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Old 10/05/2010, 02:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bad clutch plates maybe?

I have been having this issue with my car now for about two weeks. It happens in all gears except first. When accelerating the rpms go up but I get no power, then the rpms will drop down and Iíll suddenly have power. I checked under the hood and found that a hose from the upper part of the intake that goes to the motor was split and not connected anymore. I replaced the hose but the problem is still there. I have also put seafoam in the gas tank thinking maybe I had clogged injectors or something as others in the forums seemed to have had issues with and this fixed their problems. But the problem is still there and Iím not sure what else to do at this point. I asked a few friends that know more about the mechanics of cars than I do and they seemed to think my clutch plates are going bad (As far as I know it is on the original clutch still). I wanted to either discredit or backup their claims by asking you fellow 3G owners first before I go getting a clutch changed out.

The car has always had regular oil changes and fluid checks. Had a tune-up a year ago and cam cover gaskets replaced around the same time. Replaced the radiator about 3 months ago. Car has a SES light on from an O2 sensor that went bad about a year and half ago and the car runs rich because of this. No other codes are popping up.

Itís a 2001 GT 5 speed, just rolled over 171k miles. Having the timing belt and water pump replaced this weekend because itís still running on the originals and Iíve been concerned about it.

Any ideas?
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Old 10/05/2010, 02:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Clutch. I have 130k on my stock, and I'm getting my new one put on this weekend. If you do it yourself, don't forget to have your flywheel machined.
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Old 10/05/2010, 06:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is there any differences between clutches? Autozone wants like $310 for a new clutch kit, yet I see a lot of clutch kits online for around $150-200.
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Old 10/05/2010, 06:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Is there any differences between clutches? Autozone wants like $310 for a new clutch kit, yet I see a lot of clutch kits online for around $150-200.
Let me tell you what you will probably be hearing alot in the future: "You get what you pay for."
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the trannies might not fail but the drivers do. check a local junkyard
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Old 10/06/2010, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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and to that tune i'll be careful with what I buy for replacement. I'm pretty picky when it comes to this car because it's treated me better than any other car i've owned. It was also the most expensive vehicle I have ever purchased.

I do have another question though. With as many miles as the car has on it now, is it alright to just get the flywheel machined? Or should I purchase a new one of those also? I figure if i'm already paying the mechanic a gazillion dollars to have this thing apart, then I should make sure anything recommended to be changed is changed at the same time.
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Old 10/06/2010, 09:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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the flywheel is fine, age doesnt really affect it, all they will do is shave a few thousandths of an inch off the top so it has a nice smooth, clean contact patch. i would also get a quality OEM replacement and not cheap out on that.

if you want something a bit more "high performance" i suggest stepping up to something like a stage 1 organic clutch or something a little more robust. the stock OEM replacement clutches can take a beating but a continuous beating can have some detrimental affects like what happened to mine...



woops.
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Old 10/06/2010, 10:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Don't get the autozone/advance/napa clutches. They are "factory replacements" that suck ass. Either get a real mitsu spec OEM replacement, or (better option) go with a slightly upgraded clutch from ACT/Clutchmaster/Centerforce/(if you dare)Spec. The stage 1/2's will last longer than the OEM and they will take a good beating on them. If you have the funds you might as well get the flywheel done. A fidanza will be a nice compliment to a stage1/2 clutch, but if funding isn't on the heavy side a resurface will do the trick.
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Old 10/06/2010, 11:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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the flywheel is fine, age doesnt really affect it, all they will do is shave a few thousandths of an inch off the top so it has a nice smooth, clean contact patch. i would also get a quality OEM replacement and not cheap out on that.

if you want something a bit more "high performance" i suggest stepping up to something like a stage 1 organic clutch or something a little more robust. the stock OEM replacement clutches can take a beating but a continuous beating can have some detrimental affects like what happened to mine...

[IMG]

woops.
Wow!! Overheat much? Did you just drag your clutch for a couple of miles or what?
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the trannies might not fail but the drivers do. check a local junkyard
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Old 10/06/2010, 11:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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and to that tune i'll be careful with what I buy for replacement. I'm pretty picky when it comes to this car because it's treated me better than any other car i've owned. It was also the most expensive vehicle I have ever purchased.

I do have another question though. With as many miles as the car has on it now, is it alright to just get the flywheel machined? Or should I purchase a new one of those also? I figure if i'm already paying the mechanic a gazillion dollars to have this thing apart, then I should make sure anything recommended to be changed is changed at the same time.
Excellent answer!! Actually, this could be a good time to go lightened flywheel... Ya know, since you already paid a guy a gazillion dollars and whatnot. Competition Clutch has a nice setup for our cars... Stage 2 w/ lightened flywheel for 700. There's a brand called "F1 Racing" on Ebay as well... They sell a clutch and lightened flywheel for like 400 bucks. I tried it and I'm content so far... Just make sure to tell the dude that he has to remove the clutch plates or they'll bang against the input shaft... Like mine.
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the trannies might not fail but the drivers do. check a local junkyard
You Got Electrical Questions? I've Got Answers!

6G72/74 Engine Swap
ECU Reflash/Tune (Courtesy of TX4Codeman)
AEM V2 CAI
RPW Long Tube Headers
KYB AGX Shocks
Tein S-Tech Lowering Springs
EBC Slotted Rotors
Stoptech SS Brake Lines
F1 Racing Stage 3 Clutch
F1 Racing Lightened Flywheel
Ingalls Stiffy Engine Damper
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Old 10/06/2010, 12:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Excellent answer!! Actually, this could be a good time to go lightened flywheel... Ya know, since you already paid a guy a gazillion dollars and whatnot. Competition Clutch has a nice setup for our cars... Stage 2 w/ lightened flywheel for 700. There's a brand called "F1 Racing" on Ebay as well... They sell a clutch and lightened flywheel for like 400 bucks. I tried it and I'm content so far... Just make sure to tell the dude that he has to remove the clutch plates or they'll bang against the input shaft... Like mine.
Hope you know that "F1 Racing" clutch is an OEM spec clutch.

Around the Hyundai forums they're known as the "spray painted OEM refurbished" clutches. Had plenty of issues with them selling remaned OEM clutches and just spray painting the PP and putting their logo on it.
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Old 10/06/2010, 12:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hope you know that "F1 Racing" clutch is an OEM spec clutch.

Around the Hyundai forums they're known as the "spray painted OEM refurbished" clutches. Had plenty of issues with them selling remaned OEM clutches and just spray painting the PP and putting their logo on it.
Ouch. Well... No, I didn't know that and now I feel like a tool. Thanks Black!

In any case, it works really nice and does it's job!
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the trannies might not fail but the drivers do. check a local junkyard
You Got Electrical Questions? I've Got Answers!

6G72/74 Engine Swap
ECU Reflash/Tune (Courtesy of TX4Codeman)
AEM V2 CAI
RPW Long Tube Headers
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Stoptech SS Brake Lines
F1 Racing Stage 3 Clutch
F1 Racing Lightened Flywheel
Ingalls Stiffy Engine Damper
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Old 10/06/2010, 02:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow!! Overheat much? Did you just drag your clutch for a couple of miles or what?
didnt drag it at all. apparently i mis-shifted 3rd to 4th at about 5500rpm and that happened.

weird thing was i didnt hear any loud noise at all, it just stuck into neutral and wouldnt go into gear. and when i let out on the clutch it made a terrible grinding rattling noise.

my mechanic used the words "clutch" and "grenade" in the same sentence, said they had to use a crowbar to get it off of the car.

clutch had 20k miles on it. ish. still very tight up until that point.

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Old 10/06/2010, 02:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ouch. Well... No, I didn't know that and now I feel like a tool. Thanks Black!

In any case, it works really nice and does it's job!
Glad to hear you actually got one of the good clutches. It was a hit or miss with everyone else.
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Old 10/06/2010, 03:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well i'll do some research and price comparisons on some of the brands you mentioned as being good. I don't drive the car hard except on ocassion, which is probably why the original clutch lasted me so long. I'll let you guys know what I end up deciding on. Sounds like I won't need to worry about buying a flywheel unless for any reason it can't be resurfaced. I also assume the ever annoying throwout bearing that's been rattling since 115k miles gets changed also with this new clutch?
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Old 10/06/2010, 05:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok so you mentioned ACT as being a good brand. I'm surfing their website and was wondering if the MB6-HDSS is a good clutch kit or not? And how bad are these Exedy kits i'm seeing all over ebay?
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Old 10/06/2010, 06:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Exedy is another OEM spec clutch. For DD'ing it should get you around, but again the quality of them is a hit or miss. I've never used an ACT personally, so I can't justify on whether or not that clutch is good. I know nothing about it (and don't have time to check out the specs right now), but I have lots of friends that are very happy with their ACT clutches. I've got a Clutchmaster fx200 and I LOVE it. It's kind of spendy but the fx100 is a similiar clutch at a slightly less price.

Make sure to get an OEM throwout bearing when you do the clutch. The aftermarkets tend to have problems.
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Old 10/06/2010, 08:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Exedy is an OEM clutch, Luk and Sachs (sp?) also makes quality OEM replacements, i think i have a new Luk clutch in mine and no complaints at all, im a little easier on it than my last one, i think anything from ACT would be a step above OEM but i could be wrong.

but yes the throwout bearing is replaced with a clutch replacement. or it should be at least.
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Old 10/07/2010, 09:04 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Found a good deal on a brand spanky new ACT MB6-HDSS. Went ahead and ordered it. Should get it and have it installed by next weekend. I'll let ya know how it works out. Having the timing belt and water pump replaced this weekend. Doing all the maintanence work now while I have the cash before I go blow it on something dumb.
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Old 10/07/2010, 09:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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good call. you can replace the timing belt and water pump yourself and save alot of money, there is a how to thread in the garage section, i used it to replace mine.
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Old 10/08/2010, 01:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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are Fidanza Clutch Kit - Stage 2.1 or Stage 3.2 good ones? for DD, i want something that i have at this point(feeling point), not very hardcore, but not very smooth and is good for raceing

because it seems that the clutch is sliping with 2 gear if i am so lucky and get some traction
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Old 10/08/2010, 01:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I've never heard anything good about Fidanza clutches, only bad. If you want something close to stock feel with a LOT of grip get the Clutchmaster FX100/200. AWESOME clutch.
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Old 10/08/2010, 03:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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for a daily driver i would get an OEM replacement or maybe like a stage 1. higher stages are designed for higher horsepower and can be quite jerky when they engage, aka clutch chatter. or you'll get one with a very high spring rate on the pressure plate and dread pressing the clutch every time you need to shift
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Old 10/20/2010, 08:48 AM   #23 (permalink)
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How long can a car be driven like this before clutch failure? Mines been doing this around 2-3 weeks now, thought at first it was just me not driving it well because it would rev up when I released the clutch after shifting. Then is started doing it when I wasn't even on the clutch. If I have the clutch done by a shop (I think a clutch is just a bit beyond my ability), will they replace the other components and refinish the flywheel?
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Old 10/20/2010, 01:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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It will just get worse until the car eventually doesn't move anymore. Don't let yourself get stranded. Clutches are pretty cheap. IMO get an oem one and stick with the stock flywheel unless you are making more power. Lightened flywheels don't do shit unless you're trying to build a track car where every little bit counts. Only thing they do for a street car is let you rev faster in neutral... wicked cool
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Old 10/20/2010, 02:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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stick with the stock flywheel unless you are making more power. Lightened flywheels don't do shit unless you're trying to build a track car where every little bit counts. Only thing they do for a street car is let you rev faster in neutral... wicked cool
seems to me that you do not know anything about energy...
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Old 10/24/2010, 06:50 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Ok so new clutch is installed and has been for about a week now. I went with the ACT MB6-HDSS and I must say I love it! Very responsive and made a worlds difference in acceleration. Not to mention I no longer have the annoying ratle of the old throwout bearing
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Old 12/17/2010, 05:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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re: centerforce


Ok so my disc is going out and its time to upgrade, what are you thoughts on Centerforce performance clutch kits?
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Old 12/25/2010, 07:35 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Location: Turlock, California
Vehicle: 2004 Eclipse Spyder GT
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Originally Posted by Black_out View Post
Glad to hear you actually got one of the good clutches. It was a hit or miss with everyone else.
I've had an F1R clutch, stage 2 in my acura rsx-s. And it lasted me a while, til car was stolen. I've had 2 clutch replacements on my 3g now, both F1R, first one was a stage 2, when installed the fucking mechanic told me my flywheel was fine, (THE FUCK IT WAS!!) The first clutch lasted me only 24k miles, the disc was eaten to shits, and my flywheel had cracks and heat radiation marks all over it. So, the second time I also bought a F1R clutch, a stage 3 this time, also purchased their 11lb chromoly flywheel. What an amazing fucking feel! Clutch grabs dead on, and the RPM's rev up fast as hell, since I also have a lightweight pulley. Also a lighter flywheel seems to have cured the infamous misfires caused the by the lightweight pulley.

And I bid on both the clutch and the flywheel.
Clutchkit - $180
Flywheel - $220
So, F1 Racing, is doing me justice so far.
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