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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can not get front bleeder screws to open to fully bleed brakes. Put in new wheel cylinders. Removed brake line to bleed but still some air in lines . Not sure what else can do besides get new Calipers to get all air out of lines?

Changing wheel hub this weekend & Tie Rod End. Think needs least 2 tires, maybe 4. Did not get alignment after first Time Rod End change last year. Probably should get alignment after Tie rod & Wheel cylinder change?


Still rides & runs pretty well for being over 20 years old.

Seems like back end needs tightening up, part replacements. Guessing much of rear suspension is factory. Would like to keep & do overhaul. Kind of scared to to overhaul/ new suspension parts because not sure if rust rot. Owned for almost 3 years. 223k miles. New timing belt kit w water pump, wheel cylinders, 2 tires and not much really, been strong car. American in my opinion.

Code for O2 sensor
Needs new exhaust flex pipe
Was wanting to cut Converter off because can smell inside car sometime. Sure factory converter so probably clogged/bad performance & county live in does not inspect for them. Anyway to remove converter &/or gut/remove material inside ? Or would this help gas milage/ performance any or hurt?


Think needs some intake/ throttle body cleaning. Not sure about cleaning MAF because cans say not to use on Mitsubishi.
Have not been wanting to fix unless broke bc seems to put pressure on other parts to break/need replacement. Also money, parts are cheap but can not do extensive labor/repairs myself or have all tools needed to do.

Any tips or tricks or cheap repairs should think about next or be thinking about. Thanks for the knowledge if have any input .
 

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Can not get front bleeder screws to open to fully bleed brakes. Put in new wheel cylinders. Removed brake line to bleed but still some air in lines . Not sure what else can do besides get new Calipers to get all air out of lines?

Changing wheel hub this weekend & Tie Rod End. Think needs least 2 tires, maybe 4. Did not get alignment after first Time Rod End change last year. Probably should get alignment after Tie rod & Wheel cylinder change?


Still rides & runs pretty well for being over 20 years old.

Seems like back end needs tightening up, part replacements. Guessing much of rear suspension is factory. Would like to keep & do overhaul. Kind of scared to to overhaul/ new suspension parts because not sure if rust rot. Owned for almost 3 years. 223k miles. New timing belt kit w water pump, wheel cylinders, 2 tires and not much really, been strong car. American in my opinion.

Code for O2 sensor
Needs new exhaust flex pipe
Was wanting to cut Converter off because can smell inside car sometime. Sure factory converter so probably clogged/bad performance & county live in does not inspect for them. Anyway to remove converter &/or gut/remove material inside ? Or would this help gas milage/ performance any or hurt?


Think needs some intake/ throttle body cleaning. Not sure about cleaning MAF because cans say not to use on Mitsubishi.
Have not been wanting to fix unless broke bc seems to put pressure on other parts to break/need replacement. Also money, parts are cheap but can not do extensive labor/repairs myself or have all tools needed to do.

Any tips or tricks or cheap repairs should think about next or be thinking about. Thanks for the knowledge if have any input .
-If the bleeders wont open, or break off, you're better off replacing the calipers.
-With any new steering or suspension components, its always ideal to get an alignment.
  • Years ago I punched out my second catalytic converter (4cyl) due to smell. It was clogged. You will need to get two spark plug anti foulers. Drill one out, and install O2 sensor. Then screw untouched anti fouler over the drilled one. Then install back in factory location. You will avoid a check engine light this way. No change in gas mileage in my case.
  • Do not clean your MAF. I have never read anything good becoming of cleaning it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
-If the bleeders wont open, or break off, you're better off replacing the calipers.
-With any new steering or suspension components, its always ideal to get an alignment.
  • Years ago I punched out my second catalytic converter (4cyl) due to smell. It was clogged. You will need to get two spark plug anti foulers. Drill one out, and install O2 sensor. Then screw untouched anti fouler over the drilled one. Then install back in factory location. You will avoid a check engine light this way. No change in gas mileage in my case.
  • Do not clean your MAF. I have never read anything good becoming of cleaning it.
"Punched out"? Lke a punch and hammer?

Seems like a pain to remove converter from exhaust manifold ? Mine is 4 cyl also.


What are antifoulers for?
Removed converter completely ?
 

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Low and Slow.
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"Punched out"? Lke a punch and hammer?

Seems like a pain to remove converter from exhaust manifold ? Mine is 4 cyl also.


What are antifoulers for?
Removed converter completely ?
My problem was with the second cat . Remove exhaust, get wooden stick and hammer, and break up the honey comb. I explained why you need the anti-foulers, to avoid check engine light. You will show increased flow since the catalyst material is no longer slowing down airflow. You can remove the converter completely, but will need to put somehting in its place. Or just punch it out, and reinstall same day.
Break bleeders off & re tap threads?
Good luck not drilling out the threads too deep and messing with the angle that the bleeder meets to seal the fluid from coming out.
 

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I usually just use map gas and heat them up get some good heat into them and crack them loose. just make sure you get a new set of bleeders so you can replace them as needed. Other wise reman calipers are cheap.
 
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