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Old 08/14/2012, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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hey guys as some of you know i just got a 04 mazda 6s 5spd and i changed out the spark plugs and the car has 150k on it now. what is happening is that when i am in like in any gear except 1st when i hit the throttle to full the rpms will shoot up then go down like 200 rpm then go back up then if im still in the same gear it will happen again. here is a vid i was in 5th gear when i made the vid:


now the car is not popping up any codes can somebody help me?
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Old 08/14/2012, 05:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what plugs were in it and what did you put in?
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Old 08/14/2012, 05:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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autolite is what i pulled out and ngk IX is what i put in it. but it didn't start doing this until like a month after i changed the plugs. and the weird thing is that the ngk plugs where pre-gapped for .41 and the manual says gap for .51

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Old 08/14/2012, 08:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i don't know how mazda's are with that, but i know the chrysler/mitsu v6 doesn't like many plugs-- the best ones are stock for those motors..

is it easy to pull one of the plugs and check the coloration?
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Old 08/14/2012, 09:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well thanks for the help soundman so far. i will check the condition of the plugs this weekend and i will double check the gap size. but here is another piece of info:

i notice for awhile that every time i took off from a stop on low rpm i heard a rattle from the exhaust. i took it to the exhaust shop and he tapped on the passenger side downstream cat and it sounded like there was a bunch of stuff in the cat. since this car has a dual exhaust it has two pre-cats and two downstream cats. so the guy at the exhaust shop cut a hole before the downstream cats (both of them) it helped out the bogg down just a little but did not really fix it. thats why in the vid the exhaust was so loud. took the car back to the shop and he said that probably that the pre-cats went bad and shoot crap down the pipe to the downstream cats. sorry for the long explanation just wanted to cover all the details. so this friday im going to get the holes fixed and take it up to the shop to see what they find and im going to check the plugs.
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Old 08/15/2012, 12:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Easy, clutch is on it's last legs. You have a manual transmission, the RPM are supposed to stay linear with the speed..
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Old 08/15/2012, 11:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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well i made another vid showing speed and rpm:




edit: Now it does this only under extreme loads it dies not do it under normal loads like daily driving.

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Old 08/15/2012, 06:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Stop killing the clutch even more! Do that a few more times and you'll find yourself stranded on the side of the road. It needs a clutch replacement asap.
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Old 08/15/2012, 09:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well I don't do that all the time its my daily driver not a racer I first start noticing doing this when I was getting on the interested. Well its going in the shop Friday to confirm it so how much does a clutch job run?

edit: and i was looking at a exedy oem clutch kit and i was wondering if anybody has used them before

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Old 08/16/2012, 11:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Well I don't do that all the time its my daily driver not a racer I first start noticing doing this when I was getting on the interested. Well its going in the shop Friday to confirm it so how much does a clutch job run?

edit: and i was looking at a exedy oem clutch kit and i was wondering if anybody has used them before
I have an exedy its been good to me

A clutch job can run you anywhere from 500-900 depending on if you provide parts and who does it.
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Old 08/16/2012, 12:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Not cheap, at least $600. Exedy is probably what you will pull out from there. It might be the exact same as the OEM. I've had that before

Oh also make sure you replace the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing. Maybe the rear main seal on the engine too
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Old 08/16/2012, 04:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I doubt it's the clutch. Clutches don't slip-grip-slip-grip, etc. When they're worn, they'll slip before engaging at higher speeds, especially in 3rd or 4th gear but will stay clamped to the flywheel once they engage. Unless you have a torquey vehicle which a Mazda6 is not.
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Old 08/17/2012, 07:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well I had a friend at work say maybe the fuel filter but my car does not have one it has a strainer that on the fuel pump
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Old 08/17/2012, 11:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I doubt it's the clutch. Clutches don't slip-grip-slip-grip, etc. When they're worn, they'll slip before engaging at higher speeds, especially in 3rd or 4th gear but will stay clamped to the flywheel once they engage. Unless you have a torque vehicle which a Mazda6 is not.
What else would cause the RPMs to fluctuate on a manual transmission? It can only be the clutch
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Old 08/17/2012, 01:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Well its at the shop right now and they still trying to figure it out
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Old 08/17/2012, 06:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What else would cause the RPMs to fluctuate on a manual transmission? It can only be the clutch
Any of a dozen things from a vacuum leak to clogged injectors. Especially when OP says that it suddenly happened after a spark plug change. Clutches don't suddenly slip from out of nowhere.

Personally, I think OP should backtrace his work and make sure everything is connected properly and the plugs gapped correctly.
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Old 08/18/2012, 08:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Well the shop tested everything and said its the clutch going out
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Old 08/18/2012, 11:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kabob View Post
Any of a dozen things from a vacuum leak to clogged injectors. Especially when OP says that it suddenly happened after a spark plug change. Clutches don't suddenly slip from out of nowhere.

Personally, I think OP should backtrace his work and make sure everything is connected properly and the plugs gapped correctly.
It's amanual transmission. If it's not being shifted out of gear, the engine cannot spin faster or slower in gear, it's physically connected to the tranny (well not so much anymore). Doesn't matter what's wrong with the anything else. It's simple mechanics.

Why after the plugs? The new plugs improved combustion and gave more power therefore slip. And also after people fix their cars they usually give it a nice test drive to see the difference.
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Old 08/19/2012, 09:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Well guys I'm about to order my new clutch but is there any else I might want to replace since in doing the work myself? Maybe a slave cylinder or something
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Old 08/20/2012, 01:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Rear main seal and axle seals would be nice to do. Also replace the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing.
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