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Old 11/28/2008, 06:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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No Start, has fuel and compression No fire.

Year: 2001
Make: Dodge
Model: Stratus
Trim: R/T
Engine: 3.0L 24v v6
Transmission: Manual
Miles: 124xxx

Recent Modifications & Maintenece
- Short Ram Intake
- RIPP 1st gen LT Headers
- New Plugs/Wires
- Timing belt
- Coolant flush
- Lengthen o2 Sensor wires (Solider & Shrink wrapped)

Okay, lets get to the point. I've done all the tests.
- Compression: Good
- Fuel: Good
- Fire: No

- Spark plugs are all new
- Spark plug wires are all new.
- Distrubiter is Original.

This is what happened.
I was driving down the interstate, the road was open, no cars, I took it up to 135mph hit the speed limiter and the car shut off. Just like someone turned the key off. The Tachometer needle dropped to 0, all the other lights remained on (just as they would if you turned the key to the "ON" position. Speedometer slowly decreased as I slowed down. It cranked but would not start.

Okay, So I had it towed and this is what I checked.
- first thing, I pulled the cover off the timing belt to see if the belt broke. The belt was fine.
- I took the front spark plugs out, checked compession in the front three cylindars All were good.
- I checked for spark. NONE.

I am not getting any fire from my distrubiter (or at least thats what I know for sure) how does the car get fire TO the Distributer? From the Crank sensor? Cam Sensor? What is the best way to check these. I know this problem has to have happened before. But I cant find anything on it. Also, does anyone have a "Flow Chart" ? I cant find that here either, I know it is here though.

If anyone can help I would appreciate it.

Last edited by Super Stratus; 11/28/2008 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 11/28/2008, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The spark comes from the ignition coil pack, which recieved a signal from the computer to fire, based upon input information from the cam and crank sensors.

I would check the coil pack first, I think the FSM has the check operation in there.

Although, I'm not sure where the coil pack is, since I have the 4cyl, but the process is the same, minus the distributor in the 4cyl. Sensors, computer, coil pack, distributor, spark plugs.
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Old 11/28/2008, 07:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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see if any codes are stored.
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Old 11/28/2008, 07:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had a similar occurance on an 92 plymouth laser. It ended up being the distributor. So I would check that.

Follow this link and go to 16-37.

Online 3G Service Manual *Now with GT-S info*

Also, going 135 mph is stupid and you should be thankful for this malfunction.
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Old 11/28/2008, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fasteclipse00 View Post
I had a similar occurance on an 92 plymouth laser. It ended up being the distributor. So I would check that.

Follow this link and go to 16-37.

Online 3G Service Manual *Now with GT-S info*

Also, going 135 mph is stupid and you should be thankful for this malfunction.
Okay, new distributor cap and rotor. Still no fire. Why should I be thankful? The car would have shut off anyway and I would have returned to normal speed. Yeah it was stupid, but what performance enthusiast wouldnt top their car out every once in a great while?
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Old 11/28/2008, 08:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Super Stratus View Post
I am not getting any fire from my distrubiter (or at least thats what I know for sure) how does the car get fire TO the Distributer? From the Crank sensor? Cam Sensor? What is the best way to check these. I know this problem has to have happened before. But I cant find anything on it. Also, does anyone have a "Flow Chart" ? I cant find that here either, I know it is here though.

If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
16-35 has a description and page 90-30 has a wiring diagram.

If I CAN REMEMBER CORRECTLY, the engine ECU receives signals from the crank sensor and cam sensor (located in the distributor) to determine location of pistons. The ECU applies 5 volts to a NPN transistor in the distributor. This transistor gives ground to the primary coil. The primary coil gets 12v when ground is applied. When the ecu removes the 5 volt to the transistor the electro magnetic field in the primary collapses. This collapse causes the secondary coil to fire the high voltage current through the spark plug wires. The tach on the dash also has receives a pulse every time the primary coil collapses.
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Old 11/28/2008, 08:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Okay, new distributor cap and rotor. Still no fire. Why should I be thankful? The car would have shut off anyway and I would have returned to normal speed. Yeah it was stupid, but what performance enthusiast wouldnt top their car out every once in a great while?
There is more to the distributor than the cap and rotor, and you should thankful that it broke. Think of it as an act of God. You never know what could have happened if you continued at that speed ie deer, hole in road, road debris, flat tire, wind gust, and ect. No the car would not have shut off. To my knowledge there is no speed limiter on this car. Just that more power is needed to go faster. NO ONE SHOULD EVER GO THAT FAST ON A PUBLIC ROAD. Take your slow ass old car to a track.
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Old 11/28/2008, 08:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Actualy now t I think about it, I agree with you. Thank you for your advice I am off for the night, im going to get a scan tool tomarrow and try to see if there is a code available for me. Then I'll be on the right track. There is not any reason why I should start buying random parts.

Thanks alot man. I appreciate it. And also I really appreaciate the guide. That thing is like my new bible lol.

Oh yeah I just read thru your second post, my car is electronicly speed limited to 135mph. I could have 100 more horsepower and the car would still top out at 135mph.

Last edited by Super Stratus; 11/28/2008 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 11/29/2008, 12:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well, I got a scan tool to check the codes and it will not read the ECU. I connected it with the Yellow OBD II Conector that it said. Everything hooked up right. It even said "Connected to Car."

And when I press the read button. It brings up a message stating that the ECM cannot be read, and to plug the conector into the tool and the OBD II interface, and make sure the key is turned to the on possition.

Well im not dumb, and I know how to opperate a scan tool. I used the tool on a different car and the tool worked fine. I don't know of anything I could have done. The car has been running good for a while.

However I did redo the 02 Sensor wires by soildering and shrink wrapping them I never crossed any of the wires and I did all 32 of them 1 by 1. In any case I don't see what re soldiering them would have to do with anything.

Any ideas? Im just about out. Who here thinks its the ECU? And if it is. What am I going to do? I cant just swap in another ECU can I?
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Old 11/29/2008, 01:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Next step is to check your fuses. Make sure the ECU is getting power. If you can't connect to the ECU and all your fuses are good, you most likely have a toasted ECU.
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Old 11/29/2008, 01:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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are the fuel injectors getting pulse?
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Old 11/29/2008, 03:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Next step is to check your fuses. Make sure the ECU is getting power. If you can't connect to the ECU and all your fuses are good, you most likely have a toasted ECU.
Quote:
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are the fuel injectors getting pulse?
Make sure the crank position sensor wire wasn't cut by the power steering belt.
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Old 11/29/2008, 07:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Okay, I checked all the FUSES and double checked the ones that have the Ignition key on them, the under hood ones and the side of the dash. All fuses check out okay. There is this "Front ECU" in the under hood fuse box with a part number #MR515944 what is this thing and what exactaly does it do? Is this some kind of a ECU Relay?

Tomarrow Im going to check to see if the injectors are getting a pulse, if they are not, then its deffentaly the ECU. If they are im going to check the Crank Sensor wire, if thats not it and its all fine then I guess its either the ECU or that Front ECU thing.

Well, im narrowing it out bit by bit, shouldnt be too much longer until I learn the truth. Then once I find out whats wrong with it, I will have to determine the REASON why it happend, no sense in throwing another ECU in the car and risk having it fry that one.

But what is a REALLY REALLY weird thing... is... My horn stopped working about a month ago, car running fine. Then the day it stopped running, the horn started working immediatly. WTF?
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Old 11/29/2008, 07:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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no, if theres no injector pulse then you need to check the crank/cam sensor AND make sure its not a bad PCM.


how did you check the fuses? just looking isnt enough. you're going to need to make sure theres voltage on both sides of the fuses. in the end, you're going to need a computer safe dvom and a set of wiring diagrams.
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Old 11/29/2008, 09:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Alright, I'll recheck everything tomarrow. If worse comes to worse, and I can't get it going, or at least figure out what is wrong. I'm going to have it towed up to Auffenburg Dodge so they can deal with this. Then i'll go to the hospital so i can have a kidney removed and sell it, that way i'll be able to afford the labor and parts cost.
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Old 11/29/2008, 10:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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take it to a mitsubishi dealer...if one still exists near you
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*rolls into lift while talking to passenger* Oh I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of HOW AWESOME MY ENGINE IS.
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Old 11/30/2008, 12:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Whats a Mitsubishi dealer? I think I heard of one of those a long time ago in a fiction story book. Not too sure tho...
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Old 11/30/2008, 12:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Okay, well the problem has been fixed. It turned out to be a fuse. I barrowed a test light and located a fuse under the hood in the main box with a picture of an Engine on it. 20amp, green mini max. One side lit up, the other did not. I pulled it out, swapped it with my windshield wiper fuse and the car started up and ran just fine.

BUT now my horn doesnt work. well guess ill look into that one later. Thanks alot for the info and help guys. If i could, you all would have a beer on me
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Old 11/30/2008, 12:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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thats why visually checking a fuse isnt good enough. i bet it didnt look blown when you looked at it before? fuses can blow off to one side or the other and look just fine.
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*rolls into lift while talking to passenger* Oh I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of HOW AWESOME MY ENGINE IS.
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Old 11/30/2008, 01:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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thats why visually checking a fuse isnt good enough. i bet it didnt look blown when you looked at it before? fuses can blow off to one side or the other and look just fine.
Actualy it was blown right in the middle, plain visable. I dont know why i didnt see it.
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Old 11/30/2008, 09:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Okay, it blew again. And keeps blowing fuses. I mentioned the issue with my horn. And I also mentioned that I lengthend the 02 Sensors.

Well it started blowing fuses after I soldiered the 02 Sensor wires. im thinking possably that I may have melted the shrink wrap and two wires are touching every now and then.

Could the 02 sensor wires blow a fuse if they touched? I am going to use electrical tape to seperate all the wires then tape them back together and hang them out of the way. Also im going to take a look at my horn, and see if there is a bare wire.

There has to be a reason why its blowing fuses. At least I know what the problem is, now only if I could find the cause.
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Old 11/30/2008, 09:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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yes, that would blow a fuse. not the horn, thats not related to the no-start.

more that likely you have a short in one of the O2 sensor wire extensions popping that fuse.
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Old 11/30/2008, 10:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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yes, that would blow a fuse. not the horn, thats not related to the no-start.

more that likely you have a short in one of the O2 sensor wire extensions popping that fuse.
Bitter, you are so helpful. I hope you don't mind, but I forsee myself picking at your brain quite a bit in the future. E-rep for you!
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Old 11/30/2008, 10:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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i help those who help themselves.
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*rolls into lift while talking to passenger* Oh I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of HOW AWESOME MY ENGINE IS.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'
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Old 11/30/2008, 11:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Old 11/30/2008, 11:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I had a similar situation w/ a client's car. Problem was indeed an O2 sensor that kept causing that fuse to pop along w/ a no start condition.
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Old 12/01/2008, 04:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Hey Greg, thats exactaly what it was. However the ZIP Tie I had used broke and allowed the 02 wire to fall onto the exhaust. Thus melting the insulation, and shorting out the circut. However All is NOW well. Finialy, I re did all the wiring, and ran them alot better, car is running like a champ. I'm glad.

Now I can decide weather or not to go SDS Stage 1, custom turbo, or all motor.

SDS - Smooth power band, reliable (for the most part), and easy install. But Expensive!!!!
Turbo - Some lag, somewhat reliable, difficult install, better than SC and cheaper too.
Motor - A V6 that rips, uh..... i'll get back to you on that one.
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Old 12/02/2008, 11:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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badsin seems to be okaybadsin seems to be okaybadsin seems to be okaybadsin seems to be okaybadsin seems to be okaybadsin seems to be okay
How about the horn? Cuz that is some weird shit.
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