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Old 03/27/2019, 07:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3g low idle and running rich

Hi everyone. I'm Sean, 20, from Maryland.

I'm new here and I'm just looking for help fixing this problem with my car before I take it to a shop.

My 2003 eclipse gt has been running rich on both banks with low idle. Now it won't stay on at all. The IAC valve works, I have both tested it with a meter and visually watched it move when removed and still plugged in while turning the car power on and off.

The maf sensor has been replaced twice with basically freebee sensors I got to test it. It seems to be giving proper readings with both a multimeter and with a scan tool. When I backprobed it I seem to get 45 hz at idle. I'm not sure if that's normal for this car.


The tps sensor seems to have a smooth curve but stops at 82% on the scan tool and WOT and 0% at closed throttle.

The MAP sensor is giving good readings I think based off the scan tool.
The throttle body is clean.

The EGR valve isn't leaking and moves freely and is cleaned.

The PCV valve is cleaned and moves freely.

The car idles fine after unplugging the battery and reconnecting it, I suppose because it is using preprogrammed tables for engine data.

The fuel trims, both banks, long and short are usually -10% to -15%

I have a new cheap tps and map coming in the mail. Sometimes the car unexplainably says it's at high engine load like 65% when I'm cruising on flat roads at like 40mph.

Nothing changes with the car when I unplug the tps when it's running. When I unplug the maf it runs super rich and pops.

Car won't stay on without foot on gas.

ECT temperature works as I can see with live data it goes up to 186 when driving and like 203 when idling for a while.

Oxygen sensors upstream vary between .04 and .8 volts which is normal. Downstream sensors follow this which made me think the cats are bad but last time I had this happen it was just that the engine was running super rich and the converters couldn't handle the overall mixture so they weren't burning it all. It went back to normal when fixed that issue.

I haven't got any O2 sensor codes but I haven't tested them. One is less than a year old. I don't think that would totally kill idling though. Car runs fine at crusing speed except only gets 15 mpg instead of the usual 20. Foot off the gas at crusing speed, engine bogs as if the wheels are turning the engine because the IAC isn't giving it any air.

Car has nearly everything replaced. New tranny, one new engine head, new water pump, timing belt, all new suspension, new control arms, new tie rods, new axles, new struts, new sway bar links, new starter, new radiator, new coolant hoses, new condenser coil, all the new sensors I said, 1 year old spark plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, new tires, new battery, good alternator (tested). So much is new.

If anyone can use these symptoms to help me please let me know. I'm at a loss.


Thanks.

Sean

Last edited by crazlaser; 03/27/2019 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 03/31/2019, 10:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
 
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Hmmmm. I guess you have checked for vacuum leaks? Especially at the fuel pressure regulator. You are supposed to get 39 psi at idle and around 50 psi at WOT.

You may want to re-clock the TPS, and see if you can get 0% and 100%.


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Old 04/01/2019, 08:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I haven’t checked those things but one reason that I feel it’s not that is that recently it used to work for a few minutes after disconnecting and reconnecting car battery. Now doing that doesn’t even help. Or if the tps was bad, I suppose the fuel pressure would be affected?

A mechanic told me he thinks the pcm is bad because all the sensors seem to be working but I feel like that’s not the issue here. The symptoms aren’t right. He also said he couldn’t replace the pcm and that I would have to take it to a dealership.

Can you instruct or link me to instructions on reclocking the tps.

Sean
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Old 04/02/2019, 10:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Loosen the TPS. Have the ignition "on" but don't start. With the logging program running, have foot off gas and find 0.0 TPS. Rotate TPS until zero. Then floor the gas petal and verify 100.0. Tighten. Done.
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Old 04/12/2019, 07:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It won't go to 100. Only to 84. With a new TPS it only goes to 68. Mitsubishi dealership put the old TPS back and that didn't fix anything. They're having trouble diagnosing the issue. This is the third shop I've taken my car to. Any more ideas?

Sean
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Old 04/12/2019, 04:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by crazlaser View Post
It won't go to 100. Only to 84. With a new TPS it only goes to 68. Mitsubishi dealership put the old TPS back and that didn't fix anything. They're having trouble diagnosing the issue. This is the third shop I've taken my car to. Any more ideas?

Sean
That ain't right. Clock the TPS by useing your hand to close and open the TB. You need to see 0 and 100 (EVOScan uses a different scale you'll see 9.xxx for zero and 96.47 for 100). Once you do, your throttle cable may need adjusting.
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