|
![]() |
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 18
![]() |
Vertical Through Bolts in Manual Trans?
I am in the process of replacing the clutch in my daughters 2000 GT. The thread detailing the R&R in this forum has been of tremendous help, but unfortunately the car (trans) has not really been cooperating with me as much as I had hoped. I am at a point where I am trying to work the trans away from the engine and it doesn't seem to want to separate too far. I did release the TOB as described and the fork did move to the passenger side as indicated so I believe I'm okay there. I believe my problem is with one of the lower bell bolts. There was a great deal of galvanic corrosion between the bolt and aluminum case that created a lot of build-up in the threads, so one of the bolts actually twisted off. I can probably drill it out once the trans is out but the remaining portion of the bolt seems to be holding the trans to the engine pretty good. So that's what I'm facing now. I have sprayed it with PB and will go at it again tomorrow.
One question I did have is what are the long vertical through bolts used for that extend up into the engine block where it mates up to the trans? I pulled them out thinking they might be some type of locating pin for the trans but that does not appear to be the case. Can anyone help? Thanks. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 (permalink) | |
|
am cat
Join Date: May 2004
Location: South of Chicago
Vehicle: 2007 Camaro
Posts: 49,865
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you'd asked before you broke the bolt, I would have suggested heating it and then trying to move it. We're past that now, so you need to get the trans pushed back some and starting to move. Some 4x4 blocks and sledge hammers should get it moving backwards a little, enough to get wedges in and it moving out and apart.
__________________
Quote:
1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile' |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,507
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yeah leave those long vertical bolts in place. They stay on the engine when the trans comes off. I removed mine, put them back in just fine, no issues.
There are two bolts that are removed from the engine side that are a little hidden. One on either side, higher elevation than the 4 you removed at the very bottom. Also, 4 bolts top side from transmission going into the engine up top. 10 bolts total. The transmission will separate about an inch if the TOB is still engaged and you have all the bolts removed. EDIT: Sorry skimmed your post. GL drilling |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) | |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 18
![]() |
Quote:
I believe I have all 10 bolts removed. I got the 4 smaller ones on the bottom, the 4 larger ones on the top, as well as the 2 large ones on the engine side about mid way down on either side. Thanks. I can get it separated about .060" and that's about it. It seems to be pivoting about the busted bolt head on the bottom so I believe that's my problem. Good to know that it's not the TOB somehow holding it up. My plan is to drop the trans with the driver side half shaft in place, as I could not for the life of me get it pryed out. Looks like it may be a tight fit against the aluminum frame casting but hopefully I will be able to work around it. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,507
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I had to use a cat claw nail puller to get that axle out and it was a pain. No clue what those two long, skinny, vertical bolts are for.
As long as the TOB lever is still toward the passenger side it's disengaged. First time I took the transmission off the TOB was still engaged because my buddy was playing with it after after disengagement and he re-engaged it. It was kinda funny. But you can use a flashlight to visually check it from underneath. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |