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Old 07/08/2010, 07:46 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo_Mo View Post
Here's some pics.
The cover is this one that you can see hanging down with the flashlight shoved in. Take it down and you can see the evap core. It is big enough to be able to brush of the core and vacuum everything out. You can't really reach the drain hole if it is plugged though.
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Old 07/08/2010, 09:18 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tdevriesgb View Post
The cover is this one that you can see hanging down with the flashlight shoved in. Take it down and you can see the evap core. It is big enough to be able to brush of the core and vacuum everything out. You can't really reach the drain hole if it is plugged though.
I'll give it a shot this weekend if I still notice water on the floorboards. I don't want to pay 800 bucks like the Mitsubishi guys said. I wish I could see in the engine bay, or underneath it where the hell the water is going. It'd make this a whole lot easier. Some Mitsubishi guy said the following on yahoo answers.

"seal the exterior around the drain in the engine bay"
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...4144824AA9HHSY

Id do that if I knew where the heck the drain was in the engine bay :/
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Old 07/08/2010, 04:49 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Hey guys, sorry to double post, but to do the vacuum trick where I remove that black cover do I need to drain the coolant and all that or can I just open it up and stick a vacuum in there?
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Old 07/08/2010, 05:57 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Hey guys, sorry to double post, but to do the vacuum trick where I remove that black cover do I need to drain the coolant and all that or can I just open it up and stick a vacuum in there?
just open and vacuum. it is only an access panel.
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Old 07/26/2010, 04:15 PM   #65 (permalink)
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I just fix mine too, the same exact place in the pitcure, I really dont know why mitsubishi make it so difficult to take out the drain pan. Where is the cabin filter in the car? I will looking and cannot find it.

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Old 07/26/2010, 07:22 PM   #66 (permalink)
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The cabin air filters only came on 2000 year models. If yours is newer than that, it doesn't have one.
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Old 07/29/2010, 07:26 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cam View Post
I ripped out the interior of the car and was able to jamb my hand and a shop vac into the back and rip out the crud, leaves, and pine straw. How in the shit did that even get in there. Hopefully i wont have any issues. A/C is a lot cooler now thats for sure.
How in the shit is right...looked like I had enough red thread in there to sew a Chinese flag. And BTW ripping out the interior sucks, but look here for help:
HOW TO: Remove Front seats/carpet
You *will* be able to get the front carpet out without having to take the rear seats out, but you will need to lift them: look for the little black ring, and pull/hold that so that the seat will lift freely.


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Originally Posted by GSXROFDFW View Post
I hope you guys are all pulling up the carpets and drying them out with a fan or something over night. Otherwise it will be stinky mildew city in there.

I pulled my console, seats and carpet the other night.
I have been driving around with the console and carpet out for a day or two to make sure the leak has stopped after blowing it out with compressed air and it has not!!!!! It is unclogged but I dont know if the rubber is rotted away and not sealing or if I blew compressed air too hard or what.

There is alot of water that gets trapped under the tar mat too and it will rust if you do not get it.
I did the same thing, it's gonna have to stay out for a few days till I get around to completely fixing the problem. I need to clean them (they were already mildew city to the point where my car was getting moldy, no wonder), but I am also thinking about taking apart the lower half of the evap case because I couldn't get it as thoroughly cleaned as I would have liked. I'll try running the water trick first, but running the A/C didn't seem to cause any leakage.


Thoughts/experience on pulling the lower half of the evap case off, anyone?

EDIT:
Sh%#...
What's the lifespan on not having to put one in? I'm an '01, and it's made it about 9 years... I'll just have to try to sell it before it comes back!
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Old 08/02/2010, 09:20 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I have a 00 GT with a flooding drivers floorboard. Now since I have a cabin air filter in my car is it possible that I don't need to take off the console to vacuum out the evaporator? Could it just be a clogged drain?
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Old 08/04/2010, 10:33 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Galant drain modification???

Hey guys im new to club 3G. My wife has a 2003 GTS. I have attempted to clear the drain 3 times now with no luck. It drains for about a day or two then starts leaking again. I did notice that when I pour water into the evaporator case, it drains fine but with ac running, it drips not from the drain tube but from between the subframe and firewall. Does anyone have info or know about performing this Galant tube "mod" that a tech told me about?? sorry for the long post but this is rediculous.
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Old 08/16/2010, 12:27 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Well i've had the same thing going on almost a year now; I thought it had something to do with all the junk that collected over the years. After cleaning all that out i put it back together and the same thing happened, just more water. That’s when I searched for this problem and came to the 3g club, the seal was my problem. I’ve now been with none leaking A/C for about a week now, the cure was some LOCTITE 2 Oz. Putty Epoxy right under the tube that’s up against the firewall.
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Old 08/18/2010, 04:37 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I had the same problem till today ....didnt really feel like pulling the dash out and the whole evaporator box to seal the box to the firewall ...here is the really easy way out if your drain hole is NOT plugged and you still have water on the floor... Go to a/c shop and ask for some "dum dum" tape ....or auto parts store....black sticky tape almost looks like the tar...pull the battery out of the car and intake if you need more room its not necessary though..pull the heat shiled material that is on the firewall around the drain hole just pull it out of the way and yes you can squize your fingers around the drain hole and pack it with that tape all the way around and you are all set....you can also put some on the inside but its not necessary...
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Old 09/07/2010, 06:55 PM   #72 (permalink)
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my car does all this..idk whats wrong..i did the a/c leak thing..and it worked fine for 2 weeks..problem solved...

but then it started pouring ( im in fl) and now both drivers and passenger sides get puddles..=(
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Old 03/03/2011, 09:55 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Bumping an old thread for more help. I sealed the inside by the gas pedal and cleaned out the evaporator box with a shop vac back in September an the leak went away....now its back but not nearly as bad. My carpet has already been destroyed by this and I pulled the trigger and bought new carpet a week ago. Now I don't want to put it in because of this. Should I try to reseal it again or just say fuck it and pony up some cash at a dealership?
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Old 03/04/2011, 09:54 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Same problem here. I'm no help right now, but I'm letting you guys know that within the next few weeks i will be tearing all my dash out and will provide a how-to and pictures on how to fix this.

I know my problem is where the drain tube meets the firewall and the shitty material used to seal it. The material goes bad and then - leak. We all need a relatively quick and cheap way to fix this, hopefully that's what I'll find. I'll keep you guys updated as I go along.
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Old 03/04/2011, 10:31 AM   #75 (permalink)
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If you have a sunroof, check the drain plugs. They're probably blocked and contributing to the problem.
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Old 03/05/2011, 11:41 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by spyder-man34 View Post
Same problem here. I'm no help right now, but I'm letting you guys know that within the next few weeks i will be tearing all my dash out and will provide a how-to and pictures on how to fix this.

I know my problem is where the drain tube meets the firewall and the shitty material used to seal it. The material goes bad and then - leak. We all need a relatively quick and cheap way to fix this, hopefully that's what I'll find. I'll keep you guys updated as I go along.
Send a PM once you got some pics together, My friend and I are going to revisit the issue next weekend and replace all the motor mounts as well. I know the issue is with the seal but I cant seam to permanently fix it. I ordered a new cabin filter as well. Maybe that will help out?
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Old 03/05/2011, 11:44 AM   #77 (permalink)
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If you have a sunroof, check the drain plugs. They're probably blocked and contributing to the problem.
My GT doesn't have one. Wish it did though.
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Old 03/25/2011, 07:56 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Ok, so I finally fixed this problem for me. After taking it all apart, it was definitely the gasket material that fits aound the drain tube that has gone bad. What occurs is as the water drips out of the drain tube on the engine side, some of it - especially when driving - will trickle back to the firewall and gasket. This gasket becomes like a sponge and soaks up the water until the point that it starts to leak backward into the cabin in this area - you can see where the water has dripped as it has left a trail of discoloration:



The fix is simple in theory but not so simple in practice. You can either replace the gasket which entails taking all your dash out or you can seal up around the firewall area on the engine side all around the drain tube.

Several of you have asked where the drain tube is. This view is looking at the firewall behind your battery directly behind the motor mount. I inserted a coat hanger wire through the tube to clean it out and show me where the outlet was:



Procedure I used:

1) Remove your strut tower bar - this is not necessary but will allow you to get your arm down in this area.

2) Unbolt the power steering hose lines directly in front of the drain outlet (either a 10mm or 12mm bolt). You will need to pull these as far forward as you can in order to get your sealant around the drain outlet.

3) I purchased a 2 part expoxy sealant that is waterproof and flexible - you can find this at any automotive or hardware store. Silicone, etc will work too.

4) Try your best to get the sealant all around the tube - especially at the bottom of the tube as this is where the water is rolling back in there.



You may need to go back and put on additional coats of sealant if you feel you didn't get it the first time or if you just want to be thorough.

Note: This procedure will not help you if there is a crack further upsream of this outlet causing the leak.

I hope this helps some of you as it has helped me. Now my project will be finding/fixing all the leaks in my spyder top.
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Old 06/08/2011, 10:24 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Hi Spyderman34,
Thx for your post.
Do we need to remove (or partially remove) the driver side carpet?
Did you clean a evaporator as well?
I see on the pictures that you made all job done through the engine bay.
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Old 07/28/2011, 03:03 PM   #80 (permalink)
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This is what I ended up doing after my dads favorite auto tech failed about 5 times to solve the problem the supposed right way.



I followed the water down to its lowest point before it started going into my actual foot area, and drilled 4 'small' holes. I also made a dam of silicone caulk redirecting any water that went over the holes back towards them. I have been dry for days lol.

Make sure the holes are small so you don't get water from rain or melting snow in your car.
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Old 07/28/2011, 07:52 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Next time can you post a larger photo that is even blurrier?
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Old 07/29/2011, 01:30 AM   #82 (permalink)
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sorry didn't realize it was so big, just trying to help

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Old 07/29/2011, 07:39 AM   #83 (permalink)
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but that didn't fix it at all, it just let's it drain out...but still from the wrong place. That's like having a clogged gutter so you drill a hole ahead of the clog rather than clearing it.
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Old 07/29/2011, 03:24 PM   #84 (permalink)
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I've taken it to two auto techs, with no avail and tried all the suggestions on this page myself, I'm tired of screwing with this problem and I don't care where the water's coming out so long as my carpet isn't rotting out.
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Old 07/29/2011, 05:14 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone who contributed! I think my problem is by the firewall. I have already vacuumed out all of the crap in the evaporator box, and it continues to leak. I can see the water dripping down when the ac is running. I'll try the silicone thing on the tube, and if that doesn't work, I will try the dealer. They quoted me $93 to "clean out my system".
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Old 07/29/2011, 06:12 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Use a bit of bent hose to extend the tube away from the firewall and down below the opening.
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Old 07/29/2011, 06:20 PM   #87 (permalink)
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To everyone who has successfully fixed this using the silicone method, how did you get it all around the tube from the inside of the car? Like, do you have to take anything else off, or just go crazy with silicone and try to cram it in there?
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Old 08/01/2011, 04:08 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Does anyone have any other ideas? I have tried the silicone, but I can't get around the top of the tube by the pedals because the evaporator box is in the way.
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Old 08/16/2011, 03:35 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Use a bit of bent hose to extend the tube away from the firewall and down below the opening.
Bitter have you actually done this? If so what size hose did you use?
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Old 08/17/2011, 04:13 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Has anyone tried to place a hose to extend it? I seems to me that the space in-between the hose and the bracket there would not be enough space
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Old 08/18/2011, 08:56 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I have heard from my dealer that a drain tube from a Galant is a solid solution. I don't know how to remove this one and reinstall the Galant one though.
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Old 08/18/2011, 09:20 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Bitter have you actually done this? If so what size hose did you use?
I have, but not on a 3G. It was a Chrysler mini-van with a bad foam seal around the drain tube letting water back in.
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Old 08/18/2011, 10:23 PM   #93 (permalink)
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I have heard from my dealer that a drain tube from a Galant is a solid solution. I don't know how to remove this one and reinstall the Galant one though.
Have to remove the dash to get the HVAC unit out AFAIK.

About the 90 deg hose, I'm going to look at advance auto for this, they have a bunch of "pcv" 90 deg hoses that 1 may work?
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Old 08/19/2011, 08:00 PM   #94 (permalink)
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AC drain problem

I understand from reading the many posts that the dash needs to be removed. Mine was really cracked so I found a used one and have removed the old dash. But I simply cannot figure out how to get the lower drain pan out. I have removed the small screws and 2 spring clips on driver side of lower box. Is there someone that can explain just how far the ac system needs to be disassembled??? I have bought the correct drain tube and the update to convert my '03 to accept a factory filter. My pan had almost no trash in it.
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Old 08/19/2011, 09:16 PM   #95 (permalink)
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I found a video on Youtube of someone discussing the repair. I didn't make the video, and I hope I'm allowed to post a link, but I think it would be helpful to someone who is having trouble.
2000+ Mitsubishi Eclipse Air Conditioning (A/C) Drain Tube Repair - YouTube
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Old 08/21/2011, 05:17 PM   #96 (permalink)
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AC drain leak

For those of you contemplating tackling the dreaded ac drain pan leak by removing the dash, removing the dash will only get you part way to the solution of installing an updated drain tube. There is an excellent step by step explanation done by FOOCH 9/27/04 on this forum HOW TO: Tear out the whole dash, even the big piece. that details dash removal. I spent most of a Saturday and part of Sunday removing the dash (mine was terribly cracked) only to find that most all the ac system needs to be removed in order to replace the drain tube. The thread just before this one details how to instal something like 3M window seal around the drain tube from the engine side. I removed the air cleaner box and hoses and the strut bar, applied the sticky stuff and it took all of 30 minutes.
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Old 10/18/2011, 11:08 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Well after many applications i have stopped the leak with waterproof 2 part epoxy. I first try to use a normal 2 part epoxy not waterproof to seal from the inside, which lasted about a week. I then went to some silicon and tried to seal it from inside the engine bay but that didn’t work, it is really hard to get just a few fingers more less a finger full of silicone. So I can assure you, if you use 2 part “waterproof” epoxy it makes the job so much easier and will work like a charm. A special thanks to spyderman34 for the pics, they helped a lot!
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Old 10/18/2011, 02:59 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Well after many applications i have stopped the leak with waterproof 2 part epoxy. I first try to use a normal 2 part epoxy not waterproof to seal from the inside, which lasted about a week. I then went to some silicon and tried to seal it from inside the engine bay but that didn’t work, it is really hard to get just a few fingers more less a finger full of silicone. So I can assure you, if you use 2 part “waterproof” epoxy it makes the job so much easier and will work like a charm. A special thanks to spyderman34 for the pics, they helped a lot!
Good job.

Best way to fix this is to seal the edges on the outside drain tube. I did it a few weeks ago and now my driver's side floor is bone dry.
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Old 10/19/2011, 09:15 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Me too. It's nice not having a mildew smell anymore!
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Old 11/02/2011, 10:06 AM   #100 (permalink)
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What bitter suggested - using flexible tubing - is not practical in this case as there is a power steering hose forward of the drain tube that will not allow you to get a flexible hose on. His statement of the problem is absolutely correct. The foam seal around the tube has degraded and has allowed water to leak back into the car.

Using my fix, you will not have to remove the carpet on the inside. I would suggest opening up your evaporator box from the inside and cleaning it out. I would also check the box all around for any cracks that may be allowing water to flow back into the car.

My problem was at the firewall. I chose to tackle mine from the engine bay side as this will allow you to get epoxy all around the drain tube. I tried the silicone method from the inside and it did not help me.

And I did use the 2 part epoxy you guys have been talking about, it smeared around the tube good and sealed it well and is flexible. Glad to help you guys out. Thanks.
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Old 11/27/2011, 03:23 PM   #101 (permalink)
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My floorboard is starting to get wet. Or at least very damp... I'm guessing I'm having the drainplug issue. I read the thread, yes. Any further suggestion on making this as easy as possible?
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Old 11/27/2011, 06:52 PM   #102 (permalink)
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^ The two-part waterproof epoxy, from the outside (or maybe the inside also?) of the car, looks like the way to go - if you indeed have water coming back in from the outside of the firewall. I think you can detect it by inspecting the seal from inside the car. (disclaimer: I didn't have to do this myself) If not, you might have a clog inside the evaporator pan.

I was lucky not to have water coming in, but I did read through all related threads when I had to pull apart my A/C ducts to get rid of mouse nesting crap... ....it was awful.... gross. Took me a while to do this...what a pain. The evaporator pan was full of shit...i should go back in there, unfortunately, and scrub it better.. thats the hardest part to get to. The blower fan was just a big mouse nest... it could barely spin anymore.

If you start over by the blower motor, you can clean out the whole system from the beginning. It's really awkward getting to some of the screws holding the ducts together, but you have to reach them all, and it's doable. (all of this is under the dash on the passenger side, near the floor) Work towards the evaporator pan, and clean that out as pictured above in this thread.

After you're all done, I suggest putting a cabin air filter in, if you haven't done that yet. I think its worth the $45 or so for the part, (even though that's a rip-off for a piece of plastic) and after that the replacement filter inserts are $5 on Amazon. That would protect you in the future from a dirty, and maybe clogged, A/C evap pan.

Last edited by clem; 11/27/2011 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 01/15/2012, 07:45 AM   #103 (permalink)
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I had wet floor problem for two years. And I want to THANKS spyderman34 for his advise.
Look what I found under the hood:

The gasket between the drain tube looks shitty.
I seal up a black hermetic:


I think that this problem will not repeat anymore. Now need some time to test this solution.
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Old 01/15/2012, 06:05 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Can you get a zoom out this pic a lil bit?? I couldn't find that hole for the life of me..
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Old 01/16/2012, 06:29 AM   #105 (permalink)
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At first you need to take off the battery and the battery pad. Only then you'll be able to see and reatch a drain tube. Of course, you'll need a long hand
If I'll find some picture, I will upload it here.
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Old 01/16/2012, 10:38 AM   #106 (permalink)
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My problem was that it was leaking due to the gasket on the inside near the accelerator pedal. There was a little crap foam gasket that was distorted and falling out. I used some mighty putty to fix it. It held for a year and then I had to do it again. I've considered using some of that rubber in a can that I've seen on TV. I know that's not a great way to do it, but on a car this old, I'm not all that worried.
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Old 01/16/2012, 07:11 PM   #107 (permalink)
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I actually bought that stuff. The flex seal. I will try it on that hole see if it'll cut it (once I find it).
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Old 01/16/2012, 07:48 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I actually bought that stuff. The flex seal. I will try it on that hole see if it'll cut it (once I find it).
It's not too hard. The water is most likely leaking on the inside. For that you have to seal on the inside. The drain is right next to your accelerator pedal.
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Old 01/16/2012, 08:04 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Ok I'll check that out. But most of the dampness is on the passenger side. I need to do that evap vacuum cleaning like what the other did. On a side note, a member told me it could be the weather strip around the tweeter area also.
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Old 01/16/2012, 08:20 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Ok I'll check that out. But most of the dampness is on the passenger side. I need to do that evap vacuum cleaning like what the other did. On a side note, a member told me it could be the weather strip around the tweeter area also.
On the passenger side this is more likely.
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Old 03/16/2012, 01:31 AM   #111 (permalink)
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I found a video on Youtube of someone discussing the repair. I didn't make the video, and I hope I'm allowed to post a link, but I think it would be helpful to someone who is having trouble.
2000+ Mitsubishi Eclipse Air Conditioning (A/C) Drain Tube Repair - YouTube
This vid shows all. Had this issue for 2+ years. Haven't had any water issues since I followed this. Good luck

BTW, it was a pain in the ass. Almost impossible to see the hole and put the material around it at the same time -- I had to do it by feel which pissed me off cause I couldn't really tell how good of a job I did, but I guess it's fine because it's bone dry in my car now.
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Old 03/28/2012, 10:38 AM   #112 (permalink)
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this thread is going to save me from going to anger managment. lol. that issue has been killing me!!
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Old 03/28/2012, 10:47 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Well I'm sure you'll have some anger and frustration while fixing it but it's all worth it.
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Old 03/28/2012, 12:31 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Looks like I'll be doing this when I sound deaden my car in a month or 2.
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Old 03/28/2012, 12:37 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Looks like I'll be doing this when I sound deaden my car in a month or 2.
Next week for me but the same thing
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Old 03/28/2012, 01:06 PM   #116 (permalink)
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about how long of a process is it?
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Old 03/28/2012, 01:49 PM   #117 (permalink)
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about how long of a process is it?
Depends on a lot of factors. Just give yourself a day and when your done your done
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Old 04/25/2012, 11:36 PM   #118 (permalink)
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this should really be a video tutorial lol
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Old 06/15/2012, 02:02 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Finally got around to sound deadening the car, here's mine after about 10 years.



Mostly oak pollen tendrils/leaves
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Old 07/17/2012, 06:59 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Exclamation Same problem, but different!

Hi all, my car has an annoying leak inside, but it seems to be only when it rains. I have fixed the drain plug from the engine bay thinking it would help but it didnt. Any ideas? should it fix it from the inside? I have taken the carpet out and have a friend spray the car for me and could not see where the water was coming from. It did seem to be coming from that screw behind the gas pedal, but I could not make sure of that.


Any ideas please? If I cant fix it by the end of this week I am going to sell it and have someone else deal with it!

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