New dyno numbers... broke 400 WHP

[WarmAndSCSI]

Update here - making well over 500 now

406 WHP / 374 lb-ft

Sheet:



Vid:



Basic info... GT3582R @ 16 PSI

[Rocky2]

Badass right there. Good music.

[repforenzo]

Right on! Cheers!

[WarmAndSCSI]

Thanks guys. I'm sorry it's not an Eclipse, though. haha.

It just feels pretty damn good to have built this son of a bitch myself and finally see all that work pay off.

A few more things in store. Injectors that will actually support my future (and by that I mean before next year) power goals. RPW stage 3 cams to extend that torque curve to 7500 RPM or so. Valve springs to handle that. Either just the injectors and more boost will make me that 500 WHP, or the cams at the same boost level with the extra fueling.

[fatal1]

WOW!!! congrats tj...car is a beast

[skinnyGT]

Nice. Want to give us a layout of your setup?

[PharmEcis]

Interesting how your torque delivery hits so late.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Interesting how your torque delivery hits so late.

Was almost the same when I was N/A. Actually. Plus this turbo doesn't exactly like to hit full spool before 4100 or so.

[IcedoutGalant]

Congrats TJ!

[PharmEcis]

It's almost like you have an SDS on your car!



To be quite honest with you, my initial impression is your porting work has robbed you of torque down low.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I need gobs of torque below my after-shift point, why? So I can roast my tires in 1st and 2nd even worse than I already do?

It's not the porting job Greg It was peaky just like that when I was N/A. In fact, I should have overlaid my N/A graph onto that as well...

This was pre-ported heads. It's just how I've setup the car.

[Cudude11]

congrats

[WarmAndSCSI]

Thanks all...

I've kind of figured something out about that graph. It of course doesn't change my peak output, but does explain the crappy low-end. Under the 2000 lb inertial load of this dyno, my turbo seems to like to spool at 5000+. On the street, it spools at 4100. I avoid 4th gear on the dyno cause I do the pulls myself and I don't like the prospect of spinning her up to 140 on the roller. Next time I'll go ahead and do it in 4th, starting at 2000 RPM just to get a more accurate graph.

[PharmEcis]

If it's an eddy current dyno you should be able to adjust the inertial load of the dyno in the software for more accurate results.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

If it's an eddy current dyno you should be able to adjust the inertial load of the dyno in the software for more accurate results.

Yeah it seems like the DYNO-mite dyno does have variable load. I thought it was a static-weight roller. Might have the dyno operator change that up to the track weight of the car when I run it next time.

[PharmEcis]

Static weight is only for non load bearing dyno's like a dynojet.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Static weight is only for non load bearing dyno's like a dynojet.

Understood, this isn't the first dyno I've run my car on... but this particular dyno is setup to behave just like a Dynojet. However, you can vary the static (and by static, I mean it does not change given varying wheel output) load on this dyno. It also supports Mustang-Dyno-like behavior.

[repforenzo]

You are still using the stock cams right?

[Chato]

Nice numbers! what upgrades have you done to the heads? Why is it that your tq numbers are lower than your hp numbers?

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by repforenzo

You are still using the stock cams right?

Yes.

Originally Posted by Chato

Nice numbers! what upgrades have you done to the heads? Why is it that your tq numbers are lower than your hp numbers?

Mild port and polish, enlarged the exhaust port exits about 4 mm. Intake is just gasket matched, so maybe 1-2 mm in some places, none in others.

The curve is how it is because the turbo was liking to see full spool at 5000+ RPM. If you watch the video, you can tell that the pulls are just too short. I'll work on getting a better representation of my torque curve next time, but I'm sure my peak WHP will still exceed max torque, because it peaks above 5252 RPM where the lines cross.

[repforenzo]

One last one from me... it appears you are powering through 7000 rpms, especially on your stock dyno. Did you change the rev limit or is what I'm seeing a function of how the dyno reacted/plotted?

[Chato]

Interesting results. I think you are the only dyno proven Galant V6 that has gotten 400whp with stock cams. I think that the highest whp dyno proven 3G V6 also with stock cams is this one here (SDS)



And, the highest wtq 3G V6 is this one here (Turbo)

[WarmAndSCSI]

Torque at 4500 doesn't matter anyway since you never have to be there with our gearing... just saying. Nobody does highway pulls in 5th gear. Well, other than to just race in 5th gear to see how it goes. On the track, you want a peaky engine for FWD anyway. This is why really the only fast FF cars are VTEC monsters.

And Chato, the Galant engine platform is identical, Eclipse or not. That 380-something WHP on the SDS setup was achieved on a Dynojet as well. I went looking for that graph yesterday. I made practically the same power with my 21 PSI Stage 3 setup, and absolutely hated it. I make more now on 16 PSI, I'm not complaining

My rev limit is set at 8000 right now, I only let it go to my set red line during this dyno session, which is 7200 RPM. All previous runs were done with a 7200 RPM ignition-based limiter.

And I'll throw in some info on the setup...

Block:
- CP 8.8:1 2618 alloy forged pistons, 40 over, 4.5 thou wall clearance
- Sealed Power rings, 0.024" top ring end gap, 0.030" 2nd
- 3SX forged H-beam rods w/ ARP2000 bolts
- new VR-4 stock forged crankshaft
- ARP head studs
- ARP main studs

Heads:
- mild P&P I mentioned
- refreshed 3-angle valve job (not optimal angles, oh well)

Turbo setup:
- Garrett GT3582R, 0.82 A/R T31 hot side
- Xtech piping kit, ported exhaust manifolds, 2.5" DP
- TiAL 38 mm wastegate
- HKS SSQV (sorry, I had to mention it lmao)
- 700 hp FMIC, 2.5" piping in and out

Exhaust:
- 3" mandrel bent tubing
- Magnaflow Race Series muffler

Ignition (disabled for the dyno run, MSD box went bad):
- MSD Digital 6+ ignition box
- MSD Blaster HVC-II coil
- modified stock distributor cap
- Accel wires

Fueling/engine management:
- E-Manage Ultimate in speed density w/ pressure sensor
- EcuFlash
- Ford Racing 440 cc/min injectors
- generic AFPR
- VR-4 fuel rails
- -6 AN SS hose in engine bay, including fuel rail loop

That's pretty much all that's relevant to power output.

[skinnyGT]

You're 5spd correct? Do you have anything beefed up in the trans to handle the power?

Looks like I need some forged pistons to be right up there with you...

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by skinnyGT

You're 5spd correct? Do you have anything beefed up in the trans to handle the power?

Looks like I need some forged pistons to be right up there with you...

Yes. F5M51 swap, Kaaz clutch-type LSD. The transmission internals are of unknown limits. Carrying the same series number as an Evo trans (which routinely hold above 700 WHP), I figure it's got plenty of power-handling capability.

And wait, you're saying you have all these modifications minus forged pistons? That just doesn't make any sense. You just can't add more boost and get more power on this platform. This isn't my first FI setup on the 6G72 SOHC.

[WanderingPinoy]

Congrats! Can't wait to see how she runs on the track

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by WanderingPinoy

Congrats! Can't wait to see how she runs on the track

Thank you Len. I'll be hitting the strip in Vegas while the tracks are closed during snow season up here to find out. I never have good luck at launching at the track versus the street, so probably nothing very impressive. Might be worth it to bring some drag radials or slicks.

[skinnyGT]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

And wait, you're saying you have all these modifications minus forged pistons? That just doesn't make any sense. You just can't add more boost and get more power on this platform. This isn't my first FI setup on the 6G72 SOHC.

Basically that's all I need. We'll see how well that statement holds true come spring time.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by skinnyGT

Basically that's all I need. We'll see how well that statement holds true come spring time.

All right then... it takes $20k in parts and machining alone to make a reliable 400 WHP on this platform without half-assing anything. Just gonna throw that out there. The heads in their absolute stock form will not flow more than ~380 WHP I've seen it time and time again. With that dyno from 3SX's turbo job, my dyno @ 25 PSI with the RIPP setup. They either need a mild P&P or mild cams to break that barrier.

[PharmEcis]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

You just can't add more boost and get more power on this platform.

Say what? Your statement needs quantification. Someone running 6 psi most certainly can turn the boost up and get more power. Someone running 20 psi might not necessarily be able to do so.

Skinny needs a built bottom end and he'll get close to you power wise. He's also running a true speed density setup via EMS and w/ stock heads he'll make more power than you ever did on stock heads w/ a piggy back.

The trans in this car is very good minus the differential. Drive it like you stole it and anything will break. Treat the trans good and it will hold anything anyone w/ a 3G will ever throw at it.

[PharmEcis]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

All right then... it takes $20k in parts and machining alone to make a reliable 400 WHP on this platform without half-assing anything. Just gonna throw that out there. The heads in their absolute stock form will not flow more than ~380 WHP I've seen it time and time again. With that dyno from 3SX's turbo job, my dyno @ 25 PSI with the RIPP setup. They either need a mild P&P or mild cams to break that barrier.

Only if you have to rebuild multiple engines!

The $20k figure is only valid for people who can't do any of their own fabrication or labor. If I started over on my car with what I know now, I'd hit 400whp for less than $10k.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Say what? Your statement needs quantification. Someone running 6 psi most certainly can turn the boost up and get more power. Someone running 20 psi might not necessarily be able to do so.

Skinny needs a built bottom end and he'll get close to you power wise. He's also running a true speed density setup via EMS and w/ stock heads he'll make more power than you ever did on stock heads w/ a piggy back.

The trans in this car is very good minus the differential. Drive it like you stole it and anything will break. Treat the trans good and it will hold anything anyone w/ a 3G will ever throw at it.

Maybe it means more quantification for your dull wit, but anybody who has seen the limit of the stock heads first-hand knows exactly what I'm talking about. No further clarification needs to be made because nobody in this thread is talking about 6-PSI-like levels of boost.

The point is that I've tried to shove 25 PSI into the stock heads... it made decent power, but not where it should have been. This is the barrier that has to be overcome to make this kind of power. You clearly knew what I was saying, yet you decided to try to poke holes in my statement anyway. Get off my ass. Really.

How does a standalone make any more power. That's just absurd. I have spark from a top-of-the-line MSD box and coil (well, not at the moment, but soon to be again), and my injectors are at a duty cycle that achieves a near-ideal AFR. There is no logic in saying a standalone could make more power. That's just plain IGNORANT. Sounds like something I'd read on Honda-Tech.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Only if you have to rebuild multiple engines!

The $20k figure is only valid for people who can't do any of their own fabrication or labor. If I started over on my car with what I know now, I'd hit 400whp for less than $10k.

I have $25k in parts alone on my car, and I see it as the bare minimum in safety/reliability for putting down 400 to the wheels.

It's more like $60k if you count all money that has been put into my car.

Until somebody proves otherwise... it's not even worth arguing about. Show me a $10k build with ALL supporting mods that can put down 400 WHP reliably. Hell, my setup isn't even to that point yet. For example, my turbo piping is starting to fracture. I don't consider that acceptable at all. So that's even more time and money to pour into the car. I challenge you, a proper 400 WHP for $10k. I'd like to see it.

And if you're implying my costs include the labor of others, you're sadly mistaken. Nobody touches my car except me. Can't trust anybody else, nor would I want to.

[repforenzo]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

My rev limit is set at 8000 right now, I only let it go to my set red line during this dyno session, which is 7200 RPM. All previous runs were done with a 7200 RPM ignition-based limiter.

Wow. I'm not sure if anyone else has taken the limit up that high with the stock cam and springs.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by repforenzo

Wow. I'm not sure if anyone else has taken the limit up that high with the stock cam and springs.

So long as nobody holds it against me, and I'll be completely humble about it... I accidentally took this new build up to about 10,000 RPM one time. Getting too excited and downshifting into 2nd at 90-95 mph. Wouldn't have happened except I always rev-match my downshifts, so it went into 2nd without the synchros giving me any hell. The 6G72 can hold its own as far as revvability goes. That said, I don't want to take it above 8000 unless I have to. I'd like a set of cams that peaks my power right at 6500 or so, and keeps it steady until 8000.

But the stock springs... I'm not worried about them at 7500. If Mitsubishi engineered the engine correctly, the stock springs w/ stock cams can take another 1000 RPM.

[PharmEcis]

Sigh.

EVO 370WHP on reflashed ECU. Only change moving to AEM EMS, MAP sensor, no IAT sensor and even left the MAF in place. 430WHP at exact same boost level and only 30 minutes later so same dyno, same temp, same baro...

The weapon you chose to tune with dictates what kind of power you will get out of the system because not all weapons are created equally.

I don't care what you say as I've seen it first hand several times on the dyno. Swap out to the EMS and boom, 30 to 60 more WHP. Granted, it's not just the device, but also the tuner himself. You put a capable tuner behind an EMS and it will blow the doors off any stock computer / piggyback combo you can think of.

[Chato]

Damn. 8000RPMs on the stock cams and springs is crazy. I'm planning on going as far as 7500rpms with my built heads. I agree with you on the comment about the stock heads not flowing more than 380whp. I currently have completly stock heads with 110K miles on them and a 2.5" down pipe. My power levels at 16psi was 325whp. When we tryed 19psi, the car only gained 5whp. I'm pretty sure that If I add a 3" down pipe and do some head work like p&p and a valve job, I would gain around 40 - 60whp so it would be closer to the 380 mark. I'm hoping to be in the 500whp range next year with the race heads and a 3" DP.

[callmeebryan]

Nice numbers man. I been checking out some of your videos over on streetfire.

Actually, the heads flow quite well in stock form for what they are. There is some good improvement to be made, however, with good port work. More aggressive cams will really wake the motor up. I would say the stock cams are limited to just shy of 500 crank hp with an awesome port/polish job on the heads.

Im interested in what your AFR and timing is, at 100% tps, during boost buildup. A GT-35R should spool a little sooner than that with a 3L v6. Its only a 62mm turbo. There are Evo's spooling the 35r by 4500rpms.

Granted, you did say your turbo spools by about 4100 on the street, and that may be a bit more reasonable. Do another dyno and start out around 2000rpm in 4th gear and just let it wind all the way out. You'll probably hit over 400wtq.

PS: im enjoying my sub $10k 10second car, soon to be a sub $10k 9 second car .

[callmeebryan]

Originally Posted by repforenzo

Wow. I'm not sure if anyone else has taken the limit up that high with the stock cam and springs.

My car had a rev limiter of 7800rpms. Stock cams, but stiffer springs. That doesnt mean much because power drops off deep after about 6200rpms with the stock cams.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by PharmEcis

Sigh.

EVO 370WHP on reflashed ECU. Only change moving to AEM EMS, MAP sensor, no IAT sensor and even left the MAF in place. 430WHP at exact same boost level and only 30 minutes later so same dyno, same temp, same baro...

The weapon you chose to tune with dictates what kind of power you will get out of the system because not all weapons are created equally.

I don't care what you say as I've seen it first hand several times on the dyno. Swap out to the EMS and boom, 30 to 60 more WHP. Granted, it's not just the device, but also the tuner himself. You put a capable tuner behind an EMS and it will blow the doors off any stock computer / piggyback combo you can think of.

Yeah this is getting into the realm of "voodoo" and I just don't believe it. Ignition timing is ignition timing, spark is spark, injector pulsewidth is... yeah, I really have nothing more to say. It's ALL in the tuning. I saw 50 WHP just from adding back 10 degrees of timing that I didn't need to be pulling to begin with. As my setup stands, there is no more to be gained from any electronic upgrades. The E-Manage Ultimate is a lot better than you think.

[callmeebryan]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Yeah this is getting into the realm of "voodoo" and I just don't believe it. Ignition timing is ignition timing, spark is spark, injector pulsewidth is... yeah, I really have nothing more to say. It's ALL in the tuning. I saw 50 WHP just from adding back 10 degrees of timing that I didn't need to be pulling to begin with. As my setup stands, there is no more to be gained from any electronic upgrades. The E-Manage Ultimate is a lot better than you think.

Funny you mention this... at the track last year doing some test and tune with my buick, every 1 degree of timing i added netted me an easy tenth of a second off my quarter mile time.

The fact of the matter is that aftermarket computers have better resolution fuel and timing maps that allow you to really needle and thread the tune in.

I do honestly think you will be able to "EXTRACT" more power out of that motor with better tuning capabilities.

This all having been said, there are buicks running 10's on the stock computers, and there are buicks running 10's with FAST systems.... but there are none in the 9's or 8's with stock computers.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by callmeebryan

Nice numbers man. I been checking out some of your videos over on streetfire.

Actually, the heads flow quite well in stock form for what they are. There is some good improvement to be made, however, with good port work. More aggressive cams will really wake the motor up. I would say the stock cams are limited to just shy of 500 crank hp with an awesome port/polish job on the heads.

Im interested in what your AFR and timing is, at 100% tps, during boost buildup. A GT-35R should spool a little sooner than that with a 3L v6. Its only a 62mm turbo. There are Evo's spooling the 35r by 4500rpms.

Granted, you did say your turbo spools by about 4100 on the street, and that may be a bit more reasonable. Do another dyno and start out around 2000rpm in 4th gear and just let it wind all the way out. You'll probably hit over 400wtq.

PS: im enjoying my sub $10k 10second car, soon to be a sub $10k 9 second car .

I'm pretty close to 500 BHP as-is. 480 by my calculations, assuming 15% drivetrain loss. We'll see how it really goes when I crank the boost up to 24 PSI once I have injectors that can support it.

I no longer have AFR logging setup, I've just gotten a knack for keeping an eye on it. Kind of moving backwards, but I had no synergy in my logging to begin with (some info such as knock is only available on the ECU, then boost is only available on the E-Manage).

But I am running 14 AFR right at the onset of boost, linearly richening up to 11.8 AFR at peak boost right above 4000 RPM. I've gotten this turbo to spool as well as I can. Part of the problem may be my pre-turbo exhaust leaks. Would affect spool greatly, but not really peak power. Timing is in the realm of the stock map, with none being pulled relative to boost anywhere below 4000 RPM. So let's say 25 degrees BTDC. I got into a discussion with a fairly knowledgeable dude who works at RallySportDirect about tuning for improved spool. I changed my tune up to how it is now ^^^ but I really didn't see any difference.

That said, the 3" exhaust decreased my full boost threshold by almost 500 RPM!

And that's what I'm doing next time around. It's just going to be a little bit disheartening to see my speedo wrapped around on the dyno haha.

[Chato]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

That said, the 3" exhaust decreased my full boost threshold by almost 500 RPM!

I though that having a bigger down pipe will help a turbo spool faster.

[GSXROFDFW]

So what is the main purpose of this car? Is it your daily driver or are you going to just have it as a toy/weekend racer. I just don't understand why you want to rev it so high and make power so late in the rpm range if it is going to be driven on the street. If you are going for max power and bragging rights more power to you and keep up the good work. If you are looking for a car that is really fun to drive everyday in traffic then I would rather have 50-70 less hp that spools faster and peters off at 6000.

Keep us updated.

[02galant]

His cock sucker got him banned..... We wont be getting updates.

[repforenzo]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

So long as nobody holds it against me, and I'll be completely humble about it... I accidentally took this new build up to about 10,000 RPM one time.

But the stock springs... I'm not worried about them at 7500. If Mitsubishi engineered the engine correctly, the stock springs w/ stock cams can take another 1000 RPM.

I would have shit myself. Did you log that 10,000 rpms or did you see it on a aftermarket tach? I raised my limiter to 6800 rpm because the SDS still makes power up there (damn that peak boost ). Does the CP 8.8:1 pistons still make the 6g72 an interference motor? Or is the bowl deep enough to have valve to piston clearance at TDC?

[Chato]

Originally Posted by repforenzo

Does the CP 8.8:1 pistons still make the 6g72 an interference motor? Or is the bowl deep enough to have valve to piston clearance at TDC?

Sadly I found out that it is still an interference motor.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by Chato

I though that having a bigger down pipe will help a turbo spool faster.

That is precisely what I said...

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by GSXROFDFW

So what is the main purpose of this car? Is it your daily driver or are you going to just have it as a toy/weekend racer. I just don't understand why you want to rev it so high and make power so late in the rpm range if it is going to be driven on the street. If you are going for max power and bragging rights more power to you and keep up the good work. If you are looking for a car that is really fun to drive everyday in traffic then I would rather have 50-70 less hp that spools faster and peters off at 6000.

Keep us updated.

??? The turbo spools at about 3800 RPM now that I've fixed various leaks. Why not rev an engine built for revving (hello 76 mm stroke)? I'm not unnerved at all by having to rev my engine to the moon to make the power I want. Whether I rev to 8000 or 4500 before shifting, it's still faster than 95% of cars on the road. In fact with this very setup an 8 PSI of boost, I kept up with a modded Stealth TT when I couldn't even rev past 5000. It's not like output is low before full boost, it's still quite a bit higher than stock. And the only thing 400 WHP gets me on the street is wheelspin. Even in 3rd on warm, dry pavement. I guess I really don't see your point

As far as updates are concerned, I busted my "race only" Kaaz differential because it's apparently a piece of shit. Sounds like the preload springs broke or something. Hell if I know, I'll figure it out when I take it apart. Being forced to switch to a quasi-LSD (the Quaife) doesn't feel too good. I'll run a stock diff for now and just avoid any wheel hop.

Other than that, I'll probably be purchasing a standalone before I try to hit the 500 WHP mark. I'm really sold on the AEM EMS, but once I have the money, I really can't wait on somebody to throw a setup together for me unless it can be done within a week. Greg?

Reasoning behind this is my E-Manage Ultimate likes to pickup interference through various sensors. I finally caught it happening on my datalog. Probably due the the Accel wires I'm running, so a set of Magnecors (thanks to whoever sold me the defective set for $95, jerk) will help a bunch. But the RPM, pressure signals freak out once I hit full boost. You can see it clearly on the datalog, no need to elaborate; it's EMI from my shitty spark plug wires. However said EMI has cost me nearly $10k in parts and machining from killing pistons, cylinder heads, etc.

This avatar is awesome... I think I'll keep it.

And, yes, the 6G72 is still an interference engine after the 8.8:1 CP's. I bent all 12 intake valves after my first full rebuild because *somebody* ruined the dowel pin on the crankshaft sprocket, my crankshaft pulley loosened, belt got caught in the timing belt, skipped timing, you know the rest. That was a fun day.

[Chato]

Get the Quaife LSD it works great. What kind of clutch are you using?

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by Chato

Get the Quaife LSD it works great. What kind of clutch are you using?

It doesn't exactly "work" great, but they sure are durable as hell, well-built, and have the awesome lifetime warranty. You can read all about how the Quaife isn't a real good LSD for racing (mainly that if you 3-wheel, you loose all power).

Right now I'm using a Spec Stage 3, that will be replaced with either a Stage 3+ or a nice ACT or Clutchmasters clutch later this year when I put in the Quaife. It's actually held up pretty well for the abuse I've put it through.

[Chato]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

It doesn't exactly "work" great, but they sure are durable as hell, well-built, and have the awesome lifetime warranty. You can read all about how the Quaife isn't a real good LSD for racing (mainly that if you 3-wheel, you loose all power).

Right now I'm using a Spec Stage 3, that will be replaced with either a Stage 3+ or a nice ACT or Clutchmasters clutch later this year when I put in the Quaife. It's actually held up pretty well for the abuse I've put it through.

I haven't had any problems with my Quaife LSD so far, and I have been abusing my car for a while. Also, I have heard many horror stories from people that had Spec clutches. I'm glad your clutch worked out well though. I'm about to replace my ACT clutch with a Comp. stage 5 clutch. The ACT clutch was nice, but after 2 years of abuse it is finally giving up plus I need a better clutch for next year.

[MattS00]

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

It doesn't exactly "work" great, but they sure are durable as hell, well-built, and have the awesome lifetime warranty. You can read all about how the Quaife isn't a real good LSD for racing (mainly that if you 3-wheel, you loose all power).

Right now I'm using a Spec Stage 3, that will be replaced with either a Stage 3+ or a nice ACT or Clutchmasters clutch later this year when I put in the Quaife. It's actually held up pretty well for the abuse I've put it through.

I don't think you will have to worry about 3 wheel motion on this car. You deffinately shouldn't be raising the inside front tire in a FWD set up. If you are then your car probably understeers 10X worse than a stock set up car. A FWD car that can actaully corner has the ability to raise the inside REAR tire in a corner.

My Quaife does not seem to have instant lock up when launching unless I turn the wheel slightly to the right, but that might be just a bad suspension set up.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Found a better solution for my new LSD, will be waiting a few more months.

However, the open diff can handle plenty of power on the dyno:


488 WHP, over 500 lb-ft of torque on 17 PSI. Can't wait to throw some cams on top of this, but I'm just going to turn the boost up to 25 PSI where I had it with the SDS. Clearly the stock cams can flow quite a bit in the 4500-6000 RPM range.


488 WHP Turbo V6 Galant

[repforenzo]

Very nice and welcome back. Give us a few comments on your recent dyno curves.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Originally Posted by repforenzo

Very nice and welcome back. Give us a few comments on your recent dyno curves.

Yeah I'll probably be banned again for speaking my mind.

Well it spooled properly in 4th gear this time. Leads to a pretty flat horsepower curve past the peak point minus the dip at 6000 and the fact that I'm revving past the efficient range of the camshafts. I'm not quite sure that I want to shift that power band up any. I'd really just like to get two camshafts with the same centerline (since rear and front are staggered stock) with a more appropriate lift.

Here's how spool looks in 4th:


5th:


And how I'm maxing out my 440's. I'm still waiting on my PTE 880's.

[travion]

WOW, great numbers!

[Chato]

Those are some great numbers for sure. That torque is crazy.

[icemanrld19]

This should make chato realize theres something going on with his setup since you and his numbers are night and day

[Chato]

Originally Posted by icemanrld19

This should make chato realize theres something going on with his setup since you and his numbers are night and day

He does have some head work done and a 3" DP, but those numbers are way more than I expected, specially with stock cams.