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Old 05/25/2011, 09:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Been a long time coming

Built motor in prior to turbo:


On the dyno, NA output.


7 psi of boost


Spinning on the dyno at 15 pounds.














2014 Update It's been blown up and parted out twice and now rebuilt.













Latest Dyno




Latest mods list:
Wheels:
Evo 8 Enkei’s

Tires:
Front – Hankook Ventus RS3 255/40R17
Rear - Bridgestone Potenza Grid 245/45/R17

Brakes:
Brembo front calipers
Stoptech slotted rotors
Stoptech pads
AEM oversize rear disc kit

Drivetrain:
Quaife LSD

Clutch:
Comp stage 4 sprung 6 puck kit
New OEM throw out bearing

Shifting:
Megan SS
Prothane shifter bushings
Brass cable bushings from Speed Source
Custom SS clutch line

Mounts:
Ingalls ETD
ES Roll stops and K member bushings
Prothane Sides

Suspension:
100% urethane bushings
Bomz rear lower tie bar
D2's
Alignment kits

Boost setup:
Custom Holset 6764
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Custom hotside in and out
Mailbox resonator catback
TR10C intercooler
Custom coldside all around
Greddy RS

Top end:
Second stage ported and rebuilt throttle body
Deep PNP 6g75 UM
Fully ported LM with PCV delete

Heads:
SPE stage 2+ cams
SPE springs
Full port and polish


Shortblock: 3.6 liters
9:1 custom JE Forged pistons
Custom H beams
Fully balanced and blueprinted - ARP mains

Fuel:
AEM 320
Big bore rails – AN 6 fittings/loop
Fuel Lab mini FPR
Evo 560's

Ignition:
MSD 6A ignition box
MSD Blaster SS Coil
NGK wires
NGK BKR7E @ 0.028

Cooling:
Mishimoto Aluminum radiator
FB Pushers run via stock control box
180* Gates Thermostat

PCV setup:
1/2" ID vents
Catch can VTA






The story as it began:
I've had enough people asking me to make a thread and since the mods like to keep things specific I guess I'll round everything up here. I'm not huge into the whole "oh boy look at my shit" stuff but for those into performance and the knitty gritty on this platform, maybe you'll find something useful or at least interesting.

History:
Bought my 3g back on December 19th, 2008 for 6k flat after taxes and fees. Had 83k on it, but it was in rough shape. Needed brakes and tires, eventually a harmonic balancer and belts, both window regulators, a complete rear suspension rebuild, a new clutch, and the usual maintainence stuff. I did the clutch in december which rounded out the last of all these repairs and have enjoyed driving a reliable, well running car for until last wednesday, well almost.

Now:
For those of you who have stuck your head into the performance sections this forum you've probably seen glimpses of what I've been up to. I've done a fair amount of exploration but all of it has been oriented towards a turbo build on a 6g74. Not just any turbo, and not just any 6g74. Well, now the time has come. I've got all the parts and the shortblock is due in tomorrow or Friday. I tore into the car last Wednesday, I'm still very busy but its been the focus of daily work so I'm getting places with it. Here's a few shitty pics of what's going on.

I'd also like to mention I'm breaking the motor in NA which is why the turbo stuff isn't relevant just yet.

First thing I decided to do was strip my interior. Its really easy.

Actually I just pulled the seat cushion to put in my Walbro 255, the hatch trim is out because the PO cracked it when he deleted the rear wiper and it rattled enough to end its presence in my car. The install is very simple, just a serious pain in the ass. Since my car is of Iowa origin, the area under the seat was fully of dust from a gravel road which essentially siezed the black ring onto the assembly, as well as 12 years of age. Luckily I got the stinker off and swapped the pumps out. For anyone doing this install a belt sander works 1000x easier then a Dremel for shortening the stock pickup sock. Once back together I let it idle for a couple minutes to make sure it sealed properly, it runs noticeably richer without a real fpr and the stock tune.

Parked it at last. Been working towards this day for 2 years.


First thing I pulled off was the muffler. Stupid thing cracked off the pipe 2 weeks before breakdown day. Stock exhaust minus this and an extra resonator, sounded awesome.


Started the tear down.


Hubs out


Keep on pullin stuff


Drained all the fluids. This being the trans. Fluid was still very clean from the clutch job I did 3k ago.


Ready to pull engine and trans


Stock motor came out easily. I pulled the exhaust manifolds off hoping to find something worth porting and was direly disappointed. The 00 Fed spec manifolds aren't actually cast, they're two halves and two flanges all welded together. There isn't enough metail to actually make them flow worth shit so I have to figure something else out. Might just use the RPW shorties I have. Anywho, the front of my motor has been doused with oil. It saturated even the exhaust gaskets. Can't figure out how it bled so much, the oil cap was always tight and I couldn't believe the valve covers would let this much go with a good clean PCV valve.


Exedy stage 1 clutch, put it in 3k miles ago with a resurfaced stock flywheel. Broke it in properly, it grabbed wonderfully. The machining on the flywheel is still fully visible and feelable and the disc is very healthy.


Out and shoved in the corner until future attention.


Shot of the whole situation.


One of the more irritating tasks... soldering in the IAC pigtail. The one off the 74 harness uses much thicker gauge wire and my heat sinc kept biting through the insulation, not to mention there isn't any good work surface in there. Got her done nicely though, shrink wrapped then wrapped with 3 layers of tape.



The next attention was given to the 6g75 upper manifold. Specific details on it can be found here: 75 Galant Upper manifold swap thread
The final task was fitting the throttle cable to the manifold. I had a bracket premade but of course the adjustment still wasn't enough. I actually simplified it a lot in the end. Just a basic SS L bracket and the 6g74 manifold tb cable bracket bolted onto it. Nice and sturdy too.


Next on the list was/is the ECU. Since I have an 00, I'm fucked for tuning. I have an Emanage ultimate, but I want to give the stock ECU's a run for their money with big maps first. I have an 03 GTS Ecu and a 1.3 cable, already tested them and they work together fine. I pulled the 00 to send out to a friend (Thanks Teyler/Black_Out!) to read for me since he has a 2.0 cable. Once I have that ROM I'm sending it to Acamus for a custom big maps ROM, a knock off of Damian's/02meclipse. Its a late 02 ROM so its the 3 pulse distributor reluctor (Thanks charles and greg) and the 3 bar Evo MDP sensor. Anywho.


Anyone who attempts this should be weary of the main harness. You can tear it when squeezing the ECU out of there and I also warn the bracket its on is sharper then it looks as I got a nice red surprise when thing got tight.

My buddy Connor is my helper on this and he was off doing his own thing for awhile so I took an hour to get started on some of the tedious suspension stuff. Moog endlinks and prothane bushings for the control arms and sway bar is the plan (Front, rear is another story I'll cover later). I cut the links in half then popped them with a 2' break bar just to see how easy it was. The link flexes plenty before it pops but neither are good, they are junk. Come out in about 15 pieces too.


Today, May 25, 2011. Things get real. The engine was out last Thursday but between Rugby and a weekend up north and Connors starter blowing progress slowed. I was pissed, and ready to kick some ass. Went to my shop to kick 'em in the pants to getting my shortblock done. Supposedly it'll be done tomorrow, if not, Friday. He said he'd give me the final price by the end of the day but he never called so I'm going to have to wait til Friday to pick it up anyway. That's fine because I've got plenty to do. After that I went to mitsu and ordered the rollers and speedo gear for the Wavetrac. Between trips I managed this:





Stock pumpkin vs Wavetrac. The Wavetrac is a 12 lb tank. I now understand why people break these things so often (my stocker is officially up for sale). The sun gears are tiny, and worthless. The pin that holds the sun axle in also likes to fall out so I'm surprised people don't throw them more often. There's an awesome thread on the differential stuff here: Limited Slip Differential Install Thanks to everyone who is and will be helping me and contributing info to that.

Anywho, that's all I got for now. Plan for tomorrow is still a bit up the in air. I'll know better what's next when the engine is home but for tomorrow I'm thinking I'll do the control arm and sway bar bushings and install/grease the Moogs then start wiring up the gauges. The biggest thorn in my side right now is the exhaust. Since I'm going all custom I have to fab it up and get lots of costly materials. Furthermore the fucking o2 sensors are seized in tighter then I knew what to do about so I had to cut them off the car. Still have to get them off the exhaust so I'll have to nuke them with pb blaster and put a big bar and hope they pop. Otherwise its smooth sailing ahead. Differential bits come Monday so I'll zip that up then and hopefully begin assembling the 74. Friday I'm working on the car all day so I'll get as much done then as I can and hopefully get it running sometime late next week.

More pics and stories to come!

Last edited by Silvertune; 11/23/2014 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 05/25/2011, 10:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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damn youve been doing some insane work i cant wait till you finish up this build i wanna see the numbers on this thing
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Old 05/25/2011, 11:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You actually do have an eclipse Justin!! I thought you've been lying the whole time!!
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Old 05/25/2011, 11:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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why not just buy new o2 sensors? have fun with the build!
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Old 05/26/2011, 12:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rsingh12 View Post
damn youve been doing some insane work i cant wait till you finish up this build i wanna see the numbers on this thing
400whp and 400+wtq is the plan. It is more then doable with the turbo I'm building, people on Tuners have pushed it deep into the 500whp range. I'll be making 400 on a much smaller level of psi.
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Old 05/26/2011, 12:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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why not just buy new o2 sensors? have fun with the build!
Thanks. A pair of o2's is like 100$ at the cheapest, and that's ordering off rock auto and waiting for shipping. It'd be cheap and easy to put a wrench on the current ones and reusing them. Plus I guarantee they work, some of the replacement stuff is hit and miss.
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Old 05/26/2011, 12:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
it is what it is
 
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wow, looks like quite a project, can't wait to see it done
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Old 05/26/2011, 08:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
Thanks. A pair of o2's is like 100$ at the cheapest, and that's ordering off rock auto and waiting for shipping. It'd be cheap and easy to put a wrench on the current ones and reusing them. Plus I guarantee they work, some of the replacement stuff is hit and miss.
Dude, eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...Q5fAccessories

$46.50

BOSCH 15733 Oxygen Sensor | eBay

$50.95.
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Old 05/26/2011, 04:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have been following this build for quite sometime glad to see some pics and info on here
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Old 05/26/2011, 06:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune View Post
400whp and 400+wtq is the plan. It is more then doable with the turbo I'm building, people on Tuners have pushed it deep into the 500whp range. I'll be making 400 on a much smaller level of psi.
damn man thats insane i want to see this finished lol
Will you finish it before Charles
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Old 05/26/2011, 06:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rsingh12 View Post
damn man thats insane i want to see this finished lol
Will you finish it before Charles
rsingh12, I'll be polite here and say to you don't try to start any drama by bringing my 3G build into this as there isn't any competition or race between myself and anyone here. Sure he'll finish it before me and I hope he does. You know I'm building 2 other cars by the same person which is my focus right now. This is Silvertune's build thread and let's be happy for him while watching his work. Let Silvertune do his thing, I'll do mine and you do yours.


Now,

Congrats Justin . I'm glad to see your progress as I know it's been a struggle but without struggle there is no progress. I'll be watching this thread and if I could further assist you in any way let me know. I'm kind of slow when it comes to answering PM's but you know I got a lot of stuff going on . Keep up the good work, I want to see your 3G hitting the streets
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Whens the car going to be finished with the turbo and everything on it

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Old 05/26/2011, 07:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Deffinately happy for you after reading all your posts the last few months, keep us updated..
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Old 05/26/2011, 08:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=finesse49ers;3080164] rsingh12, I'll be polite here and say to you don't try to start any drama by bringing my 3G build into this as there isn't any competition or race between myself and anyone here. Sure he'll finish it before me and I hope he does. You know I'm building 2 other cars by the same person which is my focus right now. This is Silvertune's build thread and let's be happy for him while watching his work. Let Silvertune do his thing, I'll do mine and you do yours.


Woah, Charles didnt mean it like that man. I have nothing but respect for you man I was just trying to be kind of funny. Sorry for the mis-understanding. Didnt mean to disrespect you
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Old 05/26/2011, 08:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Woah, Charles didnt mean it like that man. I have nothing but respect for you man I was just trying to be kind of funny. Sorry for the mis-understanding. Didnt mean to disrespect you
Aight man, it's just that kind of humor has run it's course long ago. We're good.


Silvertune do your thing bro.
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Whens the car going to be finished with the turbo and everything on it

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Old 05/26/2011, 09:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Aight man, it's just that kind of humor has run it's course long ago. We're good.


Silvertune do your thing bro.
yeah i know what you mean man
on 2nd part
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Old 05/27/2011, 08:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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awwwwww snap
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Old 05/27/2011, 10:27 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Oh man guys. I hold no animosity for any other 3ger here except maybe a few of the idiots poluting the forum with their misleaded antics. By that I mean I am in no way competing with anyone, least of all Charles. I have a great respect for what he is doing and have learned through my own endeavors about taking ones time. I have afterall been working on this since June 15th 2009. That day I bought a 6g72, a hoist and a stand and began learning. Honestly I say for any noob starting from zero (and I'm sure some of you remember when I was there) who actually wants to get somewhere and get good with this car, just dive in. There's nothing you can do turning bolts that you can't fix or undo or put back together. Might be stressful, but as long as you don't cut something unreplaceable then you'll make it out fine. Reading is/has taught me the conceptual stuff, but for everything I know about the 3g I got from pulling apart my own car and others. Hands on is the way to go.

Anyway, I wasn't kidding when I said I was going all out on this. Yesterday was huge, here's a few shitty pics of what's going on.

I spent a good 4 hours at the junkyard on Monday looking through suspension setups. I wanted a few parts for my own so I could trade out some bushings ahead of time. Didn't find anything worth pulling, so I went ahead and ripped mine apart anyway. I must comment though, after looking through thousands (literally thousands) of suspension setups I have to compliment the 3g's. Geometrically its a great design, tubular rear arms, rigid geometry, the fault is the soft stock bushings. These things kill the handling of the car, along with a set of soft springs and shocks. However even with the stock springs and struts its extremely improveable. This is how:

Rip the worthless shit out. A full prothane bushing set for our suspension goes for under 200$. If you go for the gold get 2 pairs of GST upper knuckle bushings too to do the upper and lower bushings on the rear knuckles to perfect it (this is what I've done/am doing).

For anyone whose done motor mounts, particularly if they've sleeved them tight, take the difference that gave between stock and apply it to every bushing in the suspension. The difference is astounding.

For those who have the 00 like me, we have a slightly different control arm setup in front then the rest of the years. The big bushing has an outer sleeve but not inner. The peg on the C-arm rids rid on the bushing (other years have an inner sleeve too). This allows the peg to rust and bind up the bushing and tear it up. The small bushing has an inner sleeve but not an outer sleeve so you can press it out and pull the rubber out of cut the entire thing out.

The previous owner did a lot with sound, so there was a lot of wiring that I've been cleaning up. There's one hole in the firewall intend to use for the gauges, of course I may need to make it a bit bigger. The MN rust is killing me, though I'm getting rid of a lot of it.


Back to the C arms. For anyone wanting to do bushings, you don't need a press. It makes life hella easier but the second option is the employment of hole saws. I have 3 sizes that I've done the whole suspenion with. I'll need one more to do the rear upper arms later this month. The trick is at Ace Hardware, their Bi-metal saws are unstoppable and super durable. I've put them through 1.5" of solid aluminum and multiple bushings without issue. Only bit of warning is in any case that the bushing starts to burn or melt, DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES. It is insanely toxic, it can kill you. That said I've never had an issue.


While doing the control arm bushings it is stupid not to do the front sway bar bushings too. They're a whopping 10$, and I garentee your stocker are shot. I could move my bar all over the place, as well as bend the crap out of the endlinks.





With the prothanes in it is rock solid, I can't wait to drive it. (camara is sidways, the bushing comes out the bottom)

Prothane everything with Moog endlinks freshly installed and greased, all set to go.


My 3 gauge pod was painted silver by the PO, so I went and returned it to black with some Krylon Fushion, very good plastic paint when applied right.

I used this same paint on my bumper inserts 2 years ago and it hasn't chipped or decolored even after 2 winters.

Next task, finishing the injector harness. On GT's the rear harness is a completely seperate entity that you can unplug. I had an extra one so I hacked that up ahead of time, so I had to finish the front now that its high impedence duties are over with.

10 ohm 20 watt resistors bought off amazon. Only get the 20 watt, 10 watt will blow during extended use.

I used to hate wiring and electronics. Now I don't mind at all. I've done probably 6 hours of soldering this week alone.

Resistor goes on the hot/red wire. I'm also switching out the injector clips to run my PT 550's.

Finished product. I taped the resistors to the plastic casing for the time being which is why its so ugly. Once I have the clips on the injectors I'll cut the tape off and place them permanantly in the perfect place so they won't pull on the wires. It'll look nicer too. Everything was shrink wrapped with super nice heat shrink, its a clear kind that melts on the inside when it shrinks so it makes a perfect seal.


For anyone who gets a mishimoto radiator... bring your dremel. The stock fans fit, almost. You'll have to enlarge the holes in the mounting tabs at least a little. I got the drivers fan to bolt up just fine but the bottom 2 mounts on the passenger fan were off so I had to cut it a little. Also, don't be freaked out if a few fins have been brushed when you open it up brand new. Its packaged wonderfully but even though mine was brand spanking new a few fins were mildly tweaked in shipping.


Finished product.


That's all for yesterday's progress. Now I'm off to go pick up the shortblock. Yes, for real, time to pick this mofo up.
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Old 05/27/2011, 10:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Did you have to drop the cross member to remove the front sway bar
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Old 05/27/2011, 03:46 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Did you have to drop the cross member to remove the front sway bar
Yeah drop the cross member then the control arms. 10 bolts total, big parts but very easy.
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Old 05/27/2011, 03:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yeah drop the cross member then the control arms. 10 bolts total, big parts but very easy.

Hmmmm seems easy enough. Probably have to have something support the engine while dropping the cross member. We shall see
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:01 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Glory.






3.6 liters of fully built V6 goodness. She's being kept sealed under wraps until monday or more likely tuesday when I can give it full attention and can bolt the trans to it right when I'm done assembling. My only fear right now is the valve to piston clearance due to the stage 2 cams. They were specified when ordering and the stock pistons don't actually have reliefs nor do the cams hit so I should be fine. I'll be claying it either way.

The other thing that came home from the shop:

Spec stage 4, to be used with 6 puck unsprung hub and a Fidanza 9 lb flywheel. Why were they at the shop? Getting balanced, that's why. Believe it or not the fhywheel just a smidge off, the pressure plate was a tiny amount off. The assembly has been balanced together so it will spin in perfection. This thing is gonna rev like no tomorrow!




Rest of the engine parts to the garage.

4 jobs left.
1) Assemble transmission. Waiting on parts from dealer which'll come Monday.
2) Pull O2 sensors and make exhaust. Gotta order exhaust parts next week...
3) Assemble engine. Gonna wait until Tuesday to do it all in one shot.
4) Wire up the gauges. This we started today.

Pulled the stock pillar trim and test fitted the pod and gauges.

Unlike most of the interior crap I see people put in, this fits like a glove.

I'm going to wire the gauges in on their own circuit running right off the battery. 10 amp inline fuse and this switch put into the fog light switch trim (I deleted my fogs).


I'm fried so I'm going to take the rest of the afternoon off to be lazy and let this all sink in. And figure out how to wire up all the wideband..
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hmmmm seems easy enough. Probably have to have something support the engine while dropping the cross member. We shall see
Actually no. As long as its got the trans mount and the passenger mount on it will hang just fine.
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:06 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Actually no. As long as its got the trans mount and the passenger mount on it will hang just fine.

Ah good to know I know my cross member bolts are rusted to hell so I'll start soaking them in pb blaster before attempting this
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Impact gun should take good care of them. I've got an 00 and I live up north and I have yet to break a suspension bolt or come to one I can't get out.
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Impact gun should take good care of them. I've got an 00 and I live up north and I have yet to break a suspension bolt or come to one I can't get out.
I've snapped plenty on this car haha actually come to think of it we had to torch some of them off because they were seized
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Old 05/27/2011, 04:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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good grief justin!!!! do it big baby boy!! i cant wait to hear this thing running. hella proud of you brotha. now i just have to keep reminding myself that i dont need to be the fastest so ill leave mine alone. lol.
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Old 05/27/2011, 06:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks BJ. I can't wait to rip them loose in first gear on a roll.
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Old 05/27/2011, 06:20 PM   #28 (permalink)
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if those cams dont work out for ya you should sell them to me haha jus saying. Anyways back to pm's
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Old 05/27/2011, 06:21 PM   #29 (permalink)
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No doubt you will be the first person I talk to if they don't work. However I don't see how they can't, the reliefs are deeper then those on the stockers and you can cam the stockers so by logic... That's what I keep telling myself anyway. I'm getting antsy. I'll probably go start working on it even though I'm supposed to be lazy right now.
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Old 05/27/2011, 07:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Ah good to know I know my cross member bolts are rusted to hell so I'll start soaking them in pb blaster before attempting this
Same here... I tried getting it off then just said fuck it cause I have been short on time.

Everything looks good glad them bushings worked out for ya.
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Old 05/28/2011, 01:50 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks BJ. I can't wait to rip them loose in first gear on a roll.
hell I can do that now and it also happens if i clutch dump in 2nd, but you'll be able to do it in third!
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Old 05/28/2011, 08:48 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Oh god, hopefully only once the turbo is in. Though with the balanced clutch and all this lightweight stuff it'll drive unlike anything I've ever driven.

I'm nervous as hell, I've done oils pans and stuff before but RTVing the main seal and oil pump is damn high stakes! Hopefully some pics later tonight.
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Old 05/28/2011, 11:09 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Did mostly house cleaning tonight. I am short one part to start on the gauges and that's a 10 amp inline fuse, once I have that I'll get going on those. As for the motor, I finished dressing the block. Installed new freeze plugs and the oil galley plugs as well. Then put the windage tray on and decided to wait til tomorrow to do the RTVing as I need some new stuff.





Question for the night: is there a gasket that goes between the water pump and its housing? Time to investigate.
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Old 05/29/2011, 02:36 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Ah shit man. You'll let me know the instant this thing is done right? Hell, I should stop by and check it out before then! Let me know. My phone is not with me right now though. But either way I definitely want to check it out.

Good luck!
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Old 05/29/2011, 10:27 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Drop by anytime between 10 and 3 during the week exc Memorial Day (working overtime). I'm always working on it. Hoping to have it running by Thursday, just depends on if the trans parts and ROM come in quick enough.
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Old 05/29/2011, 11:15 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Did mostly house cleaning tonight. I am short one part to start on the gauges and that's a 10 amp inline fuse, once I have that I'll get going on those. As for the motor, I finished dressing the block. Installed new freeze plugs and the oil galley plugs as well. Then put the windage tray on and decided to wait til tomorrow to do the RTVing as I need some new stuff.





Question for the night: is there a gasket that goes between the water pump and its housing? Time to investigate.
Progress looks great!
And as far as i know there should be a gasket between the pump and the housing, usually your new water pump comes with one.
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Old 05/30/2011, 07:54 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Went to the yard and grabbed a gasket. 5$ worth of gas and an hour of my time, it was in decent enough shape to use but I cleaned it up a little bit and installed it with some blue permatex to keep things tight. Put in some solid hours today...

Torque specs. Lots of them.


Timing stuff. Getting anxious now!


RTV-ed everything and installed. Oil pump, main seal, upper and lower oil pans.

Lower oil pan was done up with some silver high temp paint.

Water pump in.


All timing components in.

Got a bit frisky and put the PS bracket too soon. Gotta time it and put in the timing covers before that guy.

I spent probably 45 minutes just cleaning stuff. Went through half a roll of shop towels and half a can of brakekleen making sure the decks were 100% spotless.


Installing ARP head studs. Lubricate the threads with ARP moly assembly lube.


Fully dressed. Ready for the heads.


Head ready for installation.


Heads in! Not torqued yet, had to take a dinner break and figure out some misc stuff.

Whenever I'm not working on it it is covered by the bag.

I must thank BJ (boostzealot) for his help. He's been nudging me along through this keeping everything on the right track, I can't thank him enough for his help. I've done timing belts and head gaskets but this is a whole different league.

My current hang up is I don't have a torque wrench that does inch pounds, just foot pounds so I can't rebuild the fidanza's yet with locktite. I have to go to my shop tomorrow for a baleout there. Also need to bleed the lifters so I can install the rockers so I have to pick up a gallon of deisel tonight and find some wire. Once those two jobs are done timing it will be 5 minutes and if the valves clear then its another 10 minutes worth of stuff to install before its ready to drop in. Should be getting the trans stuff tomorrow and I'll zip that back up then its drop in time!
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Old 05/30/2011, 07:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I wish I had more hands. So I can give this thread 4 's
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Old 05/30/2011, 09:58 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Old 05/31/2011, 08:12 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, now we are getting somewhere.
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Old 05/31/2011, 09:57 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Whew, what a day. I put some miles down and got my shit together. At this rate, I might have it fired up sooner then I thought.

Pushed in the cam seals, lubed up the journals and popped this baby in there. Front cam in.

Slid in nicely, its tight but not too tight, perfectly in spec.

One of the big thorns in my side today.

It was half a degree off, and assembled without locktite so I (with BJ's advice in mind) took them apart.

Then I went off and ran 2 hours of errands. Stopped at the shop and picked up 5 quarts of Break In oil and got the gears torqued. Kenny was nice enough to do it for free.

Assembled with red locktite and torqued to 45 inch pounds.

Stopped by the dealer for this business.

GST speedo gear and new rollers for the diff. Fucking dealership didn't even call me to tell me they were in like they said they would. The douchebags.

Finished up the cams and gears. They spin so easily without the rockers in.


Wetted down the wavetrac and tossed it in the freezer.


The fun didn't stop, time to time it at last!


These engine are very easy to time if you pull out the center tensioner, just the roller itself not the rotating bracket. Pull that out and hole the belt over the crank cog, then bring it up and match the teeth over the front bank gear. Move the gear to match the teeth then turn it to make it tight. Then install the belt over the water pump and other gear. Turn the rear gear to match the teeth then crank it back to pull it tight, the only slack will be between the rear gear and the crank, install the center tensioner. I pried it tight with a screw driver and tightened the bolt. 2 sets of hands helps. Pulled the pin on the hydraulic unit effortlessly. Cranked it 10 times and they match perfectly.



Painted the valve covers with VHT Flame Treatment paint. Lots of coats. Lots...

Turned it to TDC and install the distributor with the rotor pointing to cylinder 1, she is set to go.


Then of course I had to go to work. While out I also picked up a half a gallon of deisel to use to bleed the lifters which I'll do tomorrow. Once those are in its the lower manifold, water housing and the accessory bracketry and its ready to bolt to the trans. Gotta reassemble the trans tomorrow too. She's comin' together!
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Old 05/31/2011, 10:14 PM   #43 (permalink)
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stop moving so fast damnit haha
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Old 05/31/2011, 10:28 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Loving the progress man.. I am learning a lot by watching this keep going with these little write ups and tips. Get that engine in!
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Old 06/01/2011, 12:02 AM   #45 (permalink)
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I was digging through some older pictures to see if there was anything interesting to post and I found a semi decent on of the car itself.



Compared to the cars on here it isn't much to look at, mainly a sharpened up stock look. My question for anyone who knows show and shine, my corners are clear with black covers. One of my fronts was ripped off by a vandal so I had to pull the other. Is there any way to replace them? I like the black way more then white.

If things go quick the engine will be one the mounts tomorrow.

And yes, I know it needs a drop. All in good time, just gotta figure out how I want to do it.
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Old 06/01/2011, 01:37 AM   #46 (permalink)
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You can nite shade them
You move as fast as your 3g is going to lol
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Old 06/01/2011, 04:34 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Ordered the rest of my exhaust parts today. It's going to be something C3g has never seen before, but I've got to do it at this point. Still have to get the O2's out of the stock exhaust... Anyway! It's been a momentuous day.


BJ walked me through bleeding the lifters and I've got to say, for anyone putting a new motor in and/or wants to get rid of any sort of lifter tick this is the ultimate must. Its insanely simple, and extremely effective, only thing is its a tad messy and tedious getting the rockers back in. I had gloves on because you work with deisel and they were so tight I couldn't get them off and on quick enough to justify a picture. However I tell you now that the first dish (the cleanout dish) was BLACK, and fully of chunks of carbon and nastiness. Even the purge dish was dark grey, I went through 2 "fill-up" bowls just keeping it clean. The lifters are all 100% solid now, and clean, very glad I bled them.

I've been a bit sick the last couple days and the anxiety of this moment wasn't helping. I'll admit I've never been so stressed out about this build until now, making sure the valves clear the pistons. With the rockers in and the belt timed all the was left was to spin that crank.

And I did. Meeting no resistance, no contact, by god the JE's clear! Of course they were designed to... but I was still nervous they wouldn't, because that would just be my luck.

Then I set to bolting on everything else that needed to go in.

RPW short tube headers, jet coated black.



And finally. Its done. Kindof.

I'm going to run it without timing covers for now, I went to install the ones I had and realized they were for the 72 so I have to snuff out some for the 74. Looking back I believe the 74 covers were all shot so I tossed them, since that was 2 years ago I'd lost track of that fact.

Spark plugs/wires and upper manifold are no in because I still need to prime it. Unlike junkyard engines (though they're worth priming too just not always necessary), a brand new engine needs oil pressure before the first startup so it isn't riding the bearings. Yes it has assembly lube but when you're firing up $15000 I'll take everyp recaution. Once its primed, I'll put in the plugs/wires and manifold.

Only tasks left are reassembling the trans and wiring up the gauges and then figuring out an exhaust. Exhaust will be post first startup, first startup will be open headers. Gauges will take maybe an hour since I have everything already. The wavetrac is at the shop getting the bearings and gear pressed onto it, I'll pick that up later.

Only 1 question left, where the hell do I gap my spark plugs to? There is enough conflicting info on this to rival that of "which muffler is best". Since its 6g7 specific, maybe someone here knows? It's a cammed up 9:1 6g7, I will pull the plugs to regap for the turbo but where do I set them now for breakin?
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Old 06/01/2011, 09:45 PM   #48 (permalink)
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looking good man. Cant wait to see the turbo in
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Old 06/02/2011, 12:52 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Justin! i am so proud to see you tackling this so well. man you follow directions very very well. told you those lifters needed it. i am as anxious so see your car start as i was to see mine start.

as far as the spark plug gap with your break-in since you are going to be NA i would go with something like 40-45. i went 44 on mine and my plugs look great still after almost 500 miles and beating on it a bit here and there. lol. but just go for stock gap for now since there isnt anything extremely special going on inside those combustion chambers....yet keep kickin ass man. oh and sorry i wasnt able to get to my phone as much today, i had a bunch of testing to do today.
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Old 06/02/2011, 09:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Sorry if the pics are retardedly big or out of focus I'm screwing around with different ways to upload them so I don't know how they'll turn out.

Today's fun:

Gauge install.


Carved a nasty hole in the firewall. Gonna have to epoxy it up...


Most people wire there gauges to wires in or under the dash, they split some wires for power and such. I don't want to screw with having to piggyback wires so I wired everything up on its own. There is one positive and one negative into the engine bay that everything is wired onto, I put in an inline switch to turn them on and off. Since I'll be relocating the battery somewhere I don't want them to suck juice when I'm trying to crank it so I can turn them on once the beast is alive.


Wires are in, but I still need to wire in a fuse and put in the sensors, its all pnp.


Finally got this thing together too. Apart from one hickup it was simple. Its set to go.


I've lifted 5 engines over the course of my chain harness' life and this finally happened when I yanked my stocker.


Figured I'd upgrade to a 1 ton link.

Its 1100 lb chain.

Put the pins back inthe block and ran the SLP over with some degreaser then put it in.

Fun fact: post 01 6g74's have only 1 bolt hole for the SLP.

And this is how it sits... trans, clutch, engine, all just waiting for a moment of attention to become one at long last. I had a rugby game, but I'm going back over there now to bolt them up and hang it on the mounts.


If tomorrow goes well, I might get the change to fire it up.
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Old 06/02/2011, 10:15 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I put a switch to turn my gauges off as well for when I didn't want to attract attention at night because the gauge lights would brighten up the cabin but also to surprise any ricer challengers, sort of like a warning You're doing great, keep it up.
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Old 06/02/2011, 10:19 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I put a switch to turn my gauges off as well for when I didn't want to attract attention at night because the gauge lights would brighten up the cabin but also to surprise any ricer challengers, sort of like a warning You're doing great, keep it up.
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Old 06/03/2011, 12:21 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Old 06/03/2011, 12:48 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Yes its a Spec and I have full faith in it. Stage 4 pressure plate, fully balanced (no they aren't perfectly balanced out of the box!), 6 puck solid ceramic disc, fidanza 9 lb flywheel (also fully balanced, it was actually surprisingly off balance out of the box), ARP flywheel bolts and a brand spanking new OEM throw out bearing. That is my clutch setup. Of course I already did all the shifter stuff and stainless clutch line too.

Shitty resolution... I'm on my laptop so I have no choice but to make them huge, sorry..

My chain harness.

Why are my chains on the ground?

Glory



I think tonight was the harness' last lift however. It seems like everything that could go wrong, did. The chains slipped a tad when I was lifting so it hung far more sideways then I wanted to I had to get it in the bay the jack up the trans side with the floor jack to get that mount in. Next time I'll have high weight ratchet straps.

Of the few sets of mounts that I've done they've always lined up perfectly but good god my passenger mount doesn't even line up and it took us half an hour of prying and whacking to get it the bolt through it.

However, it is on the god forsaken mounts! Just the few odds and ends like the gauge wiring and priming it then its basic reassembly and fire up! I have to build my ROM too, since my 00 ECU is unreadable at the moment I need to hybrid a couple maps I have onto my new immobilizer-less big maps ROM. The only forseeable problem is the post-cat mainstream O2 won't have anything to plug into so I'm nervous that'll throw my fuel trims, will it? Anyway, I'm exhaust. Beyond exhausted. Time to sleep.
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Old 06/03/2011, 01:32 AM   #55 (permalink)
ECLIPTO
 
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hey silvertune when you did the prothane bushings was that to improve ride quality?
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Old 06/03/2011, 01:45 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Wow! Impressive work dude, keep it up.
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Old 06/03/2011, 01:46 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Looking nice man, let me know if ya need an extra hand to turn a wrench. I'll zip on over if I'm not busy.
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Old 06/03/2011, 02:25 AM   #58 (permalink)
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This thread caught my eye fairly quickly. I admire what you are doing. Can't wait to see it all dialed in...
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Old 06/03/2011, 02:34 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I hope to get a look at this some day! Great progress
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Old 06/03/2011, 06:31 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Congratz!! Just talk to codeman about your ecu questions.
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