The RS/GS FI sections alternative to the search button

[Ithinkyou]

There are many repeat questions posed but never answered here because most dont want to bother helping anymore, posting proof in some instances, which is fine but it keeps most stuck in a 3g builders dark age. Especially for noobs. Which forces many to go off of 3g tuning/building myth an hearsay.
Unless they have a solid knowledge base to work off of, theres really only a small handfull of us RS/GS guys left that actually post at all anymore an know what were doing and accomplished, with less an less of us sticking around with so many better projects n things to move onto. For what its worth, ive never found a search button on any forum that actually worked really good. Especially when you knew what you were looking for but had no clue how to find it or what key words to type for. Sometimes your answe's buried as a single post in a 10+ page thread. But even still on c3g thereve been many setups finished but with no confirmed output. Thats the same as never existing, a guy heard from a dude, that heard from a dude in the parking lot at a car show, that a 3g made x amount of power. Same ol...

Well never know what some people have put down with theyre setups So why expect anyone to know like we do if nobody ever posts what theyre project did, does, or is about to do? If one says to them self, "Fuck i spent too much money for 250-280....that shit sux since my honda, mazda, ect buddy made x with x parts!" We all know its part of the package with this car so whatever, who gives a fuck. We all spent too much on something because we wanted too, we were impatient, or we got cash to blow, oh well whatever get over it The look on the other guys face when you smoke em --- priceless...when you do.

If your were linked to this thread, chances are high that youre a noob an asked a question thats been asked so many fuckin times its not funny, no really.... that many times. Thats why this thread is here. For you to READ and LEARN instead of being told to search which obviously dont work. Weve made it extremely straightforward to decide on if you should bother, and how to go about it. If youre not a noob, consider it our section wiki archive, in a waySo here we go....

Pre basic crap:
You need to ask yourself some questions before you even start this endeavor.

-If you hate to read, you FAILonce youre ready to post a question always press alt F4 an youll be ok
-Do I have enough money or a good job?
-Do I have the time?
-Do I have the proper tools?
-Can I do most of the work myself; will I have to employ someone, or both?
-Do my goals warrant an engine rebuild?YES newest car being 5 yrs old.
-Do I like working on my back for hours at a time?
-Do I have a garage so I’m not working in the cold or rain?
-Do I have a second car available when my car is down or on blocks?
-Do I have a good grasp of tuning an OBD 2 car with a piggyback, ECUFlash, or a stand-alone unit?
-Am I prepared to upgrade other important area of my car, such as clutch and brakes?
-Have I done my research using the forums as a resource?
-Do I have the service manuals?
-Do I really know what the fuck I am doing, or is my head so far up my ass I can taste the burger I had an hour ago?

If you find you are answering “NO” to some of these questions, if you proceed you will discover the “pain” . Knowledge is key and all of the above bullet points applied in both my builds and really applies in any car building project when you think about the big picture. Worth saying again: I wouldn’t have attempted FI the 3G without a second car. Ive done it an it drags the project out for weeks or months depending on the difficulty and your experience level. Unless your parts are all collected and you got a full week to yourself. Youre gonna need some extra wheels

Simple basic shit. I had one guy tell me he could hear the turbo when the guy shifted If that's you its ok you read this far, here's more crap to read... DIY Turbos

[Ithinkyou]

IMPLEMENTATION

Obviously, here is where things can get fucked up real quick. The mistakes usually come in the order that they are done. A classic example is when some one puts turbo on an RS/GS to "get it running" without installing any gauges or monitoring devices FIRST. It makes no sense and creates an impossible situation to trouble shoot. No Wideband(WB) is the worst thing to NOT HAVE. Understand the value of this monitoring device here! If you dont have it you need to get it or your car will fail sooner or later. If you drive it for a while then get it tuned the damage only takes an instant to occur an youll feel the pain sooner or later.

FIRST and FOREMOST! Buy:
an OBD2 scanner,
a datalogging program EVOScan 2.6+($25) support these guys writing apps so we can fuck with our cars!!
ECUFlash 1.42+ FREE (for flashable ECUs or another tuning device in non-flashable ECUs).

Then learn how to datalog the most relevant data AND evaluate the it!! While the car is still n/a, this is the time to hone your datalogging skills. At the same time, you can start buying and installing your gauges: Just for the hell of it i even started a poll to illustrate to you reading this why you do need to blow some cash on this hardware. AFR, EGT, Boost/Vac., Fuel Pressure (will require tapping fuel system, so it can wait), oil temp, oil pressure, water temp (the stock one blows), volts, or some combination of all. The more info you can get, the better. Ultimately you want to know, like the back of you hand, how your car runs and where the operational parameters should be. {Some like alot of gauges, i personally just run a WB and a boost gauge}Understanding this process BEFORE the install will do wonders for you!

Notice I didn’t say anything about tuning above. That comes next. Once you feel you can log and understand the data, it is time to apply that knowledge. Install your tuning device (AEM, ECUFlashhttp://forums.evolutionm.net/ecuflash/201146-ecuflash-tutorial-beginners.html). Take the time to understand how your tuning device will affect your cars major parameters. There are many other systems to apply to running your car, but these are the most common and youll be able to find plenty of support. If you wanna blaze a new trail thats up to you, but dont cry if you screw up, thats just part of the game

Anyway, pull out your datalogs and look for areas where you can improve your tune. Scaling your injectors and maintaining zero LTFTs is the key since 95% of your driving is done during non-Wide Open Throttle(WOT) conditions. Then go to a dyno and do your first WOT dyno tune. It’s okay if you let the shop tuner do your first tune. Observe, learn, and ask questions. If the guy is good, he can give you invaluable pointers that will help you down the road. Make sure to remember to log each run. If hes not that good youll know because hell be blowin smoke up yer ass that youll know better than that by the time youre ready to puchase a tune. Which you should plan on doing and factor into your budget.

Now it is time to start installing the essential components of your FI system. During your part collection phase. Unless your on a generous budget. You can be patient when looking for a part you need at the right price. I can attest to this after looking for a evo valve 9 cover for about 3 weeks. buying it then 4 days later seeing the 8 valve cover i wanted for a 3rd what i paid for the 9 cover i felt i had to settle for because i could only find them at outrageous prices at the time.

Start with all the fuel delivery parts FIRST:
pump,(walbro255)
HOW TO: Install Walboro 255lph Fuel Pump
fuel rail/FPR

There are 2 choices for the rail/fpr combo and minor issues associated with them.
--Stock rail aftermarket FPR+adapter
>>>>Tearstone Performance - Mitsubishi Billet Fuel Rail Adapter
>>>>-8AN adapter
>>>>-6AN adapter
--Stock evo rail stock evo fpr The $100 Fuel System Solution Thesis
These often go fo 40 tops on evoM. I personally wouldnt pay any more than that for it.


Injectors
Keep in mind if you sat down and set power goals that will determine what >>>you need<<< to add/replace.
Before i continue now you need to know why wrx injectors work with our cars. Fuel Injector Information
So now that you have a grasp for the difference between high an low impedance injectors wether you want to install resistors is up to you. Theres a wide variety of flowrates on both sides of the spectrum to reach your power goals on bot sides of the spectrum. Now the tune on the car needs to be "dialed in" for the larger injectors. You want to get the car running like stock again, which means, “zero” LTFTs. {This was the first stage of my build. I took my time and nailed the tune after I scaled for the larger injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump etc. I no longer had to worry about any issues with my fuel system and could move on.}

Now on to probably the most tedious aspect of this project dialing them!!! It may look like alot but the read makes it way less time consuming than it used to be. Extremely informative like a custom instruction manual for ecuflash. To illustrate just that, heres the table of contents.

http://evoecu.logic.net/mirror/merli...UIDE-V1.7a.pdf

[Ithinkyou]

MAJOR UPGRADES


an ECU
You need a tune for your goals. When you change anything in your setup you have to see what its changed on your car's performance always. Most of the time its minor unless its a considerably different turbo, FMIC, or bigger piping. If anything 2 of those will change together. Ive been here for about 5 years and have only seen 3 ecus ran on this platform and one is obsolete. To briefly cover that, if ecu flash never existed or was never developed to the extent that it has been. Emanage WAS the cheaper option to an EMS. There were performance issues with timing limiting boost discovered that left it shelved for our platform so in short that was that. If any shop tells you to run it, it would probably be better to walk away then explain to them how you have an evo ecu or ems for that manner. it would be in your best intrest to stay away from any piggyback ecu like this, you want something that has more support, more options, and is constantly evolving its software, this entire option will be obsolete soon simply because its not practical vs its competing options.

AEM's EMS - AEM EMS Information Thread Its expensive but can handle whatever setup you put on this car. Youll get your moneys worth from it especially if you grow into a higher performance build. If you want to give your tuner or yourself total tuning control this is the product for you.

evo rom flash - EVO ROM, download it here This would be your entry level tuning option. Itll run the car and you can get the job do for only the price of the tune. Or just tune it if you think you can do it or like a challenge. Its highly suggested to budget the cost of a tune into your build to save yourself the headache an your motor

evo8 ecu swap - this allows more options overall vs a rom flash. This is the new wave and its here to stay. Not only can you reprogram the stock ECU, but I know of people who have done it and make serious power and dont even throw a check engine light. Depending on what your looking to do you can do your research on evoM and employ extra parts that evos enjoy such as map switching, better running roms, modified roms. This technology will only continue to grow and expand as time goes by. The stock evo ECU option is cheap, readily available, a few companies write the software, its proven and now alot of tuners are supporting it. If anything you could get a feel for it with the evo rom flash and then move on to the actual ecu upgrade after a while.

special note:
For AT 3g's that want to stay AT. Youll have to run an evo ecu with your stock ecu to run a turbo setup. Dual ECU - new diagram
The stock ecu controls the transmission while the evo ecu runs the performance aspect... essentially. There is no evo rom flash for the AT transmission(airtek rom) nor will there ever be according to an Ecuflash v1.41 release memo If your AT and going turbo and wanting to go for balls out power, this isnt the way to go. The way to go is:
use an AEM, The AEM even has a provision for AT control, its a bit outdated and lacks in many areas, but if you wire it right, it can/will work. I hear the new AEM EMS II has better AT control features.
or
flashed EVO ECU and get the trans built at IPT. IPT's built trannies come with their own computers for shift control and dont need a stock AT ECU to work. something to consider...

[Ithinkyou]

A Turbo
Now that you've set your goals, prepped your fuel system you should start shopping for a turbo. Remember that link earlier. Depending on what you're willing to spend or need to spend start looking for a good price on that size turbo that will make the power you're looking for. (Quite simply an evo9 turbo or 50trim should be well enough) There's some parts to finish this part of the project that are essential, some optional. Ill point out the essentials:

-Wastegate
-Bov
-Piping
-Oil feed
-Oil drain
-Water feed
-Water drain

There's numerous options for each part, but some can only be used depending on other parts you've purchased. For instance using an external wastegate with an internally gated turbo(2g, evo turbo). Is not impossible but requires more thought out planning an part collecting. All the above part categories listed fall into place once you choose your manifold turbo combination. The main fitment issues associated with this car are also directly related with the turbo manifold you choose. You also can contact pharmacis if you are SERIOUS about a quality manifold that eliminates the starter/AC fitment issues.

If you dont know what parts to get and have no idea whatsoever about how to do a setup. DO NOT buy an ebay kit period. If you like to burn money on garbage just give it to me If you want to make good use of it. Go to the thread list at the end of this post and look at the various types of setups people have done to get an idea of what youre up against!
If you don't and run an evo3/2g manifold turbo combo you'll have to deal with a tight fit with the downpipe near the AC compressor/ lines. Choose an external wastegate with the proper spring size for your set power goals as well.

If you run an evo8 manifold turbo combo you'll need an angled RRE exhaust manifold flange, and you might need to grind the compressor next to the starter as well. Find a good boost controller as well.

After thats done you need to decide on the most logical path for your piping. If you just want it simple. Just buy some stock evo IC pipes, with couplers if possible. If you decide to run an ebay piping kit or buy higher quality generic aluminum pipes, the less couplers the better, the less 90* elbows the better. Once you lay out your pipeline a boostleak test is paramount. I cant stress the value of a boost leak test enough. Don't bother tuning in any sort of way until you have done one. Read here for a 1st hand experience of how your whole project WILL FAIL if you don't run a BLT(<<< ) and resolve all leaks found!!!!!!

You'll need positive pressure signal only to the wastegate.
You'll want positive and negative signal for the boost gauge
You'll need negative vacuum for the bov.

I just T the vacuum source to the bov for the boost gauge. You can use a vacuum manifold as well

Again, once the installs complete. fire it up and check for fluids leaking exhaust leaking close to the turbo especially. Once you're good to go, do some logging during idle this time and see where you can improve weak spots in the tune. You can slowly work boost into your datalogging sessions, but only in increments… Eventually, you get into WOT from 2~2500rpm up to redline. Making adjustments and to clear ALL knock. Once that is done you can take it to a tuner confident you got the car to the point that the tuner can finish the job without hangups. Granted of course you were picky about who tunes your car. Really why spend tons of time, energy, an resources to pay somebody else to blow it up for you?

a clutch
Bottom line whatever power you add to your car, you'll be over the maximum tq limit of your stock clutch. So purchasing a clutch kit(pressure plate, disk) will be needed. A lightwieght flywheel is optional really. If you don't, your car can NEVER achieve its potential power output only because your overworked clutch wont be able to hold on to all that extra tq your new setup was developing. Here's a few well known names that make them for us:

ACT
Fidanza
Exedy
Clutchmasters
Exedy
SPEC

Now if you're still feelin a little thick on something which you should, i know i would but id also be lickin my chops in anticipation for more info. Here's links to various turbo builds over the years:

New School builds - post ecuflash as chronologically as possible in progress/or completed still
12'
Pale Horse's Turbo Build
Marc's Turbo Build
yahh's Turbo Build 2.0
11'
DuctTapeProdigy's Turbo Build
Willz's Slowwww Turbo Build
Drewski's 16g build, a long term process
10'
Smed112233's Turbo Build
Steadly's turbo talk
TURBO SETUP
Nitai3g's Turbo talk/build
09'
Cloud's GS-T for 2009
How to: Mitsu style turbo setup-extremely Simplified
03 gst FINALLY complete!
Whitley's Boosting
Finally Goin FI!
Turbo Setup #2
MALACHI'S turbo build, finally (with evo DOHC)
08'
Winter 2007-2008 progress ... 56k warning
noricereclips's turbo talk
Costags88's turbo thread
ace79603 progress thread for boost
Virtuaframax Turbo Project
cfeyrhis' turbo build
07'
Fejery's turbo thread
awalp's turbo build =]
My winter 06-07 project 90% done :)
So i started....
Cloud's built SOHC 4g64 project
My Project: Summer 2007 DOHC Build
Benz01GS's Turbo project starts...
gt3582r turbo kit process

Old School builds - pre ecuflash as chronologically as possible
Mods - 2007
06'
messing with evo 8 gear
05'

My New Project
Fall '05 Project
Cloud's turbo project
04'
My Engine Rebuild Thread - Started 12/14/04

[Ithinkyou]

A new motor
This maybe the point of no return. Or an opportunity to really enjoy your car. Either way being that its 2010 and the nevest RS/GS you can get your hands on would be 5 years old. Motor longevity will most likely be an issue especially once the turbo is on an the cars running. If you’ve enjoyed the education of tuning and you want to continue, here’s where your commitment is really tested financially. The cast pistons are the weak point of the 3g. If you choose not to fortify the bottom end, be prepared to… eventually. One mistake in your tune and a piston will chip in ring-land. The ring land refers to the area of metal on the piston between the top ring groove, the top of the piston and the bottom of the valve relief. Our stock pistons have little to no reliefs so it just refers to the metal between the top of the piston and the top ring groove. This is the weakest part of the piston because its where the metal is the thinnest. Typically if your engine gets a good amount of detonation (knock) the piston tends to chip/crack in the ring land area. Hence the need for built internals for more power.

Ill try an add more detail later


A DOHC evo/kia head
Theres tons of info in our FI and Performance sections on this. But this can be a fairly straightforward install. Im not gonna get into a how to or some shit like that. Thats not really the purpose of this thread. What the purpose IS.... is to collect numerous good links of current or completed DOHC swaps. Fitment issues, parts info, all that shit, right here. If you cant or refuse to read you fail!! If you do read enough of these, the insight is there, the creativity is there. You know if you posess enough experience/knowledge to tackle this or not... Then GO FOR IT!
here you go, not listed in any priority:
In progress
yahh's 4g63 Head swap and turbo build
Ithinkyou's dohc build
Possible DOHC build coming up
completed
My full turbo build ardy/pharmacis build - good one
DNS-EN's 'Fact filled to Faggotry in 3 pages' Thread - hes old school awol but still a good build
Completed EVO Swap...on STOCK ECU!
ozzys evo swap
MALACHI'S turbo build, finally (with evo DOHC)
support info
DOHC Head Swap Parts List
DOHC head and compression
DOHC head swap information...finally
evo8 head swap question
bits n pieces of info
what did you use? EVO SWAP
EVO Head/Turbo Clearance Option #2
There are more links out there but if youve read this far, ive searched a ton of info for you already you can use the search button a lil

[Ithinkyou]

2Byte mod
NOTE:

If you currently don't have the 3D MUT TABLE installed in your ROM ID's XML file in ECUFLash (you may be using 1D tables for EACH 2byte mod location), download the attached file and save it onto your computer. Open it with NOTEPAD. Instructions on how to install it are inside the file.

DOWNLOAD 3D MUT TABLE HERE!


94170008
2byte load
MUT 00 = 895C
MUT 01 = 895D

2byte RPM
MUT 02 = 893A
MUT 03 = 893B

2byte AirFlow
MUT 04 = 89BA
MUT 05 = 89BB

MUT 3D TABLE ADDRESS = 38060
94170014
2byte load
MUT 00 = 895C
MUT 01 = 895D

2byte RPM
MUT 02 = 893A
MUT 03 = 893B

2byte AirFlow
MUT 04 = 89BA
MUT 05 = 89BB

MUT 3D TABLE ADDRESS = 38158

94170015
2byte load
MUT 00 = 895C
MUT 01 = 895D

2byte RPM
MUT 02 = 893A
MUT 03 = 893B

2byte AirFlow
MUT 04 = 89BA
MUT 05 = 89BB

MUT 3D TABLE ADDRESS = 38158


ECU-based Direct Boost Control for the Evo8 ecu swapped RS/GS 3g

1) These instructions and endian settings are now written to work only with ECUFlash 1.31+!!
2) Included the scalings needed to setup direct boost control using an OMNI 4-bar MAP sensor.
3) The tables names to reflect the latest understanding of the boost control system.
4) Adapted to benefit a sohc/dohc 3g


Background

This is a "how-to" on modifying your ROM to allow ECU-based direct boost control. This boost control system works exactly in the same way as stock except that:

1) The ECU controls boost directly rather than load.
2) There is now a 1-D table that controls how often the ECU checks/adjusts the boost.

The system works as follows

1) A JDM MAP sensor or OMNI4Bar Map sensor is needed for boost measurement/control.
2) a 3 port solenoid, as i highly doubt a restrictor pill would be needed by then ill look into it more to know for certain:
I think I may have found a new 3port boost solenoid...that comes on every EVO - evolutionm.net
Installing GM 3 Port Boost Solenoid - evolutionm.net
3) The system keys off of absolute pressure rather than gauge pressure. This maybe confusing, but there is no way around it.
4) Instead of BDEL, BCLO, and TBEC tables, there are now "Baseline Boost", "Boost Adder", and "Boost Error Correction" tables. These tables are in psia.

Caveats

The stock boost control system was designed to have an operational upper limit on WGDC (100%) that would prevent boost overshoot. Using this system with modified restrictor pills removes that limitation, and improper tuning of the system can lead to strong boost overshoot conditions. I am not responsible if you blow up your motor.

Performing the ROM and logging mods

Several definitions and scalings need to be added to the ECUFlash XML file and the "base" XML file for your ROM. After those definitions are added, then its necessary to open your ROM in ECUFlash and perform some changes to some of the new items. After that, its necessary to add a new entry into your EvoScan data.xml file. If you are not comfortable doing these mods, it may be best to have someone do it for you.

Detailed ROM and EvoScan mods

A JDM MAP sensor or an OMNI 4-bar MAP sensor needs to be installed.
Instructions for installing the JDM MAP sensor are in this thread.

Instructions for installing the OMNI 4-bar MAP sensor are in this thread.

Both are pretty straightforward with our car, pull the 3g map out the hole, put the new one in its place

After the MAP sensor is installed and working, perform the mods described below. These instructions cover required modifications to ECUFlash XML files, your EvoScan "Data.xml" file, and your ROM file. I've covered only stock 94170015 mods since thats probably gonna be the most common for a 3g.


NOTE: be sure to change all:
"$"'s to "<"'s
"@"'s to ">"'s

----- (don't add the "-----")
$table name="Variable for Boost Control" category="Turbo" address="1ee8e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@

$table name="SHLR->SHLL for EBC" category="Turbo" address="1ec82" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@

$table name="Boost Error RAM Addr" category="Turbo" address="1ee82" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@

$table name="Boost Error RAM Addr in Boost Error Table" category="Turbo" address="69a8" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@

$table name="WGDC Correction interval #1 (High Gear Range)" category="Turbo" address="1a54" type="1D" level="1" scaling="uint16"/@

$table name="WGDC Correction interval #2 (Low Gear Range)" category="Turbo" address="1a56" type="1D" level="1" scaling="uint16"/@

$table name="Boost Error Correction" category="Turbo" address="4488" type="2D" level="1" scaling="OffsetWGDC"@
$table name="Boost Error" elements="17" type="Y Axis" address="69ac" elements="17" scaling="BoostErrorPsi"/@
$/table@

$table name="Boost Adder" category="Turbo" address="1a70" type="1D" level="1" scaling="psia16"/@

$table name="Base Boost #1 (High Gear Range)" category="Turbo" address="44f8" type="2D" level="1" scaling="psia8"@
$table name="RPM" address="6982" elements="16" type="Y Axis" scaling="RPM"/@
$/table@

$table name="Base Boost #4 (Low Gear Range)" category="Turbo" address="453a" type="2D" level="1" scaling="psia8"@
$table name="RPM" address="6982" elements="16" type="Y Axis" scaling="RPM"/@
$/table@

$table name="MUT8A Use for Boost Error" category="MUT" address="38382" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@

$table name="MUT8B Use for WGDC Correction" category="MUT" address="38386" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/@
-----

Below are scalings that need to be added to your ECUFlash 94170014.xml or 94170015.xml file. There are two sets of scalings. One set is for the JDM 3-bar, and the other is for the OMNI 4-bar. USE ONLY THE SCALINGS FOR YOUR SENSOR.

JDM 3-bar only
----- (don't add the "-----")
$scaling name="BoostErrorPsi" units="psi" toexpr="(x-128)/(8*5.18)" frexpr="x*8*5.18+128" format="%.1f" min="-3.1" max="3.1" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="OffsetWGDC" units="WGDC Change" toexpr="(x-128)/2" frexpr="x*2+128" format="%.1f" min="-64" max="63.5" inc="0.5" storagetype="uint8" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="psia8" units="psia" toexpr="x/(5.18*2)" frexpr="x*(2*5.18)" format="%.1f" min="0" max="24.6" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint8" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="psia16" units="psia" toexpr="x/(5.18*2)" frexpr="x*(2*5.18)" format="%.1f" min="0" max="32" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/@
-----

OMNI 4-bar only
----- (don't add the "-----")
$scaling name="BoostErrorPsi" units="psi" toexpr="(x-128)/(8*4.23)" frexpr="x*8*4.23+128" format="%.1f" min="-3.8" max="3.8" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="OffsetWGDC" units="WGDC Change" toexpr="(x-128)/2" frexpr="x*2+128" format="%.1f" min="-64" max="63.5" inc="0.5" storagetype="uint8" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="psia16" units="psia" toexpr="x/(4.23*2)" frexpr="x*(2*4.23)" format="%.1f" min="0" max="32" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/@
$scaling name="psia8" units="psia" toexpr="x/(4.23*2)" frexpr="x*(2*4.23)" format="%.1f" min="0" max="30.1" inc="0.1" storagetype="uint8" endian="big"/@
-----

Instructions for ECUFlash

Variable for boost control: Stock will read 8962. Change it to 890A. The table is in hex format, so you will have to enter it as 0x890A

SHLR->SHLL for EBC: Stock will read 4A01. Change it to 4A00 (enter it as 0x....)

The "Boost Error RAM Address" and "Boost Error RAM Address in Boost Error Table" will both read: 883E. Change both to 8026 (again, you'll need to enter it as 0x....)

WGDC Correction Interval: Use table #1. Table #2 is for when the vehicle speed exceeds the boost limiting speed. Set the value anywhere from 2 to 10. Each unit is approx 0.08 to 0.1 sec. I recommend using a value of 1 to 5.

Boost Error Correction: This is equivalent to the TBEC table. Use the values I list below as a starting point. The upper right value should be set to zero, otherwise, significant boost overshoot may occur.

Boost Adder: This is equivalent to the BCLO table. The units are psi. As a first step. I recommend setting it to your local atmospheric pressure.

Baseline Boost tables: These are equivalent to the BDEL tables. Max possible value is 24.6 psi.

Change MUT8A will read 88EB. Change it to 8027 (again enter it as 0x....)

Change MUT8B will read 8D49. Change it to 8CD9 (again enter it as 0x....)

Save the ROM file and upload it to your ECU. Then go to the instructions in the third post for setting up EvoScan and tuning the system.

Instructions for EvoScan

Add the following entry to your EvoScan "Data.xml" file:

-----
$DataListItem DataLog="Y" Color="" Display="Boost Error" LogReference="BoostError" RequestID="8A" Eval="0.0241*x-3.087" Unit="psi" MetricEval="" MetricUnit="" ResponseBytes="1" GaugeMin="-5" GaugeMax="5" ChartMin="-5" ChartMax="5" ScalingFactor="1" Notes=""/@
$DataListItem DataLog="Y" Color="" Display="WGDC Correction" LogReference="WGDCCorr" RequestID="8B" Eval="0.5*x-64" Unit="WGDC%" MetricEval="" MetricUnit="" ResponseBytes="1" GaugeMin="-50" GaugeMax="50" ChartMin="-50" ChartMax="50" ScalingFactor="1" Notes=""/@
-----

Save the Data.xml file.


The New Tuning Tables

Once the ROM mods are complete, open your ROM in ECUFlash. In addition to the familiar BDEL, BCLO, and TBEC tables, there are now "Baseline Boost", "Boost Adder", and "Boost Error Correction" tables. You'll no longer be making any changes to the BDEL, BCLO, or TBEC tables. Instead all boost tuning will take place with the new tables. The values are in psi. And you will continue to use the Baseline WGDC tables as well.

This boost control system keys off of absolute pressure. Most people are used to thinking of boost in terms of gauge pressure.

Absolute pressure = gauge pressure + atmospheric pressure.

The easiest way to do the initial tuning will be to decide on your target boost levels in gauge pressure, and then add your local atmospheric pressure to those values. Then the baseline boost and boost adder must add up to those values. If you intend to keep the peak boost at or below 24.6 psi, then the easiest way to tune will be to set the Boost Adder to your local atmospheric pressure, and then set the baseline boost table to your target gauge boost pressure values. Hope that makes sense.

Here's an ideal example. If someone is living at sea level, and the desired peak boost is 24 psi, then:

- set Boost Adder = 14.7 psi
- set Baseline Boost to your boost curve.

Now a less ideal example. If someone is living at 2000 ft, then atmospheric pressure is approx 13.7 psi. If the desired peak boost as measured by your boost gauge is 27 psi, then

Baseline Boost + Boost Adder must sum to 13.7 psi + 27 psi = 40.7 psi.

The Baseline table maxes out at 24.6 psi (just like BDEL maxes out at 159.1), so for this example, one possible solution would be to set the peak value in the Baseline Boost table to 24.6 psi, and then set the Boost Adder to 40.7 - 24.6 = 16.1 psi. Hope that's a useful example. There are three Baseline Boost tables just as there are three BDEL tables, but really only table #1 needs adjusting.


Tuning Recommendations

I've been getting quite a few questions about effectively tuning the direct boost control system, so I'll describe how the boost control system works and recommend a systematic set of steps for tuning to your desired boost curve.


How the System Works

The boost control system can be thought of as consisting of two parts. The first is the baseline WGDC settings, which are called the Max WGDC tables in ECUFlash. They infact are not "max" values. After the system is tuned properly, the ECU will be able to run WGDC values that are higher or lower than the "max" WDGC table values (up to 100%). I prefer to call these tables "baseline" WGDC (BWGDC) tables because they truly are baseline values that the ECU will start with as it tries to fine-tune the boost when driving.

The second part of the system is the feedback loop. The feedback loop is designed to make small, incremental adjustments to the WGDC to maintain the desired boost. At specified intervals, it compares the actual boost to the target boost, and raises or lowers the *entire* BWGDC curve to push the boost back to the target value. The details on how this feedback system works are important to understand how to tune and interpret the data that are logged. The feedback system is a cumulative correction. The best way to explain how it works is by example.

The "WGDC change" values in the BEC table represent only *incremental* changes to the *total WGDCC*. Say for instance that you are using the following BEC table:

-3.1 0
-2.0 0
-1.4 0
-1.2 2
-1.0 2
-0.8 1.5
-0.5 1
-0.3 0.5
0 0
0.3 -0.5
0.5 -1
0.8 -1.5
1.0 -2
1.2 -3
1.9 -8
2.5 -14
3.1 -18

Now say that at some point during a WOT run, the BoostError is -1 psi. The ECU would see a value of -1 psi, and then raise the entire BWGDC curve by 2%. Now say that the ECU looks again and still sees -1 psi. The ECU would then increase the BWGDC curve by another 2%. When the ECU looks again, say it once more sees -1 psi. The ECU would raise the entire BWGDC curve by another 2%. At this point, the entire BWGDC curve has been raised by 6%. When the ECU looks again, lets say that it now sees a BoostError of 0 psi. At this point, the ECU says the boost is right on the money, so it leaves the BWGDC curve raised up by 6%. If the BoostError stays at 0 psi for the remainder of the WOT run, then the ECU will leave the curve raised up by 6% for the entire run. For example though, say at some point later in the run, the ECU sees a BoostError of +0.5 psi. It would then lower the BWGDC by -1%, so the total elevation of the curve would be +5%. If the ECU looks again and sees a BoostError of 0 psi, then it will leave the BWGDC curve at an elevation of +5%. It goes on and on like this. I think its very useful to think of it as a cummulative raising/lowering of the entire curve.

So it can be seen that the WGDCC is a cummulative term over time. Because of this, the values that go into the BEC table should be smaller as the correction interval is reduced. This is because as the correction interval becomes smaller, the ECU looks at the BoostError more often and can make many more additions and subtractions to the WGDCC. A small interval with large BEC table values will cause the boost to oscillate back and forth across the target value.


Tuning Recommendations

The key to obtaining the exact desired boost curve is to first adjust BWGDC tables without the feedback loop runing.

Step 1
Zero out the right hand side of the BEC table as shown in the figure below (figure has not yet been added). This will prevent the ECU from feedback loop from making changes to the WGDC.

Step 2
Set the BWGDC (MWGDC) tables to conservative values. Reduce all the values in your current tables by 15. This will allow you to start tuning with conservatively low boost values.

Step 3
Start tuning the BWGDC tables until the actual boost levels are as close as possible to your target boost levels. You'll need to log boost and the BoostError. You'll need to go WOT from approx 2000 rpm to 7000 rpm (or higher if you want). To tune successfully, I recommend running on the same section of road. Plan on spending an hour or so making repeated runs with BWGDC adjustments between runs. Third gear is a good gear for this tuning. Second gear is too short, and 4th gear is impractical.

Step 4
Decide on a correction interval to use. The best results using an interval of "1" along with very small change values in the BEC table.

Step 5
Reactivate the feedback loop by inserting WGDC change values into the right side of the BEC table. It will only work well if you've gone through the BWGDC tuning procedure. It should work well for most people, but you are welcome to try to fine-tune it yourself. That's what this whole forum is about, eh. :-) If you decide to make up your own BEC table, the most important thing to watch is the BoostError. This will tell you how far you are from your target boost value. The WGDCC is of secondary importance.

My current BEC table that is designed to work with a correction interval of "1"


Below are results from this evenings runs. I'm now able to get almost the exact same boost in 2nd through 6th gear, and I'll get the same boost regardless of weather conditions, etc. Note that my boost curve looks almost like an MBC curve, but that is by design. Within the limits of what boost the turbo and WG can maintain, any boost curve is possible. An example of a more customized boost curve is Pd1's boost curve. Check it out below. It still needs some fine-tuning, but you can see that he's holding a nearly flat 27 psi of boost from 3500-5500 rpm, and then rapidly tapering down to about 21 psi by 6000 rpm.

2nd gear run


3rd gear run


4th gear run


Pd1's boost curve

Speed Density

scheides tested, ecu-guru approved! Still, be careful.
Also, it may (and likely will) change, I'll try and bump the thread with 'updated' as I do so...this is a work in progress!

Converting your evo8 to speed density is a lot easier than you might think! With the right tools, some time, and careful steps you'll be running MAF-Free in no time! I'll be using a lot of hyperlinks for reference points on material previously covered elsewhere. Make no mistake, speed density running on the stock ecu is a culmination of years worth of work by a lot of people around the world. Don't forget to thank them once you get it running properly: jcbanks, mrfred, JohnBradley, tephra, phenem, recompile, l2r99gst...to name a few.

First off, there's some hardware required. I HIGHLY recommend getting these going on your existing rom so you have a known good rom to easily flash back to while you are getting speed density going (in case you run into trouble and simply need to drive the car). Otherwise, swap the hardware below and read on!

Hardware Required:

* Uprated MAP sensor: evoX 3.3bar or Omnipower 4.0 bar
* Intake Air Temp sensor: GM IAT
* Wideband O2 sensor: several are available, I use the Innovate LC-1 wired into the ecu



Step #1: A good running car with a safe tune on it.
Do a boost leak test, have a spare set of spark plugs handy (your existing ones may get fowled during this conversion process), fresh fluids, known-good boost levels, etc. If you car is in disrepair, take care of maintenance items before attempting this conversion; you will only be making it harder on yourself!

Step #2: Get a pre-patched rom from tephra/phenem:
TephraMod V7
I used post #2, option 5, here's the direct link: Download

I used tephra v7 because it has all of the latest and greatest hacks in it, and this pre-patched rom has a LOT of work behind it to make what you're about to do much easier! Unpack the .zip file, put the 96531706-TephraMod-phenem-sd.bin file in a new folder somewhere called SpeedDensity. Put TephraMOD-96531706-v7.xml in C:\Program Files\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\evo\ and rename it 96531706.xml

Now launch ecuflash. Open the 96531706-TephraMod-phenem-sd.bin, make sure you can see some of the tables and that all is well. Hit save and call it 96531706-myspecialname-test1.bin (keep the original untouched so you have a local backup copy). Then load your existing rom off of your car or open a previously saved copy. You're ready for the dirty work.

Step 2a: light throttle cruise jitter (this may go away some day)
There is a very small issue with the existing speed density implementation that causes an ever-so-slight jitter while cruising around 2000-2500rpm. The final fix is still up in the air, but for now, I'm recommending mrfred's fix#2 since I've had the best luck with it. The XML is included in the pre-packaged rom, so simply find Fix2 or Fix3 under 'Speed Density Programming' and adjust the values per the mini directions.

* Fix2: change 112 to 0
* Fix3: change 8909 to 0009




Step 3: Copy *most* of the tables over from your old rom to the new rom.
I say *most* because there are some things set in this new rom that you're not going to want to mess with. The XML file that comes with these pre-patched roms does a good job detailing the periphery bits, so be careful which ones you copy over, and be careful which values you copy over in the MUT table. The ones that are key to getting this rom up and running on your car:

* High/Low Octane Fuel and Timing tables (including rpm and load scaling values)
* Injector scaling/latancy tables
* Boost contrl/boost limit tables
* MAF scaling (yes this does still have an effect)
* MAP sensor scaling (scaling and xml here and here if you don't have this running already)
* Immobilizer (or immob disable...if you car won't fire at all, this would be why)
* ...
* ...(any other suggestions?)



NOTE: This rom comes with BIG maps enabled. This is a mixed blessing; you now have a lot more resolution when tuning, but you'll have to get your existing table translated into big maps. A GREAT tool for this is this translator but don't just plug values in blindly, carefully double-check several rpm vs load cells and make sure they line up.


Step 3a, idle tables:
I left all of the stock values, save for desired idle RPM alone. To keep things simple, consider doing the same on your car, as SD idles amazingly well, even on a highly modified engine. You did a boost leak test, right?

Step 3b, MAP Sensor Selection:
This rom has no scaling tables for the MAP sensor and is setup for the JDM/EvoX 3bar MAP sensor by default. If you are using a different MAP sensor, you need to change the scaling on a few tables from 'PSIa8 JDM3barMAP' to 'PSIa8 OMNI4barMAP', or the preset for your specific MAP sensor. Right-click on the map/table in the left column of EcuFlash and select Edit, and pick the appropriate scaling from the drop-down menu.

* Alternate Boost Desired Engine 'PSI' : PSIa8 JDM3barMAP -> PSIa8 OMNI4barMAP
* Boost Error Correction (PSI) : BoostErrorPsi JDM3barMAP -> BoostErrorPsi OMNI4barMAP
* Boost Desired Engine 'PSI' : PSIa8 JDM3barMAP -> PSIa8 OMNI4barMAP
* Boost Adder (PSI) : PSIa16 JDM3barMAP -> PSIa16 OMNI4barMAP


NOTE: I tried keeping XML editing out of this post, but for now, it needs to be done if you are using anything other than the JDM/EvoX 3.3 bar map sensor. There are different scalings for MAP kPa based on which sensor you use. You can choose to use these or not. I HIGHLY recommend updating the MAP kPa scaling in c:\Program Files\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\evo\96531706 .xml based on mr. fred's values here: http://forums.evolutionm.net/6744341-post2.html

Step Four, let's talk speed density!
There are two tables that will get a lot of your attention: SD MAP Sensor VE and SD RPM VE. These tables correlate pressure and speed with engine load (and thus fuel), and should be started at a 1:1 ratio like so:




Step 4a: SD RPM VE Table
The first table to play with will be SD RPM VE. (side note, starting here on a warm car may be advantagous). Start your car, leave it in neutral. Log wideband AFR and narrowband o2 feedback. If it is running extremely rich (like mine was), adjust values in the SD RPM VE table down in 5-10% increments until feedback is near zero and AFR is in the 14.7 range. Smooth the table from idle rpm areas up to boost areas (which are likely going to be just over 100%).

Once you have your idle or sub-2000rpm area dialed in and happy, push the throttle a bit and rev the engine up to 2500, 3000, and maybe 3500rpm and continue to monitor o2 feedback and wideband AFR.

As you do this process, got any check engine/service engine lights? Address them now. Once you drive the car on speed density you'll never wanna go back to a MAF

Step 4b: SD MAP VE Table
Again, log wideband AFR and narrowband o2 feedback. Put the car in gear, take off, in first, then grab second or maybe third gear. The car should drive pretty well with *feather* light throttle. NO BOOST! Now, tip in throttle a bit, maybe 25-35%, just enough to bring the car out of vacuum, mabye like 0-5psi. If your car is like mine, it will lean out a bit in this load range, and you'll need to lower the load% values that correlate to ~31-61kpa a bit to bring AFRs in line. I dropped mine about 8-10% for these light load cruising areas.

Step 4c: drive the car, no boost!
If your car is going to stay in closed loop (like mine and most cars are) drive the car around with no boost. Take this time to admire how awesomely smooth speed density makes the car, and how thankful you are to everyone mentioned above and all of their hard work for making your evo drive so nicely. Watch your AFRs, o2 feedback, and LTFT Mid. I spent a few days driving back and forth to work tweaking MAP VE and RPM VE to get the car to cold start nicely, drive nicely, and keep LTFT's in check. This is not unlike dialing in a new set of injectors, if your LTFT is a bit negative, lower the appropriate RPM VE and/or raise your MAP VE values a few % at a time to bring them back in line. If the LTFT is positive, raise RPM VE and/or lower MAP VE.
(can someone double check this for me? pretty sure this is how I remember it!)


Step 5: BOOST!
If you're smart, you will now turn down your boost. I started at wastegate pressure. Roll on the throttle, get the car into the main powerband area (typically 4000-6000rpm) and if you can, watch wideband AFR as you do this. You may now have to de-linearize the MAP VE and RPM VE tables. I started by bumping the top two values in MAP VE table up by about 15% per some existing tables that were posted and it landed me very near the desired AFR at WOT. Lowering and smoothing the RPM VE table in the 4000-8000rpm range dialed it in perfect. NOTE: Don't expect the values in your map to represent the actual desired AFR values, they are correlated but not equal.

Once you've verified that AFR is safe, time to turn the boost back up to where it was previously tuned at. Doing WOT pulls from low rpm, you want your timing numbers to line up with your previous tune. You can be as precise or rough as you like here, depending on what you have in mind. If you'd like to get your car running perfectly on your previous tune, you need to tweak the MAP VE and RPM VE tables until your car runs like it did when running the MAF. If you are about to do a full tune on the car, you can tweak the values a bit to make them smooth, and then simply begin tuning the timing table.

If you began with a tuned rom, chances are your VE tables may end up looking somewhat similar to mine:


Tuning notes from Aaron@EnglishRacing:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBradley View Post
It should be pointed out that as we play with the MAPVE and RPMVE the load will change for a given boost level. This can be used to play with the resolution if not on a V7 map.

i.e.- 29psi can be 300 load (depending on how long you take to play with it) to correlate to Kpa

29psi can also be 235 load and have a somewhat funky looking fuel map



Step6: drive the car, log, continue to monitor fuel trims, AFR and knock at WOT
This patch has not 100% proven to me that it is stable in all climate changes once it has been tuned. I'm sure its going to be close, but for now, plan on keeping an eye on things here and there, and if your car hasn't been professionally tuned, consider doing so!


Step 6a: tip-in/low rpm lean-out
A common problem that you may come across is the car wanting to run lean during initial TPS tip-in. For me, this occurred mostly at low rpm (1000-2000) and is induced while either lugging the car in traffic, or leaving from a stop. I found the solution by tweaking two tables: Asynch_vs_TPS (under global fueling) and your Fuel maps (don't forget the alt maps if you're using them). Bumping Asynch_vs_TPS by 10 units across the board is where I ended up, and richening up the AFR in areas around 80 load kpa from 1000-2250 a bit (with smoothing) made a world of difference for me.




Note: at this point, you can UNPLUG YOUR MAF sensor! You don' have to, but if you want to find a different intake setup to eliminate it from your intake tract, go for it!

for more discussion

[Ithinkyou]

AT to MT swap
In progress
Completed
Steadly's turbo talk
8G Auto to Manual Conversion DONE! **UPDATED 02/03/06** - The Galant Center
Support info
bits n pieces of info

3g MT to evo8 MT
this is evo transmission swap with the Tcase tail blocked off
In progress
Completed
Support info
bits n pieces of info

evo8 MT awd
Theres now cruuently 4 documented complete and 3 in progress, ive heard of one other one but im about facts, and detest heresay heres some links if somehow you havent seen em yet.
In progress
Ithinkyou's dohc build
AWD 2010
My Full Build
Completed
Winter 2007-2008 progress ... 56k warning
Support info
bits n pieces of info

3g MT to 4cyl RWD
Honestly id like to see it done on our cars cuz i know it be a good drag car. Shit maybe a good drifter too! hahaha
In progress
Completed
Support info
bits n pieces of info


All the above is more than enough info an linkage to get you a very clear picture of what you car needs to be boosted, and/or potentially could be. Im hoping this thread will be the beginning of the end of the dreaded flood of noob questions weve been inundated with in the last couple years:rolleyes2: For those that get it now after sifting though all this reading i wish you nothin but the best luck.

Props out to:
repforeno - got the idea form his similar gt thread
vteckiller - input, pointed me towards info
steadly2004 - pointed me towards info
BWracing00 - pointed me towards info

[2000RS-Turbo]

You spend to much time on here helping out noobs go work on your car!

[2000RS-Turbo]

I wonder whos doing the RWD swap with the chevy tranny?

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by 2000RS-Turbo

You spend to much time on here helping out noobs go

I do, but even still while im still here i gonna find good ways to contribute to the long term quality of this sub forum

Originally Posted by 2000RS-Turbo

work on your car!

I will

Originally Posted by 2000RS-Turbo

I wonder whos doing the RWD swap with the chevy tranny?

!!!chop chop!!! get to work sucka!!!

[bwracing00]

this is great info hopefully we get people to stop asking all these dumb questions.

[darkmind0869]

Originally Posted by 2000RS-Turbo

I wonder whos doing the RWD swap with the chevy tranny?

its actually been done. saw a white 3g at a muscle car show with a small block 350 and matching tranny. thing was a BEAST

[2000RS-Turbo]

I saw a video of that car but were talking about a 4g64 motor with chevy tranny.

[ace79603]

Where was this three years ago when I started reading about turboing my car? Lol

[yanksball14]

very nicely done.

[03Quicksilver3G]

Originally Posted by bwracing00

this is great info hopefully we get people to stop asking all these dumb questions.

Great write up Ithinkyou

[00eclipseGS18]

nice write-up, the links for boost leak tests did not work for me...? idk about anyone else.

[Ithinkyou]

Originally Posted by 00eclipseGS18

nice write-up, the links for boost leak tests did not work for me...? idk about anyone else.

Fixed! The one i found was deleted or somethin Added more links!

[CostaGS88]

Ithinkyou, you never fail to amaze me. Great job

[VTEC KILLER]

Nice writeup, glad I could help.

[Ithinkyou]

added more

if anybody has info on motor tech. Piston, rod, crank combos an such. IE how slava was working on a 2.2L to rev high. Or now theres 2.4 longrod setups around that rev high. I want to document that info as well. So if you got any links or wahtever send a pm

[Nitai3G]

Your the man!!! Dude if all this was posted before i started my build, you would have saved me weeks of sleepless nights..:P Hope all you new folks find this guy and give him a big hug!! Because hes doing all this hard work for you! so you don't have to ask so many question that have been answered a bazillion times.

[Ithinkyou]

Added how to dial in the injectors, in the injector section

[jstewart92]

beautiful thread.

[ball5out]

Awesome. Now ithinkyou is helping me build my car. I live close by

[Corvo]

what about the guys who want to boost and keep their AT?

[Drewski0523]

Originally Posted by Corvo

what about the guys who want to boost and keep their AT?

Search man. There was one guy who just did it and another in the middle of it. A v6 discussion just started about it.

[Corvo]

Hey Drewski you were actually the next person i was going to talk to about this seeing as your pre-boost build looked great and you mentioned to me you were going to start working on boosting your car. Did you decide to go manual for boost or are you staying AT? I have been looking on boosting with an AT, but so far nothing on what internals i need to consider outside the evo8 head and a dual ecu....fuel pump/injectors stuff like that of course I find the thread for that stuff. It's just trying to figure out if I need to go forged pistons, billeted camshafts, and trying to see if I can put a pressure plate if anything in the transmission. Just a complete mess of what I'm trying to accomplish right now.

[Drewski0523]

It's the exact same setup for manual and auto. The only difference is you need to run dual ECU's for an auto build. I'm swapping to a manual before I do boost. The stock engine internals internals are the same for auto and manual trans and can withstand low boost. Look up Masta560's build he did an auto build

[Ithinkyou]

build links/info links updated

[yahh]

Good job man, thank you for everything you do for the community!

[Drewski0523]

Originally Posted by yahh

Good job man, thank you for everything you do for the community!

awesome work