Ithinkyou's dohc build

[Ithinkyou]

Alright so heres the deal. The head swap's begun. But not just swap it an be done, im gonna leave that to the still few that have done or are putting together some kick ass projects. Of course this is basically THE best way to show your 3g some love. So to be more specific is i plan to assemble a detailed "report" if you will. Ive read through ALL yes ALL the threads involving the head swap on 3g. But not really finding answers i needed

So 1st off. What would this thread be without the christmas list. (relevant power bits at least)
Ill update with pics, parts, prices as i get em...
Costs so far:$$11297 --- +/-$10
Estimated Costs:


Stockish tuned AWD:$$10865 --- +/-$10
Built and tuned AWD: $$15355 --- +/-$10


Parts to get running:
$1800 Block
$900 Head w/ stock springs, bearing caps...
$800 Stock evo 8 drembo calipers/rotors/knuckles/hubs/spindles
$299 PTE 1600cc Saturated injector
$425 Farrea springs/retainers/keepers
$323 Startup Exhaust setup
$255 evo front hubs
$220 3.5" CxRacing FMIC
$185 Intake manifold w/ Throttlebody
$155 Evo8 ecu
$135 Evo9 Valve cover
$110 Fidanza Camgears
$110 ACT evo prolite flywheel
$100 Complete Tstat
$90 Complete CAS
$90 Lifters
$72 Galant timing belt
$68 Stock ex mani
$60 Rockers
$50 05 Coil packs
$30 Rear water pipe
$25 oil dipstick tube w/dipstick
$20 Throttle cable

Evo8 transmission swap
$800 03 Tcase
$570 ACT MB7-XTR6 clutch
$500 03 evo8 tranny
$-----front knuckles
$-----front hubs
$-----front spindles
$90 front axles
$45 evo starter
$30 Evo slave cylinder
$30 Ingalls evo camper bolts

AWD parts:

$450 2G rear subframe
--> 2G Control Arms
--> 2G Diff Plate
--> 2G Diff Hub
--> 2G E-brakes
Stock evo driveshaft
$40 2g Fuel tank

$400 Evo 8 rear diff
$90 Evo 8 rear axels
$300 Evo 8 rear brake assembly

Fully built:
$1200 ATP stage 3 stealth kit v1, ported(evom partout ftw again)
$600 Fp HTA86 upgrade
$900 Hoosier 245/45/17 Drag Radials(Maybe)
$850 Coilovers(Maybe)
$450 Blaqops progressive Double pumper
$235 Tial alpha Q
$250 Brian Crower 288s Cams(Gotta love evoM partouts)
$425 porting work+shipping
$110 Extra Exhaust piping
$160 Sun Hyperforce Ignition
$318 Precision 46mm v band
$119 OmniPower 4Bar MAP
$80Fuelab 818 Series In-Line Fuel Filter : -8AN Inlet/Oulet

$60 Oil Cooler
AN Lines

Optional parts:

$70 Motor mounts
$40 Stock evo Airbox
$30 NGKs 2steps cold
$25 upper T-belt cover
$-----Gm 3port boost solenoid+support parts
$Fluids/Cleaners/Gasket liquids
$11 stock evo BCS


Block 3-10-09
RRE Fully built 2.4L block(courtesy of NAPALM)
--Wiseco custom 8:1 pistons
--Eagle Rods
--Custom oil squirters
--ARP
-----main studs
-----rod bolts
-----head studs
--All factory Gaskets, bearings and seals





Head
Stock head
Farrea Dual springs/Ti Retainers

kelford 280/280
Fidanza Adj CamGears



Parts
PPI
--ported intake manifold
--ported 65mm throttle body
QTP e cutout
CX Racing 3" FMIC
OmniPower 4Bar, w/ ecu boost /logging/control
ATP stage 3 stealth


Injen IC piping kit

Drivetrain
ACT MB1-XXG6(the max for this car)
Cosmetic Crap:
Spark plug Cover

HP goals:
400+ on 91 @ 25-28lbs piss gas. Cali cops, Cali gas
600+ on e85 @33-35lbs

The 400 is for the track, the 600 is for the dyno. 300-350 is cake with the dohc swap so im gonna aim high. To at least see what i can get the car to put out. I might try the e85 tune on the track but im sure there may be a small issue with traction. Anyway i got a ways before i get to worry about that shit. The block can definatley take these hp goals in stride. Im basically building this power plant for an evo, till i find the right one at the right price. Initially im going to run my current turbo to the max. Considering since the FP Red is 1800 plus wait time. Im not in a hurry but i also dont want to wait all year waiting for all the parts to be in my possesion. Anyway theres alot of local evos in my area in the 400s and some 500+ on e85, daily driving so im going to reproduce that result in this car. Maybe with this hp potential i can get some respect from an evo tuner this time round

In observation of the many impressive results with FP Reds along with stock ecu. The big part of the equation is the fuel system upgrades. Due to the different properties of e85 vs gasoline and the requirements of high boost. You need 2 walbro or a kickass external one. Of course i dont want to have to hack the car up to get all of it to come together. The evo assmebly is the same as ours in size so im gonna go with the stuff i know is working for the evos. At the most i might have to open up the lines running under the car.

Also im limited by how the car sounds cam'd. Cali cops are gay and its always a factor, but i really dont care anymore. I dont street race aside from the random encouter on the road, but never a regular spot. so im really not so worried. Besides i get alot more satisfaction seeing numbers when i make a pass.

What i intend to do differently though is make this ONE install, minus swapping the red in later.. I wont drop it in till everything is assembled. Because tuning is gonna be a bitch! Heavily pictured and try to detail the build as well. This will in no way be a how to, just more of a thorough "study"Most of these parts are dependant on one another and doing it like you can when just adding a turbo. So with no deadlines and no rushing. Measure twice---Cut once!

Ill update as i get all the parts in, then continue once i get the head and cams together and begin assembling the head.

Update 3-31:got a great deal on a farrea dual valve spring kit, The head should be in wed or thurs. The collocting should be over pretty soon at this pace. Switching to a Omnipower 4Bar map sensor, and down to Kelford 272s. With the cams 280s would be nice but comparing stats on them shows theyre probably better suited for a higher reving 2-2.2 vs a 2.4. I think the 272s will mate with the 2.4 better in the long run.

Research points...
RRE's US EVO ECU Wiring Diagram
For:ecu boost control for all Goals and Speed Density for Goals 2-4

Found - LT Fuel Trim Control !!! - evolutionm.netMight or might not need with speed density functional

how-to: ECU-based direct boost control - evolutionm.net(Curve consistency)Finely tuned and controlled boost control. (AEM eat your heart out)

Restrictor pill mod(boost increase)

Disabling egr fuel pressure solenoid

want remove disable your rear o2 sensor without cel heres how

TephraMOD V5.10 - evolutionm.net
Look to run NLTS!, that should be sick!!!!

Links to jcsbanks' Speed Density patches - evolutionm.net
Looking for more straightforward control over tuning process.Should be worth it, especially once over 450hp

Virtual Dyno Room-Dyno Simulator - evolutionm.net
Street tuning with various settings of predudice, such as bushurs heartbreaker. Some dynos local to me. This guy put a shitload of work into this excel file on steroids. Be nice if someone did it for tuning timing an fuel maps

Update 4-3:springs are in...stock springs are off ill get the new ones on tomorrow

Update 5-20:http://www.club3g.com/forum/2639938-post22.html
520
Update 6-5:http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/122201-ithinkyous-dohc-build.html#post2649325
640
Update 6-10:http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/122201-ithinkyous-dohc-build.html#post2651618
653
Update 6-29:http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/122201-ithinkyous-dohc-build.html#post2661112
802
Update 7-9:http://www.club3g.com/forum/2666954-post40.html
906

HP goals Updated 8-5::

2.---450+ or max, awhp
on 91 35/40r w/ cams@ safest boost
[COLOR="White"](modest)12s full wt i guess[/COLOR

4.---650~700 awhp
on e85 35/40r w/ cams@ safest boost e85
10.9 no wt reduction w/o cage

[galant306m]

Awww shit lol.

Looks like you have a fun projected started. Enjoy and have fun.

(Can i have your turbo?)

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by galant306m

Awww shit lol.

Looks like you have a fun projected started. Enjoy and have fun.

(Can i have your turbo?)

ill start a part out thread prolly next week shoot me a pm...

[malachi]

hey man, Good luck. a few things: keep it out the car! much easier to work on, and a little things that would have helped me alot, is having the EVO water pipe that runs behind the motor. i kept the 64 one, and it made for some issues.

o and for resistor paks, dont do the radio shack ones like me.

o, have more confadience in your timming (cam shafts) than i do.

[CloudINC00]

1600cc holy crap

[GSKNIGHT]

Subscribed

[Fejery4491]

Shit.....and I'm probably gonna have to sell my 3g.....its awesome to see someones gonna go the e85 route I was considering....looks nice, keep it up!

[Ithinkyou]

I just got off the phone with a local shop so im shooting to be good to go about june julyish. Im pretty excited. He had some good suggestions so luckily i havent bought too much stuff yet. He wants to setup speed density via ecuflash for my power goals on E85. Also pointing out that an FP Red will be well over capacity with a built 2.4. Which makes sense if the turbo size is in between a 30/35r...mid 500s may be the max. We both agree i dont wanna be maxing the turbo when getting in the 600s. Hes pointing towards a 40r so well see where this goes. Itll be the centerpiece of the setup. And the most costly. But a good thing is avoiding the irritating fitment with the starter.

AEMs Injector driver which Napalms suggested for the longest. He pointed out how at 1600cc the IPW will be so low that the idle will blow and the tip in boost will be rediculous!!!(shitty) Yeah that part'll be fun.

He pointed out to me what i was most worried about was the lift and duration on the GSC beehives wont be streetable as well which i had a feeling about. I knew it was crucial picking the proper springs with these cams so im gonna go with the supertechs.

[3GwithVOLKS]

I was gonna say a FP red will spool way too fast on a 2.4l but id say a 40r would be to big. Id go with either a 62/62 or a 62/65

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by 3GwithVOLKS

I was gonna say a FP red will spool way too fast on a 2.4l but id say a 40r would be to big. Id go with either a 62/62 or a 62/65

you got my phone tapped?! hahaha He was sayin the 62/62 the most. But has broke 600 with 40r's for a while so either one for him. Im most concerned with the tubular manifold on cali streets.

[Cudude11]

do you still need those parts you emailed me about?

[Ithinkyou]

im waitin for the head to show up so see whats on it 1st.

[Ithinkyou]

I thought id post a lil bit of research ive been doing between consultation and deading since ive got some springs on the way now. I originally wanted some Kelford 280s or revolver cams. But i started to think it might be more bling than proper setup. The conclusion ive gathered is mid 11 degrees of lift is gonna make this setup hard pressed to be a daily driver. Itll sound an run great but sitting at a stoplight with a choppy idle when police may be nearby, doesnt equal DD.

This being confirmed with some of the cams in the AMS camshaft test. The ones with the good results less the not so friendly idle is from the lift more than the duration.
2. HKS 27210.8 In/10.2 Ex Stock spring ok
5. Brian Crower stage 2 10.55mm In/ 10mm Ex need to be cam'd
6. Brian Crower stage 3 10.8mm In/ 10.36 Ex
7. GSC S2 11.2mm In/ 11mm ExI have a friend with these an know they need to be cam'd to idle smooth but perform great
8. GSC S3 11.5mm In/Ex
The trend with the ams cam test, which is old now but a good reference in general shows me that of course not all cams are measured from an industry standard but the lift will give the best clue on how the idle will work out. Needing springs or not also helps.

In comparing the 280s to the 272s the point is to keep the peak power away from my peak rpms so i dont have to wind it out every time i decide i want all of it.

[captain2k5]

This is going to be a track car, correct? you have a daily driver correct? if so, why do you sound scared of the police? its not like you will be seeing them everytime you pull it out of your garage.

anyway good luck on the build.

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by captain2k5

This is going to be a track car, correct? you have a daily driver correct? if so, why do you sound scared of the police? its not like you will be seeing them everytime you pull it out of your garage.

anyway good luck on the build.

LOL you would think so but my towns a commuter town an generally boring. The cops are bored too. Theres not much action here so driving around can be an adventure. I try to drive around in traffic so i can see them 1st. I had a situation last night when one was following me but there was another just up ahead of me. So yeah I make it a point not to see them often because it only takes one time to have the worse timing and get stuck with a ref ticket.

This is my daily driver and was during the entire last project. I had a backup car for major downtime but it died. Ill need to grab another one.

[VTEC KILLER]

im runing HKS 272 in my car and they are fine, im running a crower single spring setup. The 6262SP-B packs a solid punch. I know a guy with a built GVR4 making 520awhp on 24psi and pump gas.

[Ithinkyou]

damn those were a bitch to get off. Puttin the new ones on should be plenty fun too. Ill clean it up an finish tomorrow.

[VTEC KILLER]

Please tell me you marked each valve and where it came from?

[Ithinkyou]

yeah, but i need a different compressor. This thing slips and moves the spring in an off direction when i compress it. Actually im thinking about replacing the valves because some of them looked a bit fucked up.

[fearless]

any updates bro?

[Ithinkyou]

Na, my gf an i took a vacation so i just gettin back last night really

well i got the rockers finally so now i need the valve stem boots an cover gasket, cover then go from there.

[Ithinkyou]

Update 5-20:heads assembled, need some odds an ends. Gaskets, Belts, Tstat, CAS, hoses on intake mani, TB, FP solenoid. Once thats all on ill start on the fitment crap and what sort of setup im gonna go with, followed by a cost list, thatll be a good laugh. posted some temporary pics till then. Hopefully my updates will get closer in between. Prolly gonna get rid of the spark plug cover, or wear it only for track days.
I remember in my turbo thread someone asked me why i was so paranoid about
cops, here ya go. Read through that thread an itll be clear====>>http://www.norcalevo.net/showthread.php?t=31131
I was googling trying to find the vid only to find it posted on many other car forums. it mustof been stuffed with ignorance.
Anyway, with that being said i might have to step down/sacrifice my power goals depending on how big a 40r is compared to a 35. The turbo wont be a mitsu though so well see what i can come up with. Or i might have to find somebody good with sheet metal for a convincing heat shield. But for now i wont really worry about it.

[Fejery4491]

wow...that looks awesome. Keep up the good work!

[Cudude11]

hmmmmm sexay sexay. Keep up the always good work. Good Luck

[Ithinkyou]

Um so whats new... i updated the opening thread with a priced parts list. By the time its over im sure itll be an excessive indulgence to say the least.

Anyway I decided to move from the bushur porting to PPI. I figured it really started to feel like buying nikes. Thurough porting is porting, plus the name... I liked what they offered so im gonna go with thier stuff. I like thier LICP too. Besides Bushurs intake pipes got a rep for bein very difficult to tune especially with cams. Not trying to cheap out but i dont care that much for buying the names were all familiar with either. I save a few bills, big deal though. HA After asking tuners in person im gonna go with an Exede twin plate clutch once i get the tranny done. So goin cheap aint happinin.

So ive got some new stuff in...
Tstat housing
Intake Manifold
Throttle body
Stock evo airbox to make for a challenging stealth intake mod.

we all know what that crap looks like.
ATP manifold adapter
checkit!



Bolted up it looks to me like a 35r might be a tight fit. Concealing the A 40r... meh.... Maybe an RRE evo ex manifold flange "angled" there would be more effective at moving the turbo away from the starter. An option for a stock evo turbo maybe even.
If bolted up with something to put it at the angle its at here it appears to me that the spacer would clear the starter. Granted an evo tranny would eliminate all that shit anyway. Just food for thought. I plan to run a u-turn pipe over the cold side an down to the dorsal area of the DP with the WG somewhere in between. Any opinions on who that will effect the WG's performance in controlling the exhaust gases. Or would it be negligible to notice. Ill have a better idea on potential fitment once i can see how the turbos gonna fit in all this. If its too tight to have all that stuff in there so close i might have to put together a great heat shield for the turbo. Orrr maybe put the the wastegate venting directly on the DP. IDK theres plenty of creative things to come up with.

Moving on, I was leanin toward getting the cams next but i got the stock ones in. I might get it running then put the big ones in, maybe not... havent decided yet, mainly because the builds maybe like 25% done so nothings solid yet. So maybe the turbos next. Idealy i wanna find a 35r hotside w/ a 40r compressor. Ive only seen it on shearer's site as an upgrade option so im gonna check with them on monday. The receptionist at ATP gave me hella attitude when i wanted to talk to one of theyre mechanics about if they offered a 4088 with a 35 hotside Anyway... thats the update for now.

[fearless]

love the update bro. . . But it looks like to me you might have to go with a custom turbo mani. . You maybe have already answered or stated the answer, but What kind of turbo you getting? O and on the adapter you just got, what are the 2 hole ports on the side for? wastegate?

[fearless]

o forgot to mention. . . the motor looks beautiful!! lol. . . O paint the block black bro, it would look perfect. . . .

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by fearless

love the update bro. . . But it looks like to me you might have to go with a custom turbo mani. .

Well the jury's still out on that one. The adapter will lower the turbine an inch or so. The evo tranny should also eliminate the starter concerns as well. Once i get the turbo bolted up to it, ill see where it at...

Originally Posted by fearless

You maybe have already answered or stated the answer, but What kind of turbo you getting?

Im starting to lean towards a 35r .82 or 1.06. Since i have the displacement vs a 4g63. Atm im readinaround evoM for anyone with results running a 1.06. But it looks like most or stopping at .82 for the street. People with 40r's are stating that the power's crazy but the lag is too. So since being different or special isnt my concern, im narrowing my turbo choice between those 2 A/R's

Originally Posted by fearless

O and on the adapter you just got, what are the 2 hole ports on the side for?

44mm Tial Vband WG one should be good enough vs 2 38's

[Ithinkyou]

Quick update:
I just got off the phone with Ron@shearerfabrications to verify if the 6235r unit they offer would fit my adapter, which i suspected but just needed some verification. Since it is that points me to high hp turbo with a fast spooling hotside. That coupled with the added displacement we have over evos, Im very excited to see what i can get out of this setup.

Im gonna go into the design phase of the hotparts now. Ive got a prett good idea of what i wanna do with everthing i just need to get it all in my hands so i can finalize it! I got access to a welder at work so Im gonna bump the turbo purchase to early july and move to get the piping and various flanges all collected during june. I wish the 6235 came with a Vband hotside though, ill ask when i make the call. The lead time is like 2 weeks or something so, whatever. I might not be able to start on fitment till late august, so that just gives me more time to get all the hotparts together

[Ithinkyou]

Question directed towards slava, vtekiller, anyone else with evo tranny knowledge:
Are looking for a non ACD transfercase? (im seein only ACDs)
If no, do we need an ACD pump?
Never really learned the ACDs function so not sure on those.
03-06 trannies will work correct?(i see more 9 trannies than 8s)
Which also allows us to run thier axles right?(im guessing yeah on that one)

[Ithinkyou]

Fuckin tranny finally takin a shit on me
I might get my hands on a beater 240hatch. Im thinkin of puttin the 3g in the garage an slowly start pullin the motor but not sure on what to do on the tranny option. My turbo cash is gonna go into this situation now but id like some opinions on what would you guys do in this situation.

16g took its toll on this tranny so i could only think what a 40r would do. Im not seein a point to destroying a rebuilt or used low miles tranny
whats the ballbark on replacing a welded front diff tube on an evo tranny?
if thats not resonable i might have to skip out on the headswap of the 3g an look for the next car...

[malachi]

buy another one for like 200$ somewhere just to get you rolling

[Ithinkyou]

i wish man... i called about 4 different yards an everyones asking for at least 1k man thats a tranfercase off evoM right there. fuck this sux

[chino]

I can try to get you one for alot less then 1k but the only downfall would be it's down here in socal.

[Ithinkyou]

Lol you always got surplus parts. Na actually i got an update im pretty stoaked about.
-Bought a beater 240 for 200...with a megan racing seat , I might throw that in my car for the hell of it!lol

-finally an evo driver hit me back an wants 1400 for a tranny+T-case.
-traded a local 3g'r for a stock black hood since my CF hood was totally oxidized but im not interested in the "look" at all anymore, hence the trade
-But best of all is i can start the process to pull the motor to drop the new one in.

I did shop around for an evo since after replacing the tranny and replacing some worn out parts, the car would be great to trade in. BUT getting a loan is retarded without perfect credit so fuckit im still in the game. so it continues, for the 3g at least.

[chino]

Originally Posted by Ithinkyou

Lol you always got surplus parts. Na actually i got an update im pretty stoaked about.
-Bought a beater 240 for 200...with a megan racing seat lol
-finally an evo driver hit me back an wants 1400 for a tranny+T-case.
-traded a local 3g'r for a stock black hood since my CF hood was totally oxidized but im not interested in the "look" at all anymore, hence the trade
-But best of all is i can start the process to pull the motor to drop the new one in.

I did shop around for an evo since after replacing the tranny and replacing some worn out parts, the car would be great to trade in. BUT getting a loan is retarded without perfect credit so fuckit im still in the game. so it continues, for the 3g at least.

That's great dude!

Yeah I do I have 2 of almost everything lol

[Ithinkyou]

im gonna load a couple pics in a minute... heh

Damn just noticed the cam was on snow setting or somethin

[steadly2004]

Lookin good bro

[Ithinkyou]

Ok it out...
even though its technically not even halfway, for some reason im feelin excited about it.
Marked all the clips to thier respective locations on the tree. Put the wheels back on since im not fond of the idea of letting the brakes hanging for the duration of the build.
Now theres about 3 major pricey parts to get before it all comes together but im stoked, seriously!
I guess now ill swap the accessories, mounts an replace the belts since they look so awesome. Maybe, later take the bellhousing off an replace the flywheel/disk for when the stock motor goes back in...

[Ithinkyou]

03 tranny + stock turbo for 700. Now i just need a Tcase.
Funny part is lookin at what needs to be done to make it fit's really got me thinkin about spinnin 4 wheels instead of 2. With 2 different trannies, 3 motors, an a car on blocks stuffed in this tiny lil garage.....i think im goin current costs updated.

[Ithinkyou]

found a guy with totally parted out 05 GSR.
Got the front axles for 90 an the starter for 45! Im eyeballin the brembos an rear diff. But Ill prolly grab the tcase next week.
Also aquired an ecu, slave, an throttle cable.

Got the Cmember off(doin that solo was fun, all the cuts in my forearms. I love this shit), cleaned it up, an gonna take it to my friends tomorrow to cut, reinforce, an lower that.... thing, that the steering....thing...I dont know what its called. You get it Tied it up higher so its not hanging like that. Now just to find a GSX at a junk yard eh?

[02meclipsegt]

You sure have so much more done then last time I seen your car. Hurry up and get the AWD in so chino can get a fire under his ass to do his.

[Ithinkyou]

Got my ACT prolite in a few days ago. Its pretty light. like 10-15 lbs.

Anyway get this shit. I paid an evoM user like 2 months ago for an exhaust CAS. Fucker takes like 2 weeks before he even replies to any of my pms, and really only said anything because it was goin on 3weeks an i filed a paypal dispute. Sends me a pm like "oh i was just on my way to fedex you want your $$ back" Pf I tell em no i just want you to do what youre supposed to do and ship the way i requested in a punctual fashion, not bullshit me.

No reply for a couple of days so i escalate to a claim. Jackass lets the whole thing go through. Rule in my favor, they give me 36/90 bucks for the failed transaction. Then a week later the part shows up! Wow whata fuckface!

Now hes real talkative again, asking why i wont tell paypal to back off retrieving the rest of the 90. Im thinkin.... the case is closed in my favor after waiting 30days with half of it being paypal waiting for him to reply with his side of the story. Which he failed to do. Fuckit! Im gonna keep it, ignore him,... see what happens. What goes around comes around i guess.

I bet he figured it'b be funny to make someone sit an sweat it out, then send the part. What if i bought a replacement? fuck that shit. You dont do people dirty like that. pf!

[bwracing00]

damn that car is turning into a beast i cant wait to see this thing when its done amazing work glad your doing picture progress.

[malachi]

hey man, if its not to late, get pics of all your timming marks, as to help with the/my cam timming issue.

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by malachi

hey man, if its not to late, get pics of all your timming marks, as to help with the/my cam timming issue.

No wories, havent started on that. Havent finished the subframe tunnel yet, cause i cant find square tubing thats thick enough and not perforated. Still need some other shit after that too Im still about a month out waitin on parts.

[Ithinkyou]

Ok so, so far this threads been boring parts collecting. So i figured id post some ... "PRELIMINARY" work. Maybe provoke some actual discussion




FYI my friend an i cut all the way through, banged one side out of the way
cut the bar(12"), welded it in,
then did the other side. Bolts up perfectly in line still....
I think it would hold this way for a short while and for sure break or bend. Maybe not but im not gonna bank on it. Plus the welds are all splattery. Might have to get some argon at least. When considering the folding forces that area of the car experiences in daily driving... (driveways at an angle, shitty roads, mean potholes, ect) or abusive driving...(hard shifting, launching, ect), i want it to be rock SOLID on each x,y,an z plane.
To start off i had this picture stuck in my head...
But understand in retrospect why hatcher sent it back for more fabrication. I wasnt sure about cutting all the way through till we figured we cut, an weld one side at a time.

I also didnt like bringing the bolting points down for the rack.(ill post that up we i wake up) Im considering going longer to about 16"x2" square tube or cylindrical if i really end up not finding any steel square tubing. With... flat pieces running through connecting both ends of the newly inserted crossbeams. It sounds better to me thereby giving the crossbeams more metal to attached to the subframe to push up against.(didnt feel like rendering it)
Then in the middle of those place some angle iron to bring down the bolting points, fring out a curve for the rack to keep the fit nice and neat.

Still gotta figure out what to do about the holes for the stays that bolt up under the control arms.

[VTEC KILLER]

Nice progress. In regards to your question about the t-case, from what I was TOLD by the guy who built my t-case its better to use a non-acd case. I think there is a way to lock up the ACD case tho so it only runs 50/50 instead of biased based on the 3 settings for tarmac, snow or gravel. I would post that on Evom for quick, accurate answer.

[Ithinkyou]

updatedriginal post
parts lists
hp goals
research points

Research points...
RRE's US EVO ECU Wiring Diagram
For:ecu boost control for all Goals and Speed Density for Goals 2-4
pin11 BCS sensor
pin72 IAT sensor

Found - LT Fuel Trim Control !!! - evolutionm.netMight or might not need with speed density functional

how-to: ECU-based direct boost control - evolutionm.netFinely tuned and controlled boost control. (AEM eat your heart out)

TephraMOD V5.10 - evolutionm.net
Lookin to run NLTS!, that should be sick!!!!

Links to jcsbanks' Speed Density patches - evolutionm.net
Looking for more straightforward control over tuning process.Should be worth it, especially once over 450hp

Virtual Dyno Room-Dyno Simulator - evolutionm.net
Street tuning with various settings of predudice, such as bushurs heartbreaker. Some dynos local to me. This guy put a shitload of work into this excel file on steroids. Be nice if someone did it for tuning timing an fuel maps



HP goals Updated 8-5::

1.---350ish to start awhp
on 91 03 16g w/ cams@ 23~27lbs
mainly to get running in order, no tracktime

2.---450+or max fwhp/awhp
on 91 or e85 03 16g w/ cams@ safest boost
(modest)12s full wt i guess

3.---550ish awhp
on 91 35/40r w/ cams@ safest boost
11s full interior driver seat only, 2x pumper probably, hoosiers maybe

4.---650~700 awhp
on e85 35/40r w/ cams@ 33-35lbs e85
10s reasonable wt reduction w/ cage, fully built

[Ithinkyou]

Wanted to do Okada coils but evo norcal evo/empire's always got crackhead prices that are just too damn good to pass up. Reviews on evoM say this performs just as good as HKS's DLI(600ish) This goes for the same as a new set of okadas, but i came up on it for half that. So the solid ignition source for the e85's secured.

[J_StyleZz]

so ant when you get this thing runnin on the streets make sure that you dont forget to 2-step on a HANda and launch on his ass hahaha

[Ithinkyou]

Ok so heres a fuckin story for ya
Traded the 240 for a sentra for my backup car. He flips it for 1500(wtf?)gets a 300Z, lookin for parts for it he finds a MT gsx at the local pick n pull. NO F'n way im thinkin. I was on the way home from a party when i got the call so i had to shoot home, get the tools, an cash, an see what i could get off before closing time.

Could only get the driveshaft off which i cant use, and got the U mounts off. Im workin OT tonight but after work i gotta shoot out there in the morning because during the numerous irritating closing announcements in the yard some guy kept circling the eclipse i was working on. We left at the same time BUT he also had a 2g. Looked more show than go but im not gonna risk it. I plan to drop the whole rear out hide it in some other car just to take it apart just in case. For in stance the fuel tank only costs 30 bucks at this yard vs 100~150ish off carparts.comGotta make it happen!! Ill update tomorrow with the results.

[chino]

lol dude I can sell you mine if you need one Im moving up there by the 28th of Sep or send me the money and I can get you one in the next few days I just saw one at one of the local yards.

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by chino

lol dude I can sell you mine if you need one Im moving up there by the 28th of Sep or send me the money and I can get you one in the next few days I just saw one at one of the local yards.

Yeah find out the price. Also minus the rear diff if its not an AT gsx. Thinkin i might end up using an evo rear diff/axles/hubs.

Update:So i dragged my gf out to PicknPull with me. Got the rear end off, but couldnt disconnect the metal coiled brake lines Then Figured maybe i should get the diff off. Damn bolts look like 21mm and i didnt. Figured fuckit ill get the damn Fuel tank off. Me an the gf got it off an hauled it up front before sun started to beat.

42 bucks

Another angle.
Ready to put the timing belt on Cgear marks....


Bottom right Sprocket... This one bugs cuz the mark stays lined up till the belt goes on every time. Then moves off line 1 tooth


anyway Crankshaft mark....?
whats the reference point. hanes manual and the FSM dont zoom in an show the right angle to line up the notch on the sprocket to the little mark just above it. I guess i can get the head back off an put the pistons as TDC as best i can eyball it but. id rather go off the marks of course. Where should the reference mark point at

right

middle

or left

[steadly2004]

Middle or left looks the same to me.....

All you timing looks spot on bro, you're off to a good start

[VTEC KILLER]

FYI if you removed your balance shafts the timing mark on the oil pump doesnt matter. For the crank, manually get the motor to TDC by turning it slowly by hand, insert a long screw driver thru the spark plug hole, slowly turn the motor and watch for when the screwdriver comes to a complete stop, then look at the timing mark on the crank gear. The 100% correct way to do this is to put a degree wheel on the crank gear and a piston stop in the cylinder#1 spark plug hole, turn the motor until it stops (it will hit the piston stop) mark down the reading on the degree wheel, remove the piston stop, get the motor passed TDC, put the stop back in, spin the motor backwards until it stops, mark down the reading on the degree wheel, find the exact midpoint between the two readings and thats your true TDC, thats how a good engine builder would do it, but the screw driver method will get you close and make sure your using the correct mark on the gear. My stock crank gear had a little white paint mark on the leading edge of the TDC tooth.

[chino]

Can you take some more pics of the tranny? I would have sent you a pm but your box is full.

[Ithinkyou]

1st i think ill point out fitment issues ive spotted. Overall i add a little section in the 1st post when its all done. But to keep it simple ill only point out straight part fitment issues. Heres the first to really stand out:

Evo flywheels vs 3g flywheels. Theres a sort of guide thing to hang the stock flywheel on thats part of the crank shaft. I suspect it can come off because its NOT on my spare block i got last winter. But of course its on my stock and built blocks. Im thinking about maybe taking a dremel to it so the evo flywheel can sit flush the same as the stock wheel. The problems the same for any evo flywheel. Looking at an exedy twinplate or triple carbon or quarter master twin plate w/ hydralic TOB ($$$) the fitment issues still there.




Side note--- A tlton or exedy multiplate part will be added with a dogbox or shep tranny w/ longer gears. But for now ill just run with The max ACT makes for an evo @ 726tq.

2nd
I would have sent you a pm but your box is full. - Cleared
Can you take some more pics of the tranny?
Side by side Mainly the same besides the obvious addon for the Tcase to bolt up to.



Push(3g) vs Pull(Evo)



Forget what connector this is, but the pin patterns the same


Shifter stuff. moves the same as ours. 6speed swap would be a bitch


Speed sensor i believe it was. Only 1 screw an fit exactly the same.


Starter location on top
Could you only imagine if it were on the bottom how much easier boosting would be in stock form??Oh an does anybody know the part number for the evo flywheel cover??

Starter location
Tcase location

Input shaft diameter(3g)

Obvioulsy thicker to handle more powa


3rd
When i pulled this off the 2g i kept lookin at it like wtf are there 2 sending units Then the yard was gonna charge me a core for it an the filler tube. I was like i dont need this crap. Got those off to see one hole has the fuel pump and one has the fuel level. But then that got me thinkin. A 2x pumper is 2 walbros in a modded sending unit wired up to run together or 1 alone w/ the 2nd for back up right. Well maybe the 3g has an advantage in this situation when switching fuel tanks. Just use 2 3g sending units with walbros, setup the same wiring, same fuel lines, an save probably 50% with out even trying.

Ill have to research and look for some 2x pumper howto's an find out exactly how theyre setup to work. Also another thing to consider is i want to do an in car FPR? I would consider hiding it out of view in the engine bay some where but then that means making adjustments would not be fun since id have to reach into some wierd spot just to do it. With the bosch 1000s that have excelent reviews on multiple cars in including evos, come with spacers, and are high imp. Can run up to 100 psi fuel pressure in the 1400cc range which is perfect for e85. Hence the desire to be able to adjust it in car. Ill worry later when the parts start going back on the car with in the next few weeks.

[steadly2004]

Originally Posted by VTEC KILLER

FYI if you removed your balance shafts the timing mark on the oil pump doesnt matter. For the crank, manually get the motor to TDC by turning it slowly by hand, insert a long screw driver thru the spark plug hole, slowly turn the motor and watch for when the screwdriver comes to a complete stop, then look at the timing mark on the crank gear. The 100% correct way to do this is to put a degree wheel on the crank gear and a piston stop in the cylinder#1 spark plug hole, turn the motor until it stops (it will hit the piston stop) mark down the reading on the degree wheel, remove the piston stop, get the motor passed TDC, put the stop back in, spin the motor backwards until it stops, mark down the reading on the degree wheel, find the exact midpoint between the two readings and thats your true TDC, thats how a good engine builder would do it, but the screw driver method will get you close and make sure your using the correct mark on the gear. My stock crank gear had a little white paint mark on the leading edge of the TDC tooth.

Or just use the timing mark... lol

[Ithinkyou]

New addition to the equation:
cxracing.com: Turbo Intercooler 32"x12.5"x3.5", 3.5" Core: 20"x12.5"x3.5", 2.5" Inlet Outlet, LANCER / EVO VIII.

Turbo Intercooler 32"x12.5"x3.5", 3.5"
Core: 20"x12.5"x3.5",
2.5" Inlet Outlet





I made the choice by looking around at and IC cores and other popular evo FMIC sizes that fit my hp goal an chose accordingly seemed simple enough. I guess today all start on cutting the crash bar. Then previs some sort of solid mounting system for it. This time around i dont want it to be supported at all by the IC piping.