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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok well long story short I have a 2001 eclipse rs just recently finished boosting it, with an eBay fast way racer turbo kit. I used 450cc dsm injectors wired to a resister pack, 190 walboro fuel pump, the rest came with the kit. Other supporting mods include full exhaust and downpipe. Now let me be clear here, we had the car running fine after the install. After it stalled during the test run about 30 min in i brought it nack home. The first few times it would start right up, then die. After it died I barely got it started feathering the gas, but then I gave it some gas and wouldn't let it die that time. After that it idled fine, warmed up fine and ran pretty good. I babied it around town for about 45 minutes and turned it off and it started right back up. Overnight it sat and since I haven't been able to get it started again. Seems something was on its last leg and finally quit. When I go to start the car, it turns over pretty quickly and almost starts here and there. You will here a chug and the exhaust chug, the rpms will jump slightly here and there as if it's almost going to start. Here's where it gets tricky, if I go out there and start the car after it sits for a couple days, it will start right up! Then die and won't start again. It's wierd. We have already replaced the cam position sensor, spark plugs again, wires, coil packs, map sensor, starter relay. I have a crank position sensor in the mail. It actually threw a couple codes when I did have it running one was p0108 (I believe ) it was for the map sensor, and the other was p0300 random multiple misfire. I cleared those codes and reset the battery after I replaced everything In case the map error code was a hard code. I've considered an ignition switch but there are a few symptoms that come along with that, that I am not seeing. We can hear the fuel pump engage when we turn the key, we haven't checked compression yet but probably will soon just to be safe but when the car stayed running when I was able to keep it from dieing it ran really good HOWEVER we did notice a slight hesitation that would come and go at cruising speeds. This is becoming a complete nightmare and money pit. The car ran perfect with no issues or codes before the turbo install. Is there something that we overlooked? I checked the wires near the alternater to see if the crank position sensor wiring had rubbed and it had not. I should mention that while I had the car out aND running and it was running fine it did stall twice, I was able to get it back started however to get it home. Seems like something is causing the car to not want to start and to want to stall. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. The resister packs were wired the right way not just tapped or cheaped out. We have considered the possibility of a vaccum leak but all the vaccum lines appear to be good. No other codes have shown up even after multiple failed attempts at getting the engine started.
 

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Your first issue is that garbage ebay kit. And idk why you're not using wrx injectors. They don't need resistor packs. Check your basics. Fuel? Spark? Intake? I would take this as a sign and ditch that "kit" while you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for your helpful advice. I agree completely and understand the average quality that comes along with an eBay turbo kit, but the kit will serve it's purpose and will be just fine. I didn't build the internals, i didnt plan on reaching 500hp and I definitely didn't want to dump 3x the amount of its bluebook value into it for low boost and the eBay kit will do just fine for 10-15 psi. I'm only boosting it because its something I've wanted to do for a little while, and Im getting bored with cars, I've owned multiple wrxs/stis/evos/dsms/350zs/g35/srts/ pretty much name it I've probably owned one or more, im actually rebuilding my sti as we speak thanks to manley h beam rods inability to handle 30 psi at 400 whp. I just want something different that you don't see every day, my first car was a 3g and i love them and a boosted 3g around where I live would be rare. With that being said I did at least get the "better" fast way racer kit with the .57 18g turbo, and replaced alot of the "universal" junk with parts we ordered that better fit our needs. We've done all the basic checks of fuel, spark and intake. I had the dsm injectors in the garage and when I was researching boosted 3gs the threads I read, the people used dsm injectors and resister packs. If I would have known that wrx injectors would have worked without resister packs I would have definitely went that path. Too late now. But I do have wrx injectors in the garage as well from one of my old subarus that I will actually probably consider swapping in to rule out bad resister pack wiring.
 

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Valor is eternal....
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All I see is that it ran perfectly when stock and completely fell on it's face when you messed with it. All that says is that a innumerable number of things could have gone wrong throughout installation and into first fire and running.

With no baseline ECU maps, no sort of tuning or O2 performance logs, no sort of mixture sampling or even a freeze-frame of when the engine died - this could be so many things it hurts. This is outside of anything physical like incorrectly connected or shorted wiring.

All I have to say is to go back through the basics of a no-start: Compression, ignition, Fuel, Timing and Control - and see where it's gone wrong - an pray it's not something you melted or blew up by running it lean in the first place.
 

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Although I have a V6 I'm dealing with the same problem. No codes or anything to give me an idea of where to look. If it's raining or damp out my car doesn't start. It's mind boggling... Go out the next day and it starts without hesitation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
It definitely never ran lean. If anything rich. It's getting spark and fuel. And I know i was planning to take it to lmt for the tune two days after it failed to start. I'm wondering if maybe it's the computer. It got the p0107 code today which from my research noone has solved. Might be parting this out or selling it and cutting my losses. I mean I guess I really have no choice but to have it towed to a shop and see if they can find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And the installation of a turbo kit is very straght forward. We've done more complex projects then this. The only part that could have gone wrong would be the resister pack install and wiring but it's getting fuel, and it ran great when it started. The issue is only with getting it started. Not the overall performance of the car. The problem is it doesn't want to start. And when it was running it ran great. It did stall twice over a long period of time which I beleive has to do with the same issue that keeps it from wanting to start. Maybe it's the crank position sensor. The car did sit for around a year and a half through this project. It was on the back burner for a while. Anyone aware of something that goes bad while sitting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's what we were thinking so we tried starting it with the gas pedal down to cut fuel back and try to DE flood the car and it did almost start a couple times. We took one of the spark plugs out and it was soaked, tomorrow I'm thinking of taking all the plugs out drying them and letting the car sit for a couple days and re installing them and try starting it again.
 

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You should think about how the hell you're tuning this thing, you can't just slap in huge injectors and a big pump without re-mapping the computer to handle it properly. You're going to wash fuel right into the oil and end up with either glazed cylinders with no compression or a spun bearing from fuel dilution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As I mentioned before in a previous post on this thread, I had an appointment to drop my car off at lmt or late modEl throttle 2 days after the car decided it didn't want to start anymore. I only took the car out for a test run to make sure we didn't run into problems on the dyno. It's being reflashed with ecu flash software using evoscan to datalog. .. when I get this starting issue resolved.
 

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Also once it gets to the tuner make sure the oil is changed before they start hammering it on the dyno, diluted oil will thin out bad when heated and put under pressure especially. You'll risk scuffing bearings or damaging the ludicrously low quality eBay turbo. No sense making it even more likely to fail and send shrapnel into the engine than it already is.
 

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Everything everyone is saying should be taken into account. Throwing 450's into a car that thinks their 245's probably won't won't correctly :noplease:

Another thing could be your front O2. My car would start and be fine in open loop, but once it went to closed loop would die. Ie, starts fine for the first few seconds, but when I start driving it would die. It was leaning out. A couple of the O2 wires were touching each other (don't trust your friends that say they took wiring in school!)

Do you have a wideband at all? I didn't see that mentioned. Its going to be damn hard to figure out a lot of stuff without the proper gauges and tools.

Do you have no idea how to use a computer? Dialing in the injectors is one of the easiest tasks to complete. At least even easy enough to get it started. You only have to ballpark it to get it to start, then drive and log to dial. Also, are you using the stock fpr? Stock fpr + bigger pump could lead into high fuel pressures no matter what you do. Did you drill out the fuel return also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Aftermarket fpr. And yes i have the gauhe's including an aem wideband. Just because I installed an eBay turbo doesn't make me a noob. I just chose to not dump 5k into a 2000$ car. I've purchased and installed gt30-35-4088 turbo kits garrets and turbonetics etc on cars that are worthy of that sort of investment but for a low value car that is only going to run low boost I didn't feel the need. Anyways you guys are either not reading my problem report or forgetting that this car started, ran and drove perect after the install. It wasnt until about 35 minutes into the test drive around town of me gassing it up, and babying the car around town to ensure I wouldn't run into issues on the dyno that it decides to stall. I then got it back started and home where it will start after sitting but die right away and not want to start back up. It's getting spark and fuel and it's not flooding it to create this issue. You guys are wrong. I just installed 850 cc injectors and a 300lph fuel pump on a wrx and successfully with no issues other then running rich and throwing flames got it to the dyno where I paid to have the oil freshly changed with a fresh change of plugs for the tune. I beleive personally at this point after trial and error that it is the idle air control valve. But I will try the o2 sensor to see. I would like to also note that the people on this forum are rude, disrespectfull and act like their gods and know every thing while the new posters are belittled and treated like noobs that don't know shit. You guys all seen ebay kit and assumed I was some kid who knew nothing who was trying to cheaply boost my first not very fast car. That's the reason why i joined almost 10 years ago and have 2 threads and a handful of posts. The one time i decided to come on here and ask for help when I run out of ideas people are belittling me and throwing me under the bus asking me if I even know how to use a computer and acting as if I have no plans to tune it and Im just throwing turbos and injectors at this thing hoping it will be done even though I clearly stated that before the car started this issue the plan was to bring it to the dyno, and attacking the turbo kit I bought from eBay like I'm throwing it on an sti or something no, this is a $2000 14 year old car with stock internals that will only be ableaving to safely handle small boost. Srry I'm not throwing a gt35r kit on it for 10-15 psi. I do appreciate every one of your opinions and all of your comments in trying to help me resolve this issue however and wish more people could have taken the time out of there time to help someone other then themselves and I applaud you guys for doing so even though there were some premature assumptions. I wish this community wasn't so big headed sometimes it's like going to the gym where everyones testoserone levels are through the roof trying to one up everyone and claim dominance this is a 3g forum and it's the biggest one and probably the only one. People should change the mood around here. Anyways like I said I think it might be the idle air control valve so that's my next trial and error attempt I'll post an update hopefully this will be a solved thread since most the other car won't start threads aren't solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Aftermarket fpr. And yes i have the gauhe's including an aem wideband. Just because I installed an eBay turbo doesn't make me a noob. I just chose to not dump 5k into a 2000$ car. I've purchased and installed gt30-35-4088 turbo kits garrets and turbonetics etc on cars that are worthy of that sort of investment but for a low value car that is only going to run low boost I didn't feel the need. Anyways you guys are either not reading my problem report or forgetting that this car started, ran and drove perect after the install. It wasnt until about 35 minutes into the test drive around town of me gassing it up, and babying the car around town to ensure I wouldn't run into issues on the dyno that it decides to stall. I then got it back started and home where it will start after sitting but die right away and not want to start back up. It's getting spark and fuel and it's not flooding it to create this issue. You guys are wrong. I just installed 850 cc injectors and a 300lph fuel pump on a wrx and successfully with no issues other then running rich and throwing flames got it to the dyno where I paid to have the oil freshly changed with a fresh change of plugs for the tune. I beleive personally at this point after trial and error that it is the idle air control valve. But I will try the o2 sensor to see. I would like to also note that the people on this forum are rude, disrespectfull and act like their gods and know every thing while the new posters are belittled and treated like noobs that don't know shit. You guys all seen ebay kit and assumed I was some kid who knew nothing who was trying to cheaply boost my first not very fast car. That's the reason why i joined almost 10 years ago and have 2 threads and a handful of posts. The one time i decided to come on here and ask for help when I run out of ideas people are belittling me and throwing me under the bus asking me if I even know how to use a computer and acting as if I have no plans to tune it and Im just throwing turbos and injectors at this thing hoping it will be done even though I clearly stated that before the car started this issue the plan was to bring it to the dyno, and attacking the turbo kit I bought from eBay like I'm throwing it on an sti or something no, this is a $2000 14 year old car with stock internals that will only be ableaving to safely handle small boost. Srry I'm not throwing a gt35r kit on it for 10-15 psi. I do appreciate every one of your opinions and all of your comments in trying to help me resolve this issue however and wish more people could have taken the time out of there time to help someone other then themselves and I applaud you guys for doing so even though there were some premature assumptions. I wish this community wasn't so big headed sometimes it's like going to the gym where everyones testoserone levels are through the roof trying to one up everyone and claim dominance this is a 3g forum and it's the biggest one and probably the only one. People should change the mood around here. Anyways like I said I think it might be the idle air control valve so that's my next trial and error attempt I'll post an update hopefully this will be a solved thread since most the other car won't start threads aren't solved.
 
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