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Old 05/13/2004, 05:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Clutch Replacement

HOW TO: Clutch Replacement
This howto will outline the procedure for replacing your clutch. It will work for any oem or aftermarket clutch out there as the procedure is the same, just the parts are different. There are several ways to go about the install. I personally did the job w/ the car on jackstands and using an engine hoist to handle the transmission. If you have access to a lift, transmission cradle/jack, and air tools, you will find the job much easier but you can manage to complete the job w/ just jackstands and hand tools. Note, do not attempt this if your can't figure out righty tighty lefty loosy and are inept w/ tools. If I did this, any average joe schmoe shade tree mechanic can do it as well. Please note that this job really needs two people to complete if you are doing it on jackstands w/o airtools and a tranny jack.

Recommended tools:
Engine Hoist for man handling of transmission.
10' chain suitable for lifting decent weight load
2 ton jack
Good set of jack stands
Good Metric socket and wrench set
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Oil pan for draining of fluids
Lots and lots of shop rags
2 wire hangers

Begin by loosening the lug nuts on the front tires. Then jack the car up and placing the jackstands underneath it. DON'T forget to set your parking brake! I recommend putting the jackstands on the part of the lower control arm that bolts up to the frame. It's a 1/2 crescent shape that should match the top of the jack stand perfectly. Once the car is on jackstands, place your oil pan underneath the transmission and remove the drain plug. I believe it's a 24mm bolt that is located on the lower side of the housing. While the transmission is draining, take this time to remove your hood. It's 4 bolts and trust me when I say your back will thank you for it.

After you remove the hood, go ahead and disconnect your battery and remove it. Then disconnect your intake and remove that. Remove the battery tray by removing the 4 bolts holding it in place. Remove the battery tray support by removing the 3 bolts that bolt to the frame. By now the transmission should have finished draining all the fluids. It's time to pull off your wheels. Now you must remove the cotter pins that go thru the drive axle. Unbend them and just pull them out. Have someone step on the brakes and remove the drive axle nuts and washers. Next remove the 2 thru bolts from the struts to the brake assembly. You should now be able to slide the drive axle end out of the rotor assembly. Use the wire hangers to hang the calipers so that you don't break your brake lines. To remove the drive axles, the drivers side must be pried out. I found that the piece that hooks into the jack that comes w/ the car is ideal. Used the curved pointy end and you can pry the drive axle out very easily. On the passengers side, there are 2 bolts holding the half shaft inplace. Once you remove those and then rotate the half shaft collar down a bit, you can very easily just pull the drive shaft out of the transmission.

Take a break. You've gotten pretty far along, it's time for a cold beer. Your next step is to remove the lower crossmember support. It is bolted up underneath the car in the front and the back w/ 4 bolts. You must also remove the thru bolt on the front mount. Once you remove that the support bar will just drop down and you can set it aside. While your down there, go ahead and pull the starter. It's 2 14mm bolts, one from the passenger side that you tackle from the bottom, the other from the drivers side that you tackle from the top. You don't need to fully disconnect the starter. Just disconnect it from the transmission bell housing and set it out of the way. It's time to start tackling some of the things uptop again. The shift cables connect to the shift linkage by means of clips. Remove the clips and pull the cables off the linkages. Now is a good time to remove the clutch slave cylinder as well. Remove the 2 bolts holding the assembly to the transmission and then there are 2 more bolts holding the high pressure metal fluid line in place on the top of the transmission. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE FLUID CABLE. I was able to manuever the entire assembly out of the way and left it pinned up. Now you come to the infamous TOB disengagement. It's honestly MUCH harder than it sounds. I strongly recommend practicing on your replacement clutch as it will come w/ all the parts needed to replace it. You need to remove a rubber seal on the bottom of the transmission and the rubber seal around the fork at the top of the transmission. While someone holds the fork towards the drivers side, use a fairly large flat head screwdriver and insert it inbetween the throw out bearing and the washer/clip on the pressure plate and twist. The person holding the fork must allow the fork to move back and you will know that you successfully released the TOB if the fork moves almost all the way to the passenger side of the car. Note that the tranmission WILL NOT DROP if the TOB is not released properly.

Now you need to remove the rear mount. There are 2 bolts facing downwards, and one that is horizontal that need to be removed. You also need to remove the thru bolt. After that is done, you can simply pull the entire mount out. There are a few other misc cables that are bolted to the transmission. Remove those, and pay attention to the grounding cable near the front. You can now remove the 4 upper tranny bolts. They are 17mm in size and are grey w/ red painted heads. There are 4 14mm bolts on the bottom of the tranny that need to be removed now as well.

What follows next is going to depend on what kind of tools you have. As I used a engine hoist, chain, and multiple jacks, this is what method I will describe. Place a jack under the lower engine oil pan. I had to use a brick to give it enough height. Now bring the engine hoist over the car and take a length of chain and wrap it around the transmission. In order to better support the tranny, I did allow the chain to go thru the metal support for the rear tranny mount and then crossed it over the bell housing to the diff side in the front and back up to the hook on the hoist. You can use one of the thru bolts and it's nut to secure the chain on the hoist. You are now ready to begin to undo the 4 nuts that hold the tranny side mount in place. Once you have removed those you can now lower the engine a little and you should be able to remove the tranny side mount completely. Remove the 2 final bolts securing the transmission to the engine. They are on a horizontal plane 180 degrees from each other. The are both accessible from the passengers side and are 17mm.

You should now be able to start to slide the transmission off of the engine, adjusting the height of the tranny using the hoist as you go. Once it's free, lower the transmission to the ground and slide it out from under the car as you will need to remove the TOB from the bell housing and replace it. There are 2 bolts that secure a rod that goes thru the fork that need to removed. Now it might look like there is no where for that rod to go, but there is a cap right above it that is knocked out and allows the rod to be removed. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock that rod out. Once you do that, you can remove the TOB from the fork and replace it with the new one. Make sure you get the springs back on properly that are on the fork. It would be wise to use a little grease on the fork and TOB to ensure no snagging in it's operation.

You can now remove the pressure plate. It is held on by 6 bolts. Becareful when you remove it as the clutch disk is likely to fall. I very strongly recommend removing the flywheel and having it resurfaced. Yes this will add a day to the job, but if you do not have the flywheel resurfaced, you run the risk of screwing up your new clutch. To remove the flywheel, you just simply remove the 8 bolts that secure it to the crank. It will make it easier to remove those bolts if you use a long pry bar to make the flywhee/crank not spin. I put the handle of the pry bar on the floor and stuck the flat side into the teeth of the flywheel so it wouldn't spin.

For reassembly, please note that the 2 metal disks that came off when you removed the flywheel have holes in them. Those must line up w/ the flywheel and also the hole in the crank. If you do not install those disks, you will NOT be able to properly align the clutch disk on the flywheel. The flywheel should be torqued down to 55 +- 2 foot pounds of torque and the bolts should be tightened in a star pattern. The installation of the clutch disk can be tricky on this car. Because of the design of the flywheel you can install the clutch disk backwards by mistake. I know, I did that. Your clutch disk will have one side that has a raised portion. That side will face the tranny and the side that is flat faces the flywheel. When you install the clutch disk and the pressure plate, it is IMPERATIVE that you slowly go tightening down the bolts in a star pattern. You want to tighten the clutch cover (pressure plate) to 14 +- 2 foot pounds of torque and you MUST do it in a star pattern. I recommend to do it by hand tightening the bolts first, then to 5#s, then to 10#s, and then to 15#s. This might sound very anal but after all the problems I had, trust me it's worth it.

Once you get the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate installed, you must now reverse the procedure. Please note that once you get the tranny in position, it should just slide right up to the engine. If it does not, you have screwed something up and you must try again. TRUST ME ON THAT ONE. Just follow the removal steps in reverse order and you will have your clutch installed in no time.

I have some pics here:

http://www.ruhproductions.com/gallery/album102?page=1

Originally by PharmEcis
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Old 07/16/2004, 11:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno
HOW TO: Clutch Replacement
...

Recommended tools:
Engine Hoist for man handling of transmission.
10' chain suitable for lifting decent weight load
2 ton jack
Good set of jack stands
Good Metric socket and wrench set
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Oil pan for draining of fluids
Lots and lots of shop rags
2 wire hangers
sockets: (all 3/8 unless otherwise noted)
10mm, 12mm, 14mm (std + deep), 15mm, 17mm (std + deep, 3/8 and 1/2), 18mm

(Edit by OpusX: 32mm socket for drive axle nut)

3/8" AND 1/2" breakers (useful, but not necessary to have both)
various length extensions for the 3/8"

tranny jack (instead of a chain and hoist)


Quote:
Begin by loosening the lug nuts on the front tires. ... While the transmission is draining, take this time to remove your hood. It's 4 bolts and trust me when I say your back will thank you for it.
I see no reason whatsoever to remove the hood ... my back wasn't bothered in the least until assembly was complete.

Quote:
...

Take a break. You've gotten pretty far along, it's time for a cold beer. Your next step is to remove the lower crossmember support. It is bolted up underneath the car in the front and the back w/ 4 bolts. You must also remove the thru bolt on the front mount. Once you remove that the support bar will just drop down and you can set it aside. While your down there, go ahead and pull the starter. It's 2 14mm bolts, one from the passenger side that you tackle from the bottom, the other from the drivers side that you tackle from the top. You don't need to fully disconnect the starter. Just disconnect it from the transmission bell housing and set it out of the way. It's time to start tackling some of the things uptop again. The shift cables connect to the shift linkage by means of clips. Remove the clips and pull the cables off the linkages. Now is a good time to remove the clutch slave cylinder as well. Remove the 2 bolts holding the assembly to the transmission and then there are 2 more bolts holding the high pressure metal fluid line in place on the top of the transmission. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE FLUID CABLE. I was able to manuever the entire assembly out of the way and left it pinned up. Now you come to the infamous TOB disengagement. It's honestly MUCH harder than it sounds. I strongly recommend practicing on your replacement clutch as it will come w/ all the parts needed to replace it.
hard if you DON'T practice, cake if you do. make sure you have a decent light underneath the car to see into the tranny housing with.

Quote:
You need to remove a rubber seal on the bottom of the transmission and the rubber seal around the fork at the top of the transmission. While someone holds the fork towards the drivers side, use a fairly large flat head screwdriver and insert it inbetween the throw out bearing and the washer/clip on the pressure plate and twist. The person holding the fork must allow the fork to move back and you will know that you successfully released the TOB if the fork moves almost all the way to the passenger side of the car. Note that the tranmission WILL NOT DROP if the TOB is not released properly.
At no point during disassembly is a second person needed, except perhaps for braking during wheel and axle removal; it is quite easy to reach up and grab the shift fork while you're working a screwdriver on the bottomside to pop the TOB off the pressure plate.

Quote:
Now you need to remove the rear mount. There are 2 bolts facing downwards, and one that is horizontal that need to be removed. You also need to remove the thru bolt. After that is done, you can simply pull the entire mount out.
I don't feel it's necessary to remove the rear mount, just the rear thru-bolt. In fact, removing and remounting the rear mount is a pain in the ass due to the lower bolts being somewhat blocked by the tranny backet and tranny housing. I think you can get away without popping the rear mount.

Quote:
There are a few other misc cables that are bolted to the transmission. Remove those, and pay attention to the grounding cable near the front. You can now remove the 4 upper tranny bolts. They are 17mm in size and are grey w/ red painted heads. There are 4 14mm bolts on the bottom of the tranny that need to be removed now as well.
Yeah, they're painted red if you live in Cali and/or your car is less than 2 years old. Don't count on them being red, but they're extremely easy to identify regardless.

Quote:
What follows next is going to depend on what kind of tools you have. As I used a engine hoist, chain, and multiple jacks, this is what method I will describe. Place a jack under the lower engine oil pan. I had to use a brick to give it enough height. Now bring the engine hoist over the car and take a length of chain and wrap it around the transmission. In order to better support the tranny, I did allow the chain to go thru the metal support for the rear tranny mount and then crossed it over the bell housing to the diff side in the front and back up to the hook on the hoist. You can use one of the thru bolts and it's nut to secure the chain on the hoist. You are now ready to begin to undo the 4 nuts that hold the tranny side mount in place. Once you have removed those you can now lower the engine a little and you should be able to remove the tranny side mount completely. Remove the 2 final bolts securing the transmission to the engine. They are on a horizontal plane 180 degrees from each other. The are both accessible from the passengers side and are 17mm.
When I reached this step, these 17mm bolts were actually 19mm bolts ... same shaft, 19mm head. Maybe an early production difference, as my car was produced in April 99. However when I got new bolts from Mitsu, they were in fact 17mm bolts. Be careful around these -- there are two bushings that sit in the block through which these bolts transit before threading into the tranny housing. When you remove the tranny, be careful to get it off of both of these pegs/bushings without tilting or twisting too much, as you can mash these bushings, as I did. $1.28 from Conicelli, $3.50 at the local dealership.

Also, at this point I was using a tranny jack; very easy to move the tranny in and out of mating with the pressure plate at a good angle, but tough to get the tranny out form under the car, even at full jackstand height.


Quote:
You should now be able to start to slide the transmission off of the engine, adjusting the height of the tranny using the hoist as you go. Once it's free, lower the transmission to the ground and slide it out from under the car as you will need to remove the TOB from the bell housing and replace it. There are 2 bolts that secure a rod that goes thru the fork that need to removed.
I only needed to remove one bolt, and didn't even see a second bolt.

Quote:
Now it might look like there is no where for that rod to go, but there is a cap right above it that is knocked out and allows the rod to be removed. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock that rod out. Once you do that, you can remove the TOB from the fork and replace it with the new one. Make sure you get the springs back on properly that are on the fork. It would be wise to use a little grease on the fork and TOB to ensure no snagging in it's operation.

You can now remove the pressure plate. It is held on by 6 bolts. Becareful when you remove it as the clutch disk is likely to fall. I very strongly recommend removing the flywheel and having it resurfaced.
My flywheel still had machining marks from 25,000 miles ago, the FIRST time an OEM clutch went on me (at 10k or so).

Quote:
Yes this will add a day to the job, but if you do not have the flywheel resurfaced, you run the risk of screwing up your new clutch. ...

For reassembly, please note that the 2 metal disks that came off when you removed the flywheel have holes in them. Those must line up w/ the flywheel and also the hole in the crank. If you do not install those disks, you will NOT be able to properly align the clutch disk on the flywheel. The flywheel should be torqued down to 55 +- 2 foot pounds of torque and the bolts should be tightened in a star pattern. The installation of the clutch disk can be tricky on this car. Because of the design of the flywheel you can install the clutch disk backwards by mistake. I know, I did that. Your clutch disk will have one side that has a raised portion. That side will face the tranny and the side that is flat faces the flywheel. When you install the clutch disk and the pressure plate, it is IMPERATIVE that you slowly go tightening down the bolts in a star pattern. You want to tighten the clutch cover (pressure plate) to 14 +- 2 foot pounds of torque and you MUST do it in a star pattern. I recommend to do it by hand tightening the bolts first, then to 5#s, then to 10#s, and then to 15#s. This might sound very anal but after all the problems I had, trust me it's worth it.

Once you get the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate installed, you must now reverse the procedure. Please note that once you get the tranny in position, it should just slide right up to the engine. If it does not, you have screwed something up and you must try again. TRUST ME ON THAT ONE. Just follow the removal steps in reverse order and you will have your clutch installed in no time.
Use some care when aligning your clutch disc. I slipped in a 17mm socket and aligned it by eye. If your disc is too far off center, you won't be able to bolt everything back together and reengage the TOB. You'll possibly need a second person around to help align the tranny (CAREFULLY) onto those two previously mentoined bushings.

what pics I have will be up later.
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Old 09/13/2004, 11:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 11/02/2004, 10:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew

Be careful around these -- there are two bushings that sit in the block through which these bolts transit before threading into the tranny housing. When you remove the tranny, be careful to get it off of both of these pegs/bushings without tilting or twisting too much, as you can mash these bushings, as I did. $1.28 from Conicelli, $3.50 at the local dealership.
I believe you are talking about the metal dowel pins that keep the tranny from shearing itself off the block? If so, yes, eveyone be careful around these and don't EVER think of running your car without them if you mess one up



Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew
Use some care when aligning your clutch disc. I slipped in a 17mm socket and aligned it by eye. If your disc is too far off center, you won't be able to bolt everything back together and reengage the TOB. You'll possibly need a second person around to help align the tranny (CAREFULLY) onto those two previously mentoined bushings.

what pics I have will be up later.
I tried to align mine by eye and now my tranny won't go back on I know its because I didn't find an alignment tool, and my disc is probably one cunt-hair off to the left or something.

Advice to everyone, get an alignment tool, and get a friend to help you with the install, especially the reinstallation of the tranny. I haven't even gotten my tranny back on yet and my back is KILLING me.

Last edited by TrevMill; 11/02/2004 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 11/04/2004, 01:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Okay I got the tranny back on. Apparently my eyeball alignment was indeed good enough, I just need my brother to come over and turn the crank for me so that the spindles would line up!

Remember that. If you're sure you did everything right and it won't go back on, you probably just need to turn the crank a little bit.

Last edited by TrevMill; 11/07/2004 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 11/07/2004, 10:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Another thing I'd like to add. Be careful when jacking the tranny back up to the engine. The little "arms" that the shifter cables attach to got caught on something and got bent when I was jacking the tranny up. Now my side to side movement of the shifter is CRAP!

Again, this could have been avoided if I had another person helping me the whole time.

Last edited by TrevMill; 11/07/2004 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 11/13/2004, 09:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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To sum up, when you do the clutch change the way that it recommended both in this walkthrough and in the service manual, you have to drain the tranny fluid.
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Old 02/15/2005, 07:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here's a quick video of how the TOB disengages:

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/clutch/TOBDisengage.AVI

Pushing down on the TOB simulates the moving of the clutch release fork to the driver side to allow the retaining ring on the backside of the pressure plate to expand and let the TOB go.

Also, to be able to remove the drive axles, you'll need a 32mm socket.
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Old 01/11/2007, 10:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a small update in regards to the clutch install that I think is very relevant considering the pain in the ass Mitsubishi's throw out bearing can be to disengage. First I'm going to regale you with a story before I get to the meat of this post.

A few months ago an individual called me up and had some questions about his flywheel. Apparently he was not able to disengage his throw out bearing (here after referred to as TOB) and was forced to use an oxyacetylene torch to cut off the 6 10 point bolts that holds the flywheel together. He did this by removing the plate in the oil pan that is the window into the tranny. I thought this guy was retarded for not being able to remove his TOB and having to destroy his flywheel in order to get his transmission off the engine.

Today I understand that the retard was me for thinking he was retarded. I encountered a TOB that was jammed on the input shaft. To disengage the TOB you must move the clutch fork completely to the right after inserting a screwdriver inbetween the retaining ring on the pressure plate and the TOB. By twisting the screwdriver you are able to pop the TOB off of the snap ring in the retaining ring and this allows you to seperate the trans. Unfortunately, the car I was working on today had a snap ring that was cocked like / when it should have been like | and it would not allow the TOB to fully seat on the retaining ring so that I could release it. In other words I was unable to move the clutch fork all the way to the right as the TOB was jammed due to an improper installation.

I was really stumped for a bit as I pondered the several ways I could still get this transmission off. I thought about the guy who had to torch them off and was almost resigned to the fact that I would have to do the same thing. I actually ended up using an air chisel to knock the 6 bolts on the back of the flywheel loose. This allowed the transmission to drop just as if it was an auto trans. OMG that was a nice feeling not having to manipulate the trans to get it off. BUT that destroyed the flywheel. The flywheels are balanced from the factory and you cannot bolt them back together afterwards if you want it to be dead right. The imbalance can destroy your crank and ruin your motor. It also didn't help that I destroyed the bolts in the process.

Once I got the transmission off, I still had the dilemma of how to get the pressure plate, clutch disc and the remainder of the flywheel out of the transmission. I tried prying on it a bit but eventually gave up as the resistance was futile. (yes I'm a geek... :lol)

Out of no where a moment of genius struck me. The 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel are actually accessible through the port in the transmission where the clutch fork enters the trans. Using a 12mm socket and a narrow ratchet, I was able to rotate the flywheel to where each bolt was accessible and remove them. This allowed me to remove the remainder of the flywheel, the clutch disc and finally destroy the snap ring so that the pressure plate disengaged from the TOB and could be removed from the bell housing.

So what is the moral of this story? If you encounter a situation where there is just absolutely no way to disengage the TOB in the traditional way, you have an option that will allow you to save your flywheel and not have to go through the pain in the ass headache that I went through today. A job that should have taken me 5 hours from start to finish ended up taking me 7 hours just to get the trans out. Just remember that you can unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel through the clutch fork window w/ a 12mm socket. This will allow you to get the trans off and then you can deal with disengaging the TOB from the pressure plate w/ the transmission out of the car.

Hope this helps anyone who happens to get stuck in this sucky situation. On a positive note, I didn't destroy anything of value as his flywheel was completely shot w/ over 50 stress and heat fractures in it.

Good luck!
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