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Old 12/24/2006, 02:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Overheating: At my wits end.

Absolute B.S.

I have an 86k 2001 Eclipse GT. I have a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty. And I have a POS lemon for a car. The car only overheats at idle/under 15MPH, but does so at complete random. It sometimes happens for a few days and sometimes the car runs fine for a week. As you can imagine it's absolute hell trying to convince the dealership something is wrong when the car is so random in how it behaves. When it overheats it goes all the way up to the 3/4ths line; at any cruise above 30 MPH it runs perfectly fine.

Since July (the last 4k miles) the following items have been replaced/work has been done:

Thermostat (twice, both Mitsubishi $30 non-crap ones)
Upper Radiator Pipe
Lower Radiator Pipe
New clamps
Dealership flushing of the system including a coolant change
Engine Temp Sensor
Radiator Cap (twice, tried a .9 and then went with a new 1.1)
All associated gaskets

Want the insult to injury? The car doesn't leak coolant, because if it did I'd happily pay for the new water pump. The car doesn't burn coolant, because if it did I'd happily pay for the new head gasket/head (well, the warrantly should on those). It has the same amount of coolant in it's shit system today as it did 3 weeks ago.

So yesterday, on the way to the dealership, it got to the 3/4ths temperature mark. I drop it off to the tech and they look at it; then, this being the 3rd time it has been in for overheating, they confirm that it's actually overheating. Their answer?

Him: "Well sir, it's obvious there is some kind of blockage going on in the car. It either needs a new flush ($70) or the thermostat replaced ($148!!!!! Holy shit)"

Me: "If you look through the records of the car you'll see I've had all that work done there and, on the recommendation of one of the techs, replaced the T-stat myself after 1 month of the problem not being fixed."

Him: ".......well, come on down and we'll talk it over."

I get there and they give me the same answer. They look over the records and say the only thing they can think that is blocking the flow in the car is the radiator. But if that was the case the car would overheat all the time, right?

Right. So I take it, on the dealership's recommendation, to a radiator/cooling shop. They look my car over and....suprise, suprise. It runs at idle for 20 minutes without overheating. They drive it and it's perfectly fine. They are absolutely mistified to see a bill of sale from Mitsubishi that's not even an hour old mentioning the car's overheating problems. They give me the answer that I had already considered: If it overheats only at idle then flow testing a radiator is a waste of my time and money. Also they can't continue working on it since the car has nothing going on with it. Another $27 gone (though they were real nice in not referring me to the mental institute as a man who goes around getting people to work on a perfectly fine vehicle).

I drive the car 30 miles back home, pull into my driveway....AND IT STARTS OVERHEATING. I'm absolutely ready to junk this fucking car. Ive owned two Mitsu's now and have no intention of ever owning one (sans DSM as a "2nd car") again. My 330HP Eagle Talon could barely hold an idle, but at least it had 135k miles and speed as an excuse.

The *only* thing I could possibly imagine is that I have a head that is warped ever so slightly as to keep air pockets in the system. I've heard of that happening to cars before but you notice that kind of workmanship straight from the factory/after a rebuild. Not when you're 86k miles into owning the car yourself.

Oh, and my CD player stopped working but it's a non issue since I drive the car so little. And I had the wiring harness melt on itself while driving over bridge at 11PM which instantly killed my headlights. All this at the grueling 85k mile mark.

I know it's not the ideal forum for saying this but after going on dates and looking like a tool because I have to turn the car off at idle, after missing classes for the first time at college because of a unreliability in a car under 100k miles with regular maintenance, and after calling friends at 2:30 AM to stay at their house because my car can't handle city driving conditions for another 3 miles, I believe I've earned the right to say it:

Fuck Mitsubishi.

Last edited by oreopride; 12/24/2006 at 02:12 AM.
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You could just crank up the heat and put down the windows to keep it from overheating for now until u find the problem.
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Lol.

Done and done. Crank up the heat, put the windows down, turn the A/C on as you roll to a stop so you can kick both fans on as early as possible.

Who rolls with the heater turned up with the A/C on? I do!
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't turn on the A/C. Just the heat. The A/C will keep overheating it. And crank the heat all the way to hot.
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Holy NOGAF rant, bro!
(I thought I was long-winded)

Care to give us the abridged version? I'd like to help, but.....I'm not reading all that!!
.... or were you just here to vent?
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You misunderstand.

As I slow down under 10MPH I throw the A/C on as to kick both fans on at idle, wait for it to start overheating, put the car into "neutral," shut the car off, come to the complete stop, put the car's key into the "On" position, then move the shifter back into "park."

That way I have a non-running car with fans on. After all these months people are absolutely amazed at how I move when slowing to a stop while changing CD's.

And yea, it's a rant/vent. The title looks like a help topic but if I don't know what's going on, the dealership mechanics don't know what's going on, and a cooling/radiation shop doesn't know what's going on, then I doubt people who haven't seen the car are going to know what's going on (that's not a jab at the forum members, since most here are quite knowledgable)

Want the abridged version? I hate my car. Buy Toyota!
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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His car is overheating and he has done everything possible to try to fix it and it didnt help.
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oreopride View Post
You misunderstand.

As I slow down under 10MPH I throw the A/C on as to kick both fans on at idle, wait for it to start overheating, put the car into "neutral," shut the car off, come to the complete stop, put the car's key into the "On" position, then move the shifter back into "park."

That way I have a non-running car with fans on. After all these months people are absolutely amazed at how I move when slowing to a stop while changing CD's.
Lol. So your saying that while driving you have the heat blasting and it still overheats?
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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No, just at idle. It's just convienent to keep it on because (1) it's winter and (2) less dials to turn/things for me to do during that 10MPH to 0MPH slow down.

The good news is, at this rate, I should blow out the starter. Me ftw.
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Have you checked/tested both fans? So it will overheat at idle with the A/C going? (aka both fans going?) Have you verified both fans are working and kick on if overheating?

This sounds like a pretty tough one. There are usually a couple quick answers, but it looks like you've been through them already.

Maybe it's something with the gauge? Like the gauge is reading incorrectly? Has it ever overheated and blew the rad cap? Or just always made the gauge rise? (Not even sure how the gauge works....just throwing something out there...)
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Old 12/24/2006, 02:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Gauge reads correct since it's not being funny on the highway. Both fans kick on. 2 days ago the dealership confirmed everything worked except the radiator and the T-stat, which have either been replaced or the other which isn't the problem. The Thermostat isn't intalled in backwards and it's a 190 degree one. The coolant/water is a 50/50 mix. The car isn't leaking. The car isn't loosing coolant. My oil stick says the oil is black and not milky oreo-colered goodness. The radiator pipes aren't cracked. The car doe not have white smoke coming from the tailpipe. I haven't put Playdo in front of the radiator to block off air flow. The air filter has been changed and is not clogged. I have never modded this car so no fascia/front dams have been removed as to lose airflow (again, hurting the car at drive and not at idle). The coolant sensor by the T-Stat housing has been replaced. The car is not using shit-Mitsu-quality clamps. The water pump was replaced at 60k miles. The car has been flushed, by the dealer, within the last few months. The coolant has been burped by yours truly more than he cares to remember. The radiator cap holds pressure. The car is the only bane of my otherwise happy existence.

I should have titled this better since it was more or less a rant on why my car makes me hate life. Not to sound like a cocky bastard but I had a 1G DSM, for 3 years, as my daily driver. If something goes wrong with a car I can generally find it and fix it in 24 hours or less, hence making this much more aggravating than it should be. Though do keep the suggestions coming because there is no such thing as a useless chess piece.

And though I have this notion of warped valves/heads causing air bubbles there is no way in hell they are going to get looked at under warranty. I guess I should just pray for the eventual explosion within the next 14k miles.

Last edited by oreopride; 12/24/2006 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 12/24/2006, 09:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What about the ecu coolant temp sensor?

Last edited by icemanrld19; 12/24/2006 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 12/24/2006, 09:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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do a leak down test, compression test. when my dads 3.8 taurus was blowing a head gasket it would randomly overheat every so often and then other times be fine. it started happening at low speeds in traffic but eventually progressed to happening all the time.

run the leak down and compression test on all 6 cylinders, flush the cooling system, and make sure that you burp it well. put the front of the car up so that the radiator cap is higher than the dash then run the car at idle with the radiator cap off. any air should move out, especially when you raise and hold the rpms at about 2500.

btw, if any of our suggestions DO fix the problem that the dealer couldnt, be sure and post which dealer this is so that people here can avoid them for service.
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Old 12/24/2006, 10:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
do a leak down test, compression test. when my dads 3.8 taurus was blowing a head gasket it would randomly overheat every so often and then other times be fine. it started happening at low speeds in traffic but eventually progressed to happening all the time.

run the leak down and compression test on all 6 cylinders, flush the cooling system, and make sure that you burp it well. put the front of the car up so that the radiator cap is higher than the dash then run the car at idle with the radiator cap off. any air should move out, especially when you raise and hold the rpms at about 2500.
The inherent problem with compression testing the car is that it runs perfectly fine (as in there isn't a loss of power and it's not stumbling), it's not eating coolant, and if it was a head gasket it would have lost some coolant by now. I mean, just a pint over the course of 2 months would have convinced me but it's a no-go. Same reason why the idea of a bad head, while almost the only option left, just doesn't seem likely. But since it's been 5 months I'll probably have no choice but to go that route soon.

And is that how the car is supposed to be burped? I run the car to hot with the radiator cap on, CAREFULLY twist it off (letting some go back to the overflow), grap the upper radiator pipe, fill the radiator back up to the top, then put the cap back on. That way there are no air bubbles in the system. I grab the upper radiator pipe when the car is hot and it's solid as a rock.


Oh, and pulling the thermostat allows the car to run almost fine in stop-and-go traffic (as in it stays slightly below the haflway point but it doesn't overheat). However this isn't an ideal solution because it's just masking the real problem and the car warn't stay warm on the highway. Also, I found something even stranger from the radiator shop: right between the 1/2 mark and the 3/4ths mark on the temp gauge represents 210 degrees, which doesn't seem right.

And I don't blame the dealer, though I'm interested in how a car under warranty can be released after not being fixed. There is something legitametly weird about this car, but I'm not paying $148 for them to do the same fucking 15 minute job the 2nd time. The only reason I let them do it in the first place was so they could say they had done it and ruled it out. You can imagine how pissed I was finding out that was the price, after spending the 20 minutes to change it myself originally.

I think it's just because Mitsubishi's are legitametly bad cars. I'm a self-car hater. There's a reason these guys almost went out of business in Japan and it really shows. Rusted Lancers on the dealers lots, 95-99 engines that were notorious for crank walking, and my unfixable POS. What the hell is going to happen in 40k miles with this thing? As soon as it's fixed, I'm selling it for a loss and buying a god damned Camry or Civic.


[/quote]What about the ecu coolant temp sensor?[/quote]

I'm going to claim ignorance on this. Are you referring to the ECU itself and the way it regulates temperature, or is this another sensor that sits under the hood? The car really overheats so it's not faulty gauges and what not. The dealership got it up to 215 with both fans kicked on.

Last edited by oreopride; 12/24/2006 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 12/24/2006, 10:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If your located anywhere near dallas, tx ill be willing to check it out
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Old 12/24/2006, 11:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Are you positive the fans are coming on?? If you're that upset with the car then just drive it to a dealership
say nothing about the car's problem and trade it in
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Old 12/24/2006, 11:22 AM   #17 (permalink)
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its the radiator, almost assuredly.
also, the ONLY way to properly bleed the system is with a radiator funnel, and 30-40 minutes of running.
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Old 12/24/2006, 11:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Upgrade to a newer style radiator. There thicker for one but i also think you have some blockage in your radiator
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Old 12/24/2006, 11:49 AM   #19 (permalink)
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To answer the above questions I'm just going to repost this:

Quote:
Gauge reads correct since it's not being funny on the highway. Both fans kick on. 2 days ago the dealership confirmed everything worked except the radiator and the T-stat, which have either been replaced or the other which isn't the problem. The Thermostat isn't intalled in backwards and it's a 190 degree one. The coolant/water is a 50/50 mix. The car isn't leaking. The car isn't loosing coolant. My oil stick says the oil is black and not milky oreo-colered goodness. The radiator pipes aren't cracked. The car doe not have white smoke coming from the tailpipe. I haven't put Playdo in front of the radiator to block off air flow. The air filter has been changed and is not clogged. I have never modded this car so no fascia/front dams have been removed as to lose airflow (again, hurting the car at drive and not at idle). The coolant sensor by the T-Stat housing has been replaced. The car is not using shit-Mitsu-quality clamps. The water pump was replaced at 60k miles. The car has been flushed, by the dealer, within the last few months. The coolant has been burped by yours truly more than he cares to remember. The radiator cap holds pressure. The car is the only bane of my otherwise happy existence.
And the T-stat, as of this morning, still opens in boiling water.

Quote:
If you're that upset with the car then just drive it to a dealership
say nothing about the car's problem and trade it in
If I traded it into a dealer I'd lose $3500 on the car. I'd be better off just buying a brand new engine from mitsubishi and paying the dealership $1k to put it in. Private sale with a $1500 loss is much more ideal.

Thanks for the offer about looking at the car but unfortunately I'm in Florida. Im not into the local scene but, I assure you, looking at the car just induces headaches.

Quote:
its the radiator, almost assuredly.
Quote:
Upgrade to a newer style radiator.
I realize that's the last thing in the cooling system I have to replace. But spending $250 on a part that doesn't fit the crime just seems out of place. It's true im biting the bullet and looking online for them; I'm pulling it Tuesday and taken it to get flow tested Wednesday. But I'll restate the symptoms:

The car overheats at idle. The car runs perfectly fine when driven above 15-20MPH. The Temperature gauge pin sits just above the middle marker when driving between 1-15MPH. The car won't warm up above the 1/4 part of the temperature gauge, unlesss left to idle for 10 minutes, when the thermostat is taken out of the car.

Those are polar opposite symptoms of the classical blocked radiator. Blocked radiator = car overheating while driving, cars fans kicking on to cool to normal temps at idle, the car overheating when the RPMs increase, etc. Even the professionals (the radiator/cooling shop), after admitting they'd make the most off of me recommending a radiator swap/flow test, said it was at the bottom of possible problems with the car.
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Old 12/24/2006, 12:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The radiator isnt doing its job at idle and a stand still. Less flowing air so the radiator needs to work harder. While driving theres alot of air moving. The radiator has to work less. Post this in the clug3gfl.com forum. See if theres a local guy selling a radiator. I just sold my 03 radiator for $70
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Old 12/24/2006, 12:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
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fi that doesn't do it, you can cut the little blue wire going to the radiator fans, that will keep them running constant while the car is on.
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Old 12/24/2006, 12:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manybrews View Post
its the radiator, almost assuredly.
also, the ONLY way to properly bleed the system is with a radiator funnel, and 30-40 minutes of running.
I was going to say the same thing. Its most likely the radiator that's going out or there maybe some blockage in it.

Bleed the air out... wow, that's a long time,
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Old 12/24/2006, 03:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I too had overheating problems a while back and the problem was that the fuse for the cooling fan motor went out so the cooling fan was not working at all. The car would only overheat when it was at idle and when I picked up speed it went back to normal temp. Check it out the fuse is under the hood.
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Old 12/24/2006, 05:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I believe you just have air still trapped in the cooling system. I had to park my car on an incline (facing uphill) to raise the radiator high enough to get all the air out. Leave the radiator cap off, and run the car untill you see the coolant flowing in the radiator and the top hose gets hot. Then race the engine to get the coolant really moving. Make sure the heater is turned on while your doing this. This worked well for me, and best of all, its free.
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Old 12/24/2006, 07:01 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My oil stick says the oil is black and not milky oreo-colered goodness.
Lol. Your oil isn't supposed to be black. It's supposed to be a dark yellow. When is the last time you changed it?
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Old 12/24/2006, 07:13 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Lol. Your oil isn't supposed to be black. It's supposed to be a dark yellow. When is the last time you changed it?
2k along with filter. You know what I mean when it comes to color.

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Awesome suggestion. Even though yesterday I attempted to burp the car on level ground I didn't really get any air bubbles. So I went to a friends house down the street a few minutes ago (he has an incline) after reading that. I parked it and mananged to get enough air out to put almost 1/2 a pint of water in. The car runs fine but who knows how long it will last. I burped the system 1 1/2 months ago and put less than a pint in. It ran fine for about a week. If it runs fine then starts overheating again in, say, 2 weeks to a month then it only confirms my "engine has a worn/burnt intake valve/head that's causing air pockets to repeatedly develop." Otherwise nice tip.

The reason Im so vehement about that being the cause is due to my overflow bottle being over the "Full" line.



And no....no matter how bad we all want it to be, it's not the fans. It's not the fan fuses, the fan relay, the fans themselves, etc. They kick on everytime the car starts to rise above the middle mark, everytime I turn the A/C on, etc.

Lol, I appreciate all the help but I had this up in "General" because it was just a general hate rant about my car and poor luck with Mitsubishis. I've searched the forums before; sans the radiator and a hot spot in the engine there is nothing let to fix/check that realtes to an overheating car that I haven't already done. Scouts honor.
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Old 12/25/2006, 12:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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If you suspect combustion gasses are entering the cooling system, there is a test that most shops can conduct on your coolant. It tests the coolant for oil and gas. Its not that hard, and shouldn't cost that much.
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Old 12/25/2006, 01:32 PM   #28 (permalink)
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What about the ecu coolant temp sensor?
I'm going to claim ignorance on this. Are you referring to the ECU itself and the way it regulates temperature, or is this another sensor that sits under the hood? The car really overheats so it's not faulty gauges and what not. The dealership got it up to 215 with both fans kicked on.
There is a sensor on most cars near the thermostat housing called a coolant temp sensor. It monitors the coolant temp at the thermostat and activates the radiator fans when it gets above a specific temp. I have no idea if it is separate from the engine temp sensor (run gauges) on the 3g, or if it it is the same unit.

Are your radiator fans turning on at all by themselves? That would be the first thing I would check. If not, suspect the coolant temp sensor, loose connection, or a fuse/relay. From your story, it sounds like you're having to force the radiator fans to come on.
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Old 12/25/2006, 02:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
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This car has 2 different engine coolant temp sensors. The first is for the ECU and actually has a 2 wire black plug. The second coolant sensor is for the dash and has a one wire black connector for the spade terminal on the sensor.

What you need to do is find out is if your car is really overheating or not. If the dash sensor is going out as it's just a resistor, you might think you are overheating when you actually aren't.

You will need to be able to data log your car using either a scan tool w/ real time data logging capabilities or a laptop w/ some software like evoscan. When you notice your car overheating according to the gauge, hookup the scanner and see what your ECU is reporting as a temperature. If it's hot too, well then yes you have some kind of physical problem. Rule this out and then you can tackle what will most likely be a bigger problem. I also suspect your water pump. I've seen them do stupid stuff like this. Granted our pumps are metal but I've seen them fail in less due to manufacturing defects.

The other quick fix to try would be to have both fans run all the time. It's easy to do and reverse so it wouldn't hurt to see if it helps.
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Old 12/25/2006, 05:55 PM   #30 (permalink)
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This car has 2 different engine coolant temp sensors. The first is for the ECU and actually has a 2 wire black plug. The second coolant sensor is for the dash and has a one wire black connector for the spade terminal on the sensor.

What you need to do is find out is if your car is really overheating or not. If the dash sensor is going out as it's just a resistor, you might think you are overheating when you actually aren't.

You will need to be able to data log your car using either a scan tool w/ real time data logging capabilities or a laptop w/ some software like evoscan. When you notice your car overheating according to the gauge, hookup the scanner and see what your ECU is reporting as a temperature. If it's hot too, well then yes you have some kind of physical problem. Rule this out and then you can tackle what will most likely be a bigger problem. I also suspect your water pump. I've seen them do stupid stuff like this. Granted our pumps are metal but I've seen them fail in less due to manufacturing defects.

The other quick fix to try would be to have both fans run all the time. It's easy to do and reverse so it wouldn't hurt to see if it helps.
Good info there. I also noticed this problem last year with my dohc head. The sensor for the dash is actually not very good at 180 it reads just below 50% at 200-210 it reads 50% but at 214 it reads 60%. You can make the fans run all the time by clipping the blue wire in the middle of the large harness on the main cooling fan it's the small wire can't miss it.
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Old 12/25/2006, 05:58 PM   #31 (permalink)
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theyre not linear, automakers want you to really notice the car getting hot, so the cool side moves slower than the hot side.
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Old 12/25/2006, 07:50 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Alright, last shot at this:

I realized I didn't put it in the list but I replaced the fan relay around 2 months ago even though the fans were kicking on then. *And I took the car to the dealership not but 5 days ago now. They confirmed, with a real temp sensor, that the car was actually overheating. The car, at idle with the fans on, went to 220.*

Even once waiting in a gas station a month ago the car actually began to smoke and got near the "H" line. This car is really getting hot. It's not faulty gauges or sensors.

The fans work and kick on when the car gets above 200 degrees F. Again, the Radiator/Cooling shop I took it to just 5 days ago let the car idle for 20 minutes straight. The car didn't overheat but when it tried to go above 20whatever the fans would kick on and the car would cool down. It's not the fans unless the wiring somehow only quits working when the car comes to an idle (which is ironic since the only time I can see that the fans come on is when the hood is parked and the car idles).

When the car overheats it's doing it while the fans run. Wiring the fans to run all the time will only hinder the airflow in the car when it goes above 55mph and will do zilch for the car at idle since they both are running anyway. Also I'm not a fan of bandaiding problems; if that was the case I'd just run the car without a thermostat and be done with it.

You want symptoms? A car that overheats at idle every other day, that doesn't leak, that doesn't smoke, that doesn't have any lost coolant, that has had almost every part under the "cooling" section in the manual replaced. Please read the main post before giving a suggestion. While I do appreciate the tips and help about 1/2 of it is people asking me to replace things that have already been replaced.

I originally had this topic in generally discussion for a reason; not that I don't appreciate the help, but the reason for the original post was to say "Fuck Mitsubishi. I hate Mitsubishi. I'm never owning one again. When I graduate from college and start a job I'm passing on the idea of owning a Lancer and going with a STi. A Ford 3.8 V6 made before 98 would give me less grief. My 4G63 gave me less grief! Wtf?!?"

On another note I just realized I probably have a garage full of every OEM part relating to cooling (besides the pipes); the kicker is they are all good.
It ran fine today and probably will for another week. I'm going with rc's advice and am going to get the coolant checked even though it looks the way it should. If it checks out then I'm pulling the radiator. If that doesn't work then I'm just screwed. That's the killer.

Since people skip to the bottom, here it is again in full. Everything replaced so far:

Thermostat (twice, both Mitsubishi $30 non-crap ones)
Upper Radiator Pipe
Lower Radiator Pipe
New clamps
Dealership flushing of the system including a coolant change
Engine Temp Sensor (just the one by the housing)
Radiator Cap (twice, tried a .9 and then went with a new 1.1)
All associated gaskets
Fan Relay
The fuses for the fan (since I had to buy ones after my interior lights fuse shorted)

The radiator and this second engine temp sensor (which I know is working) are all that's left. *That's it.* If they don't work out then I get a 180 degree T-stat and some Redline then see what happens. Again I love the help but everything has been done and, in some cases, twice. I hate this car with extreme passion.

Last edited by oreopride; 12/25/2006 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 12/26/2006, 11:14 AM   #33 (permalink)
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The one thing I noticed that wasn't on your list, was a water pump.

I wonder if the impeller has come apart or deteriorated, not getting enough coolant "flow" at lower RPM's.

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Old 12/26/2006, 11:18 AM   #34 (permalink)
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He had the pump replaced a while ago if you read all of his posts.

I've seen a brand new water pump overheat a car. Of course it was because once it got to a certain temp the "PLASTIC" (wtf!) bushings would allow the impeller to slip on the pulley. I find it a lot harder for our all metal pumps to do the same thing, but one never knows.
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Old 12/26/2006, 11:37 AM   #35 (permalink)
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He had the pump replaced a while ago if you read all of his posts.
The pump was replaced at 60K, The car now has 86K. The current pump was replaced BEFORE this trouble started. THIS pump has been in the car for 26K miles now. It could still be the problem.

I have been reading the posts.

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Old 12/26/2006, 03:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Didn't I state as much? You posted as if it hadn't been changed before you went back and edited your post.
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Old 12/26/2006, 06:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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OK bud, i hope this helps a little. First off please just breath a little. i know cars can be a pain in the ass, but the tards at Mitsu wont make it any better! I had the exact problem happen. This is gonna be a little confusing (maybe) but i think it will help. I think your problem is NOT the engine temp sensor but the Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit (sensor).
Go to:
http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/80A.pdf and go to page 12-13. Find connector B-08. That is the sensor that is feeding your gauge. That is the sensor that was giving me hell.
Whereas the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, conector B-11 is the one you have been replacing.
Also if you go to:
http://www.fast-4ward.com/3GsvcManual/90.pdf and go to page 138 you will see that connector (B-08) and the gauge in the wiring diagram and you can make sure all the other connectors are in good shape and make sure the correct resistance is being sent to the gauge.
I know mitsu was saying the motor was sitting at 220 but the same thing happened to me, it was that other sensor screwing everthing up. Also this is a long shot and this happened to me on a BMW, but the water pumps are made of plastic. If one of the impellers breaks off you can have trouble like your saying also (i know the water pump only has 26K but this did start after your water pump replacement). I would do the other sensor first (easier!) Hope this helps

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Old 12/26/2006, 07:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Didn't I state as much? You posted as if it hadn't been changed before you went back and edited your post.
Nope. My edit was at 10:17, Your post wasn't till 10:18

btw, my edit was just for spelling.
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Old 12/27/2006, 01:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I had this happen to me. Actually my upper radiator hose busted, caused it to run hot. Then after that, after I changed the hose, refilled everything, it would run hot sometimes. I could make it to work perfect, then leave for lunch and it would overheat, get lunch and come back, and it would do fine. The dealership checked mine out and it was actually the motor in my fan going bad (i have a 00). I swear when it started overheating I could hear the fan coming on. Especially at idle when it would get hot. I swear I heard the fan coming on. But they replaced that and now it hasnt overheated since (been about 3 months now). I guess im saying it still could possibly be your fan after all this. Like i said, mine worked sometimes, and sometimes it wouldnt.
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Old 01/07/2007, 10:11 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I had the same problem with overheating it may be your water pump thats what i replaced and it stopped overheating.
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Old 01/09/2007, 04:59 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Me 4tw.

I (unfortunately) was right. I burped the coolant in the system for air last week and the car ran fine....until today. Same symptoms, car overheats at idle, i curse the gods, etc.

So I burped it again. The car is now running fine and doesn't overheat. In a week or so I'm betting it will do it again.

My car is getting air into the coolant, which explains why my resevoir is really full and also as to why the car overheats in the first place. I haven't gotten that combustion gas test done but now I have every reason to do so. For now I'll be getting a new (i.e. replacing the one that has a whole 1k miles on it) radiator cap and hoping that fixes things for good. My oil doesn't look like it's been mixing with coolant, so if that doesn't work out then it just goes back to the "air pockets being created by warped head" argument.

Time to get a Toyota.
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Old 01/09/2007, 06:05 PM   #42 (permalink)
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avoid the 98-2000 1zzfe like the plague if you do get a toyota, you may be just as frustrated with that motor as you are with this one. the rest of the engines seem pretty good from what ive been hearing tho.
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Old 07/16/2007, 07:56 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Cause of Coolant Lost??? (searched)

edit

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Old 08/07/2007, 01:33 PM   #44 (permalink)
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so did you ever get it to stop overheating?
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Old 08/07/2007, 01:39 PM   #45 (permalink)
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let me copy/paste what he said on the corolla forum




Quote:
I still have the Eclipse but I basically use it for Saturday night dates. I'm trying to sell it right now. The problem ended up being the fan relay (keep in mind, the replacement one) worked about 95% of the time. When you drive for an hour though 95% works out to some really random overheating. It runs fine now but every time I look at the car it just pissed me off. mad.gif
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Old 06/30/2008, 11:59 PM   #46 (permalink)
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This thread is a life saver. Sorry to revive, but I'm having the same issues that started about March. I wonder how much time I'm gonna waste on this. No warranty, but I think even if I took it to the dealership, those bastards are the slimy sleazy type and would see the CAI on my block and fuck me over.
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Old 04/11/2011, 11:07 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Is your car actually over heating? Or is the sensor inside the car bad? U can tell when the gauge is overheating but your coolant fans are on. That doesn't mean its over heating your sensors could be bad. I had somewhat of the same problem but the temp sensors were bad....I got them replaced and I don't have the problem anymore
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Old 04/13/2011, 03:37 PM   #48 (permalink)
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You have a air pocket sir. Your coolant system needs to be burped. If your car was really overheating, You'd be looking into the 6g74 or 3.8 swap Or dropping it off at Pharm's to get boosted.
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Old 04/13/2011, 03:41 PM   #49 (permalink)
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When you put the cap back on make sure you squeeze and hold that lower pipe until you have locked the radiator cap. Otherwise you'll be going through the same process again. Getting the air out of the system takes at least 20 minutes.
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Old 04/13/2011, 03:53 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oreopride View Post
Absolute B.S.

I have an 86k 2001 Eclipse GT. I have a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty. And I have a POS lemon for a car. The car only overheats at idle/under 15MPH, but does so at complete random. It sometimes happens for a few days and sometimes the car runs fine for a week. As you can imagine it's absolute hell trying to convince the dealership something is wrong when the car is so random in how it behaves. When it overheats it goes all the way up to the 3/4ths line; at any cruise above 30 MPH it runs perfectly fine.

Since July (the last 4k miles) the following items have been replaced/work has been done:

Thermostat (twice, both Mitsubishi $30 non-crap ones)
Upper Radiator Pipe
Lower Radiator Pipe
New clamps
Dealership flushing of the system including a coolant change
Engine Temp Sensor
Radiator Cap (twice, tried a .9 and then went with a new 1.1)
All associated gaskets

Want the insult to injury? The car doesn't leak coolant, because if it did I'd happily pay for the new water pump. The car doesn't burn coolant, because if it did I'd happily pay for the new head gasket/head (well, the warrantly should on those). It has the same amount of coolant in it's shit system today as it did 3 weeks ago.

So yesterday, on the way to the dealership, it got to the 3/4ths temperature mark. I drop it off to the tech and they look at it; then, this being the 3rd time it has been in for overheating, they confirm that it's actually overheating. Their answer?

Him: "Well sir, it's obvious there is some kind of blockage going on in the car. It either needs a new flush ($70) or the thermostat replaced ($148!!!!! Holy shit)"

Me: "If you look through the records of the car you'll see I've had all that work done there and, on the recommendation of one of the techs, replaced the T-stat myself after 1 month of the problem not being fixed."

Him: ".......well, come on down and we'll talk it over."

I get there and they give me the same answer. They look over the records and say the only thing they can think that is blocking the flow in the car is the radiator. But if that was the case the car would overheat all the time, right?

Right. So I take it, on the dealership's recommendation, to a radiator/cooling shop. They look my car over and....suprise, suprise. It runs at idle for 20 minutes without overheating. They drive it and it's perfectly fine. They are absolutely mistified to see a bill of sale from Mitsubishi that's not even an hour old mentioning the car's overheating problems. They give me the answer that I had already considered: If it overheats only at idle then flow testing a radiator is a waste of my time and money. Also they can't continue working on it since the car has nothing going on with it. Another $27 gone (though they were real nice in not referring me to the mental institute as a man who goes around getting people to work on a perfectly fine vehicle).

I drive the car 30 miles back home, pull into my driveway....AND IT STARTS OVERHEATING. I'm absolutely ready to junk this fucking car. Ive owned two Mitsu's now and have no intention of ever owning one (sans DSM as a "2nd car") again. My 330HP Eagle Talon could barely hold an idle, but at least it had 135k miles and speed as an excuse.

The *only* thing I could possibly imagine is that I have a head that is warped ever so slightly as to keep air pockets in the system. I've heard of that happening to cars before but you notice that kind of workmanship straight from the factory/after a rebuild. Not when you're 86k miles into owning the car yourself.

Oh, and my CD player stopped working but it's a non issue since I drive the car so little. And I had the wiring harness melt on itself while driving over bridge at 11PM which instantly killed my headlights. All this at the grueling 85k mile mark.

I know it's not the ideal forum for saying this but after going on dates and looking like a tool because I have to turn the car off at idle, after missing classes for the first time at college because of a unreliability in a car under 100k miles with regular maintenance, and after calling friends at 2:30 AM to stay at their house because my car can't handle city driving conditions for another 3 miles, I believe I've earned the right to say it:

**** Mitsubishi.
If this car was taken care of you would not have a problem and I'm not blaming you. You really need to sit down and give the whole car, sensors and all a once over. This car when it's treated right and not given autozone, kragen, etc parts is fantastic. Cheap parts and rushed work are what kills it. Up until I was rear ended my car was flawless it was 2001 gt with 86k. I've driven through storms, a tornado, a mini riot (don't ask) and snow. Countless road trips up and down the east coast with a car full of people and a car full of parts. Didn't skip a beat. How? Ask the other members here who say the same thing I'm saying. I do my own work, I buy oem parts, I did'nt wait for the intervals to take care of things. Your car needs some TLC and some respect bro that's all.
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Old 12/05/2011, 06:29 PM   #51 (permalink)
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This is the best thread I could find that sort of addresses my issue. For the past few days, I've been noticing that my temp gauge has been acting screwy. The first indication last week was that the gauge was only getting to about 70% of it's normal operating spot. Normally, it sits exactly halfway in between cold and hot. I thought maybe it was a stuck open thermostat so I replaced it over the weekend. Still not fixed.

So I get in my car to go to work this morning, and I noticed that when I started it the temp gauge was already off the line. On a nice cold day it usually takes about 5 minutes of idling before it gets to that point. I kind of let that slide a little bit. The last straw was driving home today in 32 degree weather down the highway at 70+ MPH. The gauge only got to about 50% of it's normal spot.

So is my gauge toast or is the sender on the block toast? I can't find jack about this sensor in the service manual so I have no way of testing it.

The ECU temp sensor appears to be good. Fans and everything appear to be working as designed; it's just the gauge.
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Old 12/05/2011, 06:45 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I'd just go ahead and replace the SINGLE WIRE temp sender, they're fairly cheap and do go bad.
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Old 12/05/2011, 06:58 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I'd just go ahead and replace the SINGLE WIRE temp sender, they're fairly cheap and do go bad.
Where can I pick one up at? Stealership? I looked on Autozone's website, and they appear to only sell the coolant temperature sensor which is where the ECU plugs into. Don't need that one.

What's the technical term for that thing so I don't sound like a fucking idiot trying to describe it?
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Old 12/05/2011, 07:44 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Coolant temp sensor for gauge or coolant temp sender. Worst case, see if RockAuto has one or yes dealer.
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Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
*rolls into lift while talking to passenger* Oh I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of HOW AWESOME MY ENGINE IS.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'
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Old 12/05/2011, 08:01 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Damn. I just spent $26 for an AC Delco one at Auto Parts Warehouse and Rock Auto has it for $14.

I'll be bookmarking Rock Auto. Thanks.
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