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Old 08/23/2008, 11:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow Common 3G problems

Let's start with this common problem:

Problem: When the engine is under load ("goosing it", for example) you experience a loss of power accompanied by a whistling or hissing noise that stops when you let off the accelerator.

Cause:
The intake snorkel has come disconnected from the frame rail and is vacuuming itself to the bottom of the hood. It is part #17 in this diagram and you'll see it right by your radiator.


Solution:
Spend $2 on some plastic rivets at Autozone or Advance Auto or get an aftermarket intake.


Metadata search words:
Hiss, hissing, whistle, whistling, bog, bogging, power, loss
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Old 08/23/2008, 11:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Carpet wet, leak in the cabin

Problem: You often see water on the carpet, especially after running the air conditioning.

Cause: The evaporator's drain has become clogged and condensation is leaking into the cabin instead of out of the bottom of the car.

Solution: Clean the drain. Some people have success simply using a pipe cleaner to clean out the little drain pipe, which is near the center of the car side to side and is approximately below the center console front to back. The best solution however is to clean out all the mess that's accumulating in the evaporator.

Credit for pics goes to Slo_Mo








There are other solutions as well, such as using the drain from a galant, etc. Probably the best thread for this is here:

a/c is leaking water in my floor board


If your AC is draining properly, the issue is the seal around the door. This most commonly fails right by your tweeter. Replacing the gasket is the only solution of which I'm aware.

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Old 08/24/2008, 02:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Headlight Problem

Problem: One or both headlights is intermittently dim, even thought the bulbs and/or fuses are fine.

Cause: Stock harness has melted.

Solution: Replace the harnesses. HOW TO: Fixing Headlight Harnesses (dim headlight problem)

Metadata search words:
headlight, dim, bulb, harness
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Old 08/24/2008, 02:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Center Speaker buzzing or blown

Problem: There is a loud buzzing from the center channel, especially during mono broadcasts (AM, talk radio, commercials). Perhaps you've replaced it and the problem keeps coming back.

Cause: The center channel is blowing. The car was originally equipped with a center channel speaker that is not sufficient to the task based on how it is wired.

Solution: Install a 3.5" speaker. HOW TO: Upgrade Center speaker

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Old 08/25/2008, 08:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Problem: The sunroof sticks

Cause: Probably the seal, perhaps the rails

Solution: Many have had some luck by using some armorall on the back off the seal where it first pops up. You can try greasing the rails with white grease. Beyond that -- suck it up. It's a class problem.

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sunroof, moonroof, roof, stick, open
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Old 10/29/2008, 04:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citm2000 View Post
Problem: The sunroof sticks

Cause: Probably the seal, perhaps the rails

Solution: Many have had some luck by using some armorall on the back off the seal where it first pops up. You can try greasing the rails with white grease. Beyond that -- suck it up. It's a class problem.

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sunroof, moonroof, roof, stick, open
#1. Press the switch with your left hand while simultaneously pushing up on the glass gently with your right (making a fist keeps down prints). Be careful not to punch the glass out, this can cause a shower of glass and undue stress.

#2. Watch as your unstuck sunroof shutters backward like a 90 year old man with parkinsons disease.
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Old 12/17/2008, 02:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Problem: The sunroof sticks

Cause: Probably the seal, perhaps the rails

Solution: Many have had some luck by using some armorall on the back off the seal where it first pops up. You can try greasing the rails with white grease. Beyond that -- suck it up. It's a class problem.

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sunroof, moonroof, roof, stick, open
There is a solution to the sticking when opening your sun roof, u clean around where the seal meets the paint of the roof and apply silicone lubricant around the rubber seal, then white lithium grease the tracks. Try that out that should work we do that all the time at my mitsubishi shop.
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Old 12/17/2008, 09:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ya i have tightened the few screws im the tracks and that helped for about a day...just another wonderful part of our eclipses
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Old 12/17/2008, 09:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Problem: cloudy headlights

Fix: Depending on how bad it is Scratch X has worked wonders for me, or wet sanding, or by projectors until they fog up and then start over again.
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Old 06/14/2009, 10:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Problem: cloudy headlights

Fix: Depending on how bad it is Scratch X has worked wonders for me, or wet sanding, or by projectors until they fog up and then start over again.

or i had EXCELLENT results using a package i got at walmart called "CRYSTAL VIEW HEADLIGHT RESTORER/DEFOGGER" it says you dont have to take headlights off car, i did anyway, just to be able to scrub better, and didnt want to hurt paint. and it work amazing! just follow the directions and watch the online video..
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Old 06/25/2009, 11:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Problem: Ticking. Commonly called "valve tick" the problem here is the lifters.

Solution: While there are many recommendations to use sea foam and the like, here is the quick fix:
Mitsubishi Tech - Minute Mod: The 5 Minute Lifter Noise Fix

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Old 06/25/2009, 12:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citm2000 View Post
Problem: Ticking. Commonly called "valve tick" the problem here is the lifters.

Solution: While there are many recommendations to use sea foam and the like, here is the quick fix:
Mitsubishi Tech - Minute Mod: The 5 Minute Lifter Noise Fix

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Pearl01Stratcpe done this to get rid of his, but it was only a temporary fix and didnt last very long sometimes. The way i got rid of mine in my V6 was i switched to castrol syntec 5W-30 oil, and ive not heard it since the oil change.
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Old 06/25/2009, 12:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well this is kinda of a problem but not a mechanical problem...

The cup holder placement... OMFG horrible
Glove box rattling gets really annoying at idle

BTW isnt there a thread about something like this already? If the OP can find im sure you can get that info and place it in here.
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Old 09/21/2009, 07:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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HELP

i am new to the world of 3g, i have the 01 gt and there is a small black cylinder to the left of my manifold i think it is and at idle i hear this continuous clicking/ticking sound im not sure if its related to what your sayin only because i no close to nothing about cars. Any help would b appreciated. I have pictures but i cant figure out how to post them yet.
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Old 09/22/2009, 10:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrian15 View Post
Well this is kinda of a problem but not a mechanical problem...

The cup holder placement... OMFG horrible
Glove box rattling gets really annoying at idle

BTW isnt there a thread about something like this already? If the OP can find im sure you can get that info and place it in here.

I like where the cupholders are. As for the glovebox rattle, you can wrap the lock cylinder with a few winds of electrical tape.
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Old 09/22/2009, 10:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazeybtncx View Post
i am new to the world of 3g, i have the 01 gt and there is a small black cylinder to the left of my manifold i think it is and at idle i hear this continuous clicking/ticking sound im not sure if its related to what your sayin only because i no close to nothing about cars. Any help would b appreciated. I have pictures but i cant figure out how to post them yet.
Not really the place to post this. This is for common questions that get asked and answered repeatedly.
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Old 10/08/2009, 11:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wright06jhs View Post
Pearl01Stratcpe done this to get rid of his, but it was only a temporary fix and didnt last very long sometimes. The way i got rid of mine in my V6 was i switched to castrol syntec 5W-30 oil, and ive not heard it since the oil change.
Come to think of it... I haven't heard the noise since I switched to Syntec, either. Of course it doesn't get as cold here as it used to NY, though. I'm not one to say "This oil will work better", but it seems to have made an improvement. While it never gets bone chilling cold here, we did have a couple of frosts last year, and at no point did I hear the noise.
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Old 01/07/2010, 01:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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thank you this was very helpful. i had that diming headlight problem. fixed it without a problem
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Old 01/13/2010, 09:06 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by citm2000 View Post
Problem: One or both headlights is intermittently dim, even thought the bulbs and/or fuses are fine.

Cause: Stock harness has melted.

Solution: Replace the harnesses. HOW TO: Fixing Headlight Harnesses (dim headlight problem)

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will this also cause the turn signal to flash iradicly, like when the bulbs are burned out?
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Old 01/16/2010, 05:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by citm2000 View Post
Let's start with this common problem:

Problem: When the engine is under load ("goosing it", for example) you experience a loss of power accompanied by a whistling or hissing noise that stops when you let off the accelerator.

Cause:
The intake snorkel has come disconnected from the frame rail and is vacuuming itself to the bottom of the hood. It is part #17 in this diagram and you'll see it right by your radiator.


Solution:
Spend $2 on some plastic rivets at Autozone or Advance Auto or get an aftermarket intake.


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Hiss, hissing, whistle, whistling, bog, bogging, power, loss
This problem my also be accompanied with a "thunk" sound and the car may be late shifting into the next gear (sporty).
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Old 08/13/2010, 10:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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NO ONE HAS FIGURED OUT THIS PROBLEM YET!!!

almost EVERYONE that has a gt with over 110,000 miles, has the dreadful FKING p0300 random misfire code.

HAS ANYONE FIGURED OUT A FIX AS TO WHY EVERYONE HAS THIS PROBLEM? HOW ABOUT AN ANSWER WHY NO ONE IS LOOKING INTO IT?

i have a gt with 110k miles. replaced everything and its mother. and still no bye bye misfire. at least i got my car to start again.

its a very expensive fix. distributor = 400$, CPS = 200-300$. the crankshaft position sensor always blows, and so does the distributor. i have also got ngk IX iridium, and ngk wires. along with the distributor, i got a new cap/and rotor. almost everything in the engine is new yet there is still no fix for the p0300. yes i checked for vac leaks, yes i did timing and compression test.


i am not the only one with this problem. there are a few guys with the same dam problem and NOBODY HAS CARED TO HELP!

by the way, i drive a 2001.

Last edited by lostprotocol; 08/13/2010 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 08/16/2010, 07:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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almost EVERYONE that has a gt with over 110,000 miles, has the dreadful FKING p0300 random misfire code.

HAS ANYONE FIGURED OUT A FIX AS TO WHY EVERYONE HAS THIS PROBLEM? HOW ABOUT AN ANSWER WHY NO ONE IS LOOKING INTO IT?

i have a gt with 110k miles. replaced everything and its mother. and still no bye bye misfire. at least i got my car to start again.

its a very expensive fix. distributor = 400$, CPS = 200-300$. the crankshaft position sensor always blows, and so does the distributor. i have also got ngk IX iridium, and ngk wires. along with the distributor, i got a new cap/and rotor. almost everything in the engine is new yet there is still no fix for the p0300. yes i checked for vac leaks, yes i did timing and compression test.

Well homie... I got a resolution for ya. Did you heck the gapping on your spark plugs when you put those bad boys in there or did you just believe they were gapped correctly? I noticed you didn't mention that. Pull those suckers back out and regap them. Also, what do you mean the distributor and CPS "blow?"
i am not the only one with this problem. there are a few guys with the same dam problem and NOBODY HAS CARED TO HELP!

by the way, i drive a 2001.
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Old 08/23/2010, 09:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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this thread is the best! I had the intake and sunroof problem now i know how to fix them.
btw for fogged up lights i recommend the mothers headlight restoration kit it worked very well for me, my headlights used to be fogged up pretty bad and they are now beautiful and clear.
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Old 08/27/2010, 12:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a fix for water on the drivers side floorboard after it rains hard? I've blown out the drains to the sunroof and I know its not from my a/c because it only happens on days with heavy rain. I ripped up the carpet and pulled out the drain plug to try and give the water someplace to go but I would like to find out what the real cause is without going to the dealership. I've checked seals around the doors, sat in the car while it rains and I know it isn't coming from above. I drive a 2001 GT and really want to get this fixed cause it rains a lot in Florida. Any input would be great, and yes I did search first.
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Old 08/27/2010, 06:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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yeah mine gets wetter when it rains too, but its my a/c cuz it does it even when it doesnt rain =(
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Old 08/30/2010, 04:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
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just installed my hid headlights, now when i turn on my headlights one of my taillights is out on the driver side, when i press break it goes on. the other side works perfect. help?
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Old 09/02/2010, 01:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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well i tried the whole a/c water leak thing...floor hasnt gotten any more wet..so i'd like to think it worked.. if so..mission accomplished..and thank u for the info =)
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Old 09/06/2010, 06:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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ok so i did the thing..and it got dry..and was dry for 2 days..and i ran my ac like a champ...but today it started pouring and..needless to say..both sides are wet..drivers and passengers....does this have to do with that a/c leak fix? or is something else causing this? anyone, i'd appreciate some input =(
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Old 09/07/2010, 11:51 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Anyone? Is there another fix? Or should I take it somewhere and have somebody look into it?
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Old 09/07/2010, 11:55 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Anyone? Is there another fix? Or should I take it somewhere and have somebody look into it?
Search

This has been covered many times before
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Old 09/07/2010, 06:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ok manda, i will i suppose..i was just wondering bc i dont remember seeing it in this thread, so i didnt know if it was common or not lol..
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Old 09/07/2010, 07:33 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Problem: Glove box rattle or large gap.

There is a how to in the garage on exactly how to fix it. In short...
1) Remove the glove box by opening it and pulling the sides in so it flops down out of the way.
2) The latch clips onto a little loop mounted on the dash. Pull the loop out, its two screws. Take it to a vice and recrimp it down a little bit.
3) Reinstall it.

Basically the loop bends down a little and lets the glovebox bounce up and down. This eliminates both the rattle and taht annoying gap.
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Old 11/20/2010, 07:41 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Hi everyone

i got a VIBRATION when i accelerate first second and third gear! so i was wondering wat can it be

1- i thought it might come from the engine mount
2- from my lowering suspention
3-wheel bearing

i checked the wheel bearing and its all good! i any of you know please let me know!!! its really annoying!

thanks
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Old 11/30/2010, 01:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Question starter

when i start mine, it doesnt seem like it fires all the way up. the tachometer will fluctuate from 6000 to around 1000. i gave it a little bit of gas and it went away. i do not want to have to take my car to a repair shop if i dont have to.

solutions??
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Old 11/30/2010, 02:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bsol1320 View Post
when i start mine, it doesnt seem like it fires all the way up. the tachometer will fluctuate from 6000 to around 1000. i gave it a little bit of gas and it went away. i do not want to have to take my car to a repair shop if i dont have to.

solutions??
Your tach fluctuates all the way up to 6000??
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Old 11/30/2010, 02:18 PM   #36 (permalink)
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How about starting a new thread in the problem reports forum if your issue isn't covered by one of the common problems listed here? This isn't the place for that.
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Old 12/05/2010, 11:02 PM   #37 (permalink)
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i have had mine out but it seems like it runs better, but when i put it back on, my gasmilage sucks.
if i keep it off will it really cause an damage to the engine?
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Old 12/06/2010, 05:18 PM   #38 (permalink)
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How about starting a new thread in the problem reports forum if your issue isn't covered by one of the common problems listed here? This isn't the place for that.
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Old 02/08/2011, 08:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Old 02/08/2011, 08:22 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Hi everyone

i got a VIBRATION when i accelerate first second and third gear! so i was wondering wat can it be

1- i thought it might come from the engine mount
2- from my lowering suspention
3-wheel bearing

i checked the wheel bearing and its all good! i any of you know please let me know!!! its really annoying!

thanks
I have the same problem...
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Old 02/08/2011, 08:41 PM   #41 (permalink)
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what annoyed me was that damn streak the door left on the windows sometimes.
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Old 02/08/2011, 10:03 PM   #42 (permalink)
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what annoyed me was that damn streak the door left on the windows sometimes.
Obviously my Stratus has the same problem. Mines done it so long it's left scratches in the glass. Noticed it a lot when I had my windows tinted.
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Old 02/08/2011, 10:33 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Im glad this got bumped. This is a very informative thread that a lot of people should read before posting about simple mishaps with their eclipse/stratii
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Old 02/09/2011, 12:22 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Problem: cloudy headlights

Fix: Depending on how bad it is Scratch X has worked wonders for me, or wet sanding, or by projectors until they fog up and then start over again.
brake fluid works good
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Old 02/15/2011, 11:37 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a fix for water on the drivers side floorboard after it rains hard? I've blown out the drains to the sunroof and I know its not from my a/c because it only happens on days with heavy rain. I ripped up the carpet and pulled out the drain plug to try and give the water someplace to go but I would like to find out what the real cause is without going to the dealership. I've checked seals around the doors, sat in the car while it rains and I know it isn't coming from above. I drive a 2001 GT and really want to get this fixed cause it rains a lot in Florida. Any input would be great, and yes I did search first.


I had this problem. There is a thick bunch of wires that go through a grommet to the drivers wheelwell (need to take of the plastic skirt in the wheelwell to gain access. The drain under the cowl at the bottom of the windshield flows right over this grommet. Was able to use my finger and apply silicone/acrylic seleant around the grommet and the leak is now gone.

hope this helps
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Old 02/15/2011, 04:16 PM   #46 (permalink)
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i think thats my prob too! lol i will look further into it this weekend...is it hard to get the plastic in the wheelwell out? and once off..all the work will be done from the wheelwell outside of the car?
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Old 02/15/2011, 04:56 PM   #47 (permalink)
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also...it happens on the passenger side too...same reason?
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Old 06/18/2011, 09:03 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Another easy solution for the driver-side floorboard wetness issue: On my car, I have a cabin air filter and the inside of my airbox was clean. The pipe was clean. It still leaked. Upon closer examination, I noticed that the seal between the drain tube and the firewall was gone at the bottom. That's where the leaks were. After I recharged the AC, I was getting huge puddles every day. I took a small piece of that "mighty-puddy", kneaded it to activate, rolled it between my fingers to form a snake a couple inches long and about 1/4" thick, and applied it to the joint at the bottom of the drain pipe on the firewall. It's going to be a pain if I ever have to take out the airbox, but, let's face it. The car is 11 years old. If I ever have to do that, I'll just have to part with the car. Unlike silicone or another sealant, I didn't even have to wait for it to dry.
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Old 07/14/2011, 04:25 PM   #49 (permalink)
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almost EVERYONE that has a gt with over 110,000 miles, has the dreadful FKING p0300 random misfire code.

HAS ANYONE FIGURED OUT A FIX AS TO WHY EVERYONE HAS THIS PROBLEM? HOW ABOUT AN ANSWER WHY NO ONE IS LOOKING INTO IT?

i have a gt with 110k miles. replaced everything and its mother. and still no bye bye misfire. at least i got my car to start again.

its a very expensive fix. distributor = 400$, CPS = 200-300$. the crankshaft position sensor always blows, and so does the distributor. i have also got ngk IX iridium, and ngk wires. along with the distributor, i got a new cap/and rotor. almost everything in the engine is new yet there is still no fix for the p0300. yes i checked for vac leaks, yes i did timing and compression test.


i am not the only one with this problem. there are a few guys with the same dam problem and NOBODY HAS CARED TO HELP!

by the way, i drive a 2001.

Oh man finally!! Someone that has the same problem as me, did you find a fix for this problem?! My light wont go off and when I get the computer read it says misfire, I just paid $600 to get a "tune-up" to see if that would solve the problem and it didnt, do you or does anyone else know what the solution is? Thanks :-)
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Old 08/14/2011, 11:22 PM   #50 (permalink)
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hesitation and rough idle

Just picked up a 00 gt, had multiple cel codes that seemed to be associated with maf sensor. Took it off, cleaned it and cleaned the intake, cleared codes and only code coming back so far ( after 50 mikes and 10 starts) is the p0403. The car isles very rough and hesitates badly at slow acceleration. Too the point of being jerky. I know that code is associated with the egr, do I need to replace both valve and solenoid? Also, when I turn on the a/c the idle and hesitation becomes way worse, Instantly. any ideas? It's at the poi.t I have to "gun it" whenever I drive it or it sputters.
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Old 08/15/2011, 07:48 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Sounds like a few things here.

P403 - Replace the solenoid. It's fairly inexpensive and prone to fail. At the same time I would suggest removing and cleaning the valve. Before cleaning the valve compress the diaphragm and put your thumb over the orifice. If it holds a vacuum it's in good shape. Give it a good cleaning and reinstall. Something to consider; if you want to change your spark plugs, now is a good time as you will be half-way there to gain access to the EGR valve.

Rough Idle & Hesitation - Give the throttle body a good cleaning. Also, remove the IAC and clean that while you are at it. Inspect the MAF. If dirty clean that with MAF cleaner only. If you take my advice above and change the spark plugs, you're half-way to a cap and rotor replacement. Replace those too as they can be a source of a rough idle and hesitation,
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Old 08/15/2011, 07:35 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply, we've thought along the same lines here. I cleaned iac and maf the very first day and ordered the egr solenoid earlier today. I wad told by the guy I bought the car from, whom I do know personally, that the plugs and wires has just been changed, along with new valve cover gaskets. It just strikes me odd that running the air conditioner makes the idle 10 Times worse. Also, what's the easiest way to remove the egr valve and clean it? I'm by no means a mechanic, and am also a big guy, so little places don't allow big hands to get in so easily.
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Old 08/17/2011, 07:34 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Hesitation and rough idle could be completely different things. The rough idle could be a result of worn/torn engine mounts.

The EGR valve is simple to remove (just a few bolts) but hard to get at. When removing the upper plenum for spark plug changes there is more room to work, but it is still a "by feel" job. If you have access to a lift, you might be able to gain access from the bottom. At least that's what I kept telling myself as I crawled all over the engine.
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Old 08/17/2011, 10:37 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Switched out the egr solenoid, cleared the codes. Still the same issue and the p0403 code came back instantly. I even did the seafoam treatment through the brake booster. Didn't get much smoke, just some white smoke at the beginning.
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Old 08/18/2011, 08:00 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Switched out the egr solenoid, cleared the codes. Still the same issue and the p0403 code came back instantly. I even did the seafoam treatment through the brake booster. Didn't get much smoke, just some white smoke at the beginning.
Then it's on to the valve itself. Also, check the vacuum lines to ensure they are clear.
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Old 08/18/2011, 09:12 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Tested the egr valve with the pinch method.. engine almost stalled.. which I'm assuming means the egr valve itself is functioning properly. Starting to wonder if the hesitation is even related. Still no other codes though. What's the likelyhood that the 0403 code and rough idle are still related? Also noticed that the hesitation/misfire only seems to happen when rpms are below 2500 no matter what gear.

Last edited by panther_spawn; 08/18/2011 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 09/29/2011, 11:47 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Tested the egr valve with the pinch method.. engine almost stalled.. which I'm assuming means the egr valve itself is functioning properly. Starting to wonder if the hesitation is even related. Still no other codes though. What's the likelyhood that the 0403 code and rough idle are still related? Also noticed that the hesitation/misfire only seems to happen when rpms are below 2500 no matter what gear.
There's 2 solenoids behind the engine. Have you checked both of them? You might have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Edit:

There's 2 solenoids behind the engine. Have you checked both of them? You might have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Also, basics man. Check plugs, check your disty, wires. If it's a misfire you're having it's probably all basic stuff.
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Old 11/02/2011, 08:58 AM   #58 (permalink)
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just installed my hid headlights, now when i turn on my headlights one of my taillights is out on the driver side, when i press break it goes on. the other side works perfect. help?
Most likely the bulbs. After I had put in my afternarket tail lights the right was dimmer than the left one with the brakes and when the lights were in and you hit the brakes the left was dimmer. Just the bold it turned out.
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Old 12/10/2011, 09:48 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I have the exact problem, same car and same state. Still not sure where its coming from because it becomes so saturated i just can't understand. Check under your drivers side floor and there are a few rubber plugs and on mine, one was missing but I just can't see that being the issue. Let me know if one of yours is missing too then maybe thats the issue. Let me know if youve figured this out yet
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Old 12/10/2011, 09:50 AM   #60 (permalink)
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RE:"Does anyone have a fix for water on the drivers side floorboard after it rains hard? I've blown out the drains to the sunroof and I know its not from my a/c because it only happens on days with heavy rain. I ripped up the carpet and pulled out the drain plug to try and give the water someplace to go but I would like to find out what the real cause is without going to the dealership. I've checked seals around the doors, sat in the car while it rains and I know it isn't coming from above. I drive a 2001 GT and really want to get this fixed cause it rains a lot in Florida. Any input would be great, and yes I did search first."

I have the exact problem, same car and same state. Still not sure where its coming from because it becomes so saturated i just can't understand. Check under your drivers side floor and there are a few rubber plugs and on mine, one was missing but I just can't see that being the issue. Let me know if one of yours is missing too then maybe thats the issue. Let me know if youve figured this out yet
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