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Old 11/17/2009, 09:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Oil light while braking, stopped & at idle?

So my car has been roughly doing this on and off since I bought the dang thing - 4 months ago.

My oil light comes on while braking, stopped and at idle.

I unhooked my battery just the other day to clear some codes, hooked it back up and it started doing it constantly at idle or while braking. Before, it was only here and there, not every time. If I stay on the gas, it goes off, guessing because my RPMs climb. I took it to a mechanic, and he said that it was my throttle too low, set at 300. He moved it to about 700, now it's back down below 500. When it was at roughly 700, it would only do it randomly. And sometimes, my car doesn't idle below 700, but then again, sometimes it does. For the majority of the time, it gets to about ~300 and then the oil light comes on. Either someone jacks with my car at night without me knowing about it, which would be close to impossible, my car is haunted and just likes screwing with my head, or something is seriously wrong. I've been trying to figure this out for a while now and it's been driving me insane! Does anyone have any advice on this issue? Thanks a lot in advance.

And also, when I bought the car, there was close to 10 quarts of oil in it. I figure they did this to keep the oil pressure up and to keep the light off. I have since drained the oil and replaced it with the correct amount.

Last edited by MegaSickk; 11/17/2009 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 11/17/2009, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1) What codes were you throwing?

2) How did your mechanic raise your RPM's? If he just adjusted the throttle cable then that's only a temporary fix. The ECU will correct itself after a while by just adjusting the cable.
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Old 11/17/2009, 09:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1) What codes were you throwing?

2) How did your mechanic raise your RPM's? If he just adjusted the throttle cable then that's only a temporary fix. The ECU will correct itself after a while by just adjusting the cable.
The only code I was throwing was the code for my catalytic converter being bad. And he just adjusted my throttle cable, yeah.

Troubleshooting P0421
OEM Brand: MITSUBISHI

Definition
- Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold
- Cylinders 1-4
Probable cause
1. Faulty Catalytic Converter
2. Exhaust leak near rear H02S (Heated oxygen sensor)
3. Faulty rear H02S (Heated oxygen sensor)

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Old 11/17/2009, 09:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Holy fuck, 10 quarts?

I'm just going to guess that the mechanic just adjusted your throttle cable tensioner.
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Old 11/17/2009, 09:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well there's more to it then. If the cable was only a temporary fix something like... maybe IAC?
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Old 11/17/2009, 09:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Holy fuck, 10 quarts?

I'm just going to guess that the mechanic just adjusted your throttle cable tensioner.
I don't know which is worse, 10 quarts or 1 quart of sludge.

I drove my car 300 miles home on 1 quart of... you can't even call it oil. It came out like road tar and was less than a quart. Funny thing though, I got 40 mpg the whole way home and have only gotten up to 36 since my first oil change.
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Old 11/17/2009, 10:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Holy fuck, 10 quarts?

I'm just going to guess that the mechanic just adjusted your throttle cable tensioner.
Yes, a whopping 10 quarts. I wanted to die when I saw that.

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Well there's more to it then. If the cable was only a temporary fix something like... maybe IAC?
Is there any way to test the IAC without having to replace it just to see if that's the problem? Roughly 300 bucks is a bit of a lot if it isn't a sure-fire thing.
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Old 11/18/2009, 10:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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For myself I have a Modis (advanced code scanner essentially) that I can plug into my OBD II port and it will tell me the readings off things like the TPS or IAC and from there I can compare to what stock should be at. I'm not sure if anyone in your town would have one you could use though.

I wouldn't spend $300 on one. Check out the FS section or a local junkyard and pull one off a 3g there.
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Old 11/18/2009, 11:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Just throwing this out there but it could be an electrical problem. I had a car that was getting water in the electrical system. (the latch didn't shut all the way) The seat belt light, airbag light and the coolant light would randomly come on. Not sure with the low idle though. Good luck!
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Old 11/18/2009, 11:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_out View Post
For myself I have a Modis (advanced code scanner essentially) that I can plug into my OBD II port and it will tell me the readings off things like the TPS or IAC and from there I can compare to what stock should be at. I'm not sure if anyone in your town would have one you could use though.

I wouldn't spend $300 on one. Check out the FS section or a local junkyard and pull one off a 3g there.
Yeah, I'll definitely have to do that quite soon. Thanks for your help! I'll definitely report back when I get the new IAC and see if that fixes the problem.

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Originally Posted by MandaMarie00 View Post
Just throwing this out there but it could be an electrical problem. I had a car that was getting water in the electrical system. (the latch didn't shut all the way) The seat belt light, airbag light and the coolant light would randomly come on. Not sure with the low idle though. Good luck!
Thanks!
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