I know the 335 is the crankshaft sensor... exactly what is the the 340 again? Refresh my memory!
00' GT P0340 & P0335
Throwing both codes. Will not idle cleaned both plugs inspected harness.
Anyone know what voltages each sensor should be receiving or getting? I am assuming a problem with camchaft sensor since the car will run. I am aware the camshaft sensor is build in to the distributor. Has anyone else expierenced a failure?
Thanks for any help,
Anyone know what voltages each sensor should be receiving or getting? I am assuming a problem with camchaft sensor since the car will run. I am aware the camshaft sensor is build in to the distributor. Has anyone else expierenced a failure?
Thanks for any help,
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P0340 is Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. USUALLY they go off at the same time if the camshaft sensor is f'd up.I know the 335 is the crankshaft sensor... exactly what is the the 340 again? Refresh my memory!
You need to give us more info if possible. Did you do any maintenance or changes to the car?Throwing both codes. Will not idle cleaned both plugs inspected harness.
Anyone know what voltages each sensor should be receiving or getting? I am assuming a problem with camchaft sensor since the car will run. I am aware the camshaft sensor is build in to the distributor. Has anyone else expierenced a failure?
Thanks for any help,
Well shoot bro... it would seem like you answered his question right there! Replace the distributor... cuz thats where the sensor is right? I can give you a list of wirings if you need it OP but, unles you have the right tools, it's not gonna do you any good.P0340 is Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. USUALLY they go off at the same time if the camshaft sensor is f'd up.
You need to give us more info if possible. Did you do any maintenance or changes to the car?
Maintinance wise. Changed the plugs and plug wires at 75k when I bought the car, but that was 20k miles ago. Change the oil every 3k with regular dino oil.
As far as my mechanical abilities. I am a transport refrigeration tech. Ie: diesel powered refrigeration. I know my way around a motor, I however do not know which wires do what or what the proper voltage should be. My gut feeling is the camshaft sensor is in need of replacement, but I do not want to spend 300+ dollars to replace only to have some other problem. I would like to narrow the problem down to know that need a part and then replace the problem part.
So please if you have some information that can help it would be very helpful.
Thanks again.
As far as my mechanical abilities. I am a transport refrigeration tech. Ie: diesel powered refrigeration. I know my way around a motor, I however do not know which wires do what or what the proper voltage should be. My gut feeling is the camshaft sensor is in need of replacement, but I do not want to spend 300+ dollars to replace only to have some other problem. I would like to narrow the problem down to know that need a part and then replace the problem part.
So please if you have some information that can help it would be very helpful.
Thanks again.
Yeah, you would think I answered his question and replacing the distributor would be the solution. I hope it is that simple, but you know sometimes the obvious isn't the obvious. The reason I asked for more info like maintenance and changes was because IF he already changed the dizzy he might've switched to the wrong one. The OP didn't specify what year model he has. If he is going to get another dizzy he should know that the 2000 and 2001 dizzies differ from the 2002-2005 dizzies. If he didn't/doesn't use the correct dizzy those codes will appear. I got caught with that problem a couple of years ago and PharmEcis gave me that important info.Well shoot bro... it would seem like you answered his question right there! Replace the distributor... cuz thats where the sensor is right? I can give you a list of wirings if you need it OP but, unles you have the right tools, it's not gonna do you any good.
I'd say it's time to change those plugs and plug wires again.Maintinance wise. Changed the plugs and plug wires at 75k when I bought the car, but that was 20k miles ago. Change the oil every 3k with regular dino oil.
The thread title has the year of the car in question. I listed it there so everyone would know the year model car I was dealing with. Apparently that piece of info slipped past you.
I doubt the plugs are in need of replacement. They were replaced with NGK platinum plugs. When do plug require replacement after 20k miles?
From my reseach I have found that there maybe a part difference between 2000 year models. From before 4/00 to after 4/00. This would also indicate the 00' to 01 model change,
Since I would like to find and repair the correct part instead of just swapping in a new part and hoping that solves the problem. There has to be a more intelligent way to find the problem. Versus part swapping.
Thanks for help, I guess.
I doubt the plugs are in need of replacement. They were replaced with NGK platinum plugs. When do plug require replacement after 20k miles?
From my reseach I have found that there maybe a part difference between 2000 year models. From before 4/00 to after 4/00. This would also indicate the 00' to 01 model change,
Since I would like to find and repair the correct part instead of just swapping in a new part and hoping that solves the problem. There has to be a more intelligent way to find the problem. Versus part swapping.
Thanks for help, I guess.
LOL... dizzy...:lmfao:Yeah, you would think I answered his question and replacing the distributor would be the solution. I hope it is that simple, but you know sometimes the obvious isn't the obvious. The reason I asked for more info like maintenance and changes was because IF he already changed the dizzy he might've switched to the wrong one. The OP didn't specify what year model he has. If he is going to get another dizzy he should know that the 2000 and 2001 dizzies differ from the 2002-2005 dizzies. If he didn't/doesn't use the correct dizzy those codes will appear. I got caught with that problem a couple of years ago and PharmEcis gave me that important info.
Ooooh Wait a second, when you say camshaft sensor, you mean the top dead center sensor. Well, I can tell you where the wiring is but I couldn't tell you the power requirements bud. From the connector at the distributor, the wires are at pins 5, 6, and 7... red/white, red, and black respectively. Pin 5 at the connector goes to Pin 50 of the ECM, Pin 6 goes to Pin 47 of the ECM, and Pin 7 goes to Pin 34 of the ECM. Alright Pin 7 is tied to the Crankshaft Position sensor at Pin 5. My prints say the color code shifts at a junction to brown however.
Something just came to mind... did you try opening up the distributor? Its a long shot, but maybe its so badly corroded in there a line broke or something. Basically, all I can tell you is to check the wiring from the plug on the distributor to the sensor itself to make sure you still have a good connection and go from there. After that, try verifying the cables going to the ECM... but that'll be a bitch.
Something just came to mind... did you try opening up the distributor? Its a long shot, but maybe its so badly corroded in there a line broke or something. Basically, all I can tell you is to check the wiring from the plug on the distributor to the sensor itself to make sure you still have a good connection and go from there. After that, try verifying the cables going to the ECM... but that'll be a bitch.
Thank you for the pin locations. I can test continuity with a ohm meter and test the wires without having to visually inspect them. As long as I dont show any open wires I can assume the ECM is working properly as the car runs ok, it just wont idle.
Thank you for the help. After I ohm the wires I can better judge if the cam sensor is faulty.
Thank you for the help. After I ohm the wires I can better judge if the cam sensor is faulty.
No problem bud, we're here to help. I wouldn't burn my bridge with Finesse so quickly, however, that dude has done more pioneering, (LOL no pun intended on the N5), then most of us can even hope for. Not to brown nose, but the dude knows his shit.Thank you for the pin locations. I can test continuity with a ohm meter and test the wires without having to visually inspect them. As long as I dont show any open wires I can assume the ECM is working properly as the car runs ok, it just wont idle.
Thank you for the help. After I ohm the wires I can better judge if the cam sensor is faulty.
You're right, the year slipped past me. You can leave the spark plugs and wires in longer, it's your car. Since you know the cam sensor is in the dizzy and you now know the differences between years of the dizzy swapping it may just solve your problem. SOMETIMES the easiest solution IS the solution. Since you don't want to swap and be all intelligent do you plan on taking the dizzy apart to get to the cam sensor/reluctor wheel and then take that apart as well? If so let us know how that works out. You say your gut feeling is the camshaft sensor needs replacing, well where are you going to get another cam sensor from that's not in the dizzy? You must have an abundance of time to spend on this problem since you don't want to spend the $300 on a new part. You never know, it could be your Crankshaft Position Sensor.The thread title has the year of the car in question. I listed it there so everyone would know the year model car I was dealing with. Apparently that piece of info slipped past you.
I doubt the plugs are in need of replacement. They were replaced with NGK platinum plugs. When do plug require replacement after 20k miles?
From my reseach I have found that there maybe a part difference between 2000 year models. From before 4/00 to after 4/00. This would also indicate the 00' to 01 model change,
Since I would like to find and repair the correct part instead of just swapping in a new part and hoping that solves the problem. There has to be a more intelligent way to find the problem. Versus part swapping.
Thanks for help, I guess.
Thanks. I know a few things. Not as much as I'd like. Some of those few things were taught to me by some very smart people and some I've learned from experience like the problem the OP is having now. I guess when your car isn't running right and you don't want to spend the money to fix it, you could get a little attitude at people who suggest that maybe spending some money may indeed solve the problem.No problem bud, we're here to help. I wouldn't burn my bridge with Finesse so quickly, however, that dude has done more pioneering, (LOL no pun intended on the N5), then most of us can even hope for. Not to brown nose, but the dude knows his shit.
I know this! Good ol' Pharm, for instance. I know your games! Still waiting on your autobot homie!You're right, the year slipped past me. You can leave the spark plugs and wires in longer, it's your car. Since you know the cam sensor is in the dizzy and you now know the differences between years of the dizzy swapping it may just solve your problem. SOMETIMES the easiest solution IS the solution. Since you don't want to swap and be all intelligent do you plan on taking the dizzy apart to get to the cam sensor/reluctor wheel and then take that apart as well? If so let us know how that works out. You say your gut feeling is the camshaft sensor needs replacing, well where are you going to get another cam sensor from that's not in the dizzy? You must have an abundance of time to spend on this problem since you don't want to spend the $300 on a new part. You never know, it could be your Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Thanks. I know a few things. Not as much as I'd like. Some of those few things were taught to me by some very smart people and some I've learned from experience like the problem the OP is having now. I guess when your car isn't running right and you don't want to spend the money to fix it, you could get a little attitude at people who suggest that maybe spending some money may indeed solve the problem.
Pharm is definetly one of 'em. But I have 2 other friends that have taught and shown me a lot of things. Pharm knows one of 'em. He's been to Pharm's shop and house a few times and we've hung out. Actually I brought him with me to Pharm's house on my way to meet him for the first time so he could tell me what he thought about Pharm. The rest is history. He and my other friend know cars and have kept my 3G's running, but Pharm is a Mitsu guru. The Spyder is in the right hands and if all goes according to Pharm's theory then it should be ready soon.I know this! Good ol' Pharm, for instance. I know your games! Still waiting on your autobot homie!
...Pharm's theory? That's cool man, mucho respect. I'd quite enjoy picking Pharm's brain to see what makes him tick. Not to mention this soon to be conversion of yours has everyone up in a tizzy. Summers almost over man!
Yeah he has a theory of sorts for the subframe, he hasn't had a chance to fully test it yet but he should be shortly. If what he thinks will work proves to work then it's ON. Summer is almost over, I REALLY wanted to have it done by now when that was only my car. Since I've acquired a GSX and an EVO in the last 9-10 months my urgency has subsided quite a bit. The turbo motor is really no big deal, anybody could do that for the most part. There are plenty of 6G74 swaps, shoot you're one of 'em.:lol: It's the V6 5 speed AWD that is now the focal point of my build. I've been to the point now that it's AWD or nothing for the Spyder....Pharm's theory? That's cool man, mucho respect. I'd quite enjoy picking Pharm's brain to see what makes him tick. Not to mention this soon to be conversion of yours has everyone up in a tizzy. Summers almost over man!
Why spend the money if you dont have to? A fool and his money are soon parted. I currently own 2 cars, 2 trucks and 3 motorcycles. While I enjoy driving the Eclipse it is just another car in the stable. I don't have to have it running so I have time to tinker with it and correct the problem. Your quickness to judge my lack of intelligence with the situation brought us to this point. Thank you very much for your advice.You're right, the year slipped past me. You can leave the spark plugs and wires in longer, it's your car. Since you know the cam sensor is in the dizzy and you now know the differences between years of the dizzy swapping it may just solve your problem. SOMETIMES the easiest solution IS the solution. Since you don't want to swap and be all intelligent do you plan on taking the dizzy apart to get to the cam sensor/reluctor wheel and then take that apart as well? If so let us know how that works out. You say your gut feeling is the camshaft sensor needs replacing, well where are you going to get another cam sensor from that's not in the dizzy? You must have an abundance of time to spend on this problem since you don't want to spend the $300 on a new part. You never know, it could be your Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Thanks. I know a few things. Not as much as I'd like. Some of those few things were taught to me by some very smart people and some I've learned from experience like the problem the OP is having now. I guess when your car isn't running right and you don't want to spend the money to fix it, you could get a little attitude at people who suggest that maybe spending some money may indeed solve the problem.
I am curious as to the plugs and plug wires? Why in your opinion do they require replacement so soon? Most vehicles now with platinum plugs are going 50k+ without a problem. What about the Eclipse engines makes them more prone to failure?
As far as where to get another "dizzy", theres a 00' GT at the pick and pull. Pick a 50$ "dizzy" and try it. I mostly tryng to glean some information on what voltages I should be looking for.
As far as the crankshaft sensor, a normal failure with it causes a no start no run, yes?
Again the help is greatly appreciated.
You're going to spend some money whether it be $50 for the used dizzy or the $300 on a new one. I don't believe you're going to fix that one, but I'd like you to prove me wrong. Your time would be better spent getting the $50 one and trying that then anything else but since you have all the time in the world and all these vehicles do what you want. About the plugs and wires, again leave them in there. I'm particular when it comes to certain things, that's one of them but obviously you're not. As far as the Crankshaft Position Sensor goes, the worse case scenario is the car wouldn't start. I'm here to help anytime.Why spend the money if you dont have to? A fool and his money are soon parted. I currently own 2 cars, 2 trucks and 3 motorcycles. While I enjoy driving the Eclipse it is just another car in the stable. I don't have to have it running so I have time to tinker with it and correct the problem. Your quickness to judge my lack of intelligence with the situation brought us to this point. Thank you very much for your advice.
I am curious as to the plugs and plug wires? Why in your opinion do they require replacement so soon? Most vehicles now with platinum plugs are going 50k+ without a problem. What about the Eclipse engines makes them more prone to failure?
As far as where to get another "dizzy", theres a 00' GT at the pick and pull. Pick a 50$ "dizzy" and try it. I mostly tryng to glean some information on what voltages I should be looking for.
As far as the crankshaft sensor, a normal failure with it causes a no start no run, yes?
Again the help is greatly appreciated.
Yeah, thats true man. Like I said, I'm interested to see how things turn out. But you know... you could take it one step further and make it 6G74 AWD build...Yeah he has a theory of sorts for the subframe, he hasn't had a chance to fully test it yet but he should be shortly. If what he thinks will work proves to work then it's ON. Summer is almost over, I REALLY wanted to have it done by now when that was only my car. Since I've acquired a GSX and an EVO in the last 9-10 months my urgency has subsided quite a bit. The turbo motor is really no big deal, anybody could do that for the most part. There are plenty of 6G74 swaps, shoot you're one of 'em.:lol: It's the V6 5 speed AWD that is now the focal point of my build. I've been to the point now that it's AWD or nothing for the Spyder.
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