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Old 07/21/2019, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
JGH
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Preventing humidity on rotor and cap

Ever since I got a new truck and kept my car parked for a few days the rotor and cap on the distributor of my Eclipse GT has been getting corroded. I would turn the key and either my car would not start or it would rough idle. I have taken apart cleaned the contacts on both rotor and cap and the car fires right up with no issues. I let the car sit again and the issue occurs after a few days . A week ago I bought intermotor rotor and cap and also got the distributor cap gasket MD619127 from Mitsu. The new gasket definitely sealed better and my car ran fine after putting it back together. I tried to start my car today and again the contacts are corroded since it won't start/misfire . Previous brand of cap and rotor was beck/arnley. I also tried to search for previous post but did not find any. Any thoughts on how to go about this or are the parts I am getting are crap? Humidity has been very high over here in Nashville and never had this issue until I started using my truck.
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Old 07/22/2019, 11:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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WD40? It was invented to disperse water in ignition systems. Not sure how long the effect lasts though.
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Old 07/22/2019, 01:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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WD40? It was invented to disperse water in ignition systems. Not sure how long the effect lasts though.
Will try that tonight. Never thought of using WD40. Thanks for the input
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Old 07/24/2019, 01:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Tried the WD40 trick and then my car did not want to start/misfire. I sprayed a small amount of WD40 on contacts and wall of the cap and wiped off the excess. I still had my old parts so i cleaned them up and swapped them multiple times but still would not start or misfire. Plug wires were double checked and would trace all the plug wires to confirm that i had them hooked up right. Was up all night cause I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I tried to turn it on this morning and it fired right up..... usually it cycles 2-3 times before it turns on but this time it just turned on one crank cycle. I was baffled by this lol I got P0335 after the car started which is weird since it wouldn't have started if the crank sensor was going out? I will probably do some tests later to rule that out.
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Old 07/24/2019, 02:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Maybe a chafed sensor wire? Loose plug?
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Old 07/24/2019, 06:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Connector is good made sure the pins on both sides were good yesterday but I didn't bother to snake in the scope inside the timing cover to check the wires. On that topic I did have a chafed crank sensor but i forgot if i swapped it it when my old engine had catastrophic water pump failure. We crimped the wires on that crank sensor and it was working afterwards before the water pump gave out a year later but I need to double check that.
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Old 07/25/2019, 11:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Were the crimps sealed with shrink tubing after? Maybe some water got in there. Also the vibration of the engine might have loosened the crimps up. Consider soldering those joints just to be safe.
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Old 07/27/2019, 08:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Checked the sensor last night and we used the crank sensor that came with the engine. No damage to the outer casing or wires. Car is running fine now but not sure if parking it for a few days will start the issue again. Ill keep an eye on things. Thanks for the help!
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Old 07/31/2019, 06:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Weird. I never had an issue with mine in South Florida.

You might try dielectric grease. That would preserve the electrical connection. There is definitely something wrong, but that might help the symptom.
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Old 08/13/2019, 12:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Issue started again... took out the whole distributor right now. So from going over the distributor I see a couple of areas of concern. First there is like metal shavings behind the connector for the distributor. Can't think of anything else that would deteriorate besides the reluctor wheel for cam signal. Then gasket/sealant that is sandwiched between the base and the reluctor housing in the distributor assembly looks dry/cracked. And lastly both caps had the metal sleeves for the screws pushed out. Mainly the sleeve that is on top that is near the throttle body.

After tightening the screws in a star pattern the top area would always be lifted more which could be the cause of the moisture seeping in. The bottom two would almost be flush to the base but the top part would have a noticeable gap. Added a oversized washer so it can catch the plastic and now the top part is almost flush to the base for the screw. Now we wait to see if it happens again. Got some parts coming from Japan to go coil on plug if this keeps on going.
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Old 08/13/2019, 10:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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There are conversion kits that will let you go to coil-on-plug? Neat! Will you have enough room under the intake manifold for the back three plugs?

Alternatively, why not just replace the distributor? Should just drop in as long as it has the right reluctor wheel. The factory ignition system was sufficient for this engine.
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Old 08/13/2019, 02:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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There are conversion kits that will let you go to coil-on-plug? Neat! Will you have enough room under the intake manifold for the back three plugs?

Alternatively, why not just replace the distributor? Should just drop in as long as it has the right reluctor wheel. The factory ignition system was sufficient for this engine.
I wish it was plug and play but theres a post in the forum of a guy who was able to do it. If you look up distributor less ignition on the search you will find it. His version is using the wasted spark system with 2g coil packs and a cam reluctor from a montero sport for signal but coil on plug should be feasible. I will have to investigate the clearance on the rear for the coil packs. The only reason I am kind of on the fence on buying the new distributor is because I need to save up for a 99 3000gt flashable ecu to make it work. Since the mivec swap is the end goal I may just buy the Jester ecu from 3sx. Still doing my research on compatible parts but in theory this may work.
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Old 08/13/2019, 02:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Oooohhhhh.... This isn't just a repair on a stock motor. Got it. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
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