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Old 11/20/2012, 02:49 PM   #1921 (permalink)
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What do you mean front? There are a lot of bushings up there. The suspension is 100% prothane. I used all prothane mounts too until I destoryed them so now I'm going to the Energy suspension front and rear mounts.
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Old 11/20/2012, 02:52 PM   #1922 (permalink)
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He used ES by brackets he means the ones on the actual car where the bolt goes through to hold k member in place.
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Old 11/20/2012, 02:52 PM   #1923 (permalink)
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Bushings on Front engine mount.
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Old 11/20/2012, 02:53 PM   #1924 (permalink)
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The little bushings in the picture come with the energy suspension motor mount kit.
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Old 11/21/2012, 06:23 PM   #1925 (permalink)
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My 3rd set of front & rear prothanes are already starting to stretch and crack again. Energy Suspension is definitely going to be my next set, mainly because they're solid. If you get them in before I do, let me know how the vibration is.

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Old 11/21/2012, 11:17 PM   #1926 (permalink)
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My 3rd set of front & rear prothanes are already starting to stretch and crack again. Energy Suspension is definitely going to be my next set, mainly because they're solid. If you get them in before I do, let me know how the vibration is.
A review will be posted for sure.
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Old 11/21/2012, 11:45 PM   #1927 (permalink)
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I had a blown front mount and installed just the front ES solid insert. I immediately felt it. I can guarantee their better then the perforated prothanes.
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Old 11/22/2012, 08:39 AM   #1928 (permalink)
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My 3rd set of front & rear prothanes are already starting to stretch and crack again. Energy Suspension is definitely going to be my next set, mainly because they're solid. If you get them in before I do, let me know how the vibration is.

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I put the ES Front motor mount bushing and crossmember bushings in and there was almost no vibration. It was a very good and quality product I would say. I personally loved it.
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Old 11/26/2012, 08:38 PM   #1929 (permalink)
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It's safe to say, I will never have to buy sanding rolls again. Ever.

Sears stopped carrying the 10$ bags of 50 I'd been using for years now so I went on eBay and just so happened upon this one random shipment. 2400 of them.
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Old 11/26/2012, 08:44 PM   #1930 (permalink)
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Old 11/26/2012, 08:44 PM   #1931 (permalink)
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Going to start selling porting kits for DIY?
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Old 11/26/2012, 09:18 PM   #1932 (permalink)
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Nah. Might invest in a few more mandrels though so I can get through tasks faster since swapping out rolls will have no long have adverse affects other than time loss. These things don't shrink and stick to the mandrels like the others did.
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Old 11/26/2012, 10:47 PM   #1933 (permalink)
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Old 11/28/2012, 06:51 PM   #1934 (permalink)
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I bought a box of those a long time ago lol. It came with 8 mandrels though. I have the 2 speed dremel and on the high speed it keeps slinging them apart so I have to be careful with it unless I need to go slow which sucks for porting.
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Old 11/28/2012, 07:15 PM   #1935 (permalink)
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These are wayyyy bigger than anything you could put on a dremel. 3/4 x 1 on a 1/4" shank mandrel. I run them on a die grinder good for 35k RPM's and a home made rheostat so I can use them at any RPM. Carbide burrs too.
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Old 01/06/2013, 12:38 PM   #1936 (permalink)
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Been awhile. After a good month and a half of sitting it's time to commence this journey once again.

It wasn't too happy with me for firing it up when it's 18 degrees out but after a moment it perked back up and ran as happily as it always has. I let it idle up to operating temp and explored a few things. One freeze plug is leaking coolant, just a tad but it was a relief to find it wasn't anything to worry about. I have three pretty good exhaust leaks, two of which are preturbo. Fixing those should net some spool time among other revisions I have going in. Engine moved around plenty of the broken mounts to no surprise.







Plenty of revisions coming. I am all but pulling the engine, it'll be stripped right down to the heads once again and rebuilt from there up after a few fasteners checked and retorqued. Trans will be dropped, exhaust revised, new coldside setup put in and a few other misc things pruned and re-tacked down. Should be clean and free of leaks of all sorts this spring and this time the power will get to the ground.

Getting a bit fancier with a new one of these as well.
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Old 01/06/2013, 02:59 PM   #1937 (permalink)
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Sounds good. Maybe with that new exhaust revision, consider a secondary rear manifold. 3" pipe fits perfect between it and starter and can keep the AC fan

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Old 01/06/2013, 04:55 PM   #1938 (permalink)
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Nahh. Revisions won't be that serious. The hotside is almost perfect as it is, just one mild tweak is in order along with the new gaskets and one weld on the downpipe. There are no problems resulting from having the exhaust where it is. Even when it's 100 out and I'm idling I have no overheating issues.

I'll mostly be playing with the cold side and top end. I should drop at least 750 RPM's of spool time, 1000 if it works better than I've calculated and it'll still maintain the top end breathing it already has. Should make the same numbers on a few less pounds too. Not only that but this time the output will actually reach the pavement..
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Old 01/06/2013, 11:51 PM   #1939 (permalink)
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Can't believe you are tearing it apart again, but I understand. I hope you document as well as you did before
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Old 01/07/2013, 12:16 AM   #1940 (permalink)
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Old 01/07/2013, 08:58 AM   #1941 (permalink)
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Can't believe you are tearing it apart again, but I understand. I hope you document as well as you did before
The plan was never to tear it all the way down but I surpassed the holding capacity of my clutch, of any 3g clutch in production for that matter so I have to tear it down and get creative.

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I hate software but perhaps.
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Old 01/07/2013, 09:44 AM   #1942 (permalink)
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Old 01/07/2013, 12:29 PM   #1943 (permalink)
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At that power level who needs gears. Just weld it into third gear solid.
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Old 01/07/2013, 04:05 PM   #1944 (permalink)
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At that power level who needs gears. Just weld it into third gear solid.
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Old 01/07/2013, 04:11 PM   #1945 (permalink)
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Old 01/07/2013, 04:20 PM   #1946 (permalink)
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Old 01/22/2013, 05:39 PM   #1947 (permalink)
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Fuck automatics. Competition is hands down my favorite clutch brand. I've put them in a few cars and they hooked me up again!

500+ pounds at the wheels? No problem!



New friction plate for the flywheel


I'll have these bad boys together later tonight. Tomorrow they go to the machineshop for balancing.

And if anyone is curious (I will probably write a how to later for searching's sake):
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Old 01/22/2013, 06:22 PM   #1948 (permalink)
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Old 01/22/2013, 08:31 PM   #1949 (permalink)
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Hope you're used to a 6-puck clutch. If not, you'll get used to it lol.
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Old 01/22/2013, 08:35 PM   #1950 (permalink)
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You're such a noob Jake. I've been driving an unsprung 6 puck for three years in my PERSONAL car.
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Old 01/22/2013, 09:04 PM   #1951 (permalink)
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Flywheel serviced.




Ready to be balanced. I'll be droppin' it off tomorrow and beginning prep for Saturday's big tear down.
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Old 01/22/2013, 09:51 PM   #1952 (permalink)
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Re: Been a long time coming

Can't beat a $50 replacement. I did it when my spec stage one exploded.
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Old 01/22/2013, 09:53 PM   #1953 (permalink)
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Yeah I originally thought the one it came with didn't look so bad but they're made of cast steel so there is nothing one can do with hand tools that promote life at all. I wire brushed that insert for a solid 15 minutes and degreased it and it still looked like that. $50 is cheap insurance at this point.
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Old 01/23/2013, 05:15 PM   #1954 (permalink)
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Clutch will be done Friday, tear down begins Saturday. In the mean time I started on some other winter plans for the thing. I'm already running a gutted and ported XG manifold but I have since learned a few new tricks and adopted a few new tools which allow to me to take it way further.

XG manifolds come on Hyundai XG300's, XG350's and Kia Sedona's in their earlier application. XG models came with EGR, Sedona's did not.

This is where the EGR would mount but this is a Sedona manifold. I wanted to see if it was cast solid or not, well it is. Whatever that is worth to you. If you want to run EGR you'll need the Hyundai valve and some brass fittings to put a filter on it.

I cut off every tab that won't serve me a purpose when it goes in.

Since I'm pulling the motor out I'm going after a few details to make it all look a bit better. As much as I love working on this car I'd really like to not have to pull it apart quite this far again.

I like using tools one at a time so after shaving the outside I cut the tunnels out of the manifold.

Now that I'm done with the saw I'll go back after the exterior with a flap wheel then port the living crap out of all three sections. As it stands the setup peaks torque somewhere between five and six, I'm hoping with the new intercooler setup and intake manifold I'll be able to grab 750 rpm's of spool time, some more torque out of boost and peak torque around 6. That'll give me a 4500 RPM power band and that will give me everything I need to shatter some records.
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Old 01/23/2013, 11:26 PM   #1955 (permalink)
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Old 01/25/2013, 10:09 PM   #1956 (permalink)
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For whatever reason I've found the motive again to jump head first into all these projects again. Curiosity finally got to me and I tore down the Brembos that have been sitting on my shelf for ages.

Air wouldn't do it, literally had to pry (carefully!) the pistons out of them. Seals had this weird white stuff caked in there and they were suck in the housings like they'd been overheated pretty good. Fine with me, I'm rebuilding all four corners along with the visual refreshment. I'm just going to spray them since anything that gets the spray will kill powder as well, no point in making an already expensive endeavor another 250$ more.

And so it begins.

Lots of things to address, this is going to be yet another massive project. Comes apart pretty quick though, it's organized chaos. Stopped here for the night because the bumper comes off next and I am dreading that more than dropping the trans.

Headlights > bumper > intercooler piping > radiator > exhaust > turbo > clutch time.

I'll breath easy once the clutch is in and it's back on four mounts.
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Old 01/25/2013, 10:35 PM   #1957 (permalink)
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im seeing more of these xg manifolds pop up more instead of the 75s. Whats the difference between them. As far as making them our cars what needs to be done.
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Old 01/25/2013, 10:49 PM   #1958 (permalink)
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What do you mean? They bolt up like anything though they put the cruise in the single hardest place to fit it compared to any other intake manifold. It simply doesn't fit on the big block.

The XG has the most top end potential of any intake mani we have to swap. Couple guys are running them with nothing but the butterflies removed which is okay but it's a waste of potential. When they're gutter AND ported they get even stock cam motors breathing to at least 6 and I'll have multiple dyno sheets proving that once our local shop gets they dyno reinstalled at their new location. Either way it depends on where you want your emphasis, since I spool down load I don't need a torque manifold but if you're using the supercharger you'll want some help down load since the blower makes up for it up high.
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Old 01/25/2013, 11:11 PM   #1959 (permalink)
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well with the 75 manifold you need to figure out a solution for it to match the 74 tb and throttle cable. Theres also missing ports for the FPR, brake booster and etc. Is it the same for the XG. Ive never seen one in person so thats why im asking. I also know theres like a couple of versions of xg manifold that might.

Im just trying to see if its easier to swap a xg manifold opposed to the 75 manifold cause i really dont want to redo my intercooler piping along with some other things
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Old 01/26/2013, 08:54 AM   #1960 (permalink)
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If you use the 75 manifold it's easiest to use a 74 throttle body that has 3 ports on top because that will give you a line for the FPR. If you have two ports than just use a vacuum T off the other post butterfly port. The brake booster and evap fittings are there.

If you weld on the 74 throttle body flange you're pretty much golden. I've been using a one inch piece of sheet metal to mount the cable brackets off the top bolt for the EGR valve then cutting the cable to length and using a crimp ferrule. Only if the cable binds too much though, that's only had to happen on a single car.

The XG manifold has every port, if you aren't' running every emissions piece you'll be plugging some of them. Has the same throttle body mount as the 74 manifold. So long as you aren't running cruise control the only thing you'll have to work at all is the bracket on the throttle cable because the mount on the xg manifold is a bit of a reach so you need a dremel and the shaft carbide cutter to elongate the slots a bit more.

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Old 01/26/2013, 09:04 AM   #1961 (permalink)
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nope it has all the ports and the throttle body bolts up fine (with no cruise). i suggest port matching them though
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Old 01/26/2013, 09:26 PM   #1962 (permalink)
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You're making me really curious about the XG Manifold. Would love to see some proof that it's truly more effective than our other manifold options.

Also I'm wondering if you ran into any type of fuel cut problem? I went to the track this weekend and ran, but failed miserably as every time I went into 4th gear I hit a fuel cut, killing my times. I know you had the spark blow out issue, but I'm pretty this problem is different. Just wondering
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Old 01/26/2013, 10:43 PM   #1963 (permalink)
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I have provided every resource necessary to the ends of both your questions. If you won't read for it I won't bother repeating it. The xg manifolds are old news, but I'll make a centralized results thread sometime later on.
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Old 01/26/2013, 11:13 PM   #1964 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have provided every resource necessary to the ends of both your questions. If you won't read for it I won't bother repeating it. The xg manifolds are old news, but I'll make a centralized results thread sometime later on.
If you say so.
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Old 01/27/2013, 04:42 AM   #1965 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If you say so.
check out the v6 intake manifold comparison thread
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Old 01/27/2013, 05:39 PM   #1966 (permalink)
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Moving onward. One of the repertoire of tweaks I have going in this winter is a 6" fan on the oil cooler. I waited until today to confirm space requirements.

The only thing that could cause an issue is the turn signal housing but since my cooler is inverted there is more than enough space for fit such a small fan below. The fan will be run on a switch similar to my gauges and run only in long term idle and stationary power situations as well as cool downs between runs at the track. This will help compensate for the smaller grille opening also.

One thing I've never done with cars is resurface a headlight. My previous ones were cracked so I bought these for 80$ shipped and now I want to clean them up rather than replace them.

No cracks, just the yellowing. I am researching successful means to regaining clarity but if anyone has any successful methods they can speak for feel free to share.



Nevermind the hideous RTV job. When you've had the pans off 3 times yours will look similar.

That aside what's important here is the oil seeping out of the sandwich fittings. It isn't much mind you this is 3500 miles of abuse since installation but it is unacceptable none the less. Luckily for me, Perma-cool FINALLY (for god sakes finally) came out with another batch of basic 2.5" M20 adapters that will be replacing this eBay junk once and for all.



Engine mount carnage. It's way worse than it looks.

Over the course of last season I did not hard shift once, the pictured damage is solely a result of the load put on the mounts making almost 550 pounds of torque. This mount was sleeved tight.

The pin wiggles freely given hardly any effort with just my fingers.


These pieces of crap.

The old Prothane mount kits didn't come with these. The late production run kits however do, as well as bushings that don't have relief holes and the pins are resiezed to accept 7/16" bolts that also fit into the stock mounting brackets without drilling.

Got a solid 3 years of use out of the Prothanes so I really have no complaints. They supported a bolted on 3 liter, the 3.6 NA but 15 pounds of boost finally got them. Meet the replacement.

Energy suspension bushings are heavier, more so than one would think due simply to the lack of relief holes. Along with the K member bushings and readjusted torque damper I will have the most solid driveline setup I've had thus far.

Outside...

Good day to be in the garage.

Rear mount took the brunt though.

The picture is misleading, there is a good 3/16 inch of play in the pin and it all but falls out of the bushing.

Disconnected the throw out bearing.

Everyone always whines about this but it takes less than two second. Stick a screw driver between the ring and the throw out bearing, pull the slave cylinder end of the clutch fork away from the clutch to push the rings together and twist the screw driver. This will not fail you.

And the stopping point. Working alone finally caught up with me.

I can't stomp the brakes while pulling the axle nuts at the same time and since I am without a compressor at the moment I can't get the axles out. Otherwise, it's ready to be chained up and the clutches swapped out. I'll probably have it in next weekend.

Among other things, I need a lot of new exhaust hardware. The downpipe bolts weren't even finger tight which explains the sluggish spool time I had right at the end. Going to purchase some real crimp nuts this time and lock washers for the manifold nuts, new gaskets all around and only one weld in the turboback that had a slight leak. The oil sandwich will go in, new valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and new intercooler piping as well. The project will finish off with a newly ported intake manifold, re-rebuild throttle body and perhaps even a reported lower to perfect match the heads.
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Old 01/27/2013, 05:45 PM   #1967 (permalink)
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For the frame bushings, why not just get some solid aluminum slugs milled?

As for the motor mounts, borrow a go-pro and use it on the dyno to watch the mount flex.
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Old 01/27/2013, 05:56 PM   #1968 (permalink)
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One could make an argument that it's laziness but with the amount of work at hand it would be a weak one. The truth is you could use a stack of washers all the same, needless to say I could easily drill out some shims so the member can't walk around on me. However I like the idea of having at least a little give in there should something decide to fail on me, with 100% solid bushings the load and resulting give goes entirely on the mounting hardware. Ultimately, it's just because I don't want to.

If you watch closely in the last dyno video you can see the flex. The engine bent over a bit when the engine loads up but once it spools it goes over another solid inch. The plastic deformation of the mounts is entirely fooling, if they're gone that far the engine is moving around a whole lot more. I was wheel hopping like crazy at the end of the year and launches sucked.
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Old 01/27/2013, 06:08 PM   #1969 (permalink)
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About the axles, use a large screwdriver in the vanes jammed against the caliper. Unless you have nice brakes like brembos it will not damage anything.
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Old 01/27/2013, 06:18 PM   #1970 (permalink)
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I am aware, however I wouldn't be able to get the crane over there anyway today with the fresh 6 inches we've got so I succumbed to a warm couch.
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Old 01/27/2013, 08:29 PM   #1971 (permalink)
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One thing I've never done with cars is resurface a headlight. My previous ones were cracked so I bought these for 80$ shipped and now I want to clean them up rather than replace them.

No cracks, just the yellowing. I am researching successful means to regaining clarity but if anyone has any successful methods they can speak for feel free to share.
Wet sand with 1500/2000 wet/dry sand paper and then 2 coats of UV Clear, Done. Clear and protected.
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Old 01/27/2013, 09:40 PM   #1972 (permalink)
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I'm scared to wet sand my headlights, I'm afraid ill mess up and turn them hazy. Cause I have clear coat peeling on my sonars
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Old 01/27/2013, 10:03 PM   #1973 (permalink)
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Guess you front motor mount isn't egg shaped since you didn't have any problems putting that energy bushing in there. haha had to reshape mine the last time I put prothanes.
I've had the same problem with the exhaust stud nuts being loose. Lock washers should fix that problem though. Waiting til I have a few more parts before I pull mine back off and try it. Just have to tighten them every other day or so.

I used a perma cool 182 sandwich with a M20 x 1.50 screw. very tight fit behind between the compressor bracket & oil pan without having to grind, but perfect fit none the less.
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Old 01/27/2013, 10:08 PM   #1974 (permalink)
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It egg shaped a bit but I'm not reusing it either way. I pulled brackets from the yard so I could put the ES bushings in ahead of time, I'll cut the old prothanes out later on when I'm board and recycle the brackets on another car.

I've fussed enough with them, I'm going to go to Fastenal when I get to that point and get the stainless crimp nuts so this is never a problem again. Both my downpipe gaskets are black all the way around and on both sides of the gaskets from the exhaust blowing by.

I was thrilled when Summit got the latest batch of that adapter in. When I was doing the cooler last spring they were out and didn't know when Permacool was coming out with a new batch so I am relieved as hell that I get to put quality product in there now and will be able to stop worrying about it. All the loose ends will be tied up this time, this season is going to bring a lot of mileage.
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Old 01/27/2013, 11:55 PM   #1975 (permalink)
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I used an orbital sands with a nice thick cotton rag on the end of it. Then I put some rubbing compound on the headlight and went to town on it for a good 10 minutes, swapping out rubbing compound and rags every so often. Then I used some nice car wax, and my headlight has held up through about 30+ car washes, and it barely looks yellowed.

I would say that is a good start to get it cleaned up. But there are better methods of protecting it then I used. I would say go with what ICE said and use clear coat.
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Old 01/31/2013, 05:39 PM   #1976 (permalink)
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Status report: Engine is on the chains, just haven't pulled it yet due to weather and wanting some help with it. Beyond that the parts supply is developing well.

Waiting for me at the shop:
Gear oil specific for wavetrac
New set of plugs

In shipping:
Exhaust wrap
Valve cover gasket set
Oil cooler fan

Received:
2.5" straight tubing
Oil block adapter

Perma-cool #182

Mine came with an M18 adapter, we need the M20 but I already have an adapter from another sandwich that will work.

The build quality of the piece is astonishing compared to the eBay crap I've been working with. It even puts 3sx's billet adapter out. It's raw and unfinished but it's solid, has great machining and full sized ports. It's ready for glory, it's gonna get it too.

Things like these are what make boosting these cars way more expensive than what is usually taken at face value.

It is also the difference between one that performs and one that performs always, reliably and for a long time. These are all-metal lock nuts with corresponding 11.8 zinc coated lock washers. So help me god the exhaust will stay tight.

The studs in the heads are M10 1.25, the studs in the manifolds for the downpipes are M12 1.25.

The late problem is I can't find exhaust gaskets for the Fed Spec manifolds. Neither carquest nor oreily has them. I'm looking for the GOOD exhaust gaskets, not MLS nor the cookie cutter foam crap. Not even the dealer has them but I might just end up having them custom ordered if I can't get them anywhere else at all.

Clutch will go in no later than Saturday. Then reassembly begins and all these upgrades and fixes will find their homes in the bay. Going to clean a lot of things up and route some wires and hoses in more convenient places.
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Old 01/31/2013, 06:46 PM   #1977 (permalink)
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You looking for the graphite gaskets? Buy sheets of gasket material and make your own. What's wrong with the OEM style steel layered gaskets?


Stainless locking nuts? If not, you should have just asked me, I have BINS of those at work dude.
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Old 01/31/2013, 10:53 PM   #1978 (permalink)
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You looking for the graphite gaskets? Buy sheets of gasket material and make your own. What's wrong with the OEM style steel layered gaskets?

Stainless locking nuts? If not, you should have just asked me, I have BINS of those at work dude.
OEM is what I want, steel O ring and two layers or material. The foam crap just burns away, the real MLS gaskets have zero forgiveness in an environment that consists of such extreme vibration and heat.

Meh. I drove all over the place looking for them and found them at the hardware store I used to work at two hours later. I was just going there for the thread pitches so I could find them online but then they had the all-metal locking style so I said screw it and picked up a set.

Among other things I'm trying to figure out how I can recirc the wastegate so it isn't so god forsaken loud.
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Old 01/31/2013, 11:10 PM   #1979 (permalink)
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That style, the embossed/raised ring around the ports, right?
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Old 01/31/2013, 11:12 PM   #1980 (permalink)
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Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.Bitter is clearly one sexy bitch.
Oh and you know you can MAKE locking nuts, just take a hammer and dent the ends in some.
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