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cloud's build

24K views 176 replies 31 participants last post by  CloudINC00 
#1 · (Edited)
I already have a Titanium Pearl 03 GS but I've always wanted a convertible. I've been searching on craigslist for one and I finally got one (really cheap too).

Main reason I got it was that it fit the conditions I needed it to be: convertible, manual, and 4 cyl. The plan is to build it the right way unlike my old GS (being honest here). First I have to take care of the small issues. This thread will follow the progress of this car with the most recent photos on the first post and more progress as it happens.

Parts list:
Turbo components:
*BEP 4-bolt DSM flanged 47-trim t04b turbo
*Internal 38mm wastegate
*Same-side FMIC
*2.5" mild-steel intercooler piping
*2.0" mild-steel intercooler piping
*T-bolt clamps
*3-ply couplers
*Greddy Type-S BOV (with non Greddy blue top)

Intake/exhaust components:
*DSM turbo exhaust manifold with chrome plated heat shield
*2.5" downpipe flanged and flex-piped with internal wastegate dump
*3" full exhaust + 2 resonators and a muffler (low rumble)
*60mm GT throttle body

Fuel/tuning components:
*440cc WRX injectors
*EVO fuel rail
*EVO fuel pressure regulator
*EVO fuel pump
*AEM electronic boost controller (TRU-BOOST)
*AEM wideband (UEGO)
*Tactrix cable w/OpenECU software for EVOs
*2003 EVO 8 ECU

SOHC head components:
Parts and services performed on this head:
*rpw 272/272 stage 3 turbo cam
*rpw titanium valve springs
*new retainers
*new valve guide bushings
*ported and polished intake and exhaust ports
*back cut exhaust valves
*5 angle valve job

Cooling/oil:
*2 Zirgo slim radiator fans as push fans
*OBX radiator hoses
*-4an SS turbo oil feed line
*-10an SS turbo oil drain line
*oil pan with -10an bung
*oil sandwich plate

Suspension:
*Progress lowering springs
*MEGAN Front upper strut bar
*Polyurethane motor mounts
*Full Prothane suspension bushing kit
*EVO 8 wheels

etc:
*Eagle vacuum manifold
*Weight reduction: AC/lines delete, heater core/lines delete, misc parts delete
*Optima red-top relocated to the trunk with kill switch (making it legal for the drag strip)

Visual:
*Tinted headlights/corners/reverse/3rd brake light
*Tinted tail-lights or TYC black-housing tail-lights
*GT side-skirts
*Red-accent interior lighting
*VIS OEM-style carbon fiber hood
*LED 3rd brake light bought when there was a GB on here.

Audio:
*Head-unit delete: amp only with aux
*Pioneer 3-way 6x9s in the back and 3-ways in the front

Most current photos Feb 2013:





Jan 2013:







Dec 2012:



Sept 2012:







Aug 2012 (When I purchased it):





 
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#2 · (Edited)
Known issues:

*Top doesn't function -fixed
*Power mirrors don't work
*clock and 12v outlet doesn't work -fixed
*Horn doesn't work
*Wheel lock key missing
*Poor wheel fitment (poor choice in offset and tire size)
*Blown shocks (I can tell they put lowering springs on it, shocks blew, then put stock springs back on)
*Poor interior
*Top needs new headliner
*Top in poor condition (needs to be conditioned/treated)
*Evaporator leak
*Rear-view mirror doesn't stay in position anymore

Car is about to hit 200k mile mark with little knowledge about its maintenance (car was repossessed, that's why I got it so cheap). That beating said, I'm going to do as much regular maintenance on it as possible since I'll be pulling the head off anyway. I'll document it all and split it up like a Haynes manual as far as what to do ever ____ number of miles
 
#5 ·
First day I did a simple search and found that flipping the switch under the trunk liner would reset the top and it worked. Proof that the search function still works wonders :)

I also discovered why I had a small leak inside, the evaporator filter is clogged. I have yet to pull out the entire interior for cleaning up (and I'm probably going to put in my old GS's interior in its place b/c its in better condition) to replace the filter.
 
#11 ·
Maybe I'm used to making build threads (like back in the day) where the first post is the "most current" the 2nd is "in progress" and any post after that is progress made. It makes a better quality post in the future for people to search through and feel progress once the project is finished. Besides, I do a lot of updates on different streams (phone, home, work, laptop, etc) it's easier to just reply to myself. If it bothers people then sorry I'll try to keep updates to a minimum. You'll see a lot of posts bring edited since they're just placeholders (majority of info on pg 1 instead of pg 7 of 13 for example)


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 
#28 ·
The plan:

*Get pre-turbo parts installed and tuned (ie: injectors and EVO ECU)
*Put turbo kit on and get a good base flash at a safe 8psi
then I can go one of two ways:
1) Install the build head I have (stage 3 turbo camshaft w/p&p etc) and perform "OEM" rebuild on motor once it hits 200k or
2) sell the head and begin the DOHC swap at 200k miles.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Had a day off to get started on it:

Took most of interior out:


of course the trunk had water in it (there was quite a bit more before I pulled the plugs and vac'd it a bit):


and the sound-deadening material was "dry-rotted" yet very saturated with water (It took no effort to pull it off, it was literally peeling off and sticking to the vac hose when I was cleaning):


I felt like I needed a shower after this:


It looked like it was about to rain so I buttoned it all up:


And now its even more of a 4x4 with the "weight reduction" lol


Looks like the top has a slow leak somewhere unless its all evaporator issues. I'll sit in the car while its raining and try to find leaks. I'll have to find a PN for a full top gasket kit.

I also looked everywhere, and there was no wheel lock key to be found :rant2:. Not to mention I think the original owner jipped me of my amp under the passenger seat! lol

Oh and I picked up some good habits from work (the blue material is a yoga mat, lol):
 
#32 · (Edited)
Got EVO ECU, WRX injectors, and evo fuel rail/FPR put in today. Now going through the long and careful process of dialing them in. So far so good, car runs like stock!









The reason why I choose to go with WRX injectors is because they require no modification to the stock harness and can be modified to 800cc (unmodified 440cc). I have a set of RC injectors (780cc) but I don't want to go through the hassle of wiring in a resistor pack when WRX injectors work just fine (keep it simple, right?). The EVO FPR is also great for boost, same with the rail. After-market FPR don't usually bolt onto the rail, therefore a line is usually needed, which is really prone to leaking (again, keep it simple)
 
#35 ·
I'm waiting on more parts so this morning I decided to do something cosmetic:

remove:


wetsand and clean like a beast:


spray:


Most of the funds are going towards the build, this is a cheap alternative to the look I'm going for as far as show and shine.

Cure for 24h, then clear and cure for another 24h, and repeat (till I'm out of clear lol), rub the heck out of them with rubbing compound, then wax.
 
#36 ·
Off to a good start man. Definitely moving fast on the fix side. With the lights though I hope the night shade lighted up. Wet it looks dark as hell, almost spray paint like. I would have left the red circles covered so the lens is clear over them. However kudos on doing it right :yesway:
 
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