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Old 04/21/2019, 02:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Idk if anyone else has a issue with slight over heating at idle. 149,930 miles. New water pump, alternator, battery, mishimoto radiator, new ac compressor and serpentine belt too. I dont know if it's just the reading or what ALSO HOW DO I POST A PHOTO ON HERE?
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Old 04/24/2019, 03:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You didn't mention a new thermostat. If you are overheating, I'd replace that. It's a cheap part and easy to access. Then make sure you burp the coolant system to make sure there are no air bubbles.
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Old 04/24/2019, 05:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If it's only overheating at idle, my experience has been that it's usually the radiator fan. Because when your driving, it will have air running through the fan anyways. What I'd do, is turn on the A/C, and idle the car until it gets up to temp. At that point, both fans should be on. If one fan kicks on, but not the other, then you'll know your problem. But a thermostat is not a bad idea either, since you're that deep into the cooling system already
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Old 04/24/2019, 08:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If your fans work properly, your radiator could be clogged, if you can't afford a new one or you just don't want to buy one, you can always take it off and clean it. There are videos on YouTube on cleaning blockages.
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Old 04/26/2019, 12:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes. The thermostat has been changed recently as well and no the mishimoto radiator is also new so it cant be clogged. Both fans kick on actually.
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Old 04/26/2019, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Was the coolant system burped properly? If you have air bubbles your system wouldn't be working at peak performance, causing the engine to heat at idle.
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Old 04/30/2019, 10:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I believe so ... I could redo but if not then what???
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Old 05/01/2019, 10:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What could happen is the fins on the water pump has disintegrated and requires higher engine speeds to move the water.
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Old 05/02/2019, 01:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asharoo View Post
I believe so ... I could redo but if not then what???
If your fans and thermostat are working, I bet you it needs to be burped. It's a pain in the ass with these cars. Works better if you can park on a hill with the nose facing up. Engine needs to be warm to make sure coolant is flowing through the whole system. I found a funnel that I could jam in the fill neck of the radiator and filled the funnel half way. Then with the engine running I'd rev the engine gently and watch the fluid in the funnel rise. Release throttle and repeat. When bubbles stop coming out, the system is burped.

Also, just because the radiator is new, doesn't mean it can't be clogged. Depends on how nasty the system was before you changed it. If it was bad, something may have migrated from the block to the new radiator. Also, manufacturing defects happen.

Finally, make sure your coolant hoses aren't kinked. Not sure which ones you used, but if they are universal style ones, they may be kinked where they are bent.
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Old 07/19/2019, 07:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I appreciate the Insight. BUT ITS STILL OVER HEATING AT IDLE. I burped the system like yall said but I have no idea would it could possibly be!!!!!! Ima go crazy. Everything involving the cooling system has been NEWLY changed within the past year......

Timing belt/waterpump
Mishimoto radiator
Thermostat
The entire AC Compressor and everything that involves that
(Serpentine belt too)
I have no idea what it could be..... if I idle in 1st gear with the AC blowing cold oN full blast, IT USED TO BE FINE. TILL IT STARTED GETTING SLIGHTLY HOTTER EVEN WITH AC BLOWING COLD. BUT IF I put it on Hot it'll go back down. I dont need this B.S please help???? Could it be a blown head gasket???????? That's the only thing I could thing of. I hope not and I dont see any symptoms of that. I DONT KNOW?! help!!!!
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Old 07/19/2019, 07:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Possibly overheating? Or idk

Sitting at 151,000k if that helps..
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Old 07/21/2019, 12:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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are you losing coolant? did you get a new radiator cap?
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Old 07/21/2019, 11:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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No coolant lost from what I've seen. And well the whole radiator was new.?Including cap and all
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Old 07/22/2019, 10:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Do some troubleshooting, man. Check to see if you radiator is clogged by using a laser thermometer or thermocouple in different sections. Check for coolant flow in the hoses by squeezing them off and slowly releasing them. Check to make sure you didn't get faulty thermostat by checking its operation. Check to make sure your fans are cycling properly. I believe they have both a high speed and a low speed. Make sure they both work.

Just because you have new parts doesn't mean they aren't messed up. Manufacturing mistakes happen. Cooling systems on these things aren't complicated. You can do this if you just take some time and verify that things are working the way they should. It'll certainly get you further than coming in here and typing up a frantic post because you are just replacing things without doing a thorough diagnosis.
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Old 07/23/2019, 03:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Does your radiator have a hose from the top of the radiator going to the coolant reservoir?

Be sure you aren't losing coolant

fill your radiator all the way to the top

fill your coolant Reservoir all the way to FULL

get your car temp up and watch for bubbles in the coolant reservoir.

If you have a leak anywhere in the system, air will stop the flow of coolant in the system.

When air is in the system, air goes to the top(highest point) . The radiator cap is supposed to open up at 16 psi to release trapped air(bubbles) into the coolant reservoir and coolant will go back up the tube replacing the trapped air with coolant.


I also had to drive after the first burping of coolant to %100 get the trapped air out.

Check the coolant level after the car is cooled down all the way. (if hoses are warm then you still have to wait longer)

I seriously just solved my coolant loss issues after a long time so I'll help you with everything I did
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Old 07/31/2019, 09:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Didn't see if you checked the fans without A/C or defrost on, I had a corrupt ECU that cycled the fans for A/C and defrost, but fans wouldn't turn on from the temp sender. I should also mention the temp sender for the fans is different than for the cluster, so it could prevent them coming on from temp also.
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