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Old 04/29/2011, 06:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transmission Limp Mode

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Spyder
Automatic - Sportronic
95K
No Modifications

I bought this car recently and drive it home about 240 miles with no check engine light but the transmission would rev up when shifting gears and I also have no turn signal or hazards no click noise or anything but everything else works as it should. When I got it home I parked it for a few hours and went back out and when driving it for about 10 minutes the car shook and lost speed and the N light started blinking. Since that time the check engine light has been on and I brought it to a transmission shop that pulled a code for "shift solenoid D electrical" the shop said there were faulty parts in the transmission and told me it needed a rebuilt and motor mounts ($2900). He also replaced the input/output sensors on the transmission as well as the range selector.

When I got the car back from the transmission shop it shifted smooth in 1st and 2nd but would still rev up before shifting into 3rd and 4th gear and about a mile down the street after the rebuild the car went right back into limp mode and threw out the same solenoid code. The shop checked the a/t harness and it was fine we hooked it up in the computer and it showed that the voltage dropped to the solenoid from 12.3 volts to 0 volts and that's when it would lock up but when you turn it off and back on its back to 12.3 volts.

I made a trip to the dealership and he said the for some reason they can't explain the PCM is cutting power to A/T relay pin 4 at connector a-17x control side connector c-59 pints 77 89. Also the other night when I turned my headlights on most of the warning lights came on (traction control, anti-lock and srs) for a minute right before it slammed back into 3rd gear. The dealership is scratching their heads and wants to replace the ETAS ECU for the turn signals (which makes sense) $320.00, the fuse harness chassis $980.00, and the PCM $1040.00. I just spent $2900 on a rebuilt transmission and to get all of this done its another $2500. I'm just wondering if anyone else went through something similar and maybe has a cheaper solution. I've been searching through the threads on here for a month now and see many situations but nothing quite like this. I'm not extremely car savvy unfortunately so I hope this makes sense.
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Old 04/29/2011, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you do any research about the car before buying it?? Damn man youve been taken for a ride... 240 miles and it craps out on you.. Esp what youre saying the dealer told you... typical dealer- throw parts at it til it works, no matter how much it costs the customer..

This is when knowing how to do your own work really comes in handy. Youve got almost what the car is worth already in the trans, then to drop another $2500?

those are prices the dealer quoted you, right? First thing i would do is call your local autoparts stores and see what they price everything out at. Also check car-parts.com to see if any junkyards in your area have a wrecked low mile car that you could possibly get those parts from...
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Old 05/02/2011, 03:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yea i got that same problem with my tranny i replaced. when i accelerate it runs fine untill it hits that 3rd gear then it slips and the neutral light starts blinking. i turn the car off and back on then it resets. i changed the 2 speed sensors, changed the 5 sensors it has inside, reset the ecu, and still havent found a solution. i took it to a shop and they said its in fail safe mode. btw its an 01 gt.
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Old 05/13/2011, 02:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah it's strange it stopped doing it for week or so and all of a sudden today it wants to keep going into limp mode. I'm leaning toward the computer is causing all this trouble when I combine the situation with the check engine light beep even when the light is not on.
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Old 09/16/2012, 10:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Limp Mode

Mine does this also but only when it rains outside or I wash the engine bay. I have not changed out the turbine speed sensor or the output sensor because they are $90 to get and it just started happening. Can this be a wiring problem instead of a sensor problem ?
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Old 02/20/2014, 08:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Limp mode fix

Check to see if you have resistance between the red wire with white stripe that the A/T shift relay plugs into and the positive battery terminal. If no resistance the splice behind your heater box went bad. To fix it you either have to remove your heater box and resplice wires or a less legit fix is to piggy back off of another red and white wire in the relay box. The red wire with a white stripe is the supply wire for the entire relay block out of the PCM
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Old 06/17/2014, 06:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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same here

not too long ago my hazards fuse kept blowing like 3 times and it keeps going to limp mode
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Old 06/17/2014, 07:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you're mechanically capable of working on the car, I would use the dealership as a guide. Let them suggest where to look, and you do the work.
Don't spend the money on brand new parts, yet.
Go to a local pick and pull junkyard. Grab what they suggest you replaced and try it out first.
Keep track of your variables. Try one thing at a time and check it off the list.
When you find that you solved your problem, you can keep the used parts or replace with new
There is the possibly of getting used parts that are bad as well, and totally throw off everything but it's the risk I'm willing to take. Especially when I can get everything you mentioned for under $100 at the yard.

Last edited by Crazyguy03; 06/17/2014 at 07:44 PM.
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