Detailing 101

[HaZal2d0uS]

I originally did this thread for the 2GStratus.org community, but feel that the Club3G community can also benefit from this Everything is just copy/pasted over.
------Lets begin!------

As promised, I've put some time into doing a thread on automotive detailing. Although with my lack of detailing in about the past year I did some things out of order, I'm going to be going through the steps on here in the correct order, which generally just saves you a crapload of time not having to re-work places twice, start over, etc. This was all done at my mothers house while I was helping her move, so all of the equipment was between two houses and I didn't have my lighting sources for some good photos to show what needs correction. Because of that, I will simply be covering wash, clay, wax, glass, polish, interior and not any paint corrections. I was sort of in a rush with doing this, so things look messy...between moving, having to take the car to the shop (in the middle of all this) and everything else it was a long day.

So lets begin, I'll start with just a simple showcase of most of my detailing products. About two years ago I spent a good chunk of money acquiring all of these products because I was intending on dropping out of college and starting my own detailing business, sadly I've found my own niche in Industrial Design and have just been restocking it since. I don't have all of my detailing stuff in the photos, what I know is missing are my pressure washer and lighting, but if I remember correctly I used to have 4 tubs of detailing stuff...but I can't seem for the life of me remember what's missing besides polishing stuff for metals.
While I don't consider myself an expert in detailing I've educated myself thoroughly on the subject and know there's always more to learn. I still keep in touch with my detailing as it's a real passion, and as a result went to the 2011 SEMA Autoshow in Las Vegas. It's now just an expensive hobby.





Onto the dirty R/T! Yes, this is probably the dirtiest it's been in quite a while too...













Washing is fairly straight forward. I use a two-bucket method to remove contaminants into one bucket (this bucket also has a Grit Guard) that's simply water and then the second which is for soap. This just eliminates the probability that you're bringing back dirt and other contaminants to your paint, which is the reason why we're doing all this to begin with! Don't forget to wash your gas cap and door jams! Typically I wash a car twice, you're likely to miss something the first time around and I feel it speeds up the entire process. If you're only planning on washing your car, dry it; otherwise if you're going further don't bother! Pull your car into the garage and start the next steps.









Second step is using clay and removing any additional contaminants that remain. For the Stratus, it's generally worst in the door panel region so plan on spending the most time there. I've clay bar'd my car at least once a year for probably 5 years, if you've never done this expect to spend a lot of time doing it. For me, it took about 2 hours. Something I learned a while back was that you don't need to buy any special "clay bar lubricant" for this step; all you need is a lubricant and you've already used one in the first step. The spray bottle contains mostly water with about a cap-full of car wash soap. The most important part of this step that is crucial is to keep lubricant between the clay and your paint, it will not speed up the process to sparingly use lubricant, I say be excessive! Clean up the leftover mess with a strong exterior cleaner, I used Detailers Pro: All Exterior Cleaner, it's strong enough for an engine bay and will remove anything else you might have missed. I would never suggest putting a buffer to your car if you haven't spent the time clay barring your car, you can get these small contaminants caught in your pads and scratch up the paint worse! Don't do that!











The next step, depending on what process you're doing is to either start your paint correction process or to apply wax to your car. The paint on my car is probably at 80% correction already, so I didn't see the point in spending the extra time and products for this tutorial to show the paint correction process. I just went straight into wax, or in my specific case - sealant. Clean up your compounds and waxes with a different product as you did with your clay bar, you want a water-based spray that won't remove your polish and/or wax; I used Menzerna Top Inspection. Obviously, tape-off your black plastic areas to not harm them all while reducing your clean-up time immensely. And don't leave your buffing pads out of a plastic bag like I did there... After waxing, clean out your pads, I put mine in Detailers Pro: Pad Rejuvenator for a couple hours and then dry them out.











After this, I actually tried something I hadn't done on my car but had been telling others to do if they wanted to. This was to polish my glass. The first two steps are just like before, wash and then clay bar; after those initial steps I used a Diamondite Glass & Plastic. I was very satisfied with the product, though it wasn't really cheap considering I used the entire thing doing all my windows, headlights, fog lights, tail lights, and reverse lights. Have you ever seen glass this clear (remember I hadn't touched the inside yet!)!? In the last photo, the reverse light is the focus, like I said I did things out of order..











Polished VS. Unpolished.


After your glass and final wipe-down it's time to visit your interior! Previously I steam-vacuum'd my car during spring break so it was redundant to do it again considering the mild winter we had this year. For my interior windows I just use your common household glass cleaner; I frankly don't like most common glass cleaners for cars, but that's just my preference. Now I didn't have any this time, but I really recommend Detailer's Pro: Interior Cleaner, I got a sample last summer and absolutely loved it (and gave the rest to Ben/StreetLegal when I detailed his car). For your carpets, I'm typically not shy and remove my front seats from the vehicle and then get the vacuum. You can get everything that's been hiding out-of-sight *yuk!* while also giving your seats a good wipe-down. I've also included a photo from spring break showing what a steam vacuumed carpet should look like for reference.



And your final step, enjoy your finished vehicle and take it somewhere for some nice photos! From previous uses, I expect the sealant to last for 2-3 months, and possibly longer if not driven often. Note: I wasn't able to really spend the time to get a real photoshoot or anything done after this and my camera I was using earlier during the detailing process isn't mine ($800 camera) and the quick photoshoot I did do only got a few nice shots. I've got loads of photos of my car from previous meets I'd include but even though it's the same car, same processes used; I'd like to stick with what was done for this particular occasion.









Hope you all enjoyed this!

If you'd like to employ my services, I'm in central Iowa (Ames) during the school year. Depending on the vehicle, what you want done, and a couple other factors will determine the quoted and final price. I don't work for free, but I do like to help out the car community and I give very acceptable rates for the quality of work that I do. If you'd just like to do your own detailing work, I wish you the best of luck and hope this write-up helps you out!

Currently I've only detailed one persons vehicle on the forums, and that's Ben/StreetLegal. I'd love to add a list to that and have a sort of "customer base" and get even more additional feedback on what I'm doing.

Comments, questions, advice... feel free to leave it

[ccarrillo717]

I don't always detail my car, but when I do its stock looks good and must of taken awhile

[Drewski0523]

Good work man and way to break it down Barney style for those who have no idea of what to do

[soundman98]

your "detailers pro" link doesn't work.

you should also have a autopia.org link for those that want to get crazier, and talk about car detailing more in depth.

reminds me i need to finally send in my autogeek order and someday detail my car..

[Corey16]

This is an excellent write up for those who are wanting to do a fantastic job on detailing their car. This should go into the "How-To's" under "Show", would a moderator make this happen? I think it would be worthy of it in my opinion.
.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by soundman98

your "detailers pro" link doesn't work.

you should also have a autopia.org link for those that want to get crazier, and talk about car detailing more in depth.

reminds me i need to finally send in my autogeek order and someday detail my car..

Thanks soundman, I figure if people want to figure out more they'll be able to find the good websites .. Autopia, detailers world, polished bliss...
I'll fix any broken links when I get off work tonight.

Originally Posted by ccarrillo717

I don't always detail my car, but when I do its stock looks good and must of taken awhile

Car isn't 100% stock it's just not obvious and if you read my project thread you'd understand why.

Originally Posted by Corey16

This is an excellent write up for those who are wanting to do a fantastic job on detailing their car. This should go into the "How-To's" under "Show", would a moderator make this happen? I think it would be worthy of it in my opinion.
.

Thank you sir was my first write-up. Theres so much information to go over but i didnt want to write a novel I was thinking about putting it in the how-to section but preferred to get feedback and discussion which isn't allowed there.

[Chad]

Nice

[Corey16]

Originally Posted by HaZal2d0uS

Thanks soundman, I figure if people want to figure out more they'll be able to find the good websites .. Autopia, detailers world, polished bliss...
I'll fix any broken links when I get off work tonight.



Car isn't 100% stock it's just not obvious and if you read my project thread you'd understand why.




Thank you sir was my first write-up. Theres so much information to go over but i didnt want to write a novel I was thinking about putting it in the how-to section but preferred to get feedback and discussion which isn't allowed there.

I think you basically covered it all pretty much. For a person who isn't into detailing and doesn't pay much attention to it this would be more than enough to please them. It would be a fantastic job of detailing my car if I took the time and bought all the necessary products for the job. Again, great job on the write up.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by Corey16

I think you basically covered it all pretty much. For a person who isn't into detailing and doesn't pay much attention to it this would be more than enough to please them. It would be a fantastic job of detailing my car if I took the time and bought all the necessary products for the job. Again, great job on the write up.

The only thing I really didn't cover is interior work. Just because I didn't have the time when I did have the nice camera to spend another hour or two on it. But I guess most people also know how to clean their interior rather than the exterior.
Thanks again

I'll do another write-up for a how-to if/when someone with a 3G asks for me to detail their car I'm willing to travel if you pay for the gas!

Until then, this will do and it can serve as the main thread which I'll answer questions from people!

[Blue0588]

Nice write up! Haven't thought of buffing out the windows before, looks nice. I usually use 4ot steel wool (0000) to help clean/get imperfections out of the glass.

[Bitter]

I just wanted to add:
Scrubbing bubbles is fantastic at removing spots on carpet and cloth seats, and also will just BOMB grime off plastics and door jambs.

Matte tire dressing/finish works AWESOME on rubber door seals after washing with Scrubbing bubbles.

[Fritz]

Originally Posted by soundman98

you should also have a autopia.org link for those that want to get crazier, and talk about car detailing more in depth.

I agree autopia is great for learning how to detail a car properly.


OP great nice write up How do you like the wolfgang products? Im hoping within the week ill get a porter cable and Adams polishes I was just wondering how the wolfgang products do for paint correction.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by Bitter

I just wanted to add:
Scrubbing bubbles is fantastic at removing spots on carpet and cloth seats, and also will just BOMB grime off plastics and door jambs.

Matte tire dressing/finish works AWESOME on rubber door seals after washing with Scrubbing bubbles.

I'd recommend Aerospace 303 for rubber things on your car, including the engine bay. I haven't found a better substitute. I haven't tried scrubbing bubbles on the carpet, though I'm lucky and have a steam vac for that basically. You also reminded me of something else that I forgot to cover in this wheels.

Originally Posted by Fritz

I agree autopia is great for learning how to detail a car properly.


OP great nice write up How do you like the wolfgang products? Im hoping within the week ill get a porter cable and Adams polishes I was just wondering how the wolfgang products do for paint correction.

I absolutely love Wolfgang so far! The sealant will literally last for 3 months if you take care of it. I got some additional Wolfgang products I haven't used yet. I don't have any Wolfgang for actual paint correction. I use it mostly at the end-steps. Like I've got the sealant, wheel cleaner, tire cleaner, etc... For actual paint correction compounds I use Menzerna.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by Blue0588

Nice write up! Haven't thought of buffing out the windows before, looks nice. I usually use 4ot steel wool (0000) to help clean/get imperfections out of the glass.

I'll try 4ot steel wool on my windows next time. They've got scratches from going up and down a lot and there's some decent rubbing that I half-way corrected near the top. If that doesn't work I'll put the spare windows that I've got lying around in my garage

[Blue0588]

Originally Posted by HaZal2d0uS

They've got scratches from going up and down a lot and there's some decent rubbing that I half-way corrected near the top.

Pop off your belt moldings and give those a wash too. Dirt likes to collect in that felt and gives you those streaks you're talking about

[davila825]

good job....the last picture....is it that car wash by taco johns?

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by HaZal2d0uS

I'll try 4ot steel wool on my windows next time. They've got scratches from going up and down a lot and there's some decent rubbing that I half-way corrected near the top. If that doesn't work I'll put the spare windows that I've got lying around in my garage

i noticed that in the pics of the 'water bead test'

you'll have to look for it, but last time i was on autopia(at least a year ago), there was a how-to thread with a at-the-time-new kit for polishing/buffing out scratches like that.. i want to say he was using a dark-colored toyota 4-door to demo the product...

currently, i use stoners invisible glass to clean my windows, and rain-x for water repellent, though i've been meaning to pick up a can of phaze glaze to do what i used to do when i worked at a car dealership-- get some buffing wheel overspray on the windshield, let it dry, then wipe it off(the stuff works better then rain-x!)

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by davila825

good job....the last picture....is it that car wash by taco johns?

Yep. Can't *wash* vehicles at my apartment and that was a week after I did the detailing and returned back to Ames.
Your car needing some loving? I would love to work on it!

[Bitter]

3M rubbing compound polishes glass up nicely, but they do make compounds just for glass which will remove light scratches and buff the edges of deeper ones to make them 'invisible'

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by Bitter

3M rubbing compound polishes glass up nicely, but they do make compounds just for glass which will remove light scratches and buff the edges of deeper ones to make them 'invisible'

Oh I've got similar stuff and used it during the process I described in the write-up. The scratches are unfortunately pretty deep, and I'd probably need a rotary or it's just simply too deep to correct.

[Bitter]

I want to say it's Cerium Oxide?

Amazon.com: CRL Cerium Oxide - One Pound: Everything Else

Yes, that stuff. You can buy it in smaller amounts in a paste or creme base or just buy that in bulk and mix it up yourself. I have not used it, but I need to get some.

[DIRTYWILL2001]

CarPro CeriGlass 500 ml
This is what i purchased along with the cutting pads to correct the scratches on my windows. Works great.

[Fritz]

Originally Posted by Bitter

I want to say it's Cerium Oxide?

Amazon.com: CRL Cerium Oxide - One Pound: Everything Else

Yes, that stuff. You can buy it in smaller amounts in a paste or creme base or just buy that in bulk and mix it up yourself. I have not used it, but I need to get some.

Originally Posted by DIRTYWILL2001

CarPro CeriGlass 500 ml
This is what i purchased along with the cutting pads to correct the scratches on my windows. Works great.

Im definently going to have to try one of these my window has a bunch of light scratches for some reason

Thanks for the links guys

[SpeedDemon350]

I've also found that a heavy duty polishing compound and a buffer does wonders in removing oxidation from the headlights. I used to have yellow-hazed lights. Afterwards, they looked pretty new. Also, if the car you are working on hasn't been detailed in years, and the paint is loosing its shine, I'd recommend after using a clay bar to polish the car with a polisher to restore the shine, and getting rid of tiny scratches.

What is the correct process for touching up paint though, would I have to fine sand the area around it and apply the touch up, followed by clear?

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by SpeedDemon350

I've also found that a heavy duty polishing compound and a buffer does wonders in removing oxidation from the headlights. I used to have yellow-hazed lights. Afterwards, they looked pretty new. Also, if the car you are working on hasn't been detailed in years, and the paint is loosing its shine, I'd recommend after using a clay bar to polish the car with a polisher to restore the shine, and getting rid of tiny scratches.

What is the correct process for touching up paint though, would I have to fine sand the area around it and apply the touch up, followed by clear?

Basically what the whole "Headlight Restoration" kit is, is a fine-grit sandpaper and elbow grease... Which is the exact same if you think about it with an orbital buffer and cutting compound. And you obviously didn't read the write-up I go over clay-bars... You're wrong to say that they remove tiny scratches, they remove the contaminants that are still remaining on your car, there is no "paint correction" in using a clay bar, it's a necessary step in preparation for paint correction. But it does "restore shine" to a point because there's a bare minimum/no contaminants on the paint. It won't remove problems in your clearcoat that are usually the bigger and more obvious issue.

As far as fixing paint problems, I haven't done this yet. This is to fix rock chips and other various problems you have with the paint. It's no easy fix and there's some time involved... (I cannot take credit for this, Jeremy/ICEMAN gave me this information about a month ago for my own purposes)

- 320 grit Sand paper
- roll of 3/4" atuo tape
- roll of paper 2' wide
- 1 can of gray primer or build primer
- 400/600 grit paper for finish sanding.
- tact cloth
- can of plastic filler /hardener

If you decide to paint it, I would suggest a few sheets of 1500 paper and a can of BullyDog... you body supply shop will know what it is.

Start of taping off the spots you wish not to hit... just to be safe. Start with your 320 hitting everything once over nice, mix up a little filler and with your finger (you will need some rubber gloves for this) dab on the spots where the paint is missing, you will not need a lot just enough to fill over.... mix only what you need. Wait till hard then go over again with your 320 till she is smooth. Lightly mist with your primer and sand out with your 400/600 which ever you choose and then wipe with your tact cloth before you paint.

[SpeedDemon350]

Thanks for the info, sounds like a lot of work. Think I'll just deal the few nicks I have. Mainly there on the front bumper, which just recently got cracked by a friend.

Originally Posted by SpeedDemon350

Also, if the car you are working on hasn't been detailed in years, and the paint is loosing its shine, I'd recommend after using a clay bar to polish the car with a polisher to restore the shine, and getting rid of tiny scratches.

Originally Posted by HaZal2d0uS

And you obviously didn't read the write-up I go over clay-bars... You're wrong to say that they remove tiny scratches, they remove the contaminants that are still remaining on your car, there is no "paint correction" in using a clay bar, it's a necessary step in preparation for paint correction. But it does "restore shine" to a point because there's a bare minimum/no contaminants on the paint. It won't remove problems in your clearcoat that are usually the bigger and more obvious issue.

You obviously didn't read my post right. I said after clay-barring the car, you polish the car with a polisher/rubbing compound. I've found that to remove small scratches just fine. If anything, it hid them pretty well.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by SpeedDemon350

You obviously didn't read my post right. I said after clay-barring the car, you polish the car with a polisher/rubbing compound. I've found that to remove small scratches just fine. If anything, it hid them pretty well.

You would be correct sir. Though I did have to read that literally 10 times to see what you were meaning to say so I understand how I misread it the first time. Apologies.

[Got Rice Boy]

Also, just a few more tips. Saw this the other day and thought it could apply.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Excellent video. I personally don't do any of the bad things he mentioned (besides TIP 1, I explain though), though I've learned myself away some of them. Though he didn't really explain some key details so I will though.

TIP 10 (floor mats) - An obvious one, just don't do it.
TIP 9 (carpets) - Never used anything besides interior cleaners
TIP 8 (tire dressing) - This is really a product testing thing, you choose what you like best. Though I do agree with him although some tire gels still leave splatter.
TIP 7 (washing with clean mits) - Sort of obvious. What he really didn't go over but quickly mentioned was a 2-Bucket Washing Method. What this means is exactly what I went over in the write-up. You have one bucket filled with just water and the grit-guard is in the bottom of that one (grit guard will be explained later) and this collects all of your dirt, grime, etc that you pull off the car. The other bucket is your soap bucket. After using your *clean* wash mit on your car go to the first bucket mentioned to get everything out of it then go to your soap bucket. This heavily reduces your possibility of creating scratches on your paint.
TIP 6 (windows) - Yes you must use the correct microfiber towel for the correct job. What a "window" microfiber towel (first time I've heard it called that) is actually a Microfiber Waffle Weave towel. They're absolutely great for windows. Now a little Microfiber 101 information: The reason that microfiber towels work better than anything else is because they have very fine fibers have little 'hook like claws' that reach into the tiniest of crevices, pulling out dirt, dust, grease, grime, and even bacteria. They hold these foreign materials in their web of weaves until they are washed in warm water where the fibres relax and release these materials. In english, this means that they hold the various particles within the towel (above just the surface) so it doesn't scratch your paint and then releases them into warm water.
TIP 5 (correctly wiping your car) - This should be somewhat obvious but isn't for everyone. Without lubrication things will scratch...
TIP 4 (soaps) - Definitely use the correct car soap, and use the correct products and application methods that they're designed for.
TIP 3 (fixing wax) - I'm sure everyone has had this problem, if you say you haven't you're lying. Just use the correct lubricant (aka: don't use a degreaser you'll remove all your just-applied wax) and fix your missed spots. I liked that he showed using a detailing brush for the small crevices, not everyone keeps one on them.
TIP 2 (interior cleaner) - YES! This is probably why so many people have cracked dashes here, and while you could blame it on Mitsubishi/Dodge/Etc... but I'm willing to bet it's mostly because people use cheaper cleaning products that cause this problem. Then he mentioned not applying this to your shifter or steering wheel, it's basically a repeat mistake of TIP 10.
TIP 1 (wheel wash bucket) - Now this is something I actually don't use, and it's a method that's just as safe. Every time I wash my vehicle I do my my paint first, I don't touch the wheels even the first time I wash (I wash my vehicle twice) and then after I've hit every area of paint the second time, all while using the 2-bucket-method mentioned before; I then go to my wheels and wheel wells. This ensures that I'm not transferring where the most of the contaminants are (wheels and wheel wells) onto the most delicate area of the car (paint). After I've done my washing, waxing, paint correction... whatever I've done for the day/weekend I then put all my microfiber towels and wash mits into the washer and dryer. Don't put your dryer on a hot setting to avoid burning your microfibers in the microfiber towels rendering them useless! This method should ensure that you always use clean towels on your car and cause the least amount of harm to your paint.
Onto the grit-guard! The grit-guard is a patented piece of plastic that's a paint saver. Like mentioned in the video, it's cheap. Get one! What it does is allows dirt and other particles to settle at the bottom of the bucket and it keeps them there, it's been specifically designed to do just that. It's an essential prevention tool to add to your arsenal to protect your paint.

If anyone has got any additional questions about what he goes over or talks about just ask I should be able to help answer it for you.

[HaZal2d0uS]

I'll be detailing my boss's 350z convertible in the fall before winter hits so he can store it. Will be getting some more pictures up and I'll also be adding detailed information to such areas as wheels, interior leather, and soft top protection that I didn't cover earlier.
If there's anything anybody else would like me to cover just ask.

[HaZal2d0uS]

I figure I'll bump this considering it's getting near that time of year when everyone is starting to prep their car for winter

[brownbob06]

Good write up.

Just to add a little something, MAKE SURE you're either kneading your clay or washing with toothbrush and lubricant VERY often to avoid getting crap trapped in the clay and creating more scratching.
My favorite clay bar lube is Optimum No Rinse car wash. When diluted right it will save you a ton of money and is a great quick detailer

I also went into detailing full time and learned a LOT from autopia. Great group of people over there and they're definitely willing to help. That's where I found out about HD Speed, which saves me a crap load of time when I'm doing full details for people.

[HaZal2d0uS]

Originally Posted by brownbob06

Good write up.

Just to add a little something, MAKE SURE you're either kneading your clay or washing with toothbrush and lubricant VERY often to avoid getting crap trapped in the clay and creating more scratching.
My favorite clay bar lube is Optimum No Rinse car wash. When diluted right it will save you a ton of money and is a great quick detailer

I also went into detailing full time and learned a LOT from autopia. Great group of people over there and they're definitely willing to help. That's where I found out about HD Speed, which saves me a crap load of time when I'm doing full details for people.

Thanks!
Obviously don't check this thread enough... *subscribed now*

Can't believe I skipped that step with the clay bar needing to be kneaded... Those little details that mean so much that you forget when doing a write-up

[HaZal2d0uS]

I'm going to add more to this write-up with doing my wheels this spring. Is there anything else someone else would like me to cover, add-to, or edit?