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Old 05/14/2004, 05:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Read this BEFORE POSTING - FAQ, Killing Noise, recommended parts list and links!

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Old 05/14/2004, 05:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I cut off my factory radio harness, how do I wire up my new stereo to it?
You're dumb. Reattach the harness you cut off, then buy an aftermarket adapter harness. The aftermarket harness will wire up to your new radio color for color (for most units) and will plug directly into the factory harness. If you cut the factory plug off too close and can't reattach it then take your car to someone who knows what they are doing, tell them you're a fool and ask them to install a reverse harness adapter (aftermarket factory harness).
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What does aftermarket and OEM mean?
There are two types of components. Aftermarket and OEM.
OEM is "Original Equipment Manufacturer", or a part that is specifically design for your vehicle, by the maker of your vehicle (the stock audio system is OEM for our cars)
Aftermarket is designed to fit either your car, or to be universal and is not made by the maker of your vehicle. (Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, etc are aftermarket audio components)
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What is MIXED MONO MODE?
Mixed mono is simply taking a set of speakers (the front or rear) and tapping the positive on the left and the negative on the right channel (or right and left, which is the positive and which is the negative is irrelevant) for a single sourced sound. You cannot create a mixed mono signal if your system uses a floating ground. (very rare, and doesn't apply to any of our stock head units).
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Where do I buy *X* part to do my install?
Links to all adapters and what you might need to complete your install are located at the bottom of this page.

Edit: Dead link.


amp bypass:
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-7002

amp integration:
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-7003

rs/gs without amp:
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-7001
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What happens to my clock pod if I put a new stereo in?
If you replace your factory stereo, your clock pod will function as normal with the exception of the radio display information, which will no longer show.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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What should I get when I replace *part*?
  • You only need the antenna kit if you have the glass mount antenna. Mast antennas do not need the antenna kit.
  • The Ring Terminal is to ground your new head unit or LVT to the chassis.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I got a PIE or MITAH adapater. What do I do with this blue wire coming out of it?
Attach it to your aftermarket head unit's remote lead (usually blue w/ white stripe), or to the low voltage trigger's trigger wire if you're replacing the stock amp.
If you replace the head unit and DO NOT hook up this wire, your stock amp will not come on and you'll get no sound.
If you replace the stock amp and DO NOT attach this wire to the an LVT and then the LVT in turn to the aftermarket amp remote turn on terminal, the new amp will not power on with the head unit.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do I need to get the American International bracket or a Pocket?
If you already have a pocket directly beneath your radio then you don't need any mounting parts. However, if you don't have a pocket directly below your radio then you should get a pocket OR the American International mounting bracket. If you can't find a universal pocket, the American International mounting bracket is the easiest way for a neat and tidy install. Do you need it? Nope. But it sure makes stuff easier and nicer looking when you're done. If your factory stereo is in two pieces, for example the single cd on top and a separate cd changer below it... then it is always an option to replace one unit with the aftermarket head-unit and to leave the other unit there to fill space. The factory component you left in will not function, it will simply fill space. This bracket will also eliminate the ground loop that can occur due to the metal backets that come stock. The linked bracket below is plastic, and will not cause a local loop when bolted in as the stock bracket has been known to do.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Do I need a Line Convertor?
This is difficult to answer generically. First, you only need this if you are keeping your stock head unit, AND you are adding an aftermarket amp (or replacing the PP stock amp completely).
If you have the RS (comes w/ no stock amp) then this is the easiest way to add an amp and subs to the stock system (read: if you have an aftermarket headunit with pre-outs then you don't need this). It's not nessecarily the best. Line convertors tend to degrade the signal to noise ratio, adding hiss. Since hiss occurs at the high end of the frequency spectrum, it's okay to use one of these for your subs, but getting a good head unit with low level outs is generally better for the interior speakers.
If you have a stock amp and are going to replace it: It's best to go with the PIE/ MITAH adapter and use those outs rather than attempt to half-ass something off the rear speakers.
If you have a stock amp and are just adding a sub woofer amp: Then get the line convertor and wire it in mixed mono mode (below in parts list)
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My FM reception SUCKS now that I have replaced my head unit. Now what?
Generally, I recommend 5 things to try to rememdy this problem. Please remember that all head units are not created equal. You results will vary. In the order in which I would troubleshoot (simplest to most complex/ expensive):
  • Make sure the antenna lead is plugged intot he head unit properly.: Sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. If one doesn't work, try using the alternate antenna lead.
  • Check the antenna cable at the rear passenger 6x9.
    There is a male-female connector there that may have come unplugged.
  • Go to Radio Shack and get a "Y" splitter and a Euro to standard antenna adapter.
    Plug the larger antenna wire into the Y splitter, plug the euro adapter into the smaller one, then the standard end of the euro adapter into the Y splittler, then plug the Y splitter into the head unit. This works for most people.
  • Get a flexible antenna and put it in the hollow behind the passenger side 6x9.
    Using the stock antenna wire where it breaks at the rear passenger 6x9 makes this an easy task.
  • As a last resort, have an automatic retracting antenna put on the rear quarter, like a spyder.
    I don't know anyone that's gone to this extreme, however, this will certainly work, as you're installing a whole new antenna into the car.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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XM and Sirius
What it is: XM and Sirius are brand names. They are both digital satellite radio providers.
Are they good: It's CD quality, uncensored, and (for the most part) commercial free. Commercialized stations are clearly marked in the subscriber's kit you get (for XM). Overall it's excellent.
How do I get them? Go to your local stereo store and tell them you want Satellite radio installed (or XM or Serius if you have a preference). They whill show you some compatible units. See what has the lineup that you like best and go from there.
Will I need a new head unit to get XM? The short: no, although I won't mention it here. There's reasons to get satellite radio, and a good part of that is for quality which will suffer tremendously unless you get an XM capable head unit.
How much is it?tuners are from $200 to $500. Plus the XM bcapable head unit (again $200 and up), plus the XM antenna (no your FM antenna will NOT work), $70-$110.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Is there any way to get sound INTO the stock head unit?
Aside from using a cassette adapter (if you have a cassette player), or an FM modulator, there is no way. There is no provision for input on the stock unit. If there was some enterprising individual who wanted to make one to plug into the CD changer port ont he back, you could add one through there. However, there is no stock provision for auxilliary in.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Follow the steps below to eliminate noise from your install, whether it's radiated, ground loop, or alternator whine, this should fix it.

There is one other test aside from what's below that you can perform: if you follow the below steps and find it's coming from your alternator, hook up your battery to a friends car that has NO whine, start your car and have him play his system. if you get whine in your friend's car, your charging system has a serious problem that you should probably go consult the Mitsubishi dealer about.

Here's how to isolate your amp to make sure it's not coming in through the electrical system (the "Start Here" step below):


Test for noise and eliminate it this way:
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Here is everything you'll need to replace your head unit and/or bypass stock parts. All these are direct links to the product. We do not endorse any of the vendors for products recommended here; we only provide the link to assist you in getting what you need to complete your installation.

Links: PIE Interface Adapter
MITAH Interface Adapter
What it looks like:
The PIE HRC-MIT part:

The PEripheral's Component's PER-MITAH part:

Will the linked HRC-MIT Adapter (which we here refer to as a PIE adapter) work in my 3g? Although the linked item says "1995-1999 ", the audio components in the 2g and 3g are interchangable, so this will work for you.
Are PIE and PER-MITAH (which we refer to as a MITAH adapter) the same thing?
Yes. You only need one or the other. PIE is cheaper and easier to find. You'll get exactly the same result from both of them.
Will the PIE or MITAH damage my stock system?
This is the most rediculous thing I've read, but it's been asked. The answer is absolutely not. End of discussion.
What it's for: Those wanting to add an aftermarket head unit, but keep their stock amplifier. OR keep their stock head unit and add an aftermarket amplifier. FYI: The production of the MITAH interface cable seems to have either halted or slowed as they are difficult to find, and the linked item above is regularly out of stock. The PIE works every bit as well.
How do I use it? Plug the HRC-MIT or PER-MITAH cable into the factory DIN cable at the head unit. Then plug the aftermarket head unit RCA-outs into the corresponding RCA ins on the PIE/MITAH adapter. Connect the remote turn on lead coming out of the interface adapter to the aftermarket head unit remote turn on lead. You can also reverse-connect this, that is, hang it on the end of the cable near the stock amp giving yourself leads to run to aftermarket amps (bypassing the stock amp), but you'll need a low-voltage trigger teathered to the remote lead that is in the stock DIN cable.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Link: Power Harness Adapter
What it looks like:

What it's for: Plugging an aftermarket head unit into the stock harness without cutting into it (Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, are examples of aftermarket units).
How do I use it? Splice the wires on the aftermarket head unit harness into the wires on the MI02B. Plug the aftermarket end into the head unit, then plug the MI02b end into the stock power harness.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Link: Low Voltage Trigger
What it looks like:

What it does: Allows you to add a remote turn on lead to your PP stock DIN cable and use it to turn on an aftermarket amp.
How do I use it? Connect it to + power, - ground, and the remote turn on lead off the stock head unit. Run off the LVT to the remote turn on lead.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Link: Line Converter
What it looks like:

What it's for: Allows you to keep your non-premium package head unit or premium package full setup and add an aftermarket amp.
What it does: For those of you with NO factory amplifier looking to add RCA outs to your head unit, or those WITH the Premium package setup looking to add an additional amplifier. Adjustable up to 80 watt input. Converts high level (speaker) to low level (RCA) and adds a remote turn on lead.
How do I use it? Varies from install to install. Many people use this as an out/in for a subwoofer amplifier. If this is the case, take the + from one rear factory 6x9 speaker, and the - from the other (called MIXED MONO mode), and connect it to the Line convertor's + and - respectively. Run the RCA outs to the amplifier's RCA (low level) ins and the remote lead on the Line convertor to the aftermarket amplifier's remote in.
When looking for a Line Converter: try asking for a "high level to low level line converter for car audio". Even Radio shack sells them. They all might not have the same functionality of the one pictured, but they will pretty much accomplish the same task.
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Old 05/14/2004, 05:53 PM   #19 (permalink)
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This next part is only for people putting a Mitsubishi head unit into a different vehicle!!!
Link: Reverse Power Harness Adapter
What it's for: ONLY for people putting a stock Mitsubishi head unit into a different car.
What it does: Plugs into the stock head unit and adds leads for speakers and power.
How do I use it? Get this AND a power harness adapter for your vehicle (varies) and tie the two together appropriately. Plug the MI02RB into the Mitubishi head unit, then plug your car's aftermarket adapter into your factory harness plug.
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Old 08/30/2005, 09:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MECP
Here is everything you'll need to replace your head unit and/or bypass stock parts. All these are direct links to the product. We do not endorse any of the vendors for products recommended here; we only provide the link to assist you in getting what you need to complete your installation.

Links: PIE Interface Adapter
MITAH Interface Adapter
What it looks like:
The PIE HRC-MIT part:

The PEripheral's Component's PER-MITAH part:

Will the linked HRC-MIT Adapter (which we here refer to as a PIE adapter) work in my 3g? Although the linked item says "1995-1999 ", the audio components in the 2g and 3g are interchangable, so this will work for you.
Are PIE and PER-MITAH (which we refer to as a MITAH adapter) the same thing?
Yes. You only need one or the other. PIE is cheaper and easier to find. You'll get exactly the same result from both of them.
Will the PIE or MITAH damage my stock system?
This is the most rediculous thing I've read, but it's been asked. The answer is absolutely not. End of discussion.
What it's for: Those wanting to add an aftermarket head unit, but keep their stock amplifier. OR keep their stock head unit and add an aftermarket amplifier. FYI: The production of the MITAH interface cable seems to have either halted or slowed as they are difficult to find, and the linked item above is regularly out of stock. The PIE works every bit as well.
How do I use it? Plug the HRC-MIT or PER-MITAH cable into the factory DIN cable at the head unit. Then plug the aftermarket head unit RCA-outs into the corresponding RCA ins on the PIE/MITAH adapter. Connect the remote turn on lead coming out of the interface adapter to the aftermarket head unit remote turn on lead. You can also reverse-connect this, that is, hang it on the end of the cable near the stock amp giving yourself leads to run to aftermarket amps (bypassing the stock amp), but you'll need a low-voltage trigger teathered to the remote lead that is in the stock DIN cable.
The PIE HRC-MIT part is also know as the METRA 70-7003, which can be obtained at PARTS EXPRESS (PartsExpress.com) or call 1-800-338-0531.... Or you can just click here!


http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=265-846
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Old 03/14/2006, 08:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 10/03/2006, 09:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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common wire colors:

Just to help this come up in a search, im adding in some keywords.

Wire color wiring speaker chart diagram accessory wire speaker wires colors


Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyclipse
Heres a wiring diagram for your whole car....

| 12V|white/red |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/red |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|dk. green |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue/red |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue/black|+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|lt. green/black *2 |- |drivers kick panel *1 |
| POWER UNLOCK|orange *2 |- |drivers kick panel *1 |
| LOCK MOTOR|lt. green | |drivers kick panel *1 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|dk. green/red | |drivers kick panel *1 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|blue/black | |passenger kick panel or *9 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|grn/wht or pnk/blk | |low in drivers kick |
| HEADLIGHTS|orange |- |headlight relay under hood |
| DOOR TRIGGER|green/yellow |- |fuse box *8 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|green/orange |- |fuse box *3 |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red |- |drivers kick panel *7 |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|green/white |5wi|drivers kick panel *7 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|*6 | | |
| TACHOMETER|*4 | |*4 |
| SPEED SENSE|white/blue | |center console *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green/orange |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|lt. green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org & blu/yel |+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blk - grn/blk |A |drivers window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|red/wht - green |A |drivers kick panel *1 |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|not recommended | | |
| RADIO 12V|orange/black |+ |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|white/black |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|green/white |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|wht/blu - blk/blu | |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|wht/red - blk/red | |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|yel/blu - gry/blu | |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|yel/red - gry/red | |radio |

Notes: NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer. *1 Located in a black 32 pin plug. *2 These are the door key cylinder wires. Meter the wires while turning the key in the drivers door. Unlock requires a double pulse. On vehicles without the factory alarm use purple for lock and lt. green/red for unlock, these are the door lock switch wires. *3 In the plug on the upper right side of the fuse box under the driver side dash. *4 Go to the test connector inside the fusebox under the hood, it is a T shaped plug. Tach is the terminal on the top left of the T, the wire under the terminal is white or white/red. *5 Located in a large white 38 pin plug behind the radio. *6 To disarm without unlocking, use a single pulse on the unlock wire. *7 Located in a white 43 pin plug. *8 Located in a black 19 pin plug on the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash. *9 Also found in a black 20 pin plug on the front of the fuse box under the driver side dash.
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Old 03/31/2007, 01:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 07/14/2007, 03:29 AM   #24 (permalink)
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thats alot of wires
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Old 02/06/2008, 07:00 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Is the one labeled:

RADIO SWITCH|white/black |+ |radio

a remote turn on lead? or should i use the radio 12v power?
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Old 02/07/2008, 09:47 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butterssd View Post
Is the one labeled:

RADIO SWITCH|white/black |+ |radio

a remote turn on lead? or should i use the radio 12v power?
If you're using an aftermarket headunit, it should have a blue wire labeled "Remote" "Remote turn-on" or "Power Antenna"

If you're using the stock HU, I would say get a test light or a volt meter and set the wires to find the switch or key (whichever you want to call it) hot.

EDIT: ^^^ Its the Pink wire on the factory HU.


Now, my question is. I have a 00 GT with the Infinity system. I have replaced the HU and installed subs + sub amp. Now since I'm lazy, and I dont feel like cutting into my factory stuff...Is there a harness that will connect to the factory amp harness?

Basically this only for the amp side.

Last edited by Zz_3.14_zZ; 02/07/2008 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 02/07/2008, 06:21 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zz_3.14_zZ View Post
Now, my question is. I have a 00 GT with the Infinity system. I have replaced the HU and installed subs + sub amp. Now since I'm lazy, and I dont feel like cutting into my factory stuff...Is there a harness that will connect to the factory amp harness?

Basically this only for the amp side.
That is what you use, inless I am not understanding your question fully.
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Old 01/10/2009, 01:11 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Good-helpful information guys, thanx

Last edited by SlvErEclpsTR; 01/10/2009 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 03/10/2009, 07:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zz_3.14_zZ View Post

Now, my question is. I have a 00 GT with the Infinity system. I have replaced the HU and installed subs + sub amp. Now since I'm lazy, and I dont feel like cutting into my factory stuff...Is there a harness that will connect to the factory amp harness?
There is a part out there by Metra called: "METRA 70-7002 1994-2004 MITSUBISHI AMP BY-PASS HARNESS". Under your passenger seat you pull out the wiring harness that goes from amp to speakers and you plug this in and run the wires up to your head unit. I am currently in this process of doing my entire system over so it is plug and play with any after market radio without losing my preout's.

Enter that title into eBay and it will bring up a seller that carries it. Best of luck.
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Old 04/03/2009, 12:17 AM   #30 (permalink)
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FYI, Metra part 70-7004 also works for Eclipse 1995-2004. I just received it off ebay for $12 and it worked great.

You get the power harness and then 2 other adapters that work with or without having the stock amp. So this works for anyone who is replacing the stock head unit, regardless of whether or not you have the stock amp.
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Old 06/23/2009, 04:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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lets say im putting in a 4dsic changer w/cassette back into my 3g that doesn't have the infinity amp. What can I do to get it working..? I understand that I do need a metra adapter though
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Old 11/27/2010, 11:44 AM   #32 (permalink)
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DIN adapter with RCA tap

I'm wanting to tap into DIN plug either coming out of hear unit or at amp under pass seat to get RCA jacks output for subwoofer amp. Wondering if anyone has found this adapter. Rather tap before amp them to mixed-mono bridge off of speaker level outputs. Thanks
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Old 01/04/2011, 07:45 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Metra with Subs

I bought a Metra adapter that converts the seven prong cable from the car to 4 RCA cables, My Kenwood headunit only has 4 RCA outputs, so If I also have 2 sub RCA cables that come from my subs, where do I plug them in? How would you go about hooking up my system? I am very good at soldering and can make a new harness. I have a harness that sends the speakers through the power harness so I could solder the RCAs from the Metra to the correct speaker inputs so that the RCA outputs on the headunit will be open to connect my subs, or could I perhaps use a splitter for the rear channel? I have done some HW and am not a newbie, so if you guys have a good solution, I have the capabilities to put them into play....Thanks
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Old 11/22/2014, 09:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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power antenna wiring.. gts spyder

ok, ill wake this thread from the dead...
i am installing a dvd unit w back up camera and was wondering if it would be possible to use the power wire at the head unit, to send power back to the camera from a switch...( of course with diodes in place to prevent tail lights from lighting) so i can use my rear view camera whenever i want not just in reverse....

so i guess my question is... does anybody know what pins on the oem harness are for the power antenna? and is it seperate from the amp turn on lead?
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Old 09/23/2015, 09:59 AM   #35 (permalink)
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2003 Eclipse and wondering about a Double Din conversation?
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Old 09/23/2015, 11:08 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShellJesse View Post
2003 Eclipse and wondering about a Double Din conversation?
What do you want to converse about??
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Old 09/23/2015, 11:32 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Old 09/23/2015, 04:00 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Glad I made it in time for the conversation!
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