question. Of all of the mods currently available, there are three very good beginner mods available. If you are looking to increase engine performance, an aftermarket air intake is the best way to go (it doesn't really matter which one; all yield near identical performance gains). If you want to improve handing, the ST swaybar or RRE strut tower brace are very good modifications to make. All of these modifications are relatively inexpensive, can be installed in a weekend afternoon by a novice, and yield noticeable changes in performance.

See Also:
FAQ: Air Intakes
FAQ: What does a swaybar do?
FAQ: What does a strut tower brace do?
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Will my warranty be void if I modify my car?
(08/30/2001)

Refer to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. SEMA has a good writeup covering the subject as well.

Essentially, what the law says is that the manufacturer must proof that an aftermarket part caused a particular problem in the vehicle to refuse warranty service.

That's what the law says. However, some dealerships are slippery eel like entities and try to slip out/shift blame/flat out refuse to uphold their end of the warranty if you changed anything on the car.

I'd suggest you ask one of the techs at your dealership their perspective on it, to determine if you'll have any headaches by performing modifications to your car. Then you can decide if 1) you think you'll have a problem with your car during the warranty period and 2) if it'd be worth fighting your dealership tooth and nail over if they're the slimy type.

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What is forced induction?
(08/30/2001)

Simply put, forced induction is a way forcing air/fuel into the combustion chamber by a means other than vacuum pressure. Normally, an engine sucks air into the engine. With forced induction, you push it into