How To: complete seafoam treatment

Ryan34 · 12/24/2009, 04:54 PM

Hey guys, I haven't posted very much on here (if at all). I Used to own a Stratus R/T and now own an '03 Sporty vert Eclipse GT. So I'm not entirely new to the platform. Any way on to the how to:

I am not responsible for any damage that may occur to your vehicle... you perform this at your own risk...
Tools needed:

none

Supplies:

2 cans of Seafoam, can be had at any parts store or walmart.
1 can of Seafoam Deep Creep (optional)

Step one: With you gas tank nearly empty, pour in 1 can into your gas tank. Then fill up completely with you preferred brand of gas. By pouring the Seafoam in first, you use the gas to mix it properly. You then just drive as normal.

This will remove moisture from your fuel system and clean everything that your fuel touches (injectors, valves, etc.)

Step two: Pour half a can (8 ounces) into the crank case via the oil fill cap. You then just drive the car as normal for about 100 miles or so. Then change your oil. (I recommend doing this right before you were going to change your oil anyway)

Warning!!!! This will not cause any oil leaks, BUT if your car has a leak that is being blocked by sludge or gunk, this can clear that out and reveal the leak.

This step may be debated, but i have done this on my current car, my Talon TSI, my Stratus and my Firebird Formula with out issue. If you want you can just run your engine for 15-20 minutes to cycle the oil through the engine, but i choose to go 100 miles. While safe for your seals, it can also thin your oil, so i wouldn't recommend doing this for more than 150 miles or so.

This will clean all the gunk in your engine. You will notice a REALLY dark oil change.

Step 3: This step is easier with a second person, but i will give both versions.

2 People:
1) Warm up your engine to full operating temperature.

2) With your engine running and your Seafoam next to you (I prefer to have it in a measuring cup), remove the hose that connects to the PCV valve. You can use any vacuum line though. Another popular one is the brake booster line.

3) You will notice that your car will stall, to prevent this just keep your line over the hose. When you are ready, proceed to SLOWLY pour the seafoam into the hose. This will keep your engine from stalling out, but with the second person can keep his foot on the gas to make sure.

4) Once you get down to 1/3 left, have the second person rev the engine to about 2k, and submerge the hose end into the Seafoam. Make sure to not stall it out until all the Seafoam is sucked in. Then have the second person immediately shut off the engine.

5) Reconnect the hose.

6) Let it sit for around 20-30 minutes.

7) Start your engine, you will notice it will be hard to start. Let it IDLE for 15 to 20 minutes.

8) Then go out and take your car for a quick spirited drive. I like to do a couple of full throttle runs to about 80 or so. (best done on a back road as opposed to a high way or city street) Otherwise you can just rev it a bunch of times until the smoke stops.

1 Person:

Same as above, except when you get to the 1/3 remainder...just pour the rest in quickly. The car will stall but continue to pour the remainder in. Then continue as normal.

Warning!!! Some people have claimed this to dislodge large chunks of carbon that have fouled their spark plugs. It may be beneficial to change you plugs right after doing this. I have never had this problem and have never changed the plugs after doing this, but it is entirely up to you.

This step will clean everything that the vacuum touches...while I'm not entirely sure what this includes, I think it should include the intake manifold and cylinder heads.

Optional: you can use the Deep Creep to clean the throttle body, this obviously involves removing the intake which would then require tools. I don't do this step but would if i knew my throttle body was dirty.

I usually do a full treatment every 20,000-30,000 miles. If anyone has an alternate way of doing any of the steps, feel free to post. Also feel free to post concerns so would be searchers can get a thorough reading before attempting this.

dieselxInd · 01/31/2010, 04:55 PM

I've seen better results by letting the car sit for 12-24 hours after putting the seafoam into the vacuum lines. For some this is difficult but if you do it like overnight it shouldn't be a problem. This way the carbon build up has more time to break down. Other than that this is exactly how it should be performed

EDIT: I have only ever used one can per seafoaming. 2 might be excessive. sometimes i skip out on the 1/3 in the gas and put half in oil and have in vac line but that is about it. I still recommend only 1 can per seafoaming.

shata · 02/05/2010, 12:44 AM

Im not sure if driving it with 8 ounces of seafoam in oil is good idea, i think id let it idle for 1-2 hrs instead. I wouldnt want to rev it very high with the oil that thin.

Ryan34 · 02/11/2010, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselxInd

I've seen better results by letting the car sit for 12-24 hours after putting the seafoam into the vacuum lines. For some this is difficult but if you do it like overnight it shouldn't be a problem. This way the carbon build up has more time to break down. Other than that this is exactly how it should be performed

The can says to do it while the engine is warm. But the choice is yours. This is just a loose guide, you can do any of the procedures as you prefer though.

And for the above post, I haven't had any issues, neither has anyone i've know from the f-body crowd. But I stay easy on the throttle until i change the oil. But if you don't feel comfortable, then just do it for a shorter time frame. I do agree that long periods of time would be bad, i just don't think it'll hurt the oil in that small time frame. (at the same time, i don't have any oil analysis to prove it) So I guess in short, if you have any doubts....just do it how you are comfortable with it.

dieselxInd · 02/25/2010, 11:13 AM

Well I just performed my bi-annual seafoaming and things didn't go as i planned. I had intended to leave the seafoam in the oil for 100 miles and then change but as i was going to change it, I found that my oil pan bolt was spinning....so i had to get a new one. Thanks to BostonHatcher I got one asap in great shape for a great price. Just to note i had then driven around 250 miles on the oil with the seafoam in it. I had bad lifter tick before this, but as of now it has pretty much gone completely away. I'm not saying 250 miles was good for the engine but it didn't kill it So its just something everyone should be aware of. The longer you let the seafoam stay in the engine the better it will work to an extent. Just keep that in mind everyone.

12/24/2009, 04:54 PM	#1 (permalink)
Ryan34 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Vehicle: 1991 Eagle Talon AWD Posts: 9	How To: complete seafoam treatment Hey guys, I haven't posted very much on here (if at all). I Used to own a Stratus R/T and now own an '03 Sporty vert Eclipse GT. So I'm not entirely new to the platform. Any way on to the how to: I am not responsible for any damage that may occur to your vehicle... you perform this at your own risk... Tools needed: none Supplies: 2 cans of Seafoam, can be had at any parts store or walmart. 1 can of Seafoam Deep Creep (optional) Step one: With you gas tank nearly empty, pour in 1 can into your gas tank. Then fill up completely with you preferred brand of gas. By pouring the Seafoam in first, you use the gas to mix it properly. You then just drive as normal. This will remove moisture from your fuel system and clean everything that your fuel touches (injectors, valves, etc.) Step two: Pour half a can (8 ounces) into the crank case via the oil fill cap. You then just drive the car as normal for about 100 miles or so. Then change your oil. (I recommend doing this right before you were going to change your oil anyway) Warning!!!! This will not cause any oil leaks, BUT if your car has a leak that is being blocked by sludge or gunk, this can clear that out and reveal the leak. This step may be debated, but i have done this on my current car, my Talon TSI, my Stratus and my Firebird Formula with out issue. If you want you can just run your engine for 15-20 minutes to cycle the oil through the engine, but i choose to go 100 miles. While safe for your seals, it can also thin your oil, so i wouldn't recommend doing this for more than 150 miles or so. This will clean all the gunk in your engine. You will notice a REALLY dark oil change. Step 3: This step is easier with a second person, but i will give both versions. 2 People: 1) Warm up your engine to full operating temperature. 2) With your engine running and your Seafoam next to you (I prefer to have it in a measuring cup), remove the hose that connects to the PCV valve. You can use any vacuum line though. Another popular one is the brake booster line. 3) You will notice that your car will stall, to prevent this just keep your line over the hose. When you are ready, proceed to SLOWLY pour the seafoam into the hose. This will keep your engine from stalling out, but with the second person can keep his foot on the gas to make sure. 4) Once you get down to 1/3 left, have the second person rev the engine to about 2k, and submerge the hose end into the Seafoam. Make sure to not stall it out until all the Seafoam is sucked in. Then have the second person immediately shut off the engine. 5) Reconnect the hose. 6) Let it sit for around 20-30 minutes. 7) Start your engine, you will notice it will be hard to start. Let it IDLE for 15 to 20 minutes. 8) Then go out and take your car for a quick spirited drive. I like to do a couple of full throttle runs to about 80 or so. (best done on a back road as opposed to a high way or city street) Otherwise you can just rev it a bunch of times until the smoke stops. 1 Person: Same as above, except when you get to the 1/3 remainder...just pour the rest in quickly. The car will stall but continue to pour the remainder in. Then continue as normal. Warning!!! Some people have claimed this to dislodge large chunks of carbon that have fouled their spark plugs. It may be beneficial to change you plugs right after doing this. I have never had this problem and have never changed the plugs after doing this, but it is entirely up to you. This step will clean everything that the vacuum touches...while I'm not entirely sure what this includes, I think it should include the intake manifold and cylinder heads. Optional: you can use the Deep Creep to clean the throttle body, this obviously involves removing the intake which would then require tools. I don't do this step but would if i knew my throttle body was dirty. I usually do a full treatment every 20,000-30,000 miles. If anyone has an alternate way of doing any of the steps, feel free to post. Also feel free to post concerns so would be searchers can get a thorough reading before attempting this. __________________ 1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 5 spd 2003 Eclipse Spyder GT Sporty

01/31/2010, 04:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
dieselxInd Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: West Chicago Vehicle: 2000 RS Posts: 573	I've seen better results by letting the car sit for 12-24 hours after putting the seafoam into the vacuum lines. For some this is difficult but if you do it like overnight it shouldn't be a problem. This way the carbon build up has more time to break down. Other than that this is exactly how it should be performed EDIT: I have only ever used one can per seafoaming. 2 might be excessive. sometimes i skip out on the 1/3 in the gas and put half in oil and have in vac line but that is about it. I still recommend only 1 can per seafoaming. Last edited by dieselxInd; 02/25/2010 at 11:41 AM. Reason: 1 can only

02/05/2010, 12:44 AM	#3 (permalink)
shata Shata Scatta Shred! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Vehicle: 02 Silver Eclipse GT Posts: 466	Im not sure if driving it with 8 ounces of seafoam in oil is good idea, i think id let it idle for 1-2 hrs instead. I wouldnt want to rev it very high with the oil that thin. __________________ Member Ride <Link> ::114k Miles /w Mobil 1 Everything Synthetic ::K&N Air Filter ::24 Brand New Valve Lifters ::03 Eclipse Rinolined Filler Neck ::Exedy Clutch/Pressure Plate ::Fidanza Flywheel 9.5lbs ::Repairs - Belts, Master/Slave clutch cylinders

02/25/2010, 11:13 AM	#5 (permalink)
dieselxInd Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: West Chicago Vehicle: 2000 RS Posts: 573	Well I just performed my bi-annual seafoaming and things didn't go as i planned. I had intended to leave the seafoam in the oil for 100 miles and then change but as i was going to change it, I found that my oil pan bolt was spinning....so i had to get a new one. Thanks to BostonHatcher I got one asap in great shape for a great price. Just to note i had then driven around 250 miles on the oil with the seafoam in it. I had bad lifter tick before this, but as of now it has pretty much gone completely away. I'm not saying 250 miles was good for the engine but it didn't kill it So its just something everyone should be aware of. The longer you let the seafoam stay in the engine the better it will work to an extent. Just keep that in mind everyone.