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Old 10/28/2011, 06:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ticking noise in engine bay

Hey I was wondering if anyone knows or have any ideas on what this noise could be?



Video won't embed, not sure why?


Oil is full (although not changed in a while)
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Old 10/29/2011, 11:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 10/29/2011, 11:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Honestly, it sounds like lifter tick, which is very common in mitsubishi engine's.

I'd change the oil if it's been awhile. What kind of oil are you using?
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Old 10/29/2011, 11:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That's a little on the loud side for the usual lifter tick...
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Old 10/29/2011, 11:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's a little on the loud side for the usual lifter tick...
You would be surprised, this was mine before.

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Old 10/30/2011, 12:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a similar sound, my buddy thinks it's a lifter tick, I notice that it gets louder near my time to change the oil and gets quieter after I put in fresh oil. That usually works for me...I did some searching and found an article on it, that I have yet to try so I won't vouch for it yet, but I've been looking into it.

"On the 3.5 and (I believe) the 3.0 V6's as well, there is a device in the valve train called a valve lash adjuster (VLA). This device is like a little piston and cylinder filled with oil. It is different from a hydraulic lifter, and functions to keep the slack in the valve train to a minimum as the engine ages. The VLA has a little ball valve held in place by a spring, and uses oil pressure to take in oil and place constant pressure on its valve. Dirty oil from even several oil changes ago (or a previous owner) can leave particles in the ball valve that hinder its ability to remain pressurized. This leaves slack in the system and you hear it as clicking. It is also caused by getting air bubbles past the check valve that is now stuck at the top of the little cylinder, unable to leave via the ball valve at the bottom.

SYMPTOMS: A valve train clatter on startup that does not go away when the engine is warmed. If it goes away, this is not your problem.


Causes

Low oil - now or previously.

Dirty oil - now or previously.

High oil - now or previously (con rods slap the too high oil and "foam" it). Note that high oil can be caused by coolant contamination from a blown gasket, not just by overzealous owners. Parking on a steep hill - now or previously. With the engine off, this encourages the VLA to drain its oil (running steep hills are not a problem, unless it's so steep the oil is getting "foamed" by the con rods).

Parking for long periods - now or previously. Over time they'll drain.


The Fix

Now that I've made you all paranoid, here's the laughably simple fix. The VLA's were designed to respond to a pattern of gentle revving to flush the oil out of the little cylinders (those clever Mitsu engineers, eh?)

1. Warm up the engine.

2. With the engine in neutral, gently rev it from idle to 3000rpm over a period of exactly 15 seconds. Your goal is a constant gradual increase to 3000rpm. At the 15 second mark, drop the throttle (foot off the gas) to idle. Now let it idle for 15 seconds to complete one 30 second cycle

3. Repeat the 30 second cycle in #2 from 10 to 30 times. If the problem persists after 30 cycles, this is not your problem. It fixed mine after only 5 cycles - total silence."

The website is here.
Mitsubishi Tech - Minute Mod: The 5 Minute Lifter Noise Fix

If you try this and it works let me know.
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Old 10/30/2011, 12:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That doesn't sound like lifter tick to me but it's hard to say because the engine is running so far above idle.... what rpm is the engine running at? The number of crank revolutions per knock should be a clue to the origin.

Your car sounds like the inside of a old time MRI machine.
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Old 10/30/2011, 12:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Sounds like tick to me. This sounds crazy but do an oil change with Rotella full synthetic. Its a diesel oil and it cleans your shit OUT. Took care of the lifter tick on my friends 3g. A normal oil change didn't do it, but rotella did. Since its made for diesel its made for a much greater capacity to absorb grime and such and keep the engine clean because diesel is so much dirtier so on a gasoline engine it kicks ass. I'm waiting for my dad to cave and do the Odyssey with this stuff so I can see it work for myself.
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Old 10/30/2011, 12:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Will do the oil change and the VLA solution and let you guys know the result and if the noise goes away.
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Old 10/30/2011, 08:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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All right sounds good, keep us updated.

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Do an oil change with Rotella full synthetic. Its a diesel oil and it cleans your shit OUT. Took care of the lifter tick on my friends 3g. A normal oil change didn't do it, but rotella did. Since its made for diesel its made for a much greater capacity to absorb grime and such and keep the engine clean because diesel is so much dirtier so on a gasoline engine it kicks ass.
This is weird...seems like it would fuck up the engine, but okay. I'm assuming he'd still go with 5w-30 on the oil? Or do they not have that. I was looking it up on Shells website and didn't see a 5w-30. You should find out what your friend used on his 3g.
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Old 10/30/2011, 08:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Diesel engine oil will not harm your engine, I run it in my Celica which is MUCH more sensitive to oil than the 6G72.

Typically a good quality synthetic diesel oil will contain a higher level of anti-wear additives as well as much more detergent and suspension additives since diesel engines have alot more fuel wash down on cold starts and all that soot gets into the oil that has to be kept in suspension as well. Only thing you risk is damaging the cat converter if you burn oil, since some of the anit-wear compounds are not friendly to the catalyst material. If you don't burn oil any more than normal, don't worry about it. If you do, well you're going to ruin the cat anyways.
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Old 10/30/2011, 01:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Diesel engine oil will not harm your engine, I run it in my Celica which is MUCH more sensitive to oil than the 6G72.

Typically a good quality synthetic diesel oil will contain a higher level of anti-wear additives as well as much more detergent and suspension additives since diesel engines have alot more fuel wash down on cold starts and all that soot gets into the oil that has to be kept in suspension as well. Only thing you risk is damaging the cat converter if you burn oil, since some of the anit-wear compounds are not friendly to the catalyst material. If you don't burn oil any more than normal, don't worry about it. If you do, well you're going to ruin the cat anyways.
Yeah I don't have cat's on my car anyways so I don't think it will harm anything.
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Old 11/02/2011, 10:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Get a chance to try anything yet?
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Old 11/02/2011, 01:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Get a chance to try anything yet?
Not yet, trying to fix a oil leak before i change out the oil and everything. Did change out the spark plugs though with some NGK IX Iridium and it runs alittle better. But hopefully have the oil leak issue fixed today and then ill try out the other things tomorrow.
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Old 11/02/2011, 01:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I hope you gapped those plugs. NGK doesn't do that from the factory and you'll want tighter then stock since you're boosted.
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Old 11/02/2011, 01:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I hope you gapped those plugs. NGK doesn't do that from the factory and you'll want tighter then stock since you're boosted.
actually i didn't. About what should they be gapped too with the turbo?

Edit:
Does about .030" - .025" sound right?

Last edited by kyle920; 11/02/2011 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 11/02/2011, 02:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Depends on your boost but I'd go .030". Unless you're running over 12 psi I wouldn't go any lower.
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Old 11/03/2011, 12:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Depends on your boost but I'd go .030". Unless you're running over 12 psi I wouldn't go any lower.
Yeah I'm only running 8 psi, so I'll regap them and see if runs a little better.
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Old 09/03/2012, 10:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Lifter tick?


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Old 09/03/2012, 10:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Put half a can of seafoam in it and drive around for half an hour then flush the crank case.
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Old 09/03/2012, 10:42 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Put half a can of seafoam in it and drive around for half an hour then flush the crank case.
Then 1/2 qt auto trans fluid, run for 500-1500 miles, change, see how long it stays gone for. It may stay gone for a long time, it may come right back. If it comes right back, your lifter's internal seals are in the pooper and the lifters need to be changed/rebuilt to get rid of the tapping.

I've always wondered, could you convert to solid lifters? Solid hunk o metal there (well hollow) with a little bucket with a shim inside it at the end.
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Old 09/03/2012, 11:12 AM   #22 (permalink)
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how did you fix this? my car been doing this for months now havent gotten around to see what it is.

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You would be surprised, this was mine before.

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Old 09/03/2012, 11:31 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I think it's been outlined in the thread above if you read.
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Old 09/03/2012, 11:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I've always wondered, could you convert to solid lifters? Solid hunk o metal there (well hollow) with a little bucket with a shim inside it at the end.
I don't think so because you wouldn't have the proper valve clearance and it would be difficult/time consuming to adjust
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Old 09/03/2012, 11:48 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I don't think so because you wouldn't have the proper valve clearance and it would be difficult/time consuming to adjust
Not really, look at a SOHC Honda setup.



Setscrew and locking nut, adjusting lash is as easy as slipping in a feeler and setting it. I don't see why something similar couldn't be machined for the SOHC 6G7x rocker arms. Get a bit of steel, thread it, bore the rocker arm, press it into the rocker arm where the lifter sat, bore the hole at the top of the rocker a little larger, spin the hardened steel set screw down the threads, put a lock nut on and voila! Heck, you could probably use the body of a lifter for that.
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Old 09/04/2012, 07:45 PM   #26 (permalink)
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That wouldn't exactly be "easy" Seems like more work and risk than it's worth!
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Old 09/04/2012, 07:48 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Sounds like an awesome project to me, a true one of a kind. Any lightening of the valve train is good.
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Old 09/04/2012, 07:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Then 1/2 qt auto trans fluid, run for 500-1500 miles, change, see how long it stays gone for. It may stay gone for a long time, it may come right back. If it comes right back, your lifter's internal seals are in the pooper and the lifters need to be changed/rebuilt to get rid of the tapping.

I've always wondered, could you convert to solid lifters? Solid hunk o metal there (well hollow) with a little bucket with a shim inside it at the end.
Thanks Bitter, Its gone for now. The problem was the front of the car was on jack stands for 3 days so the oil completey drained out of the top end of the engine. I threw some fresh oil in it and ran it for 5 minutes. Tick went away
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Old 09/06/2012, 10:30 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Not really, look at a SOHC Honda setup.



Setscrew and locking nut, adjusting lash is as easy as slipping in a feeler and setting it. I don't see why something similar couldn't be machined for the SOHC 6G7x rocker arms. Get a bit of steel, thread it, bore the rocker arm, press it into the rocker arm where the lifter sat, bore the hole at the top of the rocker a little larger, spin the hardened steel set screw down the threads, put a lock nut on and voila! Heck, you could probably use the body of a lifter for that.
...of course, you're offering for comparison what is, IMHO, one of the best designed, easiest to service top ends ever!
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Old 04/09/2013, 05:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I know this post is old but i'm curious if anyone has tried this fix at all?
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Old 07/11/2013, 09:18 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Last edited by fclass308; 07/11/2013 at 09:21 PM. Reason: post moved while replying????
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Old 07/16/2013, 09:45 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Foolin : who are you?
Thumbs up I had this a couple weeks ago

i didnt read the thread so i dont know how this turned out for you, but all i did was throw some engine flush in it right before my last oil change. after, i threw a can of protectant in. no more clicking....
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Old 08/05/2013, 02:59 PM   #33 (permalink)
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My 2000 Eclipse GT always has the lifter noise near the end of 3000 miles oil change interval. Will a Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage or 0W-30 be better for this?
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Old 08/05/2013, 03:03 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnam View Post
My 2000 Eclipse GT always has the lifter noise near the end of 3000 miles oil change interval. Will a Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage or 0W-30 be better for this?
Run some marvel mystery oil and some Lucas in te gas. I'd go with 5w


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