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Old 04/11/2010, 07:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How To: Remove/Check/Replace your ECU

After spending a good 3 or 4 hours disassembling the glove box and half the ventalation system, my brother and I learned that this can actually be done in about 10min by removing one bolt and one piece of plastic.

1. Disconnect your battery

2. The ECU is attached to the firewall at the front of the passenger side footwell, behind the glove box. In the picture below, you can see the one thing that stands between you and glory. The scoop looking vent is all that blocks access to the ECU. The only fitting is the small panel retainer to the lower left. I managed to get a screwdriver under it a pry it out, but they are pretty flimsy, you might break it. If you can get something small behind it you can push the center post back out, then pop it out.



The vent itself is only about 6" tall, and just pops onto another plastic piece farther up. You should be able to wiggle it off. If not, you can remove the glove box (see thread: HOW TO: Change cabin air filter) then reach through with one hand to hold onto the upper piece while you pull off the lower piece.

3. Now you have access to the ECU. It is a black box about 4" square. there will be 3 (or 4?) wiring harnesses plugged in on the bottom. I have a '00 fed-spec GT w/5-speed, so there were 3. The inboard one is blue, the middle one is orange, and the outboard one is green. Just push the little tab and wiggle them out. None of them are were interchangable, so don't worry about labeling them or anything. The only thing holding it in place now is a single bolt the has a couple of grounds attached to it. On my car it was just below the edge of the carpet, out of sight. Undo the bolt and the ECU assemply should slide down with no problems.

4. The black box is attached to a metal backing plate. Where it wraps around the black box, there are tabs as you can see in the pic below. Just wedge the metal bits out a little bit and you should be able to easily pull the metal plate off the ECU box.



5. Now you need to pop the case open to slide the ECU out. There are tabs on either side. I just wedged a flathead screwdriver over the tab in the middle of each side then pried the ECU out. It came out pretty easy.



6. The processor chip is the square chip. You can see the identifier circled in the pic below. Apparently, this ECU cannot be reflashed. If it said MH7202F then I would be good to go.




7. To put it, or a replacement, back in just reverse the steps.
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Last edited by mko9; 09/12/2010 at 10:45 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04/11/2010, 09:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good how-to my man.
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Old 04/11/2010, 10:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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this will sure come in handy for me in a few months when i do my ecu swap
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Old 04/11/2010, 10:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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im going to note that it is a TIGHT FIT coming out, so getting it in is twice as much of a bitch, just be patient. And dont crush any wires
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Old 04/11/2010, 10:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if you remove the short vent section (top of the first pic) that connects the blower to the main duct system its even easier to pull it out on the side. thats the way i do it. its like an extra 4 screws.
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Old 04/11/2010, 11:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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so what do you do if your ecu has no numbers on it like mine, this is my big issue, i have no idea if im flashable and i want to tune the 74 when i finish my swap
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Old 04/12/2010, 12:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I guess you can try and flash it Pace! lol
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Old 04/12/2010, 12:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZT View Post
I guess you can try and flash it Pace! lol
thats the plan, but i have zero experience using the software so i dont even know what i should be expecting, il just deal with it when it comes time. Swap is currently on hold anyways
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