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Old 04/13/2019, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Running Rough

I got a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 3.0
It’s running rough and not getting any codes. I have changed plugs, wires, cap, button, both O2 sensors, Cleaned injectors, maf sensor, IAC valve. Fuel pressure around 40 psi once I unhook the vacuum line it goes to 48/50 psi.
Spark adv. reads 14 at idle then goes up with more gas.
Could it be a little out of time? Looks like the distributor has a slot for adjustment?
Sounds like there’s an exhaust leak also... could this effect the performance?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Old 04/16/2019, 02:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Please Help

Put new exhaust on.
Im thinking the problem might be in the injectors?? maybe one is sticking? does this make sense? still not getting a code?
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Old 04/17/2019, 07:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Check all of your vacuum lines going to your throttle body. Also check for intake leaks.

You can check the injectors by taking a long screwdriver and touching the tip of it to the injector while the engine is running. Place your ear on the end of the handle and you should hear a distinct clicking noise from the injector opening and closing. I know, it sounds hokey, but it works. I swear. Doesn't really help you for the rear ones I guess, but you should be able to check the front ones. If any sound different form the others, that could be your problem.

Maybe check your cam timing? Maybe the belt skipped a tooth?

Are you running old gas?

Air filter clogged up?
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Old 04/18/2019, 06:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Checks

I used a bottle of mapp gas with a rubber hose and went around everything i could get to checking for vac leaks. Didnt find anything.
Air filter isnt new but looks good.
If timing belt jumped a tooth would it still run? I im actually still driving it to work( 2 miles ) one way. It just spudders and you can smell gas from time to time. Still no codes??
I got 3 injectors last night, that all advance had. i plan on changing the back 3 tonight.
Gas is new.
thanks
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Old 04/18/2019, 11:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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A leak in the exhaust before the o2 sensor can result in the PCM reading lean. It will then adjust the fuel trim resulting in over fueling. I would start with fixing your exhaust issue. good luck!
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Old 04/18/2019, 03:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Also these cars have four O2 sensors. Check to make sure you don't have an exhaust leak before or near the O2 sensors in each of the exhaust banks near the engine.

Also, if you're looking to change O2 sensors, make sure you changed the ones near the engine as these are the ones that control fueling. The ones under the car near the cat are there solely for emissions system monitoring.
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Old 04/18/2019, 05:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Do you have a scan tool or voltmeter? This style of o2 sensor is a signal generator, It will output a voltage between 0-1v to the pcm. Readings between 0.0v - .450v would be interpreted by the pcm as that bank of cylinders having a lean air fuel ratio. A reading Between .450v - ~1v would be interpreted as rich.

On this 4 wire sensor the 2 wires that are the same color are for the heater circuit. Test the other 2 wires with the engine running and fullly warmed up and see what your voltage reading is. A normally o2 reading should fluctuate between rich/lean (.1-.9v) if its hanging to one extreme or the other the pcm will adjust the A/F ratio by adjusting the fuel injectors. this could cause a stumble.

Id take a few min to check this out before I replaced the injectors.

and while your checking those 2 upstream sensors grab a length of hose to use as a stethoscope. Put one end to your ear and use the other to listen around the exhaust manifold gasket's. you should be able to track down the exhaust leak if there is one.
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Old 04/18/2019, 06:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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test

The exhaust leak is fixed now.
I replaced the 3 back injectors.
scan readings
MAF .5
o2s b1 s1 .1- .8
o2s b1 s2 .9
it seems to run a little better but still stumbles
and the cat is getting cherry red while driving but not at an idle.
thanks
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Old 04/18/2019, 06:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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O2 sensors

this car only has two O2 sensors
one before the cat and one after the cat
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Old 04/18/2019, 06:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I was able to use a screwdriver and hear the clicking noise on five of the injectors. wasn't able to get a screwdriver on number 3 cylinder injector
thanks
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Old 04/18/2019, 06:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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MAP sensor

I did check the MAP sensor on top of the intake.
with my volt meter checking resistance im not getting any change while the car is running and im take the sensor on and off from the intake.
im guessing with the vacuum from the intake the sensor should change when I take the vacuum away and reapply??
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Old 04/18/2019, 09:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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We finally troubleshooted the problem to #5 cylinder. It’s getting spark and fuel.
Thinking it has to be a valve sticking or something else going on???
Plan on pulling the valve cover off within next couple days. Hopefully it’s something simple??
Hopefully I don’t have to pull the head??
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Old 04/24/2019, 04:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubles23 View Post
this car only has two O2 sensors
one before the cat and one after the cat
My mistake. Forgot about the fed-spec eclipses.
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Old 04/24/2019, 04:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry, man. If you're getting spark and fuel, next thing is compression. Maybe do a compression check and see if that cylinder is worn out or if a valve is leaking. Certainly do that before you rip a head off. Compare the reading to the other cylinders.

Edit: Just saw on another thread you did this already. Let us know what is causing the low compression. Did the cylinder wall look scored up?

Last edited by buddd; 04/24/2019 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 05/08/2019, 11:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Follow up

Well got finally got the car back together this past sunday(5/5/19) . They pressure check the head and cleaned it up. everything looked good. So I guess it was just a blown head gasket.
Drove it to my daughters softball game last night. about 40 miles one way. everything seems to be good. I did get a P0420 code on the way home. cleared it out and it hasn't came back yet.
thanks for your help.
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Old 05/08/2019, 02:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Glad you got it back together.
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Old 05/14/2019, 08:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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So was your problem a blown head gasket? What pressures were you getting? We're you burning coolant from the exhaust? My GTS is running bad right now and I still have not fixed it. Can't find the problem either.
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Old 05/14/2019, 09:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSDriver2003 View Post
So was your problem a blown head gasket? What pressures were you getting? We're you burning coolant from the exhaust? My GTS is running bad right now and I still have not fixed it. Can't find the problem either.
Did you do a compression check like both of us recommended? That's how he found his problem. Check the factory service manuals posted on this forum for correct compression pressures and testing procedure. (Section 11C-7) This is a basic engine health diagnostic and if you haven't done it, you're not going to have much luck finding your problem.

https://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/GR00002900-11C.pdf is the link for the manual section.
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Old 05/27/2019, 11:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ok here's an update. I went to go start the car today and it started fine. No smoke, no ticks, nothing. Got it in my buddies shop and we proceeded to swap out some past due maintenance parts i.g rotor, distribution cap, plugs, wires and the rear bank upstream o2 sensor (will do all of them soon) and valve covers gaskets and lastly PVC valve. First I noticed the PVC on this cars is gunked up to hell and cracked with electrical tape around it (previous owner is a dumb ass). Second, I pulled the plugs which were old and wires ( these are dry rotted and split every where). The biggest shock was the cap and rotor. The electrode on the rotor was grooved out and past worn and the cap had some much corrosion on the terminals along with the center button would not move. Have not done an compression test yet, but I am starting to think this has to be the problem all along. One this the really bothers me is the amount of oil residue in the intake and upper plenum. My buddy said he has seen alot worst and this could be partly due to the PVC valve that was bad. Anyone else found a lot of oil in their intakes during a plug wire change??
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Old 05/28/2019, 08:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSDriver2003 View Post
Ok here's an update. I went to go start the car today and it started fine. No smoke, no ticks, nothing. Got it in my buddies shop and we proceeded to swap out some past due maintenance parts i.g rotor, distribution cap, plugs, wires and the rear bank upstream o2 sensor (will do all of them soon) and valve covers gaskets and lastly PVC valve. First I noticed the PVC on this cars is gunked up to hell and cracked with electrical tape around it (previous owner is a dumb ass). Second, I pulled the plugs which were old and wires ( these are dry rotted and split every where). The biggest shock was the cap and rotor. The electrode on the rotor was grooved out and past worn and the cap had some much corrosion on the terminals along with the center button would not move. Have not done an compression test yet, but I am starting to think this has to be the problem all along. One this the really bothers me is the amount of oil residue in the intake and upper plenum. My buddy said he has seen alot worst and this could be partly due to the PVC valve that was bad. Anyone else found a lot of oil in their intakes during a plug wire change??
Wrong thread. This should be in your thread about your car.
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Old 05/28/2019, 11:14 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Sorry, need to have mods to delete my post. I have too many post about this damn car.
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