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Old 05/06/2013, 05:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transmission Slipping?

I have a 2001 Eclipse GT with a sportronix transmission. When it tries to shift into 3rd it revs up and takes a while to shift into gear. The car has over 100,000 miles and I'm not sure if the previous owner changed the fluid. This has been going on for a week or so. It started after I changed to prothane mounts and fixed my broken motor/trans brackets.

I've read that a transmission flush could solve this or it could be a shifter silloniod. Now I'm using just sportronix to try and save it from slipping so much. But, I'm wondering if anyone else has an idea of what's going on/ how to fix it.
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Old 05/08/2013, 08:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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my wifes does the same thing but its when it shifts from 3rd to 4th. I'm not sure what the maintenance was before we bought the car though. I was thinking i would just have it rebuilt but if its something easy i would love to know.
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Old 05/08/2013, 10:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like your clutch is slipping buddy
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Old 05/08/2013, 11:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sounds like your clutch is slipping buddy
Sportronic is an automatic. Automatics don't have clutches.
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Old 05/09/2013, 06:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You didn't change the fluid when you purchased the car? Check the fluid condition. When it comes to AT's, when it gets to a certain point it's actually worse to change the fluid.
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Old 05/09/2013, 06:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You didn't change the fluid when you purchased the car? Check the fluid condition. When it comes to AT's, when it gets to a certain point it's actually worse to change the fluid.
Yes and no. You don't want to flush it when it's too far gone because the seals won't want to hold up to the pressures involved with a flush, and maybe an old-school drain and fill with a torque converter drill and plug may not be the best either, I don't know. But a pan drop and filter change would probably be a good idea. Being as though the pans on these cars are on the side of the tranny and not the bottom, I wouldn't be the one to talk to for amplifying info. But typically the maximum amount of fluid changed in a pan drop is 40% which wouldn't hurt and might actually help.
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Old 05/09/2013, 07:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Sportronic is an automatic. Automatics don't have clutches.
Autos don't have a normal clutch but they have clutch packs. But to the OP, I had the same prob when I first got mine and decided a change was in order. I just did a drain and fill by dropping the pan and taking the drain bolt out of the case on the under-belly of the bell-housing (its a 1in bolt so have a nice big wrench or impact ready). Also the filter is located inside the transmission case on the top side (not inside the transmission oil pan, that's the valve body), so changing the filter is out of the question (unless u take the tranny apart but if your doing that you might as well rebuild it) My fluid was brown back then, it "fixed" the slipping for a while but ultimately the tranny got replaced with a new one as the diff/spider gears had chipped and the clutch packs for 2nd and 3rd gears were toast. So proceed with caution.
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Old 05/09/2013, 01:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I checked the fluid and it's still pretty red and doesn't smell burnt. I had a friend who was a mechanic for the military for a while take it for a drive and said it felt like a shifter solenoid was messed up.
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Old 05/09/2013, 01:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Not too familiar with ATs, but could those be symptoms of the TCM failing?
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Old 05/09/2013, 04:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Also forgot to mention the obvious of checking the fluid level...to little or to much can make problems like that. To check it park on flat ground, put it in neutral and pull the dipstick.
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Old 05/09/2013, 08:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I checked it but it might have been too full. Can that cause this?

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Old 05/09/2013, 09:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Doesn't it have to be pretty warm too? Before you check it.


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Old 05/09/2013, 09:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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There's a fix for the 3-4 shift flare on the forums, you need to pull the valve body and enlarge a passage.
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Old 05/09/2013, 09:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I thought that was the 2-3
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Old 05/09/2013, 09:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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yea, my bad. 2-3 shift flare correction. The thread is around if you look.
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Old 05/10/2013, 12:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I looked at the shift flare thread and it looks like its a soleniod.

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Old 05/11/2013, 01:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I think there's confusion from your wording here.

Does it slip as in it feels like it is in neutral or the shift doesn't happen when you want it to? Huge differences right there.

Since you were doing the mounts, you removed the battery to get access to the trans mount right? Well you just reset the computer's learned shifting info. Drive it for a bit, I remember the tranny would shift funny after disconnecting the battery and took a few days to even out to how I liked it.
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Old 05/11/2013, 08:07 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yea when u check the fluid, check it when its hot (after 15min of driving) and having to much fluid can cause slippage (but its good practice to check when its cold and hot). Daniel is right if u have disconnected the battery very recently the etas/ecu has to relearn everything including the shifting pts based on ur driving. So I would say if you found ur fluid is high, drain a little bit out, then just go for a nice cruise by giving it the beans in a number of situations.
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Old 05/11/2013, 10:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Resetting the Invecs unit shouldn't cause flare if the trans is healthy. Mitsubishi wouldn't program it in there to flare. Running lower line pressures for an effectively slower shift will reveal weak clutch packs which can be a result of resetting the Invecs unit, since it reverts to the factory shift protocol.

Flare is ridiculously common in the auto's. The OD/neutral clutchpack goes and causes the 2-3 and sometimes 3-4 shift flare. Mits has a service bulletin out and they offer redesigned pieces to fix the problem. They only charge an hour to install too.
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Old 05/11/2013, 01:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I remember it would flare like a bitch on 2-3 after a battery disconnect but then would greatly improve after a few days of driving.
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Old 05/11/2013, 02:51 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I drained some fluid out today since it was too full. The fluid looked kind of brown so ill change it out probably next weekend. For now I'm going to drive around and see if it helps

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Old 05/21/2013, 07:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Update: been driving around to see if the transmission would reset itself and it hasn't. It has been over a week and is still acting up. Thinking about having a guy look at it and see what's up.

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