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Old 03/19/2017, 05:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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04 eclipse 2.4 idle issue got no more ideals

Could use a hand. Car has true air intake and full exhaust but no cat. Issue I have only started after engine swap (stalk motor) thermostat stuck closed and motor overheated so I changed thermostat. Problem now: rough idle at operating temperature only. Sputters and idle drops when at a stop; got a code for egr Tried: put new egr cleaned throttle body aic and mas changed tps. Took out ecu fuse and unhooked negative terminal on battery for night. Went for drive not doing it as bad but still sputtering.
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Old 03/19/2017, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No more codes yet
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Old 03/19/2017, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Which code did you pull? There are a few egr codes and not necessarily egr valve specific, from what I know at least dealing with egr issues myself. Maybe I am wrong, though; I'm still learning.

Having no cat would throw an egr code, yea? Or did you somehow bypass that?

I remember moving my tb or the sensor on my talon a long time ago to adjust the voltages to spec which helped a bad idle. Maybe this?

When changing the egr valve - all new gaskets? Nothing got in the intake possibly? The tb plate moves freely?

Mine was stalling at stops randomly and had to park and rev - couple egr codes. Just trying to throw some ideas out to you that I've been ruling out.

If you have a multimeter, maybe check the specs for the solenoid and the like. Was the egr valve oem? Some cars are picky about aftermarket.

Look up tearstone mitsubishi manual and you can find a great manual with diagrams and break downs. Wish I could help more.
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Old 03/19/2017, 06:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Egr is oem and new gasket. Haven't taken TB completely of to clean yet waiting for gasket I only cleaned the intake of it . Don't remember the code I was getting but garage hooked up to ecu and told me code reader said egr. Didn't bypass 02 sensor.
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Old 03/19/2017, 06:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Searching for answers all comments are welcome one thing I found while looking for an answer is that it may be the FIAV ? When I get more time to work on car I will do all suggestions and inform of what works
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Old 03/19/2017, 06:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Please definitely update what you find.

Same issue here at the moment except I finally replaced egr valve yesterday as signs pointed here and now I'm stalling after starting - been on her all day today. If I get her started and have same stalling issues at stops, maybe it'll be similar to your problem.

Definitely try to find what that code was you got and check the egr solenoid and like with multimeter and make sure within spec. Something about egr being slightly open at stops due to sensor/solenoid? issues which causes bad idle/stall. Only takes a few minutes.

Keep me posted.
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Old 03/20/2017, 04:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Went to work with car today codes 507 / 171
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Old 03/20/2017, 05:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Below 0 outside today to cold to work on car maybe try some things tomorrow after work
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Old 03/20/2017, 06:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That's a good start, at least, as codes give direction.

I'm going to dig around for you when I get a more time tonight.

What tools do you have at your disposal? I don't want to suggest things you can't do without diagnosis tools. I love running numbers against spec so rarely just put new parts in blindly unless I'm in an area and do it just because I'm there.

Also, no more egr code? If you were told this was an egr code and it's not there now and you have these two now, I'm thinking we can center around intake/new egr valve/vacuum issue/tb issue as egr code cleared and they'd of popped up only after messing with this area and relate to new codes.That's a good start, yea?

You said an engine swap, too - did she run fine before noticing thermostat issue and overheating? Or happen right away so not clear when issues may of started?
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Old 03/20/2017, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Lots of tools but only cheep code reader and only noticed sputtering after engine overheated (bad enough coolant overflow cover flew off) and btw when I cleaned TB I didn't take it off I only cleaned up what I could with it on the car
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Old 03/20/2017, 06:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ran fine before overheat
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Old 03/20/2017, 06:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thought could it be egr solenoid?
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Old 03/20/2017, 11:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I would do a compression test and make sure you didn't blow a head gasket. If it got hot it could have blew the gasket and compression could be blowing between the cylinders or leaking antifreeze in the cylinder
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Old 03/21/2017, 08:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah tested egr solenoid it's fine gonna make apointment for compression test will inform probably next week what the results are.
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Old 03/21/2017, 08:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Compression test would be good period after overheating, buy if you aren't leaking coolant or noticing drop, maybe even open cap and look for a white milky substance. You have any smoke from tailpipe? If no symptoms than maybe not the issue.

Before doing this, I looked at these codes online and seem to usually come in pairs - most often I see vacuum leak and maf sensor as first step - you can do these checks in very little time. I'd do them first to rule out than move on to other common issues after the simpler ones.
I'm going to post you two links, first vacuum leak checking with carb cleaner than maf sensor checking as you'd do vacuum first as not to skew sensor results.


Vacuum

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ho...e-vacuum-gauge

Maf sensor

Part 3 -The Basics of Testing a Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

If you can knock these off the list, it'll save a lot of guess work and narrow down from here.

Still do the compression test - if you do it at a garage, make sure you ask them for compression numbers both dry and wet. Look online or haynes manual for spec. You'll want to know these.
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Old 03/24/2017, 04:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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New code 108? AHHH anyone want to buy an eclipse lol got an 03 for parts to go with it lol
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Old 03/26/2017, 11:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Some of these are probably symptomatic.

How are things coming along?

Anything suggested will make no point if you aren't diagnosing. Even without expensive tools, a simple multimeter, alligator clips, and a paper clip can handle a lot of areas.

Did you run numbers?

My new egr dropped those codes and threw me a 102 so I'm about to test grounds, the sensor, and play here - cheap alligator clips, a cheap multimeter, and paper clip.

I'm sure she isn't ready to goto the graveyard - what's holding you up on the diagnosing?
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Old 03/26/2017, 01:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Waiting on garage for compression test
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Old 03/26/2017, 01:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Weather been to cold and been to busy to do any work on car. This week should be decent temp. So will try some more testing then
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Old 03/26/2017, 05:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for the links they'll help me out
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Old 03/31/2017, 04:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Update. .. rad is cracked ahh ok though I'll take off parts car. Got car scanned with a good scanner code 171 running rich vacuum leak. opened hood started car stuck head under hood and could here a slight whistling sound coming from around intake tomorrow I'll swap that out too and inspect hoses at same time.?hopefully found issue
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Old 04/02/2017, 08:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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A cheap way to do a check is using a cigar, though you may not like the taste lol I just did this for a quick check and it only costs about five bucks with no worrying about carb cleaner starting a fire.

Keep the car off. Grab an extra hose (you want maybe a foot or two for blowing length), disconnect the brake booster hose at intake nipple and secure your spare hose. Take off the air filter assembly and secure a rubber glove at tb opening be it by clamp or rubber bands. You should be Able to blow and suck with the glove going in and out the throttle body. I plugged up the hose at my air filter assembly with a thick marker.

Just light the cigar and blow in the hose you connected to intake booster hose nipple and watch for smoke coming out anywhere.

You can unplug the pcv valve, as well, from cylinder case and attach the hose on the pcv valve end. Don't disconnect the hose at the intake. Again, just blow cigar smoke in her. Make sure you reconnect brake booster hose if doing back to back.

Very simple, very easy, and a good fast check.

I'm about to make a cheap homemade smoke machine when I have more time.

No leaks on mine, but did realize I messed with tps sensor a lil. Need to check here next and the idle screws in case that's my now high idle issue.

I know we had similar codes and issues - you were in tb area - you sure you didn't hit or mess with tps sensor also?

Crossing my fingers for you - keep updating, wanna see her through!
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Old 04/03/2017, 04:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info fyi all I smoke are cigars. But I'm a detailer at Campbells Auto Sales and I've talked one of the mechanics into helping me out (wants his car buffed) and I guess they have a smoke machine. So as soon as we get time we're going to get it hooked up. I'll let you know when and of the results.
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