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Old 08/05/2010, 11:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My car won't start after Two days of sitting?

I don't know what's going on!

My car as the title says won't work after it sits for like two days. It's like the battery is drained so I get a jump and it works fine.
But the thing is the car works fine after the jump, and then the next day if I try to start it up it works.
It's like something drains the car after it sits there. I've went to Autozone and they said my battery was fine, and even my alternator was fine also.

Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 08/05/2010, 11:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You may have a short somewhere. Do you have any aftermarket electrical equipment in the car?
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Old 08/05/2010, 11:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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While Autozone says that your battery is good, how long have you had it? How long do you let the battery charge before you turn the car off for the night?

If your battery is dead or relatively dead, it will take some time for the alternator to fully charge the battery. While I don't know specifics, I wouldn't think that 15 minutes of driving would fully charge the battery. You can easily check if you have a drain by following the general methodology outlined HERE.

Check the easy stuff first and then proceed onto the more expensive, work intensive things.
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Old 08/05/2010, 12:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, I do have Subs speakers and 2 amps, and I've had them for like 3 years now. The battery, probably about the same.

Nothing has been installed that is electrical in some time. The last thing that was put in was a Diamante Throttle body and manifold.

Is there any way I can trace if there is a short?
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Old 08/05/2010, 12:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Immoralus View Post
Yes, I do have Subs speakers and 2 amps, and I've had them for like 3 years now. The battery, probably about the same.

Nothing has been installed that is electrical in some time. The last thing that was put in was a Diamante Throttle body and manifold.

Is there any way I can trace if there is a short?
You have probably have had some type of drain since you got your system and its just now starting to affect the battery. It might not test bad but it might be getting weaker. I would try to unhook your battery when you park it and wait the two days then try to start it when you hook it back up. If it starts you have some type of drain. If it dosen't you probably need a new battery.
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Old 08/06/2010, 07:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It is rather difficult to pinpoint the source of your problem without the following information. Help us help you.

- How old is your battery?
- What brand is your battery?
- How long has this battery been installed in the vehicle?
- Is there any corrosion around either of your terminals?
- Are both terminals securely affixed to the battery's posts?
- Did you perform a quick check of the alternator belt?
- Is the belt in good shape? Is it tight?

Know that you must have a known good battery to properly and accurately test your charging system. Answer the above questions and we can move on to this if need be.

I think it's safe to say that your sound system isn't the culprit. I am assuming the current battery has been installed for 3 years as you said. It can't be pulling a large enough draw to kill the battery. If it had, this would have happened much sooner. It is possible it is pulling a draw now, but I suspect your battery is hanging you out to dry. Once you correct your no-start concern, you will definitely need to perform a current draw test.

Also, do not ever jumpstart a discharged or partially charged battery and expect the alternator to fully charge said battery. There is a reason it lost it's charge to begin with. Nine times out of ten, on the next key cycle the car will not start. If you are stranded, by all means do what you have to do. But make sure you find and repair the source of the problem afterwards.
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Old 08/06/2010, 07:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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probably a weak battery and/or corroded/loose cables or terminals at the battery.
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Old 08/06/2010, 07:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Sounds like you got a parasitic draw. Disconnect the battery and let it sit for 2 days then recheck. Maybe you have a battery thats weak or something else. I've seen countless times amps short out or not turn off and just drain the battery. Best way to check is with amp gauge, could also be the PCM not going to sleep after about 10-15 min of the car sitting off.

Last edited by Gvieweclipse; 08/06/2010 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 08/06/2010, 10:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah I'd check your sound system. Easiest way is, if you turn the car off and you can still use the radio or the amps still stay on, then they're wired incorrectly.
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Old 08/06/2010, 10:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnite View Post
It is rather difficult to pinpoint the source of your problem without the following information. Help us help you.

- How old is your battery?
- What brand is your battery?
- How long has this battery been installed in the vehicle?
- Is there any corrosion around either of your terminals?
- Are both terminals securely affixed to the battery's posts?
- Did you perform a quick check of the alternator belt?
- Is the belt in good shape? Is it tight?


Battery I believe is 3 years old

It is an Optima Red Top

It's been installed ever since I got it.

Not much, but there is a minute amount, not any that I imagine could have an effect on the battery.

I will check that when I get a chance

Same goes for the Alternator and belt.


-I will try the said method, by disconnecting the battery for two days, I have to make sure I get it taken care of before I go back to school.
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Old 08/06/2010, 12:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Have you checked the water levels in the battery? Check under the caps and if its not about 1/8" full add some distilled water to the battery.
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Old 08/06/2010, 01:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Have you checked the water levels in the battery? Check under the caps and if its not about 1/8" full add some distilled water to the battery.
Optima batteries are sealed and you can not check them.

Yeah, I would try the two day disconnected too. That would tell you if something in your car is left on and you didn't know it.

Also, you could put a battery charger on it overnight on the lowest setting and see what happens.

I've my optima for about 5 years now with no issues.
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Old 08/06/2010, 01:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Oh, my apologies, didn't know they were sealed. Two day disconnect does sound like the best test atm then.
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Old 08/07/2010, 02:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I had a similar issue with my wife's Grand Prix. It ended up being the terminal came loose inside the battery and completely separated, we would hook it up to the battery charger and it would work (My guess is, when we would attach the cable to the battery we would push the terminal back in far enough to charge). It would work for about a day but after that it would be dead again. Oh and Autozone said the battery was fine also. Just a thought.
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Old 08/07/2010, 02:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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probably a weak battery and/or corroded/loose cables or terminals at the battery.
I would listen to this guy...
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Old 08/07/2010, 03:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The battery is too old you have a bad battery that will not hold charge long. Get another battery
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Old 08/08/2010, 02:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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You have probably have had some type of drain since you got your system and its just now starting to affect the battery. It might not test bad but it might be getting weaker. I would try to unhook your battery when you park it and wait the two days then try to start it when you hook it back up. If it starts you have some type of drain. If it dosen't you probably need a new battery.
I am concerned that the battery does not have enough of an adequate charge for this test to yield the correct result. Since his Optima has been discharged numerous times and the only source of re-charging it, as far as I know, has been driving the vehicle, I would think that you might get the wrong test result. If the battery doesn't have a sufficient charge before performing the test, who's to say that he has a parasitic draw issue and not a battery with a bad cell or weak electrolytes. Driving the vehicle after a jump-start will not charge a deep cycle battery by itself. The battery must be charged for a long period of time with a small amount of current. If the vehicle is left to sit for two days without being charged properly and it once again does not start, he is right back to square number one. It is possible that he has a parasitic drain issue, but he has not confirmed that the battery and charging system are functioning correctly. First things first.


Immoralus:

There is a sticker affixed to one of the sides of your Red-Top. Post the date.

Depending on where you live, I can definitely see your Optima's performance lessening after 3 years. It has happened to me. I know more should be expected of an Optima, but if you live in an extrememly hot or cold location the weather decreases the lifespan of the battery.

Before you disconnect your battery for 2 days you need to completely charge the battery and confirm that it is not the source of your headache. The charging system must be checked as well.

Do you have a battery charger and a DVOM?

If so, remove the battery from the vehicle.

First, you will need to check and record the battery's surface charge. Set your battery charger to a low amperage setting for a minimum of 10 hours. A full charge will take between 10 and 12 hours.

When complete, install battery into vehicle. You now need to remove the battery's surface charge to ensure successful charging. To do this turn on the headlights for 15 seconds with the vehicle not running. Voltage is measured between the '+' and "-" terminals. Voltage should be around 12.6 volts.

Now you need to check your alternator's output. Make sure the vehicle is running with all accessories and lights OFF. Connect your test leads between the '+' and '-' terminals of the battery. Your reading should be anywhere from 13.5 volts to 15 volts. Double check this reading by testing at the alternator itself. Connect the '+' test lead to the alternator's power wire. It is hidden behind a rubber grommet on top of the alternator. Connect the '-' test lead to battery ground or the alternator's casing. Compare your readings. They should be the same.

If all is well with your alternator, continue investigating by performing various load tests. Turn on both the headlights and the rear window defrost for 15-25 seconds. During this time watch the reading on your DVOM. Voltage should not drop below 10.2 volts.

At this point if you have still not pinpointed the cause of your problem, you can now check for parastic draw. The procedure is simple and requires a DVOM. Let me know when you are ready.


Based upon what you have told us, I believe you have a battery with a bad cell. A bad battery can have a 'Good' test result after bench testing. You should know that a bench test will not tell you if the battery is weak and needs to be replaced. Many a car owner receive an incorrect diagnosis from a retail store.

And good luck.

Last edited by Midnite; 08/08/2010 at 02:45 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 08/08/2010, 09:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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good procedure, but I've seen alternators fail when they get warmed up from extended load. I'd turn EVERYTHING on, the headlights, fogs, high beams, dome lights, blower motor on high, rear defrost, etc. and watch it over the course of 2-5 minutes, if its still steady after 5 minutes and not slowly dropping you're probably alright. a good alt will never dip below battery voltage (12.5-12.6), 10.2 is way low for a good working alt to be putting out.
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Old 08/08/2010, 10:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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A cranking load test would do the trick as well. But I don 't think his battery has got the sack for it.
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Old 08/08/2010, 10:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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A cranking load test would do the trick as well. But I don 't think his battery has got the sack for it.
I'd agree. you can buy a 100 or 200 amp home load tester for like $50 to $75.
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Old 08/08/2010, 10:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Immoralus:

What kind of sound system setup are you running? I know you have 2 amps. Surely you have a capacitor in place. Right?
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Old 08/08/2010, 10:11 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Not a bad deal considering the time and money you can save getting to the end result faster.
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Old 08/08/2010, 10:23 AM   #23 (permalink)
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probably a weak battery and/or corroded/loose cables or terminals at the battery.
Back when I had all my starting issues this past winter, we eventually found out the the negative cable had a bad ground. We rewired it and have never had a problem since. *knock on wood*
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Old 06/01/2012, 08:25 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Seeing as how my issue sounded pretty similar, I figured I'd post here.

My car seems to have intermittent starting problems when it has been sitting for a while (over night or while I'm at work). When I turn the key the instrument cluster lights come on, and I hear a click, but not all the time sometimes nothing at all besides the lights. However if I try again, usually takes a couple more tries, it fires right up.

So I took it over to AutoZone and had them test the battery/alternator on the car. Tested good.

I replaced the positive battery terminal because it looked iffy. Negative terminal is still in great shape. Date on battery sticker is Aug. 2010, however its peeling and battery was in the car when I bought it used, I don't really trust the place I got it from, but that's another story. Car is stock (no amps, subs).

I picked up a power monitor like this one:
BT-25:
Before starting I get between 12.1 to 12.5 volts. When started its at 14-13.9 volts.

Right, that's all I got for now, I value any input you guys might have, feel free to ask questions.

Last edited by radgoos; 06/02/2012 at 07:44 AM.
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