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Old 02/17/2012, 11:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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RS No sway bar? Well it needs one!

Ok I bought a 3g that had been wrecked in the rear. Sub frame was bent pretty bad. But thats it no other damage (i could be missing something but i dont think so).
I go to the junk yard pull a sub frame off the back of gt
Everything bolts up perfect but the GT had a sway bar the RS doesnt have a way to attach it to the spindles.
I dont really think it matters and they seem to be exactly the same?

Test drive- Take off fine, 40 mph starts a rubbing/vibrating/shutter coming from the rear....(rear right i believe)
Also when i go over bumps at anything about 30 the rear feels like as soon as it hits it seems it feels like the right side kicks out (to the right)....its not barely noticeable it feels like my whole rear end just slips right out then comes back normal.

I get home and try and figure out whats wrong?
The right wheel seems like the bottom needs to be pulled in towards the subframe, the top of the wheel needs to go out in order to be straight.
There is no way of adjusting this so what do i do?
Heres a picture you can see the bar that connect the spindle to the subframe maybe its too long? I feel like it needs to be shorter to pull the wheel in some.
Any Advice?
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Old 02/18/2012, 02:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Help RS rear suspension

2000
Eclipse Rs
2.4l
N/A

Bought this car wrecked, rear sub frame was bent so i removed it replaced with one from a gt. It appears to be the same but the RS has no place for the sway bar to bolt up.
Anyhow i drive it and its fine then i get up to 40mph and its like a shuttering/rubbing kinda feeling its not terrible but really annoying. Its like a very bad out of balance tire. Rotated every tire to back position and same problem same speed so its not the tires.
Also when i hit a bump doing 30 or more as soon as the rear end hits the bump it feel like it just kicks out....its pretty drastic, but goes right back to normal.
So i get home check it out and it appears that the passenger rear tire is not aligned properly. the top is too far in bottom too far out. Almost like it needs a sway bar or something pulling the bottom half over?
Any ideas?
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Old 02/18/2012, 02:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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This is what it looks like as you can see no spot for the sway bar on the spindle.
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Old 02/18/2012, 09:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sway bars don't actually do anything for the alignment of the suspension, all they do is link onto a component to keep the ratio of compression between the sides closer to 1:1.

Your problem is that you reused your old arms. In your picture, the toe arm is shot (ball joint boot is ripped and grease everywhere). If the rear subframe was bent chances are one or some of the arms were too. Did you have the car aligned? You can't just bolt it together and think its going to be good to go, it needs aligning if you've had the arms off. A real alignment will tell you for sure if any one arm or even if the knuckles are in good shape too, so you can replace what's bent.

On the 3g the sway bar connects to the rear lower control arms. Your RS rlca's obviously don't have the attachment points
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Old 02/18/2012, 09:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You didn't drive it with those bolts missing did you??
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Old 02/18/2012, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Go to a junkyard and pull good upper control arms (u shaped), trailing arms the one that connects to the wheel well, and lower control arm (look for ones with a spot to bolt your endlinks to and swaybar issue solved). Do it for both sides. Check the new/used arms bushings if they're shot (most likely are) time for urethane replacements. I recommend energy suspension rear control arm kit. Go onto RockAuto.com and go to the rear suspension of our car and get right and left later links (technically the rear toe control arm, I used dorman but recommend spending a little more for one with grease fittings). Look up the rear suspension on parts.com and grab the essentric bolt and washer for the rear toe arm so you can replace is because odds are the old one is fused in there and you'll need to cut it out.

There is a great how to that goes over all this in the garage or wheels/brakes/tires/suspension forum. How to: urethane suspension install for the I4

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Old 02/18/2012, 09:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You didn't drive it with those bolts missing did you??
Those are just the brackets for the rear sway bar, it won't hurt anything unless he gets crud in there and the tries to put a sway bar in.
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Old 02/18/2012, 02:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah i see what your saying it looks like those hp;es are for the upper contol arm,

So is the bracket the sway bar bolts to come off one of the control arms or would i have to buy the whole spindle assembly?

Would something like this work...like i said it just seems like that lower trailing arms are too long.
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Old 02/18/2012, 02:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you get the car aligned or not? The car isn't lowered?

The trailing arms are not too long... they're identical between trim levels. The lower control arms come with the tab welded on for the sway bar so yes you need new arms along with the toe arms. Those megan trailing arms aren't going to do you any good, they adjust caster and have no real purpose even on lowered car.
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Old 02/18/2012, 02:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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no it hasnt been aligned but there is no rear adjustment for it right?
It just doesn't make too much since if all of this stuff is the same and identical but the RS doesn't have a sway bar....changing the sub frame out shouldnt have changed anything in the rear.
Is it possible the sub frame is a little longer?
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Old 02/18/2012, 03:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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There is alignments for the rear. I swapped my rear crossmember and arms with one from a '99 Galant that had a sway bar. Everything bolted up. The top arm in the pic is the Control arm. Off to the upper left of the pic is a cam bolt. That will adjust the toe if I remember right. If you lowered your car, then you would need to get a camber kit to adjust the camber. The lower bar in the pic is the bar the sway bar attaches to, but you need to one from a GT or GTS the has the link for the sway end link.

Get it aligned if you haven't already and have them check the wheel balance. If a shop tells you there isn't an alignment for the back, then they are full of shit. But might as well get a full alignment done.
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Old 02/18/2012, 05:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Look at the knuckle. The tie arm connection point is a big oval for a reason, that sets your toe. If something is even slightly bent you'll need camber correction.

If your toe is far enough out and your bushings are shot, and they are, you can get the waving in the rear suspension at speed.
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Old 02/19/2012, 04:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm going to the junkyard Monday to get the sway bar and everything else I left behind. Anything else I should pull of the gt that would make the rs better?

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Old 02/19/2012, 09:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm going to the junkyard Monday to get the sway bar and everything else I left behind. Anything else I should pull of the gt that would make the rs better?

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Like I said get all 3 control arms for each side since yours are most likely. Ent fom the rear end damage. Replace the bushings if they're shot since its stupid to put new arms on with bad bushings. Buy a completely new rear toe control arm with the toe alignment bolt and essentric washer.

There is no reason to buy aftermarket arms for this platform as the OEM ones are fine. If the camber is off there are a few rear camber correction kits to choose from for this platform.
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Old 02/19/2012, 04:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You think I could get the ball joints out without busting them or should I just buy those arms new?
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Old 02/19/2012, 05:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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From I have read, buy new arms. It will cost about the same as buying the joints and having them installed
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Old 02/19/2012, 06:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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From I have read, buy new arms. It will cost about the same as buying the joints and having them installed


cost of new worthwile ball joints = $15-25
cost of dorman rear toe arms = $26
frustration and anger of trying to replace ball joints in a rusted out, beat up arm = not worth it
ability to cut out old arms and slap brand new shiny ones = priceless

spoken (well typed) from experince
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Old 02/20/2012, 10:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Couldn't find a gt would a Stratus work?
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Old 02/21/2012, 11:50 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The answer is yes
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Old 02/21/2012, 12:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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frustration and anger of trying to replace ball joints in a rusted out, beat up arm = not worth it
ability to cut out old arms and slap brand new shiny ones = priceless

spoken (well typed) from experince

Tell that to the shop I had do my toe arms.
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Old 02/22/2012, 04:42 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Everything fits perfect just like it should. I'm just waiting for the sway bat end links to arrive...which by the way if you think you can find them at a parts store for cheap guess again. Cheapest I've found was $45 and I need 2.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Should've gone on rock auto. 45$ or less for both shipped to your door.
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Old 02/22/2012, 10:41 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Should've gone on rock auto. 45$ or less for both shipped to your door.
shit OEM parts from mitsubishipartswarehouse are around 50 for both shipped. You can get moogs for 30 a piece

Did you go to ripmeoffthenrapemeintheasscarparts.com?
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Old 02/22/2012, 03:55 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I didn't want to wait those were the prices at autozone and advanced oreillys had them for 20 each. Either way it didn't help. The rear end doesn't rock around as much as it did but I still have the annoying vibration.
I can't pinpoint whether it the left or right. I get up to 40 and its a consistent vibration like an out if balance tire. I've rotated all four if my tires all the way around and it doesn't get better or worse so its not the tires or wheels. Braking has no effect and drums are smooth. Changed right wheel bearing but didn't help. Maybe left wheel bearing? The drum is pretty stuck on there but it doesn't seem to have any play when you try to move the tire like a wheel bearing would. Am I missing something?
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Old 02/22/2012, 05:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Calipers are notorious for shiting the bed and siezing up at high mileage so check them. Also slight warpage of the rotors so google how to bed in brake pads and follow that procedure. Check the other 3 wheel bearings as well. Get an alignment and check the balance of all 4 wheels
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Old 02/22/2012, 07:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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The parking brake is fully disengaged?
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Old 02/22/2012, 07:19 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Its drum brakes on the rear.
Umm I believe so like I said the drum on the driver side is so stuck on there I can't even get it off. I've tried a rubber mallet and all that but I won't budge. Car feels like everything spins pretty freely. Does the e brake have only lock the left side or is it both?
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Old 02/22/2012, 07:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Both sides but if you've got a seized cable it can keep the shoes down. If the drums are worn you'll have to use the adjuster to pull the shoes in far enough to get the lip over them. Adjusting them is a bitch.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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How does that work? The adjuster?
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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How does that work? The adjuster?
On the drum, yes. For the seized line you need to replace it if that's the case. If it is a seized line you'll want new brake shoes and a hardware kit.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:19 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Good time for a rear disc swap.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:22 PM   #32 (permalink)
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So is there just like a bolt on the drum?
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:28 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dirtydsm33 View Post
So is there just like a bolt on the drum?
What do you mean? The drum only sits over the brake shoes and is held in place by the wheel itself
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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dirtydsm33 can pretty much be considered an idiot by all
I know silvertune was talking about some sort of adjuster if its stuck. I've tried everything short of just buying some sort of puller to get the drum off.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:37 PM   #36 (permalink)
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But there should be some M8 threaded holes you can use to help push the drums off...or break them if you don't know what you're doing.
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:40 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Bigger hammer.
That and a little bit of man will get them off
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Old 02/22/2012, 09:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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But there should be some M8 threaded holes you can use to help push the drums off...or break them if you don't know what you're doing.
Or if its just that stubborn. I take the top hats off rotors all the time when they're on there good. Though breaking a drum would be a lot harder...


Turn the wheel so the little peaky hole is at the bottom of the rotation and you'll see a little gear in there. You have to turn it one way or the other to make the adjuster screw itself together to bring the shoes together.
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Old 03/24/2012, 02:54 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Question Subframe removal

When you removed the subframe, were there any other steps besides removing the bolts and using jacks? I ask because im in the same situation you were and im about to swap rear (suspension)parts with another 3g wrecked from the front. Ive searched but nothing came as specific to what im asking as your thread.
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Old 03/24/2012, 03:05 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Remove the arms attached to the member, remove the bolts holding the member to the car/frame, lower it down.

The factory manual can be found in the 3G general info forum, or just search for the tearstone manual. It's a sticky and tells you exactly what to do.
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Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums > Performance & Tech Forums > Problem Reports

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