HOW TO: Install V6 Prothane Motor Mount Inserts (BIG pics) - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums
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Old 12/20/2008, 05:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Install V6 Prothane Motor Mount Inserts (BIG pics)

Well I had this terrible creaking and grinding noise coming from my engine bay every time I accelerated, braked, turned or went over a bump. Turns out it my motor mounts were shot! The problem report thread is HERE so you'll know what the symptoms of a broken mount are. This FIXED the creaking!

Now here's the guide on replacing them:

Tools: Car jack, jack stands
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
Impact wrench or a really, really long bar
Sawzall or Machine press

I'll start by explaining the mount removal process. Then I'll explain later how remove the old inserts and install the new prothane inserts.


The passenger's side mount is the LARGEST mount that consists of two pieces, The driver's side is the SMALLER of the two piece inserts.
The front mount is has the LARGER metal piece and the rear uses the smaller. You can also look at the old mounts and see that the hole size matches up with the respective mounts.


First: Jack up the car and put it on the stands. Then remove the lower support bar that runs under the engine. There are 4 bolts that hold this on; two 17mm in front and two 14mm in back. The front mount is attached to the top of this bar by 14mm bolts. (It really helps to have a lift for this, but you really don't need it). Leave the bar off for now. It'll go back on last. This is a single piece mount with the LARGER center metal piece.

Front of bar:


Back of bar:


Front mount:


2nd: The passenger side mount is located behind the coolant reservoir. Take this off and remove the bracket it slides onto. (you don't have too, it just makes things easier). There are two 17mm bolts and one 17mm nut holding the mount to the engine. Place the jack under the engine and raise it enough to support the weight. Unbolt the mount from the engine and remove the center 14mm bolt (this taps directly into the frame, there is no nut). Replace insert. Its the BIGGEST double piece in the kit.
Now's the tricky part. Put the mount back into place, put the 17mm nuts and bolts back into place but don't tighten them down completely. Now raise and lower the engine to get the hole in the mount to line up with the hole on the frame. This takes trial and error but isn't that hard.

Old mount:


New mount in place (don't forget to bolt the little black bar back on top):


3rd: The driver's side mount is under the battery tray and intake. The battery tray is held on by 12mm bolts and intake by 10mm bolted straps. Remove both. This is by FAR the easiest mount to replace. Its held on by four 17mm bolts, two on either side. Again, support the engine with the jack, unbolt the mount, replace insert, put mount back on. It took me literally 10 minutes to do. This is the smaller of the two piece mounts.

Old mount:


New mount:


4th: The rear mount is a PILL and a butt to get too. Its attached by three 14mm bolts, two on bottom and one on top. The bottom one's have to be removed from under the car and the top one from the top
Take it off, replace with new. It might take some leverage using a 2X4 to rock the motor to put in the center bolt.

Top of old rear:


Bottom of rear with new mount:



Here is how to remove the center pieces.


YOU CAN SKIP THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE A PRESS.
Otherwise:

Take the mount and clamp it down REAL tight. Get a sawzall with a METAL blade and saw away! The mounts are held in by a metal ring and you want to cut through it, but NOT the mount. Its ok to get some of it... but don't cut ALL the way through the whole thing. You might have to make two cuts on either side for it to come out. Now get a hammer and something long (like a screwdriver) and smash that sucker out!

Insert the new mounts using a rubber hammer and a lot of pushing! (Grease helps, or any other kind of lube you got laying around ) It takes some work with the single piece mounts. The two piece mounts are really easy to put together.

Old passenger side:


Cutting the old mount insert:


Insert removed:


The new mount insert in place:


Smokey blade:


Now enjoy the lack of wheel hop and increased cabin vibration!

Hope this helps

Last edited by Mr Tyler; 12/26/2008 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 12/20/2008, 06:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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great how-to! silicone spray lube works GREAT to get those mounts to slip into place. it will not harm the rubber inserts, cleans up easy, and when you're done give your door locks a shot of it to keep them working perfectly smooth.
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Old 12/23/2008, 03:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I used a hack saw, but I still needed a vice to hold the mount while cutting and putting the new bushings in. Here are some pics from when I did the front control arm bushings. It is the same concept. Using a hack saw takes a lot of work labor to cut through the outer rings. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK/CUT THE ALUMINUM HOUSING ON THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT. IT CAN CAUSE A POINT THAT THE HOUSING CAN BREAK. I HAVE SEEN THIS HAPPEN.



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Old 12/27/2008, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, I'm in the middle of doing this (had to stop for the damn rain down here in Dallas LOL) and I wanted to share a few extra things I noticed that might help others.

1. The passenger side mount is loaded with a thin black oil inside some bladders in the rubber. do yourself a favor and drain that out before you start with the sawsall and save youself a big mess. Best to just cut away all the rubber best you can to make it easier to see the steel ring to cut just enough and not cut the aluminum mount. Also keeps the sawsall blade from grabbing in the rubber.

2. There is some additional steel and aluminum metal pieces in the passenger side mount that look like they are part of the aluminum mount part that you keep. They are not. It is ok to cut them and knock them out before attacking the big solid metal ring that is pressed into the aluminum mount. It makes it look like the mount comes out on both sides in two pieces but it does not.

3. The spray silicone works very well for inserting the new mounts. Thanks!!

4. Take the battery and tray out first to get to the top bolt of the rear mount. There is no need to take the intake off. You can get to the bolt just fine.

Hope this helps somebody

Oh, and I have a 2003 GT V6 for the record. Forgot to mention that.

Last edited by root6t6; 12/27/2008 at 09:59 AM. Reason: additional information
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Old 01/28/2009, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Is there a specific Torque spec for each motor mount or is it just go until you cant no more kind of deal? I searched the torque specs on the How To's but there isnt any for motor mounts.
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Old 01/28/2009, 11:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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From section 32 of the FSM:
33 ft.lbs. on all the bolts and nuts for the front and rear mounts,

Transmission mount:
61 ft.lbs. for the long nut/bolt
42 ft.lbs. for the nuts holding the mount to the tranny

Engine mount
61 ft.lbs. for the bolt
63 ft.lbs. for the nuts holding the mount to the engine
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